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drilling deep 3/4" holes
I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench
top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
"Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. Right after posting this message, I discovered Forstner bit extensions. They are expensive ($29 each). Does anyone have any experience with these? I am little skeptical of the two allen screws used to hold the Forstner bit in place in the extension. Bob |
"Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. Right after posting this message, I discovered Forstner bit extensions. They are expensive ($29 each). Does anyone have any experience with these? I am little skeptical of the two allen screws used to hold the Forstner bit in place in the extension. Bob |
I was going to suggest the extension but I think I would try the drill from
both sides approach. If you use a forsner bit in a drill press you can insure a 90 degree hole relative to the surface. Try using a small regular drill bit that will go all they way through. Let that hole be your index point to start both top and bottom holes. Test on a scrap.. Or Go as deep as you can with the forstner bit and finish the last half inch with a new and decent quality spade bit. Those bits tend to be long enough and when the point starts to come through the bottom, finish from the bottom side to reduce tear out. "Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
I was going to suggest the extension but I think I would try the drill from
both sides approach. If you use a forsner bit in a drill press you can insure a 90 degree hole relative to the surface. Try using a small regular drill bit that will go all they way through. Let that hole be your index point to start both top and bottom holes. Test on a scrap.. Or Go as deep as you can with the forstner bit and finish the last half inch with a new and decent quality spade bit. Those bits tend to be long enough and when the point starts to come through the bottom, finish from the bottom side to reduce tear out. "Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
In article . net,
Bob wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Well, I just got the new MLCS catalog. In it is an 'extender' for Forstner bits. gives another 3" of shaft length. Crowbar not needed for the wallet, they're all of $8.95 qty 1, ($6.95 ea, for 2 or more) item # 9270. |
In article . net,
Bob wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Well, I just got the new MLCS catalog. In it is an 'extender' for Forstner bits. gives another 3" of shaft length. Crowbar not needed for the wallet, they're all of $8.95 qty 1, ($6.95 ea, for 2 or more) item # 9270. |
I recently made a bench and did the same thing - 3/4" dog holes. I used the
following drill guide: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...urrency=1&SID= It's a bit pricey, but it was the only option for me to get the holes in the middle part of my bench (I made 4 rows of dog holes to use with the Veritas twin-screw vise). It worked extremely well. I used it in conjunction with a 3/4" auger bit after starting the holes with a 3/4" forstner bit. It wasn't really that tough. Mike "Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
I recently made a bench and did the same thing - 3/4" dog holes. I used the
following drill guide: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...urrency=1&SID= It's a bit pricey, but it was the only option for me to get the holes in the middle part of my bench (I made 4 rows of dog holes to use with the Veritas twin-screw vise). It worked extremely well. I used it in conjunction with a 3/4" auger bit after starting the holes with a 3/4" forstner bit. It wasn't really that tough. Mike "Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
Bob wrote:
"Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. Right after posting this message, I discovered Forstner bit extensions. They are expensive ($29 each). Does anyone have any experience with these? I am little skeptical of the two allen screws used to hold the Forstner bit in place in the extension. Bob I have one. Used it to drill 1" holes into a laminate of oak, walnut, and purple heart. Worked fine. Not sure about the allen screws in a hard use environment though. mahalo, jo4hn |
Bob wrote:
"Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. Right after posting this message, I discovered Forstner bit extensions. They are expensive ($29 each). Does anyone have any experience with these? I am little skeptical of the two allen screws used to hold the Forstner bit in place in the extension. Bob I have one. Used it to drill 1" holes into a laminate of oak, walnut, and purple heart. Worked fine. Not sure about the allen screws in a hard use environment though. mahalo, jo4hn |
I have to shim the benchtop Delta table to get to 90°, too much slop
in the hole for the pin. On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:11:17 GMT, "Leon" wrote: If you use a forsner bit in a drill press you can insure a 90 degree hole relative to the surface. |
I have to shim the benchtop Delta table to get to 90°, too much slop
in the hole for the pin. On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 14:11:17 GMT, "Leon" wrote: If you use a forsner bit in a drill press you can insure a 90 degree hole relative to the surface. |
I used a 3/4" Auger bit (fairly inexpensive at Lowes) in a 1/2" Hand held
drill. Worked great, but requires pretty firm control, since the bit is so aggressive. (Bench top was about 3" thick, laminated MDF) The lead screw tends to help drive a pretty straight hole, and chip out on the bottom was minimal. Once again - this is a VERY aggressive bit, so slow drilling speed is needed, along with a frim grip on the drill! Ron |
I used a 3/4" Auger bit (fairly inexpensive at Lowes) in a 1/2" Hand held
drill. Worked great, but requires pretty firm control, since the bit is so aggressive. (Bench top was about 3" thick, laminated MDF) The lead screw tends to help drive a pretty straight hole, and chip out on the bottom was minimal. Once again - this is a VERY aggressive bit, so slow drilling speed is needed, along with a frim grip on the drill! Ron |
I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob Check out the Forstner bits from Connecticut Valley Manufacturing (CONVALCO). The original manufacturer. Expensive, but better. Also longer. John Martin |
I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob Check out the Forstner bits from Connecticut Valley Manufacturing (CONVALCO). The original manufacturer. Expensive, but better. Also longer. John Martin |
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:10:59 GMT, "Bob"
wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob I'm sure that you'll get more knowledgeable answers, but I ended up using an Irwin 3/4" spade bit on my bench.. My neighborhood mentor said that forstner bits were for drilling shallow, flat bottom holes... and I was drilling hole through 3 1/2 of plywood and particle board, which I'd rather not use my good bits for.. also, my forstner bits are very short (aka cheap) and the spade bits come in several sizes, up to about 18"... I bought 3 because I knew I'd chew them up drilling all those holes... needed 2.. Mac |
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:10:59 GMT, "Bob"
wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob I'm sure that you'll get more knowledgeable answers, but I ended up using an Irwin 3/4" spade bit on my bench.. My neighborhood mentor said that forstner bits were for drilling shallow, flat bottom holes... and I was drilling hole through 3 1/2 of plywood and particle board, which I'd rather not use my good bits for.. also, my forstner bits are very short (aka cheap) and the spade bits come in several sizes, up to about 18"... I bought 3 because I knew I'd chew them up drilling all those holes... needed 2.. Mac |
"Rkola" wrote in message
... I used a 3/4" Auger bit (fairly inexpensive at Lowes) in a 1/2" Hand held drill. Worked great, but requires pretty firm control, since the bit is so aggressive. Well, I've gotten several good answers, including yours. So I ambled down to my favorite woodworking store to have a look at all the offerings and talk it over them, as well. I am assembling the benchtop in sections, so a drill press is a viable driver and certainly my preferred approach for accuracy. They had an option that I did not see mentioned here. Its a 3/4" precision brad point drill bit with 1/2" shank. It will drill to a depth of 6 1/2". I decided to give it a go. It was $18.00. I'll let you guys know how it works out. Bob |
"Rkola" wrote in message
... I used a 3/4" Auger bit (fairly inexpensive at Lowes) in a 1/2" Hand held drill. Worked great, but requires pretty firm control, since the bit is so aggressive. Well, I've gotten several good answers, including yours. So I ambled down to my favorite woodworking store to have a look at all the offerings and talk it over them, as well. I am assembling the benchtop in sections, so a drill press is a viable driver and certainly my preferred approach for accuracy. They had an option that I did not see mentioned here. Its a 3/4" precision brad point drill bit with 1/2" shank. It will drill to a depth of 6 1/2". I decided to give it a go. It was $18.00. I'll let you guys know how it works out. Bob |
I have some Woodeater bits from HD or L.
They have a powerful leadscrew and a cutting face much like an wuger bit. I'd start with the Forstner or brad point and then use the Woodeater. They cut well and pull themselves along. Actually, they pull so well you usually can't back up, so go all the way in one cut and then take ite shank out of the chuck. I used them for the holes fo relectric wire and pipes in my house. The only trouble is that hitting a nail costs $6! Wilson "Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
I have some Woodeater bits from HD or L.
They have a powerful leadscrew and a cutting face much like an wuger bit. I'd start with the Forstner or brad point and then use the Woodeater. They cut well and pull themselves along. Actually, they pull so well you usually can't back up, so go all the way in one cut and then take ite shank out of the chuck. I used them for the holes fo relectric wire and pipes in my house. The only trouble is that hitting a nail costs $6! Wilson "Bob" wrote in message ink.net... I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob |
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:10:59 GMT, "Bob"
wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob A drill guide with your corded hand drill and a spade bit. Clamp the drill guide to the bench. Every inch or so, clean out the hole with a shop vac hose. A new spade bit is inexpensive and sharp. |
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 11:10:59 GMT, "Bob"
wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'm sure some will suggest drilling part way, than flipping over and drilling from the other side. I don't feel that's a very precise operation, but if you have a technique to do it, I am all ears. Bob A drill guide with your corded hand drill and a spade bit. Clamp the drill guide to the bench. Every inch or so, clean out the hole with a shop vac hose. A new spade bit is inexpensive and sharp. |
"Bob" wrote in message link.net...
Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. That's what I did. You might be surprised at how easy and satisfying it is. The one I used belonged to my father. Dick Durbin |
"Bob" wrote in message link.net...
Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. That's what I did. You might be surprised at how easy and satisfying it is. The one I used belonged to my father. Dick Durbin |
"JMartin957" wrote in message ... Check out the Forstner bits from Connecticut Valley Manufacturing (CONVALCO). The original manufacturer. Expensive, but better. Also longer. Excellent suggestion, John. It looks like they could handle a 4" deep cut. Bob |
"JMartin957" wrote in message ... Check out the Forstner bits from Connecticut Valley Manufacturing (CONVALCO). The original manufacturer. Expensive, but better. Also longer. Excellent suggestion, John. It looks like they could handle a 4" deep cut. Bob |
Actually a drill press can be pretty handy for this - I did the dog
holes on a 2' x 6' x 2 3/4" maple top I picked up a while back. Pondered on how to get it up onto my dril press table, then realized that I could work on the floor instead. Put a 2 x 6 under each end of the bench top (clamped to the top) so it would clear the base of the drill press (I used a nice old Delta Homecraft benchtop I have, but could have done the same with my floor mounted drill press - in either case you will have to take the table off, and lower the head down close to the floor). I used a 3/4" brad point drill and got nice clean holes (I did back them up with a board to prevent tear out when the drill came through). Just kept sliding the bench top along and getting each hole centered - the weight of the top kept it from moving once I started drilling. If you could not drill deep enough, the hole you have started will serve as a guide to finishing it with a brace and auger bit - again, you will need to back up the hole to prevent tear out. In any case bringing the drill press to the work this way provided a good solution - not too obvious to me at first, but once the light went on, I think there are other places where it will be helpful. Stephen |
Bob wrote:
I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'd create the 2 1/2 holes with your forstener, the continue with a 3/4" auger in a brace. The brace and auger should be obtinable "for cheap" at any flea market or yard sale. Make sure the auger is in good shape. The "normal" trick for high quality work with a brace auger is to drill until the lead screw comes out on the far side, and then re-enter the lead into this hole from the other side. In this way the "face" is cut cleanly but the nickers at the edge of the auger, eliminating tearing or splitting. BugBear |
"Spoefish" wrote in message om... Pondered on how to get it up onto my dril press table, then realized that I could work on the floor instead. Put a 2 x 6 under each end of the bench top (clamped to the top) so it would clear the base of the drill press (I used a nice old Delta Homecraft benchtop I have, but could have done the same with my floor mounted drill press - in either case you will have to take the table off, and lower the head down close to the floor). That sounds like a good approach, except I can't figure out how to lower the head on my Jet Floor model drill press. I don't think its possible on many drill presses. My benchtop is assembled in pieces so I don't have to get the whole thing up on the drill press. My plan is to set it on the table with side supporting stands (Probably my Rockler roller bearing stands). I was please to hear that someone had used the brad point drill bit. I just bought one. Bob |
"bugbear" wrote in message ... I'd create the 2 1/2 holes with your forstener, the continue with a 3/4" auger in a brace. The brace and auger should be obtinable "for cheap" at any flea market or yard sale. Make sure the auger is in good shape. I never thought about buying one at a flea market. In fact I've never shopped there before. We have a huge flea market in my area. I think I'll head there this weekend and see what I can find. Bob |
bugbear wrote in message ...
Bob wrote: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. My preferred approach would be my drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit. The bits I have will barely hand 2 1/2" depth. I need suggestions for the deeper hole. Right now, I'm looking at buying a good old fashioned Brace and bit. I'd create the 2 1/2 holes with your forstener, the continue with a 3/4" auger in a brace. The brace and auger should be obtinable "for cheap" at any flea market or yard sale. Make sure the auger is in good shape. Maybe I'm missing something here but why the insistence on using a Forstner bit on a through hole? Why not just use an auger bit (manual or powered) for the entire length of the hole? Maybe clamp a piece of scrap on the other side to minimize blowout or BugBear's suggestion.... The "normal" trick for high quality work with a brace auger is to drill until the lead screw comes out on the far side, and then re-enter the lead into this hole from the other side. To make things easier, a bit gauge or piece of tape wrapped around the auger bit can be used so you know when to stop boring. In this way the "face" is cut cleanly but the nickers at the edge of the auger, eliminating tearing or splitting. BugBear Cheers, Mike |
Bob writes: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. snip A brace and a ships auger. Lew |
"Mike" wrote in message om... Maybe I'm missing something here but why the insistence on using a Forstner bit on a through hole? Insistence? I'm open to all kinds of suggestions. I just happened to have Forstner bit and was familiar with its high quality cuts using a drill press. Auger bit was suggested several times and its a good idea. I happened to find a 3/4" brad drill bit and decided to use that. Bob |
"Bob" wrote in message nk.net...
"Mike" wrote in message om... Maybe I'm missing something here but why the insistence on using a Forstner bit on a through hole? Insistence? I didn't mean it particularly to you Bob. I was just wondering why most of the follow-ups provided ways to bore a deeper hole with a Forstner rather than suggesting that you can accomplish the task with a plain ole' auger bit (or brad point bit as you describe below). Since many of the posters are more experienced wooddorkers than myself, I thought that I might have not understood the problem correctly, hence the preface clause in my question above. I'm open to all kinds of suggestions. I just happened to have Forstner bit and was familiar with its high quality cuts using a drill press. Auger bit was suggested several times and its a good idea. I happened to find a 3/4" brad drill bit and decided to use that. I think that should work fine. Good luck and please let us know how the bench turns out. Cheers, Mike |
"Mike" wrote in message om... I think that should work fine. Good luck and please let us know how the bench turns out. Thanks, Mike. One of the things I have learned in my short experience as a woodworker is that there are usually at least two good ways to accomplish a goal and perhaps one of those can be done without buying another tool. Unfortunately, getting by without buying something rarely happens. Bob |
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message hlink.net...
Bob writes: I want to drill several 3/4" holes for bench dogs in a laminated workbench top (prior to assembly) that will be 3 inches thick. snip A brace and a ships auger. Lew Hi, Lew. what, if any, is the difference between a ships auger and any other kind of auger? I found pictures of ship auger bits on EBay, the spiral part (flute?) looks thicker along the bits cutting axis than some others I've seen, is that the only difference? How about the tool that drives it, the shank looks hexagonal. Will it fit in a brace and bit? Tia. |
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