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  #1   Report Post  
Ron Truitt
 
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Default 220v extension cord for Table saw?

I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.

Thanks,

RonT

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Swingman
 
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"Ron Truitt" wrote in message
I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.


IME, 220v extension cords are hard to come by locally, and cheaper to make
yourself. Just use the proper gauge wire, preferably stranded for an
extension cord, for the amperage of your circuit, and you will be fine.

For my table saw I made a 15' extension cord out of the 10 ga stranded wire,
which is the same size in the circuit to the receptacle. Male and female
plugs are generally available at the BORGs.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04


  #4   Report Post  
Jim Behning
 
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A good electical house will have them, Grainger, McMaster Carr, MSC
will also have them if you are in the US. You just get some SO or SJ
cord the correct gauge. Hubbell is one brand. Pass & Seymour is
another brand.

(Ron Truitt) wrote:

I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.

Thanks,

RonT


  #5   Report Post  
Rebel \(Ron\)
 
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Howdy
I have seen them in commerical wholesale business. Why not make your
own. Ten feet would not require large gauge cable. The main thing is 4
wire cable and 220v m/f connectors. 12 gauge wire should be sufficient.
Keep in mind the longer the wire the less voltage at the other end.

Ron

"Ron Truitt" wrote in message
...
I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.

Thanks,

RonT





  #6   Report Post  
Bruce
 
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On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 16:30:06 -0700, Rebel \(Ron\) wrote
(in article ):


I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.

Thanks,

RonT


For a typical 3hp table saw you'll only need 12 gauge wire. Look for sales or
buy a 25 foot extension cord. Cut the ends off and install 220v plug and
receptacle that corresponds with your 220v socket and table saw plug. You
might need to install the receptacle in a metal box with the appropriate
strain relief to clam onto the cord. A nicer alternative is to buy the
sheathed 10 gauge 3/wire rubber covered (usually black) cut to your required
length. One wire to each hot and ground.

-Bruce



  #7   Report Post  
Mike Marlow
 
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"Rebel (Ron)" wrote in message
...
Howdy
I have seen them in commerical wholesale business. Why not make your
own. Ten feet would not require large gauge cable.


10 guage cable will support up to 30 amps.

The main thing is 4
wire cable and 220v m/f connectors.


3 wire is all he'll need for shop tools, unless he's hooking up a clothes
dryer next to his table saw.

12 gauge wire should be sufficient.


Maybe - depends on the current draw of the tool. 12 guage will support 20
amps - likely sufficient for most tools that will plug into an extension
cord.

Keep in mind the longer the wire the less voltage at the other end.


Not at these lengths.


--

-Mike-



  #12   Report Post  
J. Clarke
 
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Charlie Self wrote:

Phisherman writes:

nstall another 220v outlet (or two).

On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 16:47:15 -0600, (Ron Truitt)
wrote:

I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.


I use two different pattern 220 volt extensions for machines that cannot
be moved close enough to any of the six 220 outlets I currently have. In
many cases, there simply is NO way to move the machine close enough to the
outlet. Short cords. Blocked outlets (with wood or other machines). Those
are only reasons.

I haven't found any commercially available 220 extensions, but there
probably are some. They're easy enough to make.


Lowes usually has some in stock. Typically though you either have to make
up an adapter cable to get it to plug into whatever socket you have in the
wall and another one at the other end or change the plug on the machine to
match the cord. Or you need to cut the connectors off and replace them
with connectors that match your machine and outlet, in which case you may
as well just get a 110v cord and do the same. Finding plugs that fit a
standard dryer outlet can be problematical--you may have to get a
replacement dryer cord and put a socket on the other end of it that takes a
readily available plug.

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than
Christianity has made them good." H. L. Mencken


--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
  #13   Report Post  
sandman
 
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Again, a very informative thread.

One thing which hasn't been mentioned, is the importance of
strain-relieves. When using a twist-lock plug, the amount of pull on a
'tripped-over' wire can be enough to break away the stranded wires from
the attachment screws. Make sure that the strain relief is suited for
size of the wire chosen.
Sometimes people think they need to go to heavier gauge wire when the
voltage doubles, while in fact the opposite is true.

my 2 cents worth ($33.00 Canadian)
  #14   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
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(Ron Truitt) writes:

I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.


Get a 25 or 50 ft, 12-2 /w/ ground, molded cord set of whatever voltage is
available at the lowest price.

Cut off the female end and wire into saw.

If not already 240V, cut off male plug and rewire with 240V plug.

It is how I rigged mine.

HTH

Lew


  #15   Report Post  
Greg O
 
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"Ron Truitt" wrote in message
...
I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.

Thanks,

RonT


They are hard to find.
What I did was to buy a 25 foot, 12 gauge, 120 volt, extension cord. Loop
off both ends, add an approprite male plug on the one end and completely
remove the original cord on the saw an install my new 25 footer. Cheaper as
you only need one plug, and no hassle with "one more cord" lying about.
Greg




  #18   Report Post  
Ba r r y
 
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On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 19:02:54 GMT, mac davis
wrote:


In my area, (central CA), you can't GET them..
I had to make my own out of Romex...


Don't you also have to show an id to buy spray paint? G

Barry
  #19   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:53:11 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 19:02:54 GMT, mac davis
wrote:


In my area, (central CA), you can't GET them..
I had to make my own out of Romex...


Don't you also have to show an id to buy spray paint? G

Barry


haven't used it in years, but I think you do, if you look young (i
sure don't!)
between the sniffers and the taggers, they used to sell a lot of spray
paint!

  #21   Report Post  
Robert Galloway
 
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I have 220 volt extension cords all over the shop. Somebody more
attuned to the regs may tell you I'm crazy, I don't know. I just buy
the heavyest cable I can find, #12 extension cord or #10 stranded cable
with a heavy jacket off the spool. Put a plug on one end and an outlet
to match your tool on the other. Run the tool where you want to, not
close to where the outlet is.

bob g.

Ron Truitt wrote:
I am considering getting a 220 volt table saw but have 220 volt
available at the entrance to my garage and would have to have an
extension cord of 10 feet or so.

Is that a problem and if not are they comercially available? I have
never seen anything in 220 but am not use to the search.

Thanks,

RonT

  #22   Report Post  
Brett A. Thomas
 
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Robert Galloway wrote:
I have 220 volt extension cords all over the shop. Somebody more
attuned to the regs may tell you I'm crazy, I don't know. I just buy
the heavyest cable I can find, #12 extension cord or #10 stranded cable
with a heavy jacket off the spool. Put a plug on one end and an outlet
to match your tool on the other. Run the tool where you want to, not
close to where the outlet is.


Hey, Bob, you see that great article in Tools & Shops this month about
shop fires?

-BAT
  #23   Report Post  
Charlie Self
 
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Brett A. Thomas responds:

Robert Galloway wrote:
I have 220 volt extension cords all over the shop. Somebody more
attuned to the regs may tell you I'm crazy, I don't know. I just buy
the heavyest cable I can find, #12 extension cord or #10 stranded cable
with a heavy jacket off the spool. Put a plug on one end and an outlet
to match your tool on the other. Run the tool where you want to, not
close to where the outlet is.


Hey, Bob, you see that great article in Tools & Shops this month about
shop fires?


And why would 240 volt extension cords be any more likely to create shop fires
than would, say, 120 volt extension cords?

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity
has made them good." H. L. Mencken
  #24   Report Post  
Brett A. Thomas
 
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Charlie Self wrote:
And why would 240 volt extension cords be any more likely to create shop fires
than would, say, 120 volt extension cords?


Just a joke, Charlie. Although, FWIW, I'd tend to be a little more
suspicious of shop-made extension cords (whatever their voltage) than of
the UL-listed ones. No disrespect to Bob's cable-making in particular
intended, though.
  #25   Report Post  
Dave Hinz
 
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Default

On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 13:59:47 -0800, Brett A. Thomas wrote:
Charlie Self wrote:
And why would 240 volt extension cords be any more likely to create shop fires
than would, say, 120 volt extension cords?


Just a joke, Charlie. Although, FWIW, I'd tend to be a little more
suspicious of shop-made extension cords (whatever their voltage) than of
the UL-listed ones. No disrespect to Bob's cable-making in particular
intended, though.


Well...if you're using UL listed connectors, and UL listed wire, and
using both according to how they're supposed to be used, you're fine.

An interesting side note - coiling of extension cords while in use is
a really, really bad idea. It makes a huge inductor (coil) which blocks
AC current and generates a LOT of heat. I have a friend who is a master
electrician, and among other jobs always handles the power systems at the
county fair. He's got more than a couple trophies which are melted-together
coils of what used to be extension cords on reels of one sort or another.
Power loss is substantial in a coiled AC cord.

That said, I have no hesitation making my own extension cords where
appropriate, but I do the calculations before I do so.

Dave Hinz



  #26   Report Post  
Mike Marlow
 
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"Brett A. Thomas" wrote in message
...
Charlie Self wrote:
And why would 240 volt extension cords be any more likely to create shop

fires
than would, say, 120 volt extension cords?


Just a joke, Charlie. Although, FWIW, I'd tend to be a little more
suspicious of shop-made extension cords (whatever their voltage) than of
the UL-listed ones. No disrespect to Bob's cable-making in particular
intended, though.


Would you be equally more suspicious of shop made wood products than of
commercially manufactured ones?

--

-Mike-



  #27   Report Post  
Robert Galloway
 
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My 10-3 awg extension with heavy neoprene cover and carrying 220 volts
will probably stand up to more than most of the extension cords I've
seen contractors running around job sites carrying 110 volts. Amps
versus wire guage are probably most important in overheating and general
construction will determine how well it stands up to foot traffic and
having things rolled over it such as mobile base mounted tools or
wheelbarrows.

bob g.

Charlie Self wrote:
Brett A. Thomas responds:


Robert Galloway wrote:

I have 220 volt extension cords all over the shop. Somebody more
attuned to the regs may tell you I'm crazy, I don't know. I just buy
the heavyest cable I can find, #12 extension cord or #10 stranded cable
with a heavy jacket off the spool. Put a plug on one end and an outlet
to match your tool on the other. Run the tool where you want to, not
close to where the outlet is.


Hey, Bob, you see that great article in Tools & Shops this month about
shop fires?



And why would 240 volt extension cords be any more likely to create shop fires
than would, say, 120 volt extension cords?

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity
has made them good." H. L. Mencken

  #28   Report Post  
Robert Galloway
 
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Yup. Saw it. Don't see where it applies???

bob g.

Brett A. Thomas wrote:
Robert Galloway wrote:

I have 220 volt extension cords all over the shop. Somebody more
attuned to the regs may tell you I'm crazy, I don't know. I just buy
the heavyest cable I can find, #12 extension cord or #10 stranded
cable with a heavy jacket off the spool. Put a plug on one end and an
outlet to match your tool on the other. Run the tool where you want
to, not close to where the outlet is.



Hey, Bob, you see that great article in Tools & Shops this month about
shop fires?

-BAT

  #29   Report Post  
Brett A. Thomas
 
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Robert Galloway wrote:
Yup. Saw it. Don't see where it applies???

bob g.


Sorry, just the first thing that popped into my head when I read it.
Not trying to make any particular criticism of your electrical choices,
meant to be lighthearted joshing.
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