I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost BC
Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that blade
stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he undertensions
his blade too.

As for drift - he attributes some (all/most?) of it to proper blade tracking
on the wheel. When I change blades on my 14"'er - I spend a lot of time
aligning the blade. And I haven't seen the drift issues that others report.
So, my personal (in)experience could support his. I think he also downplays
the whole "co-planar wheels" argument.

One other interesting tidbit is when he mentions that the bandsaws he used
in European shops lacked the lower thrust bearing entirely.

My next project will involve more resawing than I've ever done in the past.
Might be a good opportunity to try his approach and see what my personal
results are.

patrick conroy did say:

I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost BC
Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that blade
stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he undertensions
his blade too.

I enjoyed that article too. I've yet to really use my Grizzly bandsaw
seriously, a little unsure of it I guess. I'm ordering some of the
recommended style blades, and have ordered the taunton mastering your
bandsaw video as well. Hopefully that will get me started.

I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.



--
New project = new tool. Hard and fast rule.

As the reason behind co-planarity is to align the crowns, it sounds like
he's endorsing it without knowing what makes his method possible.

"patrick conroy" wrote in message
...
I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost
BC
Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that blade
stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he undertensions
his blade too.

As for drift - he attributes some (all/most?) of it to proper blade
tracking
on the wheel. When I change blades on my 14"'er - I spend a lot of time
aligning the blade. And I haven't seen the drift issues that others
report.
So, my personal (in)experience could support his. I think he also
downplays
the whole "co-planar wheels" argument.

"patrick conroy" wrote in message
...
I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost
BC Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that
blade stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he
undertensions his blade too.

As for drift - he attributes some (all/most?) of it to proper blade
tracking on the wheel. When I change blades on my 14"'er - I spend a lot
of time aligning the blade. And I haven't seen the drift issues that
others report. So, my personal (in)experience could support his. I think
he also downplays the whole "co-planar wheels" argument.

One other interesting tidbit is when he mentions that the bandsaws he used
in European shops lacked the lower thrust bearing entirely.

My next project will involve more resawing than I've ever done in the
past. Might be a good opportunity to try his approach and see what my
personal results are.

I somewhat disagree with him that more horsepower is not necessary (maybe
his wife told him to say that) g. When I upgraded from my 14" to my
minimax 16", there was a noticeable difference in rewsawing power. Also, it
is very nice using an inch and a quarter blade for resawing. Not much flex.
Infact, I pretty much keep the big blade on there for everything that
doesn't require curves.

Also, I'm surprised he didn't bring up rounding over the back of the blade.
It makes a big difference imho. I also like to use Pam to lube the blade.
Very noticeable also. My 2 cents.
SH

In article , WoodMangler wrote:

I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.

It has always seemed to me that, since after ripping on the bandsaw you need
to joint the edge to clean it up, the total amount of material removed doesn't
differ noticeably between the bandsaw and the table saw.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 10:26:53 -0400, WoodMangler
wrote:



I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.

I'll grant him it's likely safer but I wouldn't consider it easier,
without building some surround table extensions (like I've seen on
DJM's 14") or "straighter".

[ I think that whole Jointer/Table Saw glue line discussion would be
different if it was the Band Saw instead of the Table Saw. ]


I've read/heard someplace that that's one of several differences
between the Euro style of 'dorking and the Amurican style: Euro-folk
tend to view the Band Saw as the heart of their shops; we focus on the
table saw.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:04:00 GMT, patrick conroy
calmly ranted:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 10:26:53 -0400, WoodMangler
wrote:



I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.

I'll grant him it's likely safer but I wouldn't consider it easier,
without building some surround table extensions (like I've seen on
DJM's 14") or "straighter".

[ I think that whole Jointer/Table Saw glue line discussion would be
different if it was the Band Saw instead of the Table Saw. ]


I've read/heard someplace that that's one of several differences
between the Euro style of 'dorking and the Amurican style: Euro-folk
tend to view the Band Saw as the heart of their shops; we focus on the
table saw.

I've found that the more I get out into the shop and actually
use the bandsaw, the less I use the table saw. The usage is
about even right now and I don't have anything in the way of
jigs for the bandsaw yet except a quickie crosscut sled. It's
time for a micro-adjust fence with stops.

The bandsaw cuts a quick and clean tenon. And I just ripped a 4'
tubathree down to 3/16 x 3/4" strips for my neighbor to mount
plastic over her windows. Once I ripped the piece, it went quite
quickly.

I like the Timberwolf blade but wish it had been welded straight.
It has a 1/8" bow at the weld so I get an aggressive cut if I'm
not watching it.

--
Like they say, 99% of lawyers give the rest a bad name.
------------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Lawyer-free Website Development

"patrick conroy" wrote in message ...
I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost BC
Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that blade
stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he undertensions
his blade too.

As for drift - he attributes some (all/most?) of it to proper blade tracking
on the wheel. When I change blades on my 14"'er - I spend a lot of time
aligning the blade. And I haven't seen the drift issues that others report.
So, my personal (in)experience could support his. I think he also downplays
the whole "co-planar wheels" argument.

One other interesting tidbit is when he mentions that the bandsaws he used
in European shops lacked the lower thrust bearing entirely.

My next project will involve more resawing than I've ever done in the past.
Might be a good opportunity to try his approach and see what my personal
results are.

Enjoyed the article as well. I'm having a bit of trouble believing
that low tension statement, though. I've always read that bowed cuts
are the result of low tension. Anybody out there used this method with
success?
As far as the tracking issue, I am able to set my fence paralel to the
miter slot on the table and cut straight lines with no problem, seems
to work.
Been using a 3 tpi 3/4" blade for resaw down to 3/32 with no problem
at max tension on my Delta BS.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:04:00 GMT, patrick conroy
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 10:26:53 -0400, WoodMangler
wrote:



I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.

I'll grant him it's likely safer but I wouldn't consider it easier,
without building some surround table extensions (like I've seen on
DJM's 14") or "straighter".

[ I think that whole Jointer/Table Saw glue line discussion would be
different if it was the Band Saw instead of the Table Saw. ]


I've read/heard someplace that that's one of several differences
between the Euro style of 'dorking and the Amurican style: Euro-folk
tend to view the Band Saw as the heart of their shops; we focus on the
table saw.



truism no. 437:
the table saw is the heart of the cabinet shop. the band saw is the
heart of the furniture shop.

Less kerf? Without a doubt. a thread elsewhere, I get a surface on
my rips that is gluable. (Is that a word?) I can't do that with the
bandsaw. I'm not ready to go with my bandsaw as my rip saw quite yet.

ymmv

bob g.

WoodMangler wrote:

patrick conroy did say:


I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost BC
Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that blade
stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he undertensions
his blade too.


I enjoyed that article too. I've yet to really use my Grizzly bandsaw
seriously, a little unsure of it I guess. I'm ordering some of the
recommended style blades, and have ordered the taunton mastering your
bandsaw video as well. Hopefully that will get me started.

I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.

Motor size. I've got a 14" Delta with riser block. It came with a
1/2 hp motor, used. I use Suffolk Timberwolf 1/2 x 3 tpi blades on it.
I pitched the 1/2 hp and replaced it with a cheap 1 1/2 hp found on
ebay. Worlds of difference. More power is better. Don't let anyone
kid you. I'm not trying to see how fast I can cram wood into the blade
but at a reasonable feed rate, the 1 1/2 keeps ahead of me and the 1/2,
I had a hard time trying to not overload.

bob g.

Slowhand wrote:

"patrick conroy" wrote in message
...

I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost
BC Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that
blade stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he
undertensions his blade too.

As for drift - he attributes some (all/most?) of it to proper blade
tracking on the wheel. When I change blades on my 14"'er - I spend a lot
of time aligning the blade. And I haven't seen the drift issues that
others report. So, my personal (in)experience could support his. I think
he also downplays the whole "co-planar wheels" argument.

One other interesting tidbit is when he mentions that the bandsaws he used
in European shops lacked the lower thrust bearing entirely.

My next project will involve more resawing than I've ever done in the
past. Might be a good opportunity to try his approach and see what my
personal results are.


I somewhat disagree with him that more horsepower is not necessary (maybe
his wife told him to say that) g. When I upgraded from my 14" to my
minimax 16", there was a noticeable difference in rewsawing power. Also, it
is very nice using an inch and a quarter blade for resawing. Not much flex.
Infact, I pretty much keep the big blade on there for everything that
doesn't require curves.

Also, I'm surprised he didn't bring up rounding over the back of the blade.
It makes a big difference imho. I also like to use Pam to lube the blade.
Very noticeable also. My 2 cents.
SH

I've tensioned my Delta to the settings marked on the adjuster. After
reading the article, I'm going to experiment but have never used the
"max" tension setting and my resaw cuts are pretty smooth.

bob g.

Gary DeWitt wrote:

"patrick conroy" wrote in message ...

I think it was FWW a few issues ago that expressed a preference for the
Woodslicer blade. This months issue will probably send a lot of traffic to
BC Saw (www.bcsaw.com). IIRC that same FWW article on the Woodslicer
thought highly of the bcsaw blades as well. The price difference between
the two brands is pretty large.

The author buys 1/2" 3TPI Starret blades welded/from BC Saw in bulk. His
advice is to keep a sharp blade in there all of the time - the lower cost BC
Saw blades make that more practical for shop owner. Says that that blade
stays in his saw almost all of the time. Interesting that he undertensions
his blade too.

As for drift - he attributes some (all/most?) of it to proper blade tracking
on the wheel. When I change blades on my 14"'er - I spend a lot of time
aligning the blade. And I haven't seen the drift issues that others report.
So, my personal (in)experience could support his. I think he also downplays
the whole "co-planar wheels" argument.

One other interesting tidbit is when he mentions that the bandsaws he used
in European shops lacked the lower thrust bearing entirely.

My next project will involve more resawing than I've ever done in the past.
Might be a good opportunity to try his approach and see what my personal
results are.


Enjoyed the article as well. I'm having a bit of trouble believing
that low tension statement, though. I've always read that bowed cuts
are the result of low tension. Anybody out there used this method with
success?
As far as the tracking issue, I am able to set my fence paralel to the
miter slot on the table and cut straight lines with no problem, seems
to work.
Been using a 3 tpi 3/4" blade for resaw down to 3/32 with no problem
at max tension on my Delta BS.

"Heart of" may refer to the number of free curves involved. Does your
reference have anything to do with the ultimate capabilities of the
machines or just to what kind of shop makes the most use of those
"ultimate capabilities?" I hope you get what I meant.

bob g.

wrote:

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:04:00 GMT, patrick conroy
wrote:


On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 10:26:53 -0400, WoodMangler
wrote:



I found it interesting that he does all of his ripping on the bandsaw. If
it's fast and straight, that would waste less wood due to the smaller kerf.

I'll grant him it's likely safer but I wouldn't consider it easier,
without building some surround table extensions (like I've seen on
DJM's 14") or "straighter".

[ I think that whole Jointer/Table Saw glue line discussion would be
different if it was the Band Saw instead of the Table Saw. ]


I've read/heard someplace that that's one of several differences
between the Euro style of 'dorking and the Amurican style: Euro-folk
tend to view the Band Saw as the heart of their shops; we focus on the
table saw.




truism no. 437:
the table saw is the heart of the cabinet shop. the band saw is the
heart of the furniture shop.

Robert Galloway wrote:

Motor size. I've got a 14" Delta with riser block. It came with a
1/2 hp motor, used. I use Suffolk Timberwolf 1/2 x 3 tpi blades on it.

I've got an old Sears 12" machine with a 1/3 HP motor. Using the same
blade you've got, I have managed to resaw 6" red oak and walnut. It
works, and gives good results, but it's really an exercise in patience.
Feed rates had to be kept down to a few inches a minute to keep from
stalling the motor.

It was fine as a proof of concept, but not something I'd like to do on a
regular basis.

"Gary DeWitt" wrote in message
om...


Enjoyed the article as well. I'm having a bit of trouble believing
that low tension statement, though. I've always read that bowed cuts
are the result of low tension. Anybody out there used this method with
success?

I'd guess he'd saw, if the blade is similar (3TPI, 1/2" deep gullets) then
you're feeding too fast.
I tried the low-tension Timberwolfs and didn't get bowing. But I do like the
WoodSlicer better (for me at least).

truism no. 437:
the table saw is the heart of the cabinet shop. the band saw is the
heart of the furniture shop.



"Heart of" may refer to the number of free curves involved. Does your
reference have anything to do with the ultimate capabilities of the
machines or just to what kind of shop makes the most use of those
"ultimate capabilities?" I hope you get what I meant.

bob g.

unless the style of furniture you're making is all straight lines (and
even then, sometimes) the bandsaw will get more uptime than the table
saw when the stock being cut is heavy dimensional solid wood. curves
are a big factor, but also are depth of cut and the ability to stop a
rip cut in the middle and jog over a bit then resume the rip.
sometimes hitting the grain just right involves cuts that aren't
straight and/or parallel with an edge. that sort of thing is easy with
the bandsaw.

modern cabinetmaking involves lots of cutting rectangular sheets into
smaller rectangles. hard to beat a table saw for that.

Relative term. Feed rate, thickness of stock, type/thickness of blade, even
orientation of growth rings play a role.

Slower feed rates which allow the blade to clear dust versus pack it and
start to bow against the resistance work with any blade. But I think some
blades are just better'n others.

"Gary DeWitt" wrote in message
om...

Enjoyed the article as well. I'm having a bit of trouble believing
that low tension statement, though. I've always read that bowed cuts
are the result of low tension. Anybody out there used this method with
success?
As far as the tracking issue, I am able to set my fence paralel to the
miter slot on the table and cut straight lines with no problem, seems
to work.
Been using a 3 tpi 3/4" blade for resaw down to 3/32 with no problem
at max tension on my Delta BS.