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Chuck Hoffman
 
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Default Tablesaw followup

Some of you may remember that I'm refurbishing an old Sears flex drive
tablesaw. I got the rust off, adjusted the trunnion so the blade was
parallel with the miter gauge slot, and adjusted the miter gauge stops for
accuracy.

I found the old stamped steel fence was just not worth messing with. When
adjusted for minimum error at 4" or so from the blade, the error would
exceed .030" at around 15". I ordered a Craftsman Align-a-rip 24/24
extruded aluminum fence as a replacement.

Due to the fact that the rod that carries the blade guard and splitter goes
right thru where the rear fence rail would be, I was not able to set it up
for left-of-blade rip. I had the rails shortened for right side rip only
and installed them today. I got the fence alignment error down to about
..005" overall.

Using the fence, I cut and compared two plywood panels. They started out as
nearly square 18" pieces so I numbered all four edges in pencil on both
pieces and ran edges 1 and 2 on both. I reset the fence about 1/4" shorter
and ran edges 3 and 4. When finished, I compared the two pieces and they
were exactly even all the way around. I even flipped one over (face down)
and compared again. They aligned perfectly.

The only thing I have left to do now is reset the front rail slightly. It
cuts about 1/16" long. I'll do that after I install a new blade.

When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron (open
web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge with
hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00. And
that includes a spare flex drive shaft.


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Swingman
 
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"Chuck Hoffman" wrote in message

When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron

(open
web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge with
hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00.


.... and the _satisfaction_ that you resurrected it, know the tool inside and
out, and can keep it operating at peak with the knowledge you've gained.

Congratulations ... 'you suck', on the satisfaction alone.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04


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Dave Balderstone
 
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Default

In article , Chuck
Hoffman wrote:

When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron (open
web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge with
hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00. And
that includes a spare flex drive shaft.


Sweet. Well done.
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Ace
 
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Default

I suggest you get some 1/4" Masonite and cut some pieces to fit the open web
slots so that the wings will be level on both sides. I did that to a
Craftsman saw I previously had and it made a big difference, and nothing got
caught then in the webs. I prefer solid cast iron wings and would never
again have the ones with webs.


"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
tone.ca...
In article , Chuck
Hoffman wrote:

When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron

(open
web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge

with
hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00.

And
that includes a spare flex drive shaft.


Sweet. Well done.



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