I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

I have the same project planned.
Have any Pics of your test cabinet?

"Mark Howell" wrote:
I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

"Mark Howell" wrote in message
news:bWTMd.6208$ya6.5472@trndny01...
I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

I usually cut the the front 1/16 to 3/32 undersize, then slip a piece of
countertop laminate under it. Gives a nice even gap all the way around
(assuming I haven't screwed it up left/right-wise). To hold it in place, I
use a deep-throated clamp from above. To give a little wiggle room, the
holes I drill through the drawer box front are slightly oversize. Don't use
drywall screws to attach, the bell-shaped head negates the wiggle room from
the previous step. Comes out perfect every time.

Joe C.

wrote in message
...
I have the same project planned.
Have any Pics of your test cabinet?

I posted some in ABPW

"Mark Howell" wrote:
I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

"Joe C." wrote in message
. ..
"Mark Howell" wrote in message
news:bWTMd.6208$ya6.5472@trndny01...
I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

I usually cut the the front 1/16 to 3/32 undersize, then slip a piece of
countertop laminate under it. Gives a nice even gap all the way around
(assuming I haven't screwed it up left/right-wise). To hold it in place,
I
use a deep-throated clamp from above.

I forgot to mention the top on the cabinet.

To give a little wiggle room, the
holes I drill through the drawer box front are slightly oversize. Don't
use
drywall screws to attach, the bell-shaped head negates the wiggle room
from
the previous step. Comes out perfect every time.

That's a good idea, thanks

Joe C.

Nice job, now I'll have to go and post some.
I also tried Fuming, 200 year old pine.
I had to match the machined parts to the old slightly sanded sides.
It does a nice job

"Mark Howell" wrote:

wrote in message
...
I have the same project planned.
Have any Pics of your test cabinet?

I posted some in ABPW

"Mark Howell" wrote:
I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

"Tim" wrote in message
...
Nice job, now I'll have to go and post some.
Please do!

I also tried Fuming, 200 year old pine.

I have to fume all the oak, It's easy and fun.
Of course, I'll ruin it if I don't learn how to
use this spray gun real fast
That's funny, I thought pine doesn't darken
when its fumed. Maybe cause its so old?

I had to match the machined parts to the old slightly sanded sides.
It does a nice job

Mark Howell wrote:
I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?

Slide your drawer box in place and use two, three or four
small squares of double face tape to hold the false front on
long enough to slide it back out and run some screws from
behind.

Also, you can go to the McFeeley's link below.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.1.9.6

Basically it's a low profile round(ish) head screw with a
wide flange (like a washer). Drill the hole in your drawer
box slightly over size at predetermined locations. Drill
mating holes on the back side of your false front. Screw
the two together and adjust as needed.

Now, I know you didn't ask but you'll need to mount some
knobs. Don't drill for knobs until you've aligned all the
fronts. Then when you do drill for knobs drill the hole to
the exact size (assuming you're using machine screws from
the in side out) as the screw. This screw will help to hold
the tolerances (gaps) you've established in the previous
step.

Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer?

Actually, I'd be looking at 1/8"(ish) each edge if the
cabinets are made in the winter and 1/16"(ish) each edge if
made in the summer. Remember, winter projects grow (blow
up) in the summer. Also, if you are building from solid
stock, a slight rounding over of edges tends to hide little
things like non-aligned surfaces and gaps too wide but I
wouldn't round over to the point of using a round over bit
in the router. Delicate is always better than heavy handed.

(yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.

Well then this will work out real good. Take all your parts
and pieces and get them prep'd to a stage. All you fronts
can be pre-cut to a wee bit over size and set aside. Take
all of your cabinet parts and start putting together the
boxes. By the time you get to the end of that it'll be
summer and you can check your test cabinet for the
clearances. Once you know that, you can cut those to a size
that will work for summer (narrow gaps) and not look too
awful for winter (wider gaps).

One last little tiplet, make your drawer boxes 1/16"
narrower than what you think/what is recommended by the
slide maker. When you go to fit them you can shim the
slides (inside the cabinet) to where you get a perfect fit.
Reason for this is there's always an accumulated error
somewhere in cabinet building and it usually shows up with
the drawers. Believe this, it's easier to shim out some
drawers slides than it is to sand down the boxes to fit a
"now too narrow" opening.

UA100

It did take two day's in my sealed off spray booth.
Used 27% solution from a printing house.
It did turn a dark brown,
And yes it was fun, it felt like playing with a science project.

"Mark Howell" wrote:

"Tim" wrote in message
...
Nice job, now I'll have to go and post some.
Please do!

I also tried Fuming, 200 year old pine.

I have to fume all the oak, It's easy and fun.
Of course, I'll ruin it if I don't learn how to
use this spray gun real fast
That's funny, I thought pine doesn't darken
when its fumed. Maybe cause its so old?

I had to match the machined parts to the old slightly sanded sides.
It does a nice job

"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...

One last little tiplet, make your drawer boxes 1/16"
narrower than what you think/what is recommended by the
slide maker. When you go to fit them you can shim the
slides (inside the cabinet) to where you get a perfect fit.
Reason for this is there's always an accumulated error
somewhere in cabinet building and it usually shows up with
the drawers. Believe this, it's easier to shim out some
drawers slides than it is to sand down the boxes to fit a
"now too narrow" opening.

I learned that the hard way. I still have drawers in my tool room that I
haven't opened in 2 years for that very reason. BTW, those drawers are
labeled "important stuff you will probably never need".
SH