So for Christmas I was the lucky recipient of the Grizzly G0555
Bandsaw. I've never used a bandsaw before but I noticed that when
making cuts, resawing a 2x4 for example, the blade leaves a series of
ridges, wondering if this was normal or whether I have something setup
incorrectly. I'm just using the blade that came with it.

First issue: blades included with mass market BS always SUCK. Pick up
an Olson, Timberwolf, or better yet, Woodslicer blade. Make sure to get
the proper blade for the job. There's lots of info at
www.suffolkmachinery.com/.

Second: the results won't ever be as smooth as what comes off a TS with
a quality blade.

David

damian penney wrote:
So for Christmas I was the lucky recipient of the Grizzly G0555
Bandsaw. I've never used a bandsaw before but I noticed that when
making cuts, resawing a 2x4 for example, the blade leaves a series of
ridges, wondering if this was normal or whether I have something setup
incorrectly. I'm just using the blade that came with it.

Okay fair enough, on my table saw I have a WoodWorker II blade so I'm
used to getting glassy cuts. Also when cutting do you expect it to cut
with a 'throb' ?

"damian penney" wrote in message
oups.com...
Okay fair enough, on my table saw I have a WoodWorker II blade so I'm
used to getting glassy cuts. Also when cutting do you expect it to cut
with a 'throb' ?


I've noticed a throb when using a finely tuned saw :-) But that's probably
not what you mean.

The throb is likely the blade splice weld as it passes the workpiece or
blade guides. Sounds like a lesser quality band.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com

In article .com,
says...
Okay fair enough, on my table saw I have a WoodWorker II blade so I'm
used to getting glassy cuts.

That'll spoil ya'.

Also when cutting do you expect it to cut with a 'throb' ?

No, not really. In my case I heard something like that and got the
ridges in the cuts before I learned to adjust my fence for blade drift.

Check out the November/December 2004 "Fine Woodworking" for an article
called "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing". Lots of useful info there.

--
Charles Jones )
Loveland, Colorado
AIM: LovelandCharles
ICQ: 29610755
MSN:

Blade drift eh.... yeah that could be it; I'll dig out my copy of FWW
and read that article again.

"damian penney" wrote in message
ups.com...
Blade drift eh.... yeah that could be it; I'll dig out my copy of FWW
and read that article again.


The blade that came with my G0555 had a LOT of "lead", or drift. Right now I
have the riser kit and a Griz 3/4" 3TPI blade that cuts straight to the
fence w/o any fence adjustment.

--
Nahmie
Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot.

"damian penney" wrote in news:1104339504.914180.160990
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

So for Christmas I was the lucky recipient of the Grizzly G0555
Bandsaw. I've never used a bandsaw before but I noticed that when
making cuts, resawing a 2x4 for example, the blade leaves a series of
ridges, wondering if this was normal or whether I have something setup
incorrectly. I'm just using the blade that came with it.


Pretty much. A better blade will give a smoother cut. I mostly use
Timberwolf blades (Suffolk Machinery), but the Woodslicer blades from
Highland Hardware are said (in magazine reviews) to produce a smoother cut.

I've not really noticed the "thrumming" that you mention in another post.
I've had an occasional "tic-tic" sound from my saw, that was due to either
a bad weld in the blade or a (user-induced) kink in the blade.

On the G0555, be careful not to set the side bearings too close to the
teeth -- lots of us G0555 users have ruined a blade that way.

Cheers,
Nate

I've heard the 3/4" blades were really not intended to work with 14" saws
but I have the same situation you do. Using the riser and the 3/4" blade, I
can resaw to a gnats ass with no drift.

Don

"Norman D. Crow" wrote in message
...




"damian penney" wrote in message
ups.com...
Blade drift eh.... yeah that could be it; I'll dig out my copy of FWW
and read that article again.


The blade that came with my G0555 had a LOT of "lead", or drift. Right now
I
have the riser kit and a Griz 3/4" 3TPI blade that cuts straight to the
fence w/o any fence adjustment.

--
Nahmie
Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot.

Those ridges, if they're not too extreme, are normal. A bandsaw
doesn't cut as smooth and clean as a table saw. That 90-inch long
skinny strip of steel that forms the blade is nowhere near as rigid as
the 10 inch disc of a TS blade. And at $15-20 for a blade with 300 or
more teeth, you don't get the same precision as a $80-100 TS blade
with 40 teeth.

That said, some blades are better than others and the one that came
with the saw is probably a cheapie. I like the (good and reasonably
priced) Olson All-Pro blades for everyday use, and the (very good but
expensive) Highland Hardware Woodslicer for critical resawing. Lots
of folks here swear by Timberwolf blades but I find them overpriced
and unimpressive. As always, YMMV. Fine Woodworking reviewed about a
dozen different BS blades not too long ago (a year?); you might want
to see if you can find a copy of that issue at the local library.


On 29 Dec 2004 08:58:24 -0800, "damian penney"
wrote:

So for Christmas I was the lucky recipient of the Grizzly G0555
Bandsaw. I've never used a bandsaw before but I noticed that when
making cuts, resawing a 2x4 for example, the blade leaves a series of
ridges, wondering if this was normal or whether I have something setup
incorrectly. I'm just using the blade that came with it.

-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

Sounds like a not-so-perfect weld. You'll be pleasantly surprised how
much better the BS performs with a quality blade. You can try carefully
cleaning up the weld if it's thick, but if it's crooked you'll need to
replace it.

David

damian penney wrote:

snip

Also when cutting do you expect it to cut
with a 'throb' ?

On 29 Dec 2004 08:58:24 -0800, "damian penney"
wrote:

So for Christmas I was the lucky recipient of the Grizzly G0555
Bandsaw. I've never used a bandsaw before but I noticed that when
making cuts, resawing a 2x4 for example, the blade leaves a series of
ridges, wondering if this was normal or whether I have something setup
incorrectly. I'm just using the blade that came with it.

Even a new bandsaw could use a tune up. Get Duginske's "The Bandsaw
Book." Band saws can be rather finicky and there is a big difference
when they get out of whack. It is normal for a bandsaw cut will leave
some ridges, depending on the blade, type of wood, feed rate, etc.
For resawing, you want the widest blade, blade lead adjustments, and
possibly a high fence.

Well the first time I set it up the blade did decide to run itself into
the bearings, fixed that though, then there was some rubber on the
cuts, looking at the wheels they didn't look scored at all though, that
went away pretty quickly though. So now I guess I've just ruined the
already poor blade on it. I'll order a new one and see how that goes.
Thanks for all the info.

Also another quick question, in the manual it says to place the thrust
bearing four widths of a dollar bill behind the blade, while
finewoodworking says to adjust it to just touch the back of the blade.
What do people here do?

Okay and last question, when setting the guide bearings the manual says
when tightened they should still move, does this mean move without
moving the blade? Or does it just mean be able to turn (I suspect the
former).

Thanks again, Damian

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:11:58 -0500, John Carlson
wrote:


That said, some blades are better than others and the one that came
with the saw is probably a cheapie. I like the (good and reasonably
priced) Olson All-Pro blades for everyday use,

[snip]

Do you use an on-line source for these?

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 16:06:26 GMT, igor wrote:

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:11:58 -0500, John Carlson
wrote:


That said, some blades are better than others and the one that came
with the saw is probably a cheapie. I like the (good and reasonably
priced) Olson All-Pro blades for everyday use,

[snip]

Do you use an on-line source for these?

No, I buy them at a local fine-tool emporium. But a google search for
"olson all pro" turns up a number of on-line sources.
-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

My approach with both the thrust bearing and the guide blocks (I have
blocks, not bearings) is basically, as close as I can get it without
actually touching.

For the thrust bearing this means bring it up until it touches and
then back it off until I can just spin it. For the guide blocks it's
a little more of a judgment call, since they don't spin and they don't
have a screw adjustment to back them off. I don't really know how
guide bearings are supposed to go, but my guess is that I'd use the
same approach as for the thrust bearing.

On 30 Dec 2004 06:49:33 -0800, "damian penney"
wrote:

Also another quick question, in the manual it says to place the thrust
bearing four widths of a dollar bill behind the blade, while
finewoodworking says to adjust it to just touch the back of the blade.
What do people here do?

Okay and last question, when setting the guide bearings the manual says
when tightened they should still move, does this mean move without
moving the blade? Or does it just mean be able to turn (I suspect the
former).

Thanks again, Damian

-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

I use blocks on my G0555 instead of bearings. I simply bought a 1/2" oak
dowel and cut into small pieces that I use for blocks. Doing it this way, I
can pinch the entire blade without worry about damaging the gullets. It
provides great support and replacements are dirt cheap.

Don

"John Carlson" wrote in message
...
My approach with both the thrust bearing and the guide blocks (I have
blocks, not bearings) is basically, as close as I can get it without
actually touching.

For the thrust bearing this means bring it up until it touches and
then back it off until I can just spin it. For the guide blocks it's
a little more of a judgment call, since they don't spin and they don't
have a screw adjustment to back them off. I don't really know how
guide bearings are supposed to go, but my guess is that I'd use the
same approach as for the thrust bearing.

On 30 Dec 2004 06:49:33 -0800, "damian penney"
wrote:

Also another quick question, in the manual it says to place the thrust
bearing four widths of a dollar bill behind the blade, while
finewoodworking says to adjust it to just touch the back of the blade.
What do people here do?

Okay and last question, when setting the guide bearings the manual says
when tightened they should still move, does this mean move without
moving the blade? Or does it just mean be able to turn (I suspect the
former).

Thanks again, Damian

-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

Wouldn't using wood as a guide generate a great deal of heat?

John Carlson wrote in
news
with the saw is probably a cheapie. I like the (good and reasonably
priced) Olson All-Pro blades for everyday use, and the (very good but

Hi John,

I'd like to second your suggestion on the Olson blades. I bought one
locally when I broke my last Timberwolf (Olson was the only brand available
without going mail order). I've been surprised at how good a blade the
Olson is. Fine value.

Cheers,
Nate

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 04:40:30 GMT, Nate Perkins
wrote:

You need to be careful, folks here who love Timberwolf will not be happy
if you
praise Olson instead of Timberwolf. BTW did you know Olson made two type
of
blades: Olson and Olson All-Pro, have t you try the cheaper ones?

Thanks

I'd like to second your suggestion on the Olson blades. I bought one
locally when I broke my last Timberwolf (Olson was the only brand
available
without going mail order). I've been surprised at how good a blade the
Olson is. Fine value.

I purchased my first Olson All-Pro blade to fill out an order enough to
justify shipping. After using it for preparing blanks for turning for a
while, I placed my annual order to Suffolk again for their fine, efficient
and long-working blade which is worth the modest price difference to me.

"WD" wrote in message news:MyxBd.191$

I also read the reviewed on FWW, I went ahead and bought Timberwolf's
blades
with the recommendation of folks here. Timberwolf blades were really
disappointing even after replacement from Timberwolf.

Interesting. Read the review and bought a Woodslicer because of the rating.
I'm going back to Timberwolf or the LV equivalent.

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 07:28:43 -0600, WD wrote:


I also read the reviewed on FWW, I went ahead and bought Timberwolf's blades
with the recommendation of folks here. Timberwolf blades were really
disappointing even after replacement from Timberwolf. I than tried LV Viking
which, I believe a repackage of Timberwolf and I am not impress at all. My next
purchase will be an Olson "normal" or Olson Pro, which cost less than Timberwolf
and Viking.



What problems have you have with them ?

What was your beef with the Woodslicer, Ed?

David

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"WD" wrote in message news:MyxBd.191$

I also read the reviewed on FWW, I went ahead and bought Timberwolf's
blades
with the recommendation of folks here. Timberwolf blades were really
disappointing even after replacement from Timberwolf.


Interesting. Read the review and bought a Woodslicer because of the rating.
I'm going back to Timberwolf or the LV equivalent.

"David" wrote in message
...
What was your beef with the Woodslicer, Ed?

David

It cut OK, but I think the Timberwolf tracked better, straighter. It is not
a "bad" blade, but I think I got better results with the other. Could also
be the way I work, be that good or bad.

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 07:28:43 -0600, WD vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I would be interested to know exactly what went wrong.

I also read the reviewed on FWW, I went ahead and bought Timberwolf's blades
with the recommendation of folks here. Timberwolf blades were really
disappointing even after replacement from Timberwolf. I than tried LV Viking
which, I believe a repackage of Timberwolf and I am not impress at all. My next
purchase will be an Olson "normal" or Olson Pro, which cost less than Timberwolf
and Viking.

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 05:22:12 +0800, Old Nick
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

S'OK. Read your other reply. Sounds like it was not welded straight or
something, if other blades did not do this..

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 07:28:43 -0600, WD vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I would be interested to know exactly what went wrong.

I also read the reviewed on FWW, I went ahead and bought Timberwolf's blades
with the recommendation of folks here. Timberwolf blades were really
disappointing even after replacement from Timberwolf. I than tried LV Viking
which, I believe a repackage of Timberwolf and I am not impress at all. My next
purchase will be an Olson "normal" or Olson Pro, which cost less than Timberwolf
and Viking.

WD wrote in
:

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 04:40:30 GMT, Nate Perkins
wrote:

You need to be careful, folks here who love Timberwolf will not be
happy if you praise Olson instead of Timberwolf. BTW did you know
Olson made two type of blades: Olson and Olson All-Pro, have t you try
the cheaper ones?

Heh heh.

Well, I like Timberwolf, too. Not trying to diss the Timberwolf, nossir.
I was just surprised that the Olson was as good as it was being so cheap.

If I recall correctly the Olson was something like $13 locally for a 3/8"
wide 4tpi 105" blade. So my guess is that it was one of the cheaper ones.

I hate to be a dissenter but based on all the praise, I just bought two TW
blades and found them to work fine but certainly not enough better to
warrant twice the price. Belive it or not, the best blade I have is a
Vermont American 1/4" 6tpi. I have a couple of Olsons too and find all to
be about the same. The only one I would say I thought was garbage was the
3/8" blade that came with the Grizzly and the one that came with the riser
kit.

Don

"Nate Perkins" wrote in message
25.201...
WD wrote in
:

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 04:40:30 GMT, Nate Perkins
wrote:

You need to be careful, folks here who love Timberwolf will not be
happy if you praise Olson instead of Timberwolf. BTW did you know
Olson made two type of blades: Olson and Olson All-Pro, have t you try
the cheaper ones?

Heh heh.

Well, I like Timberwolf, too. Not trying to diss the Timberwolf, nossir.
I was just surprised that the Olson was as good as it was being so cheap.

If I recall correctly the Olson was something like $13 locally for a 3/8"
wide 4tpi 105" blade. So my guess is that it was one of the cheaper ones.

I hate to be a dissenter but based on all the praise, I just bought two TW
blades and found them to work fine but certainly not enough better to
warrant twice the price. Belive it or not, the best blade I have is a
Vermont American 1/4" 6tpi. I have a couple of Olsons too and find all to
be about the same. The only one I would say I thought was garbage was the
3/8" blade that came with the Grizzly and the one that came with the riser
kit.

Don

"Nate Perkins" wrote in message
25.201...
WD wrote in
:

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 04:40:30 GMT, Nate Perkins
wrote:

You need to be careful, folks here who love Timberwolf will not be
happy if you praise Olson instead of Timberwolf. BTW did you know
Olson made two type of blades: Olson and Olson All-Pro, have t you try
the cheaper ones?

Heh heh.

Well, I like Timberwolf, too. Not trying to diss the Timberwolf, nossir.
I was just surprised that the Olson was as good as it was being so cheap.

If I recall correctly the Olson was something like $13 locally for a 3/8"
wide 4tpi 105" blade. So my guess is that it was one of the cheaper ones.

I just ordered eight blades (4 for the price of 3) from Suffolk, where are
you dropping your bucks?

For example 3/8 x 105 @ 17.41 * 3 = 52.23 = 13.05 each for the four.

"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
I hate to be a dissenter but based on all the praise, I just bought two TW
blades and found them to work fine but certainly not enough better to
warrant twice the price.

"Nate Perkins" wrote in message
25.201...

Well, I like Timberwolf, too. Not trying to diss the Timberwolf,
nossir.
I was just surprised that the Olson was as good as it was being so
cheap.

If I recall correctly the Olson was something like $13 locally for a
3/8"
wide 4tpi 105" blade. So my guess is that it was one of the cheaper
ones.

I wasn't aware of the four for three deal. I bought two with one being
slightly under $18 and one being a little over. Not exactly twice, but not
enough better in my opinion to warrant the extra cost - (if you don't do the
same deal you did).

Don

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
I just ordered eight blades (4 for the price of 3) from Suffolk, where are
you dropping your bucks?

For example 3/8 x 105 @ 17.41 * 3 = 52.23 = 13.05 each for the four.

"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
I hate to be a dissenter but based on all the praise, I just bought two
TW
blades and found them to work fine but certainly not enough better to
warrant twice the price.

"Nate Perkins" wrote in message
25.201...

Well, I like Timberwolf, too. Not trying to diss the Timberwolf,
nossir.
I was just surprised that the Olson was as good as it was being so
cheap.

If I recall correctly the Olson was something like $13 locally for a
3/8"
wide 4tpi 105" blade. So my guess is that it was one of the cheaper
ones.

Well I figured that metal would generate less friction than wood, but
seeing as the whole point of the blade is to cut through wood I guess
it doesn't matter