I have 3 spiral router bits that are (supposed to be) made of carbide.
They have 8 cutters - on the end and along the body.
They do great flat bottoming and very clean cuts.
I have used 2 of them in my plunge router - and they work great.

Tonight I tried the 3rd one in my router table (same router, PC690) - and it
didn't work
It burned not cut - and I was working on pine.
To the touch the cutters feel sharp
The router is turning the right way
I did take the protective goop off of it first (actually long ago)

It is a 1/4" shank , and a 3/8" cutter

This is the first time I've used this particular bit

Is there something about spiral bits that they need to get plunged for them
to work correctly?
It doesn't make sense to me, but I thought I would bring this question to
the collective wisdom for some insight.

Thx
Matt


--
M. Silver

A left handed tool.
More on spirals at the http://www.patwarner.com/faq.html link.
****************************************
I have 3 spiral router bits that are (supposed to be) made of carbide.
They have 8 cutters - on the end and along the body.
They do great flat bottoming and very clean cuts.
I have used 2 of them in my plunge router - and they work great.

Tonight I tried the 3rd one in my router table (same router, PC690) - and it
didn't work
It burned not cut - and I was working on pine.
To the touch the cutters feel sharp
The router is turning the right way
I did take the protective goop off of it first (actually long ago)

It is a 1/4" shank , and a 3/8" cutter

This is the first time I've used this particular bit

Is there something about spiral bits that they need to get plunged for them
to work correctly?
It doesn't make sense to me, but I thought I would bring this question to
the collective wisdom for some insight.

Thx
Matt

"M" wrote in message
. ..


I have 3 spiral router bits that are (supposed to be) made of carbide.
They have 8 cutters - on the end and along the body.

Matt - can you post a link to the bits? Maybe from the manufacturer or
dealer? I'm curious to see what type of spiral you bought.

For example, I have some of these:
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-router...228902_15669+9

Sounds like a bit for a die grinder, not a router. Eight flutes?

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"M" wrote in message
. ..
I have 3 spiral router bits that are (supposed to be) made of carbide.
They have 8 cutters - on the end and along the body.
They do great flat bottoming and very clean cuts.
I have used 2 of them in my plunge router - and they work great.

Tonight I tried the 3rd one in my router table (same router, PC690) - and
it
didn't work
It burned not cut - and I was working on pine.
To the touch the cutters feel sharp
The router is turning the right way
I did take the protective goop off of it first (actually long ago)

It is a 1/4" shank , and a 3/8" cutter

This is the first time I've used this particular bit

Is there something about spiral bits that they need to get plunged for
them
to work correctly?
It doesn't make sense to me, but I thought I would bring this question to
the collective wisdom for some insight.

Thx
Matt


--
M. Silver

I've never seen a carbide spiral bit that had a cutter larger than the
shank. They might be high speed steel, and they might be getting dull.
Pine is notorious for building up pitch on cutters, too, so make sure you're
cleaning the flutes, regularly.

--
Kevin
-=#=-
"M" wrote in message
. ..
I have 3 spiral router bits that are (supposed to be) made of carbide.
They have 8 cutters - on the end and along the body.
They do great flat bottoming and very clean cuts.
I have used 2 of them in my plunge router - and they work great.

Tonight I tried the 3rd one in my router table (same router, PC690) - and
it
didn't work
It burned not cut - and I was working on pine.
To the touch the cutters feel sharp
The router is turning the right way
I did take the protective goop off of it first (actually long ago)

It is a 1/4" shank , and a 3/8" cutter

This is the first time I've used this particular bit

Is there something about spiral bits that they need to get plunged for
them
to work correctly?
It doesn't make sense to me, but I thought I would bring this question to
the collective wisdom for some insight.

Thx
Matt


--
M. Silver

Updated information
I looked at the 1/2" when I described the 3 of them, and I was wrong


of the 3 bits - all 1/4" shank
1/4" - spiral, 2 spiralling cutters, bought at Lee Valley - I'm sure it is
carbide

the other two I bought at the TO wood show last Feb from one of the bit
sellers
3/8" - 6 spiralling cutters, with cutting type crown
1/2" - 8 spiralling cutters with cutting type crown

I have since tried the 3/8" in my plunge router on both pine and oak and it
works like I recall the 1/2" bit working - great - clean sharp edges at the
top of the wood and a flat clean bottom.

Lessons learned:
- these two funky bits are only for plunge use
- they are not likely carbide
- I'm not dead yet - I learned something today (my daily goal)

I have posted pictures of them at
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=476
If it is hard to find (shouldn't be) it is in general routing, thread about
problems with spiral bits in a table.

Thanks for the tips.

As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated herein. =
Please bear with me.

Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits.
=20
Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are =
always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there =
is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through =
the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a =
clean entrance.
=20
If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get a =
small fire and the wood will get burned.=20

Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where the =
steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. =
Freud makes such bits. =20

Pass this on to whoever might be interested.

--=20

PDQ
--

"Matt" wrote in message =
. ..
| Updated information
| I looked at the 1/2" when I described the 3 of them, and I was wrong
|=20
|=20
| of the 3 bits - all 1/4" shank
| 1/4" - spiral, 2 spiralling cutters, bought at Lee Valley - I'm sure =
it is=20
| carbide
|=20
| the other two I bought at the TO wood show last Feb from one of the =
bit=20
| sellers
| 3/8" - 6 spiralling cutters, with cutting type crown
| 1/2" - 8 spiralling cutters with cutting type crown
|=20
| I have since tried the 3/8" in my plunge router on both pine and oak =
and it=20
| works like I recall the 1/2" bit working - great - clean sharp edges =
at the=20
| top of the wood and a flat clean bottom.
|=20
| Lessons learned:
| - these two funky bits are only for plunge use
| - they are not likely carbide
| - I'm not dead yet - I learned something today (my daily goal)
|=20
| I have posted pictures of them at
| http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=3D476
| If it is hard to find (shouldn't be) it is in general routing, thread =
about=20
| problems with spiral bits in a table.
|=20
| Thanks for the tips.
|=20
|

Yup. That's why I never could figure out why I would want one.

--=20

PDQ
--
=20
"Leonard Lopez" wrote in message =
...
| You might add that solid carbide bits are very brittle.
|=20
| PDQ wrote:
| As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated =
herein. Please bear with me.
| =20
| Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits.
| =20
| Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are =
always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there =
is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through =
the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a =
clean entrance.
| =20
| If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get =
a small fire and the wood will get burned.=20
| =20
| Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where =
the steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid =
carbide. Freud makes such bits. =20
| =20
| Pass this on to whoever might be interested.
| =20
|

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 20:24:01 -0500, "PDQ" wrote:

As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated herein. Please bear with me.

sure you can:
http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?dq=&num=25&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=rec.woodworking

Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits.

If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get a small fire and the wood will get burned.

bull****.

You might add that solid carbide bits are very brittle.

PDQ wrote:
As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated herein. Please bear with me.

Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits.

Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a clean entrance.

If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get a small fire and the wood will get burned.

Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where the steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. Freud makes such bits.

Pass this on to whoever might be interested.

"PDQ" wrote in message
news Yup. That's why I never could figure out why I would want one.


That's the only way I could find them in 1/8". And only iwth 1/4" shank