I've read plenty of advice on this list against making your own
hardwood flooring. But since I'm not so bright and stubborn as hell
I'm going to do it anyway ;-) I'm going to do a small room (only about
150 square feet) tht my daughter will use as a dance/play room. Its an
upstairs room with a plywood subfloor (currently carpeted).

I've got a ton of beautiful 8/4 hard maple in 10' lengths, from 6"-13"
wide. I've also got enough brazilian cherry to trim the perimeter of
the room. Its a mortal sin not to do something with this wood! Here's
my plan- if you're so inclined please respond with any advice/comments
etc. I'm not experienced at this, but have all the tools I should
need.

1) Resaw some 8/4 planks to 4/4. Let sit a couple weeks to readjust.
2) Jointer the bottom and one edge, flat & square
3) Rip to a conistent width (I've read 2 1/2" is standard and advised
because of wood movement, any advice?)
4) Surface plane down to 3/4"
5) T&G the edges on a router table.
6) Since I don't have a shaper, I'd need to do the bottom reliefs using
the table saw. Any reason not to do this?
7) Sand the top smooth using a drum sander
8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing? Would any kind of rubber pad or moisture barrier be
helpful/desired?
9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?
10) Finishing advice for hard maple? (I want clear, probably mild
gloss)
11) Know any good chiropracters in the bay area?

Thanks a million.
Eric

wrote in message
oups.com...

9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?

Yes, there will be little imperfections where the boards meet.


10) Finishing advice for hard maple? (I want clear, probably mild
gloss)

I've seen water based poly recommended by a lot of flooring pros. I don't
have personal experience with it.


11) Know any good chiropracters in the bay area?

Knee pads. Don't even think about starting without them.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I've read plenty of advice on this list against making your own
hardwood flooring. But since I'm not so bright and stubborn as hell
I'm going to do it anyway ;-) I'm going to do a small room (only about
150 square feet) tht my daughter will use as a dance/play room. Its an
upstairs room with a plywood subfloor (currently carpeted).
1) Resaw some 8/4 planks to 4/4. Let sit a couple weeks to readjust.
2) Jointer the bottom and one edge, flat & square
3) Rip to a conistent width (I've read 2 1/2" is standard and advised
because of wood movement, any advice?)
4) Surface plane down to 3/4"
5) T&G the edges on a router table.
6) Since I don't have a shaper, I'd need to do the bottom reliefs using
the table saw. Any reason not to do this?

Are you talking about the grooves on the bottom of standard hardwood
flooring? If you mean with a shaper head that goes in the table saw, I
don't see a problem.

7) Sand the top smooth using a drum sander
8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing? Would any kind of rubber pad or moisture barrier be
helpful/desired?

I put down a prefinished 3/4" oak floor in one of our bedrooms 4 or 5 years
ago. I seem to remember putting down tar paper over the subfloor.

9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?

The prefinished flooring I bought was still not completely smooth once
installed. If you're looking for something that is smooth, I think you're
going to have to sand it in situ.

todd

Hi,
While I have never milled flooring I have bought unfinished mill run flooring,
cut out the bad sections, sanded, finished and installed. I used biscuits on
the ends. Probably unconventional, but it was fast and simple -- and the floor
has held up fine. If you want to finish first (or at least not sand after
installation) you have to bevel the edges otherwise the difference in heights
will be very apparent. I like the beveled edge look, but if you want a
basketball court type smooth floor, you will have to plan to sand it once it is
installed. I have used a 4 x 24 belt sander followed by a random orbit sander
for a hallway, but for any reasonable size room, do yourself a favor and rent a
floor sander. I installed my floors over a half lapped double layer of roofing
felt. My goal was twofold -- moisture barrier from basement and prevent
squeeks. Seemed to work OK. I suppose it would be possible to hand nail, but
a flooring nailer makes the job go quickly. I used one that was powered by a
strike with a big mallet, but air assisted ones are available. You still must
hit them with a mallet to set the board in place which then activates the air
drive mechanism. I bought my nailer at a local auction and then sold it again
when I was done with it. Renting one would be a more conventional approach.

Have fun.
Mill

Subject: Making my own hardwood floor
From: "Todd Fatheree"
Date: 19/12/2004 21:01 Eastern Standard Time
Message-id:

wrote in message
roups.com...
I've read plenty of advice on this list against making your own
hardwood flooring. But since I'm not so bright and stubborn as hell
I'm going to do it anyway ;-) I'm going to do a small room (only about
150 square feet) tht my daughter will use as a dance/play room. Its an
upstairs room with a plywood subfloor (currently carpeted).
1) Resaw some 8/4 planks to 4/4. Let sit a couple weeks to readjust.
2) Jointer the bottom and one edge, flat & square
3) Rip to a conistent width (I've read 2 1/2" is standard and advised
because of wood movement, any advice?)
4) Surface plane down to 3/4"
5) T&G the edges on a router table.
6) Since I don't have a shaper, I'd need to do the bottom reliefs using
the table saw. Any reason not to do this?

Are you talking about the grooves on the bottom of standard hardwood
flooring? If you mean with a shaper head that goes in the table saw, I
don't see a problem.

7) Sand the top smooth using a drum sander
8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing? Would any kind of rubber pad or moisture barrier be
helpful/desired?

I put down a prefinished 3/4" oak floor in one of our bedrooms 4 or 5 years
ago. I seem to remember putting down tar paper over the subfloor.

9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?

The prefinished flooring I bought was still not completely smooth once
installed. If you're looking for something that is smooth, I think you're
going to have to sand it in situ.

todd

Others have given you some good advice on milling the flooring so I'll only
add one note about finishing. Highly unlikely that all the wood will have
the same tone and therefore will not look even when you finish it. You may
want to think about applying mild bleaching agent to even the overall
appearance out.

I'm presently building a maple table top and although I hand-picked the wood
specifically so it would all look the same - it's not good enough. I tried a
wood bleaching kit from HD which worked very well and all the wood is the
same tone. Just don't sand to hard on the final sanding. The kit is out in
the shop and it's -7°F out there right now so I'm sure you won't mind if I
don't go out there and look for it....

Bob S.

Eric, I would guess the main drawback to making the flooring yourself is the
cost of materials and then the cost of your labor.

If these are not barriers, go for it.

Dave

wrote in message
oups.com...
I've read plenty of advice on this list against making your own
hardwood flooring. But since I'm not so bright and stubborn as hell
I'm going to do it anyway ;-) I'm going to do a small room (only about
150 square feet) tht my daughter will use as a dance/play room. Its an
upstairs room with a plywood subfloor (currently carpeted).

I've got a ton of beautiful 8/4 hard maple in 10' lengths, from 6"-13"
wide. I've also got enough brazilian cherry to trim the perimeter of
the room. Its a mortal sin not to do something with this wood! Here's
my plan- if you're so inclined please respond with any advice/comments
etc. I'm not experienced at this, but have all the tools I should
need.

1) Resaw some 8/4 planks to 4/4. Let sit a couple weeks to readjust.
2) Jointer the bottom and one edge, flat & square
3) Rip to a conistent width (I've read 2 1/2" is standard and advised
because of wood movement, any advice?)
4) Surface plane down to 3/4"
5) T&G the edges on a router table.
6) Since I don't have a shaper, I'd need to do the bottom reliefs using
the table saw. Any reason not to do this?
7) Sand the top smooth using a drum sander
8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing? Would any kind of rubber pad or moisture barrier be
helpful/desired?
9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?
10) Finishing advice for hard maple? (I want clear, probably mild
gloss)
11) Know any good chiropracters in the bay area?

Thanks a million.
Eric

I find that a bit of peanut butter on the hook will help draw out the old
lurkers.

-j


wrote in message
oups.com...
I've read plenty of advice on this list against making your own
hardwood flooring. But since I'm not so bright and stubborn as hell
I'm going to do it anyway ;-) I'm going to do a small room (only about
150 square feet) tht my daughter will use as a dance/play room. Its an
upstairs room with a plywood subfloor (currently carpeted).

I've got a ton of beautiful 8/4 hard maple in 10' lengths, from 6"-13"
wide. I've also got enough brazilian cherry to trim the perimeter of
the room. Its a mortal sin not to do something with this wood! Here's
my plan- if you're so inclined please respond with any advice/comments
etc. I'm not experienced at this, but have all the tools I should
need.

1) Resaw some 8/4 planks to 4/4. Let sit a couple weeks to readjust.
2) Jointer the bottom and one edge, flat & square
3) Rip to a conistent width (I've read 2 1/2" is standard and advised
because of wood movement, any advice?)
4) Surface plane down to 3/4"
5) T&G the edges on a router table.
6) Since I don't have a shaper, I'd need to do the bottom reliefs using
the table saw. Any reason not to do this?
7) Sand the top smooth using a drum sander
8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing? Would any kind of rubber pad or moisture barrier be
helpful/desired?
9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?
10) Finishing advice for hard maple? (I want clear, probably mild
gloss)
11) Know any good chiropracters in the bay area?

Thanks a million.
Eric

wrote in message
oups.com...


8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing?

You might want one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

wrote:
I've read plenty of advice on this list against making your own
hardwood flooring. But since I'm not so bright and stubborn as hell
I'm going to do it anyway ;-) I'm going to do a small room (only about
150 square feet) tht my daughter will use as a dance/play room. Its an
upstairs room with a plywood subfloor (currently carpeted).

I've got a ton of beautiful 8/4 hard maple in 10' lengths, from 6"-13"
wide. I've also got enough brazilian cherry to trim the perimeter of
the room. Its a mortal sin not to do something with this wood! Here's
my plan- if you're so inclined please respond with any advice/comments
etc. I'm not experienced at this, but have all the tools I should
need.

1) Resaw some 8/4 planks to 4/4. Let sit a couple weeks to readjust.

Why not cut to the required width first, would be easyer to resaw.

2) Jointer the bottom and one edge, flat & square
3) Rip to a conistent width (I've read 2 1/2" is standard and advised
because of wood movement, any advice?)
4) Surface plane down to 3/4"
5) T&G the edges on a router table.
6) Since I don't have a shaper, I'd need to do the bottom reliefs using
the table saw. Any reason not to do this?

No reason, reason this was done was to save shipping weight on the final
product. (Believe it or not)

7) Sand the top smooth using a drum sander
8) Rip up the carpet, mesure cut etc & install the boards. Any advice
here on nailing? Would any kind of rubber pad or moisture barrier be
helpful/desired?

Power nailer. Red rosen paper is OK for the second floor, only reason to use it
is to help the flooring slip into place.

9) Will I need to do any additional sanding on the installed floor, if
I've already got it smooth before installing?

YES. to prevent tripping on the boards from overage. Like that flooring term.
It means the uneven boards from milling.

10) Finishing advice for hard maple? (I want clear, probably mild
gloss)

Pro waterbase finish, with hardner. "Street Shoe, or "Traffic, search the net

11) Know any good chiropracters in the bay area?

Must be some with all that butt riding going on, sorry could not resist.


Thanks a million.
Eric