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Big John
 
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Default I Need a Right Tilt Unisaw Motor Cover

I have a right tilt unisaw, 1987, and am need of a motor cover.

If anyone has one laying around, or feels that don't need the one they
have now, I would be happy to have it.

Thanks, John
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Jim Behning
 
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You see that piece of plywood? You see that saw. Add some pencil
marks, some electricity, some glue and you have motor cover. It has
worked for me. A few ventilation holes properly spaced and sized helps
the vacuum system keep things tidy around the motor.

Big John wrote:

I have a right tilt unisaw, 1987, and am need of a motor cover.

If anyone has one laying around, or feels that don't need the one they
have now, I would be happy to have it.

Thanks, John


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Big John
 
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Default

I need to check, but I think these pricey motors on the Unisaws are
TEFC and do not need ventilation for cooling.

I think I will build my own motor cover. I have a huge surplus of
3/4" plywood.

Thanks, John


On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 15:15:05 GMT, Jim Behning
wrote:

You see that piece of plywood? You see that saw. Add some pencil
marks, some electricity, some glue and you have motor cover. It has
worked for me. A few ventilation holes properly spaced and sized helps
the vacuum system keep things tidy around the motor.

Big John wrote:

I have a right tilt unisaw, 1987, and am need of a motor cover.

If anyone has one laying around, or feels that don't need the one they
have now, I would be happy to have it.

Thanks, John


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Unisaw A100
 
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Default

Big John wrote:
I need to check, but I think these pricey motors on the Unisaws are
TEFC and do not need ventilation for cooling.


Akchoolee, you don't want also to be passing the same warm
air over the motor. Warmness to a motor is what makes the
bearings not last as long and will lead to the eventual
escapement of the magic smoke and we all know what happens
when the magic smoke gets out.

And 'sides, what Jim was getting at was that the vent holes
bring in "make up" air near the motor and keep it clean, and
I might also add, cooler.

I think I will build my own motor cover. I have a huge surplus of
3/4" plywood.


I would suggest some Bondo and a nice coating of Dark
Machinery Gray when it's all over. Done right the saw's own
mother won't know it's a ho-made.

UA100
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Jim Behning
 
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Default

The ventless cover I made at the shop worked fine because that saw was
rarely used more than a few minutes. So I thought. When I removed the
cover I saw all the dust that had settled arond the motor. The
suggestion for vents was twofold. The factory cover has them. At least
a few I saw. Second was to get some air swirling around when the
vacuum system is running to draw the dust away from the motor. UA100
mentions the best reason which is to help keep the motor cool.

I noticed that some of the covers have a beveled or angled bottom.
Dust may be able to slide off of the angle bottom? My saw had a shelf
in the way so I had made it a square box. Next time I will figure out
how to make it with the angled bottom. If I ever sell some tools so I
can buy a single phase motor and the house wiring for th eUnisaw.

Unisaw A100 wrote:

Big John wrote:
I need to check, but I think these pricey motors on the Unisaws are
TEFC and do not need ventilation for cooling.


Akchoolee, you don't want also to be passing the same warm
air over the motor. Warmness to a motor is what makes the
bearings not last as long and will lead to the eventual
escapement of the magic smoke and we all know what happens
when the magic smoke gets out.

And 'sides, what Jim was getting at was that the vent holes
bring in "make up" air near the motor and keep it clean, and
I might also add, cooler.

I think I will build my own motor cover. I have a huge surplus of
3/4" plywood.


I would suggest some Bondo and a nice coating of Dark
Machinery Gray when it's all over. Done right the saw's own
mother won't know it's a ho-made.

UA100




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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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Default


"Big John" wrote in message
...
I need to check, but I think these pricey motors on the Unisaws are
TEFC and do not need ventilation for cooling.


TEFC means Totally Enclosed FAN Cooled. You still want to move the air so
it does not become too hot inside the enclosure. Sure, a three minute run
time in a 50 degree shop is certainly not a problem, but an hour at 95
degrees can give quite a temperature rise in the enclosure.


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