Norm takes his time and nearly always works carefully and thoughtfully.
Has anybody seen that guy that demonstrates the Oldham Signature TS
blades at The Woodworking Shows? He works without a splitter, fine, but
he also seems to take delight in seeing how close he can come to the
blade when he picks up his cutoffs, all the while talking, kidding the
women, and retrieving the stick he passed around.

I dunno, but he seems to be a poster boy for "familiarity breeds
contempt." I shudder every time I watch him. One of these days...

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

"Vince Heuring" wrote in message
om...

Norm takes his time and nearly always works carefully and thoughtfully.
Has anybody seen that guy that demonstrates the Oldham Signature TS
blades at The Woodworking Shows? He works without a splitter, fine, but
he also seems to take delight in seeing how close he can come to the
blade when he picks up his cutoffs, all the while talking, kidding the
women, and retrieving the stick he passed around.

Yeah, have you noticed the short booards that he uses also??? IIRC he also
advises adjusting the fence out .005" at the back side of the blade. That
works OK for short pieces but on a long rip, the waste side starts to drag
against the blade. It is a lot of smoke and mirrors.

On Sun 21 Nov 2004 03:31:09p, "Leon"
wrote in . com:

IIRC he also
advises adjusting the fence out .005" at the back side of the blade.
That works OK for short pieces but on a long rip, the waste side
starts to drag against the blade. It is a lot of smoke and mirrors.

A while back I was spending an evening just browsing the Q&A section of the
New Yankee website. Someone asked if they should do that.

The website answer was "The fence should always be absolutely parallel to
the blade. Always."

"Dan" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun 21 Nov 2004 03:31:09p, "Leon"
wrote in . com:

IIRC he also
advises adjusting the fence out .005" at the back side of the blade.
That works OK for short pieces but on a long rip, the waste side
starts to drag against the blade. It is a lot of smoke and mirrors.

A while back I was spending an evening just browsing the Q&A section of
the
New Yankee website. Someone asked if they should do that.

The website answer was "The fence should always be absolutely parallel to
the blade. Always."

That is the way mine stays.

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:21:23 -0700, Vince Heuring

wrote:

I was more interested in the way he demonstrates Oldham's saw blade. First
he
sliced a piece of 5" high wood, turned it upside down to finished the cut
and
both pieces' show no sign of saw marks.


What do you bet that a) those blades are carefully checked for true and that
b) the arbor flange on his saw has been trued in place?

Alternatively, he may use a truing disk. But then again so do I...

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 01:31:08 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

The website answer was "The fence should always be absolutely parallel to
the blade. Always."

That is the way mine stays.

Mine might be. G

I have never used anything more than a combination square, a sharpie
and one blade tooth to initially set the fence parallel to the blade,
and wood to fine tune it. When the wood isn't burnt, marked, etc...
I call the fence set right.

If I start to see burning or blade marks, I tweak the fence adjustment
screws 1/16 turn at a time until I'm back to the result I want.

I honestly do not know if my fence is perfectly parallel or toed in
either direction in relation to the blade.

Barry

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:21:23 -0700, Vince Heuring

wrote:

I was more interested in the way he demonstrates Oldham's saw blade. First
he
sliced a piece of 5" high wood, turned it upside down to finished the cut
and
both pieces' show no sign of saw marks.


The piece that he resawed was relative short, tight? Smooth cuts are much
more easily accomplished on short pieces of wood. Not saying that he blade
is not a good one but he does not demonstrate on long boards which you are
likely to do.