Hi,

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

I need to often cut boards across 45deg. (not really a mitre) see my glasses
box! and occasionally rip long boards.

Ta

--
Cheers,

SB

"SB" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

I need to often cut boards across 45deg. (not really a mitre) see my
glasses
box! and occasionally rip long boards.


Do you have a tablesaw? If so, you make a taper jig for it.

SB wrote:
Hi,

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

I need to often cut boards across 45deg. (not really a mitre) see my
glasses box! and occasionally rip long boards.

Ta

--
Cheers,

SB

Got clamps?

Before getting a table saw I was able to do a lot of work with the jig saw,
"c" clamps and a few perfectly straight boards that I kept aside just to
use for this purpose. I got straight lines in place (regardless of the
angle) and then clamped the boards as needed to get the jig saw blade
against the pencil line. The clamped board kept the jig saw going straight.

I also kept a few scraps of thin wood to place between the "good wood" and
the "c" clamps.

Josie

So you all suggest table saw, any other options or should I be heading to
"Table Shop Store!"

SB

"SB" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

I need to often cut boards across 45deg. (not really a mitre) see my
glasses
box! and occasionally rip long boards.

Ta

--
Cheers,

SB

On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:11:39 -0000, "SB"
wrote:

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

Stop buying tools. Everyone does this, but you'll learn more and "get
there faster" by spending less on hardware and more on some timber.

First of all, get some hand tools. These are really cheap in
comparison to power tools, so you can just go and get them right now.
A cheap B&Q induction-hardened tenon saw, 22" panel saw, and a 99p
mitre block. Your Workmate works as a saw horse, on the low-foot
setting. You could also look at the cheaper entry-level Japanese saws
from Axminster, as a dozuki is often easier to learn to saw with
accurately than a tenon saw. Metal-cutting hacksaws, coping saws, all
have their place too.

Your default choice of saw, for the likely sort of project you're
making, is going to be a hand saw. Put down the jigsaw - they're
rarely that useful for typical stuff, keep it for sawing curves and
enclosed spaces out of plywood.

Don't buy a circular saw. You can't afford it ! For a really useful
saw you're talking £200. This would get you either a table saw like
the Axminster BTS10PP , or B&Q's similar version. For £100 you can
get a wide range of very nasty table saws that I wouldn't advise
anyone to get.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21657&recno=1

In bandsaws it's a similar sort of price break. There are many 9"
wheel diameter machines, but these are nasty, However there is one
machine, the Axminster AWSBS that's a usable machine for around £100.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21384&recno=1
With this, a good selection of blades, including some coarse ones for
ripping, and a copy of Mark Duginske's "Bandsaw Handbook"
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0806963980/codesmiths
then you have a capable powered saw that will do everything, including
ripping stock, that you might need for the moment. In a year or two
you might have a circular saw bench that's good for the big stuff, but
this bandsaw will still be useful for curved work.

Another option of course is second hand, if you see something.


So look at your budgets first. Work out what saws will really cost
you, in both money and space, and what all their accessories will cost
you too. Any saw is only as good as its blades, so you do have to
allow for getting a couple of different ones for different purposes.


How much space / budget do you have ?
--
Smert' spamionam

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 12:14:27 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:11:39 -0000, "SB"
wrote:
Stop buying tools. Everyone does this, but you'll learn more and "get
there faster" by spending less on hardware and more on some timber.

SB,

Tagging onto Andy's post to add two things.

First, since you're 13 and about to inherit 500 "favorite uncles" on
this newsgroup, start signing your first name. Calling you SB is
like talking to my boss. ;

Second, (and more to Andy's point), _please_ consider spending some of
your limited resources on some kind of woodworking education. Any
money you can spend to learn from a pro who's dedicated to teaching
his craft is going to be the _best_ money you will ever spend.
Promise.

Uncle Michael Baglio

"SB" wrote in message ...
So you all suggest table saw, any other options or should I be heading to
"Table Shop Store!"

SB

"SB" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

I need to often cut boards across 45deg. (not really a mitre) see my
glasses
box! and occasionally rip long boards.

Ta

--
Cheers,

SB


You might want to get a book such as "The Table Saw Book" by Kelly
Mehler. Alternatively, you might wish to consider band saws. "The Band
Saw Book" by Lonnie Bird or "Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske are
excellent reads.

These books will explain to you much of what you can do with these
tools and also provide information on how to make purchase decisions.

I would recommend Amazon.com for the books and also as a place to shop
for the tools when you decide to purchase. Their prices are very
competitive and shipping is usually free. Plus, they don't charge
sales tax. Even if you don't purchase through them, there is a lot of
other buyer's feedback on items. Going to a "Table Shop Store!" would
provide you with local service if that is a strong consideration for
you, though.

ET

On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:11:39 -0000, "SB"
calmly ranted:

Hi,

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

I need to often cut boards across 45deg. (not really a mitre) see my glasses
box! and occasionally rip long boards.

Now that I have one, I find myself reaching for the Japanese Ryoba
pull-saw more and more often. $26 delivered from The Japan Woodworker.
See their ads in most good woodworking mags.


--
The older I get, the better I was.
----------------------------------
http://diversify.com - Better Website Programming

Better Michael?

Sam

--
Cheers,

SB
"Michael Baglio" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 12:14:27 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:11:39 -0000, "SB"
wrote:
Stop buying tools. Everyone does this, but you'll learn more and "get
there faster" by spending less on hardware and more on some timber.

SB,

Tagging onto Andy's post to add two things.

First, since you're 13 and about to inherit 500 "favorite uncles" on
this newsgroup, start signing your first name. Calling you SB is
like talking to my boss. ;

Second, (and more to Andy's point), _please_ consider spending some of
your limited resources on some kind of woodworking education. Any
money you can spend to learn from a pro who's dedicated to teaching
his craft is going to be the _best_ money you will ever spend.
Promise.

Uncle Michael Baglio

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 12:14:27 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:11:39 -0000, "SB"
wrote:

I have a jigsaw, but it's awkward to use..

Stop buying tools. Everyone does this, but you'll learn more and "get
there faster" by spending less on hardware and more on some timber.

First of all, get some hand tools. These are really cheap in
comparison to power tools, so you can just go and get them right now.
A cheap B&Q induction-hardened tenon saw, 22" panel saw, and a 99p
mitre block. Your Workmate works as a saw horse, on the low-foot
setting. You could also look at the cheaper entry-level Japanese saws
from Axminster, as a dozuki is often easier to learn to saw with
accurately than a tenon saw. Metal-cutting hacksaws, coping saws, all
have their place too.

Looks like it might fit in with this thread- I've been digging around
for a dozuki style saw in the local places, and I've been running into
a lot of blades with blue teeth. I've had plenty of saws of all types
over the years, and I don't recall ever getting one that looked like
the teeth had been burned on a grinding wheel. Is this some kind of
technique I missed along the way for hardening the teeth, or are they
all (as I rather suspect) worthless pieces of Junk? I just want one
to hold me over until I've got the extra $$$ to get a really nice pull
saw, but there's no reason to get something that is just going to ****
me off. Any idea what's going on with all that bluing?


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

Prometheus wrote in
:



Looks like it might fit in with this thread- I've been digging around
for a dozuki style saw in the local places, and I've been running into
a lot of blades with blue teeth. I've had plenty of saws of all types
over the years, and I don't recall ever getting one that looked like
the teeth had been burned on a grinding wheel. Is this some kind of
technique I missed along the way for hardening the teeth, or are they
all (as I rather suspect) worthless pieces of Junk? I just want one
to hold me over until I've got the extra $$$ to get a really nice pull
saw, but there's no reason to get something that is just going to ****
me off. Any idea what's going on with all that bluing?


That may be the induction hardening Andy was talking about. Means you
can't resharpen the saw blade, but should have to, any time soon.

There was a recent thread on these, that Larry Jaques was involved in.
Best pull saw for $20 or something like that. In fact, you might ping
Larry, if you can't find it in Google.

Patriarch

On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 22:34:17 -0600, Prometheus
wrote:

Looks like it might fit in with this thread- I've been digging around
for a dozuki style saw in the local places, and I've been running into
a lot of blades with blue teeth.

Induction hardening. Good thing on western "toolbag" saws, but I've
never seen an induction hardened Japanese saw that wasn't rubbish,

Avoid the plastic handled Japanese saws too (Shark and a few others).
The handle fitment isn't tight and they have some "rattle" to them.
Ugly things to use - get a cheap wooden handle instead.

Japanese saws are basically unsharpenable. Sharpening them is much
harder than a Western saw and is not really a practical proposition.
If your saw vendor offers spare blades for a saw you like, then get a
couple -- they're never in stock for that same saw when you need them!
(Axminster tools, I mean you) If you're spending $200 on a saw, then
send it back to the _maker_ for sharpening. Maybe in California
there's a sharpening shop that knows how to deal with them, but not
around here.

Lee Valley sell the "feather" files for sharpening Japanese saws.
These are excellent and well worth having, but they're still no
solution for sharpening - it's just too hard. With effort you can
learn to sharpen Japanese rip saws (although I prefer a Western rip),
but the extra complexity of the crosscut tooth is _very_ hard work.
Most blunt crosscut saws are also damaged, rather than just worn.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 06:10:41 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

Prometheus wrote in
:



Looks like it might fit in with this thread- I've been digging around
for a dozuki style saw in the local places, and I've been running into
a lot of blades with blue teeth. I've had plenty of saws of all types
over the years, and I don't recall ever getting one that looked like
the teeth had been burned on a grinding wheel. Is this some kind of
technique I missed along the way for hardening the teeth, or are they
all (as I rather suspect) worthless pieces of Junk? I just want one
to hold me over until I've got the extra $$$ to get a really nice pull
saw, but there's no reason to get something that is just going to ****
me off. Any idea what's going on with all that bluing?


That may be the induction hardening Andy was talking about. Means you
can't resharpen the saw blade, but should have to, any time soon.

There was a recent thread on these, that Larry Jaques was involved in.
Best pull saw for $20 or something like that. In fact, you might ping
Larry, if you can't find it in Google.

That would be the Razor Saw for $25.95 post paid. The Japan Woodworker
at 1-800-537-7820. I didn't know the standard saw was for softwoods so
I ended up with the Gyokucho Ryoba #19.610.0. I'd have opted for the
#19.611.0 hardwood saw if they had given me a choice, but this saw
cuts beautifully. I took 1/4" off a 2x8 jarrah plank the other day and
wasn't even panting afterward. These are amazingly strong performing
and ergonomically comfy little saws. I've used it successfully on
pinewood, poplar, plywood, and jarrah so far, both regularly held and
overhanded*, and I heartily recommend them to each and every one of
you. They cut quickly and leave a shiny, baby's-butt smooth endgrain.

*By overhanded, I meant squatting in front of the vise with the piece
held at eye level, arm bent, hand by my head, saw blade parallel to
the ground and protruding forward from the bottom of my fist, pushing
and pulling the saw in (Ummm, what's the proper sophisticated term for
this? Ah, yes.) spear-chuckin' mode.


-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:20:55 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Quick correction:

Induction hardening. Good thing on western "toolbag" saws, but I've
never seen an induction hardened Japanese saw that wasn't rubbish,

Axminster's $50 ryoba with the dark handle and dyed rattan binding is
induction hardened (just on the crosscut side) and pretty nice. I
wonder if it's because it has teeth half the size of typical ryoba
teeth for a saw of that general size ?

Avoid the plastic handled Japanese saws too (Shark and a few others).

Vaughan's "Bear" range are the other rattly ones. Not quite as bad as
the Sharks though.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 22:14:19 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:20:55 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Quick correction:

Induction hardening. Good thing on western "toolbag" saws, but I've
never seen an induction hardened Japanese saw that wasn't rubbish,

Axminster's $50 ryoba with the dark handle and dyed rattan binding is
induction hardened (just on the crosscut side) and pretty nice. I
wonder if it's because it has teeth half the size of typical ryoba
teeth for a saw of that general size ?

Avoid the plastic handled Japanese saws too (Shark and a few others).

Vaughan's "Bear" range are the other rattly ones. Not quite as bad as
the Sharks though.

I had a Bear saw for several years, and it did some nice trim work for
me- alas, it chewed through a couple of nails in that time, and it's
ready for the junk heap now. Time to upgrade to Japanese steel now, I
think. Sounds like I should just stay away from the suckers at the
local Borgs and wait for the more leisurely pace of mail-ordering,
since every last one of them was "induction hardened" (Still looks
like an overzealous line worker sharpened them without coolant to me)

Thanks for the info!


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam