In routering out a slot radius with a 7/8" core box bit, how deep would you
recommend to remove in one pass...
ie 1/8" 1/4", 1/2" or all of it. Wood would be cherry or mahogany. My plunge
router is 1-3/4 HP and is almost new and will use a new carbide
cutter. I have seen a video where the entire bore half was done with one
pass but don't know how big the fixed router was plus I think it
was a cedar blank.
-TIA

In article rs.com,
buck wrote:

In routering out a slot radius with a 7/8" core box bit, how deep would you
recommend to remove in one pass...

1/16 to 1/8.

Wood would be cherry or mahogany.

You want to move quickly to avoid burning. A deeper cut means moving
slowly, which means burning...

Dave Balderstone wrote in
tone.ca:

In article rs.com,
buck wrote:

In routering out a slot radius with a 7/8" core box bit, how deep
would you recommend to remove in one pass...

1/16 to 1/8.

Wood would be cherry or mahogany.

You want to move quickly to avoid burning. A deeper cut means moving
slowly, which means burning...


These are those native american flutes you're building, right? Make
yourself a simple jig to hold the work, so that mistakes don't draw blood.
A notched 2x4 will probably do.

Work safely. Take pictures. Share.

Patriarch

Patriarch.... I swear you are keeping an eye on me.... LOL
So do you think 1/16 to 1/8 is correct? I have advice for safe depth cuts
all the way up to 1/2" deep passes. Guess I will have to run some tests.
Can you explain your "notched 2x4 setup?" I was planning on making a jig
with clamps but always looking for a better and easier way.
-thanks


"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message
6...
Dave Balderstone wrote in
tone.ca:

In article rs.com,
buck wrote:

In routering out a slot radius with a 7/8" core box bit, how deep
would you recommend to remove in one pass...

1/16 to 1/8.

Wood would be cherry or mahogany.

You want to move quickly to avoid burning. A deeper cut means moving
slowly, which means burning...


These are those native american flutes you're building, right? Make
yourself a simple jig to hold the work, so that mistakes don't draw blood.
A notched 2x4 will probably do.

Work safely. Take pictures. Share.

Patriarch

"buck" wrote in
ervers.com:

Patriarch.... I swear you are keeping an eye on me.... LOL
So do you think 1/16 to 1/8 is correct? I have advice for safe depth
cuts all the way up to 1/2" deep passes. Guess I will have to run
some tests. Can you explain your "notched 2x4 setup?" I was planning
on making a jig with clamps but always looking for a better and easier
way. -thanks


Yea, what Dave said is correct about the depth of cut. Remember you're
pushing hardwood through a carbide bit spinning at 18000 rpm. Respect the
physics of that situation.

On the notched 2x4 thing: Looking at the tubafor from the end, think L-
shaped cross section, laying over on top of the piece you want to cut.
Then glue a push block across the end, partially closing up the rabbet.
What you're trying to do is get really positive control on the workpiece,
and keep your original equipment fingers intact. Oh, and no metal
fasteners, please.

You can make a jig with clamps, too, or instead. I just tend to make mine
quick, and disposable. If the jig gets used up making the part, no big
deal.

There's almost nothing I know in woodworking that someone else hasn't
explained to me. Independent discovery, while neat in theory, can leave
scar tissue. Creativity at the router table can come with a high price.

And it's always nice to learn something new.

Patriarch

I'm building a router table and am blessed enough to have 2 routers. One is
a small yellow black & decker 1/4" router. I think 3/4 hp. The other is a
2hp plunge router made by Ryobi. It has a problem in starting so I'm going
to have it repaired, BUT that still leaves the question of which router
would be best for the router table. Even though the smaller one is only
1/4" not both ¼ & ½" I'm leaning towards it. Because the Ryobi is a plunge
router and is variable speed. My thinking is that it would be more
functional as a handheld then it would be in a fixed base usage.

Any thoughts?


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Buck, As I understand this, you are routing two grooves and then sandwiching
them together to end up with a round hole running the length of the wood,
creating a flute. Should this be the case, burning is not a big issue.
(Note: Cherry burns very easily.) You could make a deeper cuts, 1/4" first
and second then finish with 1/16" finish cuts.

This process is much easier on a router table but with Patriarch's plan it
will work fine.
Absent a router table, you might consider hogging most of the slot out with
a dado blade in your TS and finishing with the router.

Dave




"buck" wrote in message
rvers.com...
Patriarch....... I am convinced that you know what you are talking about.
I
will learn from your experience. I will be using a plunge router so I
will
be pushing a router through wood using two hands as compared to pushing
wood
through the router. Seems safer to me..... but then again I could be
wrong.
Thanks again!


"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message
...
"buck" wrote in
ervers.com:

Patriarch.... I swear you are keeping an eye on me.... LOL
So do you think 1/16 to 1/8 is correct? I have advice for safe depth
cuts all the way up to 1/2" deep passes. Guess I will have to run
some tests. Can you explain your "notched 2x4 setup?" I was planning
on making a jig with clamps but always looking for a better and easier
way. -thanks


Yea, what Dave said is correct about the depth of cut. Remember you're
pushing hardwood through a carbide bit spinning at 18000 rpm. Respect
the
physics of that situation.

On the notched 2x4 thing: Looking at the tubafor from the end, think L-
shaped cross section, laying over on top of the piece you want to cut.
Then glue a push block across the end, partially closing up the rabbet.
What you're trying to do is get really positive control on the
workpiece,
and keep your original equipment fingers intact. Oh, and no metal
fasteners, please.

You can make a jig with clamps, too, or instead. I just tend to make
mine
quick, and disposable. If the jig gets used up making the part, no big
deal.

There's almost nothing I know in woodworking that someone else hasn't
explained to me. Independent discovery, while neat in theory, can leave
scar tissue. Creativity at the router table can come with a high price.

And it's always nice to learn something new.

Patriarch

If you attach the plunge router to a removable base that's flush-mounted in
your router table, you can easily remove it for hand-held use, and you'll
have the added benefit of a large, rectangular base. Think about it. It
works great!

--
Kevin
-=#=-

"Troy Hall" wrote in message
nk.net...
I'm building a router table and am blessed enough to have 2 routers. One
is
a small yellow black & decker 1/4" router. I think 3/4 hp. The other is
a
2hp plunge router made by Ryobi. It has a problem in starting so I'm
going
to have it repaired, BUT that still leaves the question of which router
would be best for the router table. Even though the smaller one is only
1/4" not both ¼ & ½" I'm leaning towards it. Because the Ryobi is a
plunge
router and is variable speed. My thinking is that it would be more
functional as a handheld then it would be in a fixed base usage.

Any thoughts?


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.760 / Virus Database: 509 - Release Date: 9/10/2004

Dave Balderstone wrote in
tone.ca:

In article rs.com,
buck wrote:

In routering out a slot radius with a 7/8" core box bit, how deep
would you recommend to remove in one pass...

1/16 to 1/8.

Wood would be cherry or mahogany.

You want to move quickly to avoid burning. A deeper cut means moving
slowly, which means burning...

This is a bigger issue with cherry, which burns essentially instantly,
than with mahogany. Also, cherry has a tendency to chip out/tear out/
do nasty things if you try & cut too deep (and the forces get too high).
Mahogany doesn't do that. So you could be a bit more agressive with
mahogany, if you choose.

John

"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message

These are those native american flutes you're building, right? Make
yourself a simple jig to hold the work, so that mistakes don't draw blood.
A notched 2x4 will probably do.


Unless you have access to a router table. Pushing the part along a fence
makes for easy and safe cutting. I'd take maybe 1/8" off.
Ed

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 22:01:29 -0600, "buck"
wrote:

In routering out a slot radius with a 7/8" core box bit, how deep would you
recommend to remove in one pass...
ie 1/8" 1/4", 1/2" or all of it. Wood would be cherry or mahogany. My plunge
router is 1-3/4 HP and is almost new and will use a new carbide
cutter. I have seen a video where the entire bore half was done with one
pass but don't know how big the fixed router was plus I think it
was a cedar blank.
-TIA


I'd take 1/8" each pass, preferably using a router table. A table is
safer and removes the sawdust better than you can do with hand holding
the router. Be safe.

Troy Hall wrote:

I'm building a router table and am blessed enough to have 2 routers. One is
a small yellow black & decker 1/4" router. I think 3/4 hp. The other is a
2hp plunge router made by Ryobi. It has a problem in starting so I'm going
to have it repaired, BUT that still leaves the question of which router
would be best for the router table. Even though the smaller one is only
1/4" not both ¼ & ½" I'm leaning towards it. Because the Ryobi is a plunge
router and is variable speed. My thinking is that it would be more
functional as a handheld then it would be in a fixed base usage.

Any thoughts?


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.760 / Virus Database: 509 - Release Date: 9/10/2004


In general you want the higher HP router (and larger chuck) as your
table router. You'll use the table router to handle larger bits that
would not be safe in a hand held unit. Try to get a fixed base for your
Ryobi. You should probably have at least 1 1/2 HP for a table router if
you plan to use bits larger than 1 1/2 inch diameter and work with
hardwoods.

TWS