I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.

The adjustment thingie is likely inside part 9 of this diagram.
http://www.chpower.com/free_download...als/VT6314.pdf

I am quite handy and would like to experiment, though I need some hints
on how to go about it. Any clues?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...n.0& MID=9876

Do you want to adjust it at the compressor for the compressor's sake or just
so your air lines don't have 140 PSI? There are cheap regulators you can
get which go in-line which could solve the second desire.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-drill.com

V8013

My eBay: http://tinyurl.com/3n8gj

On 7 Feb 2005 18:51:39 -0800, wrote:

I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.

The adjustment thingie is likely inside part 9 of this diagram.
http://www.chpower.com/free_download...als/VT6314.pdf

I am quite handy and would like to experiment, though I need some hints
on how to go about it. Any clues?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...n.0& MID=9876

Don't adjust the compressor tank pressure. You want to keep that high
so your tank stores as much air as possible. Get an additional
pressure regulator and water filter assembly to regulate the pressure
that goes to your hose. Add quick connect connector to the output of
the regulator while you're at it. You can also add a lubricator if
you want but then you will contaminate your hose if you want to use it
for spraying (your compressor will only handle detail or lightweight
sprayers like Critter). I use separate lubricator hose setups for air
tools.

You use this regulator to control the pressure feeding the tool but
you still have max capacity in your tank.

You can get these assemblies at any BORG outlet.

TWS

wrote in message
ups.com...
I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.



Yes there may be an adjustment in the pressure switch. If you take the cover
off of it there will be a nut or screw with a spring under it, backing off
the screw will lower the pressure. That said, the switch adjustment is
probably welded so you can not adjust it, my Porter Cable compressor is! If
you need to get the discharge pressure lower buy a air regulator.
Greg

wrote in message
ups.com...
I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.


You realize that if you do this the compressor will probably run almost
always with most any use at all.

On 7 Feb 2005 18:51:39 -0800, the inscrutable
spake:

I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.

The adjustment thingie is likely inside part 9 of this diagram.
http://www.chpower.com/free_download...als/VT6314.pdf

That's the pressure limit switch. Air pressure opens and closes the
switch to the motor depending upon high and low pressures. Most decent
compressors also have a built-in unloader which permits the motor to
start the compressor with no pressure in the compressor head.

There are usually 2 screw controls in a pressure switch, one for high
cutoff, the other for low pressure re-engage.


I am quite handy and would like to experiment, though I need some hints
on how to go about it. Any clues?

Generally, the pressure switches are adjusted downward by rotating the
screw counterclockwise. If it were mine, I'd unplug it, pop the
plastic cover off, loosen the locknut, adjust the HI screw (they're
usually marked) 1/4 turn counterclockwise, retighten the locknut.

Then I'd run air pressure in the tank down to about 80 psi, plug it
back in, turn it on, and look at both pressures, high and low, for the
results. I'd then proceed from there, knowing the correct direction to
adjust.

Good luck!

P.S: Play with this at your own risk. If you're not comfy doing it,
take the compressor down to most any auto or compressor mechanic and
give him a few bucks to adjust it for you.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====

On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 03:01:11 GMT, the inscrutable TWS
spake:

On 7 Feb 2005 18:51:39 -0800, wrote:

I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.

Don't adjust the compressor tank pressure. You want to keep that high
so your tank stores as much air as possible. Get an additional

I'll give you 10:1 that the compressor lasts a lot longer if it's
limited to 90 psi.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08

I'll give you 10:1 that the compressor lasts a lot longer if it's
limited to 90 psi.

I suspect that it will run more often at 90 psi and posibly not shut off
during use than at 140.






--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I'll give you 10:1 that the compressor lasts a lot longer if it's
limited to 90 psi.


Doubt it Larry. Most failures besides those resultant from not watching the
oil level, are tank failures resultant from moisture in the tank. Increased
cycles would increase water accumulation, and likely accelerate failure.
Besides that, a compressor designed for 140psi at a given duty cycle will
(in my best guess) not realize a life span increase in the pump head over
that same model running at 90psi, so as to be significant.

--

-Mike-

Clamp an amp meter on your compressor and be surprised. 90 is about where it is
working hardest.

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Clamp an amp meter on your compressor and be surprised. 90 is about where
it is
working hardest.

I'm betting that for a moment that the motor draws more amps at start up.

I'm betting that for a moment that the motor draws more amps at start up.

Certainly true. You will see locked rotor current when it starts. Then it
settles down to about 60-70% of FLA while the air is starting to come up. That
increases to FLA at about 80-100PSI and then drops back down as the pressure
comes up to the 140-150 shutoff.
It is the same effect that you get when you hold you hand over the end of a
vacuum cleaner hose. The motor will run faster and current drops.

On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 12:14:36 -0500, the inscrutable "Mike Marlow"
spake:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

I'll give you 10:1 that the compressor lasts a lot longer if it's
limited to 90 psi.


Doubt it Larry. Most failures besides those resultant from not watching the
oil level, are tank failures resultant from moisture in the tank. Increased
cycles would increase water accumulation, and likely accelerate failure.
Besides that, a compressor designed for 140psi at a given duty cycle will
(in my best guess) not realize a life span increase in the pump head over
that same model running at 90psi, so as to be significant.

Look at any report on compressor life and you'll see stats that show:
the higher the pressure, the quicker the failure.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====

Larry, I'll take that action!

A compressor set to shut of at 90psi will run more than 10 times more often.
The OP needs a regulator to adjust output pressure.

I set my compressors to shut off at 180psi and re-start at 100psi. Its been
operational for 15 years.

To the OP: To adjust the compressor start and stop pressures, there is a
pressure controller (usually a square or rectangle box) near the tank. Its
easily identified given it will have both an air line or two and electrical
connection.

Inside it will have two screws, one for start pressure and one for stop
pressure. Adjust one at a time, drain and gauge the result of the
adjustment. All safety warnings to apply.

Dave

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 03:01:11 GMT, the inscrutable TWS
spake:

On 7 Feb 2005 18:51:39 -0800, wrote:

I started a little woodworking business and bought a stationary air
compressor. Its a Husky sold at Home Depot, I think made by CH. When I
start it the pressure goes to 140 psi before it shuts off, I want to
reduce this cut off to around 90. It comes with no adjustment knob but
Home Depot people said it can be preset by adjusting something inside,
of course HD people don't know what that something is. I actually like
the fact that it has no knob, this way my employees won't fiddle around
with it.

Don't adjust the compressor tank pressure. You want to keep that high
so your tank stores as much air as possible. Get an additional

I'll give you 10:1 that the compressor lasts a lot longer if it's
limited to 90 psi.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====




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"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08

I'll give you 10:1 that the compressor lasts a lot longer if it's
limited to 90 psi.

I suspect that it will run more often at 90 psi and posibly not shut off
during use than at 140.



I would not bet on it!
We have a Porter Cable pancake at work, it fills from zero to 100 PSI in
very little time, that last 20 PSI to 140 takes easily three times as long.
The poor thing really struggles to get to the last 20 PSI.
We wanted to adjust it down to 100-120 PSI but PC welded the adjustment nut
so it is locked at that setting. We use it for pressure testing gas piping
so we really don't care about reserve capacity of the unit. Plug it in, run
it until the test is at the right pressure and shut it off again.
Greg

On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 15:33:56 -0800, the inscrutable "TeamCasa"
spake:

Larry, I'll take that action!

A compressor set to shut of at 90psi will run more than 10 times more often.

That's an overstatement, but it all depends on his usage. If he's
running a pair of brad nailers, probably not. If he's running
a trio of roofing nailers or blow guns, prolly so.


The OP needs a regulator to adjust output pressure.

I'm guessing that the compressor came with one and that he merely
wants less overall pressure. Nearly all 1/2+ HP compressors come
with regulators.


I set my compressors to shut off at 180psi and re-start at 100psi. Its been
operational for 15 years.

You probably spent two grand on it, too, didn't you? It's built
to handle it for the long haul. Cheaper compressors aren't.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

That's an overstatement, but it all depends on his usage. If he's
running a pair of brad nailers, probably not. If he's running
a trio of roofing nailers or blow guns, prolly so.


The OP needs a regulator to adjust output pressure.

I'm guessing that the compressor came with one and that he merely
wants less overall pressure. Nearly all 1/2+ HP compressors come
with regulators.


I set my compressors to shut off at 180psi and re-start at 100psi. Its
been
operational for 15 years.

You probably spent two grand on it, too, didn't you? It's built
to handle it for the long haul. Cheaper compressors aren't.


Dambit, perspective is everything, ain't it? Larry thinks small, maybe
cheap compressor, I think (and it sounds like TeamCasa as well) behemoth,
not so cheap. We think duty cycles that are near continuous, Larry thinks
more occasional. That's gonna make this discussion a draw. No winners
folks, the money's going back in the pot and will be applied to the winner
of the next major irrelevant discussion.
--

-Mike-

Larry Jaques writes:

The OP needs a regulator to adjust output pressure.

I'm guessing that the compressor came with one and that he merely
wants less overall pressure. Nearly all 1/2+ HP compressors come
with regulators.

The Husky true 3HP compressor sold at HD doesn't have a regulator. It
just has an opening on the side to screw in a 1/2" NPT pipe.

Brian Elfert

Dave Said:
I set my compressors to shut off at 180psi and re-start at 100psi. Its
been
operational for 15 years.

Larry Said:
You probably spent two grand on it, too, didn't you? It's built
to handle it for the long haul. Cheaper compressors aren't.

Mike Said:
Dambit, perspective is everything, ain't it? Larry thinks small, maybe
cheap compressor, I think (and it sounds like TeamCasa as well) behemoth,
not so cheap. We think duty cycles that are near continuous, Larry thinks
more occasional. That's gonna make this discussion a draw. No winners
folks, the money's going back in the pot and will be applied to the winner
of the next major irrelevant discussion.

I do believe that anything worth doing is worth doing right. 90 - 100% duty
cycle is a must with compressors (and welders). I did not spend 2 grand but
I did spend a touch over $600 in 1989. It was a used IR 5hp on a 30gal tank.

Dave




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"TeamCasa" wrote in message
...

I do believe that anything worth doing is worth doing right. 90 - 100%
duty
cycle is a must with compressors (and welders). I did not spend 2 grand
but
I did spend a touch over $600 in 1989. It was a used IR 5hp on a 30gal
tank.


I'm generally in the bigger is better camp with these kinds of things
myself. But that's because I am always picking up something new and I know
I'll need more than just the minimum to do the job. I didn't spend 2 grand
either but my compressor lists for near that and is normally around $1400
most places. Long story behind it, but I ended up getting it new for just
over $600. It's a 7HP with a 60 gal tank.
--

-Mike-

"Brian Elfert" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques writes:

The OP needs a regulator to adjust output pressure.

I'm guessing that the compressor came with one and that he merely
wants less overall pressure. Nearly all 1/2+ HP compressors come
with regulators.

The Husky true 3HP compressor sold at HD doesn't have a regulator. It
just has an opening on the side to screw in a 1/2" NPT pipe.


That's not uncommon. It's just as easy to find either configuration - with
or without regulators. It's a matter of what the retailer elects in their
configuration. The compressor manufacturers typically build without the
regulator but agree to install them during manufacture if they are
manufacturing private label stuff.
--

-Mike-

On 09 Feb 2005 15:18:59 GMT, the inscrutable Brian Elfert
spake:

Larry Jaques writes:

The OP needs a regulator to adjust output pressure.

I'm guessing that the compressor came with one and that he merely
wants less overall pressure. Nearly all 1/2+ HP compressors come
with regulators.

The Husky true 3HP compressor sold at HD doesn't have a regulator. It
just has an opening on the side to screw in a 1/2" NPT pipe.

Amazing! Husky is apparently a real cheapskate.


-
They who know the truth are not equal to those who love it. -Confucius
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Programming Services

On 2005-02-10, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:

The Husky true 3HP compressor sold at HD doesn't have a regulator. It
just has an opening on the side to screw in a 1/2" NPT pipe.

Amazing! Husky is apparently a real cheapskate.

My Ingersol-Rand compressor didn't come with one either. That's a $2500
machine. Why regulate when you know they're going to run it through a
dryer anyway? The regulator will go down-stream somewhere, probably at
the point where you run the air into the distribution system. And there'll
be another regulator down by the tool.

My compressor is down right now; the automatic drain valve sticks in the
open position. Bah!

--
I can find no modern furniture that is as well designed and emotionally
satisfying as that made by Gustav Stickley in the early years of the last
century.

"Ed Clarke" wrote in message
...


My compressor is down right now; the automatic drain valve sticks in the
open position. Bah!


Which automatic drain valve did you use Ed? While we're at it - what will
you use if you have to replace it rather than repair it?

--

-Mike-

On 10 Feb 2005 10:46:22 GMT, the inscrutable Ed Clarke
spake:

On 2005-02-10, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:

The Husky true 3HP compressor sold at HD doesn't have a regulator. It
just has an opening on the side to screw in a 1/2" NPT pipe.

Amazing! Husky is apparently a real cheapskate.

My Ingersol-Rand compressor didn't come with one either. That's a $2500
machine. Why regulate when you know they're going to run it through a
dryer anyway? The regulator will go down-stream somewhere, probably at
the point where you run the air into the distribution system. And there'll
be another regulator down by the tool.

I can see why larger compressors, which would suit a production shop
and beg for distribution, might have no regulators, but I can't see
why smaller ones wouldn't come with them unless reeeeeeeally cheap.


My compressor is down right now; the automatic drain valve sticks in the
open position. Bah!

Like, bummer, dude.


--
STOP LIVING LIKE VEAL
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Veal-free Websites

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
I can see why larger compressors, which would suit a production shop
and beg for distribution, might have no regulators, but I can't see
why smaller ones wouldn't come with them unless reeeeeeeally cheap.

You got it. Save a buck to be more competitive. I'm not sure where you
draw the line, but my PC pancake has a regulator and I never run more than
one tool. If I had distribution, I'd rather have the regulation closer to
the tool. this is common practice to assure adequate air at the point of
use.
Ed

On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 20:04:35 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

You got it. Save a buck to be more competitive. I'm not sure where you
draw the line, but my PC pancake has a regulator and I never run more than
one tool. If I had distribution, I'd rather have the regulation closer to
the tool. this is common practice to assure adequate air at the point of
use.
Ed

FWIW, I picked up a $20 inline regulator at Coastal, added quick
connects, and plug it in right at the tool. I leave the compressor @
105-110 PSI, and adjust at the tool.

It's really a handy setup and well worth the $20.

Barry

On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 02:30:04 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 20:04:35 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

You got it. Save a buck to be more competitive. I'm not sure where you
draw the line, but my PC pancake has a regulator and I never run more than
one tool. If I had distribution, I'd rather have the regulation closer to
the tool. this is common practice to assure adequate air at the point of
use.
Ed

FWIW, I picked up a $20 inline regulator at Coastal, added quick
connects, and plug it in right at the tool. I leave the compressor @
105-110 PSI, and adjust at the tool.

It's really a handy setup and well worth the $20.

Barry



I sometimes run a 15g finish nailer and a 18g brad nailer for the same
assembly. I regulate at the compressor to what the 15 wants, then ad a
T and regulate one leg with an inline regulator to what the 18 wants.
easy and cheap to set up, works great.

On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 11:05:50 -0700, s wrote:


I sometimes run a 15g finish nailer and a 18g brad nailer for the same
assembly. I regulate at the compressor to what the 15 wants, then ad a
T and regulate one leg with an inline regulator to what the 18 wants.
easy and cheap to set up, works great.

I use it on everything, as I'm too lazy to walk back to the
compressor. G If I'm out of the shop, there's a good chance that
the compressor may not even be on the same floor. Usually it's in a
basement or garage, and I'm too floors up!

Barry