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Finish for window sill
Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills
with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. |
Finish for window sill
On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote:
Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. |
Finish for window sill
On 4/22/2021 3:20 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. And to take this a little further, you say that you do not want to use a urethane finish. But then mention possibly using a polyurethane. Polyurethane is urethane with additives. If you do not want urethane, you also don't want polyurethane and or "poly" Urethane's and polyurethane finishes do not necessarily turn yellow over time. Oil based polyurethane finishes tend to yellow immediately and more so over time. Water based polyurethane finishes tend to be crystal clear and remain that way. Varnish is a relative broad and generic term for most any relatively clear finish including "shellac". Finishes that allow sun to penetrate, relatively clear finishes, will break down more quickly than opaque finishes, like paint. Paint does not allow UV rays to penetrate like clear finishes. |
Finish for window sill
On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 15:31:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 4/22/2021 3:20 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. And to take this a little further, you say that you do not want to use a urethane finish. But then mention possibly using a polyurethane. Polyurethane is urethane with additives. If you do not want urethane, you also don't want polyurethane and or "poly" Urethane's and polyurethane finishes do not necessarily turn yellow over time. Oil based polyurethane finishes tend to yellow immediately and more so over time. Water based polyurethane finishes tend to be crystal clear and remain that way. Varnish is a relative broad and generic term for most any relatively clear finish including "shellac". Finishes that allow sun to penetrate, relatively clear finishes, will break down more quickly than opaque finishes, like paint. Paint does not allow UV rays to penetrate like clear finishes. Had water based poly on the sill of a bay window, it of course had plants they were on 12 x 12 tiles. The sun exposed poly darkened or did the stuff under the tile lighted????? You could see the outline of the tile when we moved out. If it was my sills I would look for some Rock Hard floor varnish. But that may be a gone company. |
Finish for window sill
On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 19:48:50 +0000, no one wrote:
Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. The best one can do for something like this is spar varnish from a marine store, like West Marine. There are also deck varnishes that will do. Joe Gwinn |
Finish for window sill
On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 19:03:56 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote: On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 19:48:50 +0000, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. The best one can do for something like this is spar varnish from a marine store, like West Marine. There are also deck varnishes that will do. Isn't the only interesting property of spar varnish is that it's somewhat flexible (so doesn't crack and peel off spars)? |
Finish for window sill
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 01:23:23 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote: writes: On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 19:03:56 -0400, Joe Gwinn wrote: On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 19:48:50 +0000, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. The best one can do for something like this is spar varnish from a marine store, like West Marine. There are also deck varnishes that will do. Isn't the only interesting property of spar varnish is that it's somewhat flexible (so doesn't crack and peel off spars)? https://www.popularwoodworking.com/f...-spar-varnish/ https://thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/difference-between-spar-varnish-and-regular-varnish/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spar_varnish |
Finish for window sill
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Finish for window sill
"no one" wrote in message ...
Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Are you referring to the sill or the stool (i.e., on the outside or inside of the house)? If it's the sill I wouldn't expect shellac to last for even a year. If it's the stool refinishing shellac is a given. I'd be inclined to use a water based polyurethane on the inside and spar varnish on the outside. |
Finish for window sill
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 4:31:43 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/22/2021 3:20 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. And to take this a little further, you say that you do not want to use a urethane finish. But then mention possibly using a polyurethane. Polyurethane is urethane with additives. If you do not want urethane, you also don't want polyurethane and or "poly" Urethane's and polyurethane finishes do not necessarily turn yellow over time. Oil based polyurethane finishes tend to yellow immediately and more so over time. Water based polyurethane finishes tend to be crystal clear and remain that way. Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) Varnish is a relative broad and generic term for most any relatively clear finish including "shellac". Finishes that allow sun to penetrate, relatively clear finishes, will break down more quickly than opaque finishes, like paint. Paint does not allow UV rays to penetrate like clear finishes. |
Finish for window sill
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 13:13:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 4:31:43 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 3:20 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. And to take this a little further, you say that you do not want to use a urethane finish. But then mention possibly using a polyurethane. Polyurethane is urethane with additives. If you do not want urethane, you also don't want polyurethane and or "poly" Urethane's and polyurethane finishes do not necessarily turn yellow over time. Oil based polyurethane finishes tend to yellow immediately and more so over time. Water based polyurethane finishes tend to be crystal clear and remain that way. Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. |
Finish for window sill
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Finish for window sill
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618
wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:52:49 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 13:13:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 4:31:43 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 3:20 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. And to take this a little further, you say that you do not want to use a urethane finish. But then mention possibly using a polyurethane. Polyurethane is urethane with additives. If you do not want urethane, you also don't want polyurethane and or "poly" Urethane's and polyurethane finishes do not necessarily turn yellow over time. Oil based polyurethane finishes tend to yellow immediately and more so over time. Water based polyurethane finishes tend to be crystal clear and remain that way. Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow |
Finish for window sill
On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:52:49 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 13:13:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 4:31:43 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 3:20 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/22/2021 2:48 PM, no one wrote: Like an idiot I stained and finished our new wood window casing & sills with Shellac several years ago. Now of course the sun & exposure has pretty much taken their toll & I need to refinish. I don't want a urethane since that yellows over time. I was thinking about a pre-cat laquer or a water based polyurethane or varnish. Any preferences? I'm leaning to the poly. It will be brushed on. Unless you use an opaque finish like PAINT, the sun will continue to takes its toll on translucent finishes. And to take this a little further, you say that you do not want to use a urethane finish. But then mention possibly using a polyurethane. Polyurethane is urethane with additives. If you do not want urethane, you also don't want polyurethane and or "poly" Urethane's and polyurethane finishes do not necessarily turn yellow over time. Oil based polyurethane finishes tend to yellow immediately and more so over time. Water based polyurethane finishes tend to be crystal clear and remain that way. Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. |
Finish for window sill
writes:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow Watch out where the Huskies go, and don't you eat the yellow snow. - F. Zappa. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_L-xvaGfSmc |
Finish for window sill
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. Worse. idiot politicians warned companies to send people home early, just as schools were getting out. It got so bad that people abandoned cars on the interstates. Busloads of kids were stuck in the ensuing (not so) rush hour. At least one bus with lower-primary school kids was stuck on the interstate overnight. Can you imagine being trapped with a busload of 5-8 year-olds, overnight, without bathrooms? |
Finish for window sill
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ Worse. idiot politicians warned companies to send people home early, just as schools were getting out. It got so bad that people abandoned cars on the interstates. Busloads of kids were stuck in the ensuing (not so) rush hour. At least one bus with lower-primary school kids was stuck on the interstate overnight. Can you imagine being trapped with a busload of 5-8 year-olds, overnight, without bathrooms? Yeah, that made the national news. When we get 2" we call it "nuisance snow". |
Finish for window sill
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? Again, we have heat pumps so it makes no sense to have a whole-house system. We have two entrance panels (each 150A), which makes it even harder. Worse. idiot politicians warned companies to send people home early, just as schools were getting out. It got so bad that people abandoned cars on the interstates. Busloads of kids were stuck in the ensuing (not so) rush hour. At least one bus with lower-primary school kids was stuck on the interstate overnight. Can you imagine being trapped with a busload of 5-8 year-olds, overnight, without bathrooms? Yeah, that made the national news. 90% of the problems are caused by morons, of course. They can't even deal with rain. When we get 2" we call it "nuisance snow". When I was living in Vermont, we called it "night". |
Finish for window sill
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? To a certain extent, its a gravity based system. On the part that attaches to the main breaker, you can see a vertical slot and a rivet head. The part on the ganged generator breakers just below the main has a similar slot. Lets call them blockers. In the normal operating mode (main on) the blockers just basically hang on down as shown. You cant turn on the generator breakers unless you slide its blocker up, but you cant slide it because it hits the main breakers blocker. In order to get the main breakers blocker out of the way, you have to turn the main breaker off. Once you turn the main breaker off, you slide both blockers up and turn the generator breakers on. When you let go of the blockers, the generators blocker sits on the top of breaker and keeps the main breakers blocker up, preventing you from turning on the main. When you turn the generator breakers off, both blockers drop down and the main can be turned back on, but the generator breakers cant be. I have my panel set up such that the essential circuits are split fairly evenly across the 2 phases. The breaker map is not only labeled to show which breaker controls what, there is also a red G next to the circuits that I want on when the generator is being used. I got a great deal on a practically new 6250/5000 watt generator, which can easily handle my essentials. I made my own cord which was *way* cheaper than buying a ready made cord at the length I wanted. My generator lives under my deck, which is 6 off the ground and roofed underneath. All I need to do is start it up, run the cord to the inlet and start flipping breakers. |
Finish for window sill
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? Again, we have heat pumps so it makes no sense to have a whole-house system. We have two entrance panels (each 150A), which makes it even harder. Your turn to explain. Sure, 2 panels adds to the complexity, but why do heat pumps put a whole house system in the "makes no sense" space? Expensive yes, but certainly doable. Just ask Richard Trethewey. ;-) |
Finish for window sill
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 11:35:07 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? To a certain extent, its a gravity based system. On the part that attaches to the main breaker, you can see a vertical slot and a rivet head. The part on the ganged generator breakers just below the main has a similar slot. Lets call them blockers. In the normal operating mode (main on) the blockers just basically hang on down as shown. You cant turn on the generator breakers unless you slide its blocker up, but you cant slide it because it hits the main breakers blocker. In order to get the main breakers blocker out of the way, you have to turn the main breaker off. Once you turn the main breaker off, you slide both blockers up and turn the generator breakers on. When you let go of the blockers, the generators blocker sits on the top of breaker and keeps the main breakers blocker up, preventing you from turning on the main. When you turn the generator breakers off, both blockers drop down and the main can be turned back on, but the generator breakers cant be. I have my panel set up such that the essential circuits are split fairly evenly across the 2 phases. The breaker map is not only labeled to show which breaker controls what, there is also a red G next to the circuits that I want on when the generator is being used. I got a great deal on a practically new 6250/5000 watt generator, which can easily handle my essentials. I made my own cord which was *way* cheaper than buying a ready made cord at the length I wanted. My generator lives under my deck, which is 6 off the ground and roofed underneath. All I need to do is start it up, run the cord to the inlet and start flipping breakers. One more interlock operational point: The blocker for the main breaker can also be slid to the left once raised so it stays in place once the main breaker is off. (note the little horizontal slot at the bottom of the vertical slot. That allows the user to remove the panel cover, assuming the generator breakers are not on. That is a built-in safety feature of the device. One blocker or the other prevents the cover from being removed if its corresponding breaker is on. The panel has to be dead in order to take the cover off, although it can be re-energized once open. It then needs to be dead again in order to put the cover back on. |
Finish for window sill
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 08:35:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? To a certain extent, its a gravity based system. On the part that attaches to the main breaker, you can see a vertical slot and a rivet head. The part on the ganged generator breakers just below the main has a similar slot. Lets call them blockers. In the normal operating mode (main on) the blockers just basically hang on down as shown. You cant turn on the generator breakers unless you slide its blocker up, but you cant slide it because it hits the main breakers blocker. In order to get the main breakers blocker out of the way, you have to turn the main breaker off. I can see that now. I thought the pieces interlocked with each other somehow. They're held in place by the breaker handles. They just can't occupy the same space so on the breakers has to be off. Once you turn the main breaker off, you slide both blockers up and turn the generator breakers on. When you let go of the blockers, the generators blocker sits on the top of breaker and keeps the main breakers blocker up, preventing you from turning on the main. When you turn the generator breakers off, both blockers drop down and the main can be turned back on, but the generator breakers cant be. I have my panel set up such that the essential circuits are split fairly evenly across the 2 phases. The breaker map is not only labeled to show which breaker controls what, there is also a red G next to the circuits that I want on when the generator is being used. I got a great deal on a practically new 6250/5000 watt generator, which can easily handle my essentials. I made my own cord which was *way* cheaper than buying a ready made cord at the length I wanted. My generator lives under my deck, which is 6 off the ground and roofed underneath. All I need to do is start it up, run the cord to the inlet and start flipping breakers. That raises another question. My deck is ~8' high and the double doors to my basement are under it. Three sides of the basement/house surround most of the three sides of the (12x16') deck. I'd like to cover that area so it doesn't turn to mud under the deck (in a perfect world, a concrete pad would go there). I was thinking about hanging corrugated metal or fiberglass under the deck but could probably only pitch it about 1"/ft. What I'm afraid of is allowing critters, carpenter bees or hornets, in particular, from nesting between them. Any ideas? |
Finish for window sill
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 08:46:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? Again, we have heat pumps so it makes no sense to have a whole-house system. We have two entrance panels (each 150A), which makes it even harder. Your turn to explain. Sure, 2 panels adds to the complexity, but why do heat pumps put a whole house system in the "makes no sense" space? Gas or oil heat only require power to smallish motors. Heat pumps require electricity to *large* motors. ;-) Expensive yes, but certainly doable. Just ask Richard Trethewey. ;-) BIG generators. Both the pump and resistive heaters. |
Finish for window sill
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 5:33:02 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 08:35:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage.. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? To a certain extent, its a gravity based system. On the part that attaches to the main breaker, you can see a vertical slot and a rivet head. The part on the ganged generator breakers just below the main has a similar slot. Lets call them blockers. In the normal operating mode (main on) the blockers just basically hang on down as shown. You cant turn on the generator breakers unless you slide its blocker up, but you cant slide it because it hits the main breakers blocker. In order to get the main breakers blocker out of the way, you have to turn the main breaker off. I can see that now. I thought the pieces interlocked with each other somehow. They're held in place by the breaker handles. They just can't occupy the same space so on the breakers has to be off. Once you turn the main breaker off, you slide both blockers up and turn the generator breakers on. When you let go of the blockers, the generators blocker sits on the top of breaker and keeps the main breakers blocker up, preventing you from turning on the main. When you turn the generator breakers off, both blockers drop down and the main can be turned back on, but the generator breakers cant be. I have my panel set up such that the essential circuits are split fairly evenly across the 2 phases. The breaker map is not only labeled to show which breaker controls what, there is also a red G next to the circuits that I want on when the generator is being used. I got a great deal on a practically new 6250/5000 watt generator, which can easily handle my essentials. I made my own cord which was *way* cheaper than buying a ready made cord at the length I wanted. My generator lives under my deck, which is 6 off the ground and roofed underneath. All I need to do is start it up, run the cord to the inlet and start flipping breakers. That raises another question. My deck is ~8' high and the double doors to my basement are under it. Three sides of the basement/house surround most of the three sides of the (12x16') deck. I'd like to cover that area so it doesn't turn to mud under the deck (in a perfect world, a concrete pad would go there). I was thinking about hanging corrugated metal or fiberglass under the deck but could probably only pitch it about 1"/ft. What I'm afraid of is allowing critters, carpenter bees or hornets, in particular, from nesting between them. Any ideas? I used this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-SeaC...-Panel/3010589 I read/heard about critters, bees, etc. but I decided to go for it anyway. For a number of years I had it partially roofed (ceilinged, I guess) with semi-transparent corrugated fiberglass panels and when I took them down there was no indication of unwanted guests. I get nests behind my shutters and in a few other places, so I know I have wasps, but the under-deck panels haven't ever been a problem. I have a double beam that supports the joists and the deck cantilevers about 2 feet past that. I mounted a gutter to the inside of the beam and the panels drain into that and then to a downspout. For the floor, I laid landscape timbers perpendicular to the house 16" OC and topped them with 1/2" PT plywood. This is a storage area, with lattice panels along both sides and under the beam, so 1/2" PT is good enough for me. Other than some blowing snow, the area stays completely dry. Not enough snow to be a problem. The most interesting part was how un-level the ground was under the deck. When I started to put the floor in I knew I would have to dig a little to get it level, but I think it was something like 8" off level over a 16' area. Much more digging than I expected. Luckily it's all sand. The fun part was finding some small toys buried in the sand from when my kids would play under the deck. I found a bunch of pieces from plastic tea-party set. I sent pictures to the girls and I think they got all teary eyed. :-) |
Finish for window sill
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 06:28:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 5:33:02 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 08:35:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? To a certain extent, its a gravity based system. On the part that attaches to the main breaker, you can see a vertical slot and a rivet head. The part on the ganged generator breakers just below the main has a similar slot. Lets call them blockers. In the normal operating mode (main on) the blockers just basically hang on down as shown. You cant turn on the generator breakers unless you slide its blocker up, but you cant slide it because it hits the main breakers blocker. In order to get the main breakers blocker out of the way, you have to turn the main breaker off. I can see that now. I thought the pieces interlocked with each other somehow. They're held in place by the breaker handles. They just can't occupy the same space so on the breakers has to be off. Once you turn the main breaker off, you slide both blockers up and turn the generator breakers on. When you let go of the blockers, the generators blocker sits on the top of breaker and keeps the main breakers blocker up, preventing you from turning on the main. When you turn the generator breakers off, both blockers drop down and the main can be turned back on, but the generator breakers cant be. I have my panel set up such that the essential circuits are split fairly evenly across the 2 phases. The breaker map is not only labeled to show which breaker controls what, there is also a red G next to the circuits that I want on when the generator is being used. I got a great deal on a practically new 6250/5000 watt generator, which can easily handle my essentials. I made my own cord which was *way* cheaper than buying a ready made cord at the length I wanted. My generator lives under my deck, which is 6 off the ground and roofed underneath. All I need to do is start it up, run the cord to the inlet and start flipping breakers. That raises another question. My deck is ~8' high and the double doors to my basement are under it. Three sides of the basement/house surround most of the three sides of the (12x16') deck. I'd like to cover that area so it doesn't turn to mud under the deck (in a perfect world, a concrete pad would go there). I was thinking about hanging corrugated metal or fiberglass under the deck but could probably only pitch it about 1"/ft. What I'm afraid of is allowing critters, carpenter bees or hornets, in particular, from nesting between them. Any ideas? I used this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-SeaC...-Panel/3010589 I read/heard about critters, bees, etc. but I decided to go for it anyway. For a number of years I had it partially roofed (ceilinged, I guess) with semi-transparent corrugated fiberglass panels and when I took them down there was no indication of unwanted guests. I get nests behind my shutters and in a few other places, so I know I have wasps, but the under-deck panels haven't ever been a problem. I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-Poly...-Panel/3043807 I have a double beam that supports the joists and the deck cantilevers about 2 feet past that. I mounted a gutter to the inside of the beam and the panels drain into that and then to a downspout. For the floor, I laid landscape timbers perpendicular to the house 16" OC and topped them with 1/2" PT plywood. This is a storage area, with lattice panels along both sides and under the beam, so 1/2" PT is good enough for me. I'm not so concerned about the floor. The biggest problem I have is the rain running off the deck and splashing the Georgia red clay on the house. Red on yellow isn't all that appealing. Concrete would be nice to get big tools in there but that's not an every day thing. I'm only planning on a couple more (until/unless we move), if I can get them past the budget committee. Other than some blowing snow, the area stays completely dry. Not enough snow to be a problem. The most interesting part was how un-level the ground was under the deck. When I started to put the floor in I knew I would have to dig a little to get it level, but I think it was something like 8" off level over a 16' area. Much more digging than I expected. Luckily it's all sand. Mine is all clay. It might just as well be concrete. The fun part was finding some small toys buried in the sand from when my kids would play under the deck. I found a bunch of pieces from plastic tea-party set. I sent pictures to the girls and I think they got all teary eyed. :-) ;-) |
Finish for window sill
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 06:28:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-SeaC...-Panel/3010589 I read/heard about critters, bees, etc. but I decided to go for it anyway. For a number of years I had it partially roofed (ceilinged, I guess) with semi-transparent corrugated fiberglass panels and when I took them down there was no indication of unwanted guests. I get nests behind my shutters and in a few other places, so I know I have wasps, but the under-deck panels haven't ever been a problem. I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-Poly...-Panel/3043807 I have a double beam that supports the joists and the deck cantilevers about 2 feet past that. I mounted a gutter to the inside of the beam and the panels drain into that and then to a downspout. For the floor, I laid landscape timbers perpendicular to the house 16" OC and topped them with 1/2" PT plywood. This is a storage area, with lattice panels along both sides and under the beam, so 1/2" PT is good enough for me. I'm not so concerned about the floor. The biggest problem I have is the rain running off the deck and splashing the Georgia red clay on the house. Red on yellow isn't all that appealing. Concrete would be nice to get big tools in there but that's not an every day thing. I'm only planning on a couple more (until/unless we move), if I can get them past the budget committee. Other than some blowing snow, the area stays completely dry. Not enough snow to be a problem. The most interesting part was how un-level the ground was under the deck. When I started to put the floor in I knew I would have to dig a little to get it level, but I think it was something like 8" off level over a 16' area. Much more digging than I expected. Luckily it's all sand. Mine is all clay. It might just as well be concrete. The fun part was finding some small toys buried in the sand from when my kids would play under the deck. I found a bunch of pieces from plastic tea-party set. I sent pictures to the girls and I think they got all teary eyed. :-) ;-) |
Finish for window sill
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618
wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 |
Finish for window sill
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate |
Finish for window sill
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618
wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate That price at Lowes is ludicrous. That has to be for a case. Home Depot has the same product for $16.64 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-6-ft-Solar-Grey-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-158912/206166256 Note that it comes in other colors. That's not twinwall though. HD has twinwall as well https://www.homedepot.com/p/Falken-Design-48-in-W-x-96-in-L-x-0-3125-in-T-8-mm-Clear-Twin-Wall-Polycarbonate-Sheet-MW-CL-3-8-4896/316676646 |
Finish for window sill
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618
wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate Better, but still $800 ($500 shipping). How do the panels join with a watertight seal? |
Finish for window sill
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:58:11 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate That price at Lowes is ludicrous. That has to be for a case. Home Depot has the same product for $16.64 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-6-ft-Solar-Grey-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-158912/206166256 Note that it comes in other colors. That's not twinwall though. HD has twinwall as well https://www.homedepot.com/p/Falken-Design-48-in-W-x-96-in-L-x-0-3125-in-T-8-mm-Clear-Twin-Wall-Polycarbonate-Sheet-MW-CL-3-8-4896/316676646 That's more like it - $250 plus whatever I need to hang it. Not sure how to do it under a deck, though. My advantage is that it'll never hold any weight. It'll be pretty protected from wind too. |
Finish for window sill
On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 9:05:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 06:28:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 5:33:02 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 08:35:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:32:34 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:36:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:26 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:06:29 -0500, Markem618 wrote: ... Minwax oil-based Wipe-On Poly doesn't yellow. The can calls it "slight ambering". ;-) (Gotta love those marketing folk.) *Everything* yellows around here in the Spring. Ah yes the pines of the south. I comes out of the trees like snow. ...but don't eat the yellow snow We have Cottonwood trees in my area. We get late spring/early summer "snowfalls". Not as bad as this, but close. https://static.seattletimes.com/wp-c...29-780x413.jpg Not like that on the ground but this isn't unusual: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/pollen-from-pine-trees-coats-the-windshield-of-a-vehicle-in-news-photo/175868822?adppopup=true https://us-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.asthmacenter.com%2Fw p-content%2Fuploads%2FPine-Pollen-Plume-e1495119706845.jpg&sp=1619281098T1fb598c3188400440 0ab0f466e789d167fdebb11ff73fe992e3b17a514b44a54 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/watch-pine-tree-unleashes-huge-fluffy-pollen-cloud-180969048/ We get the yellow pollen on our vehicles, the Cottonwood everywhere - noses included - and I have to clean my gutters 3 times a year. If I wait too long in the spring, the helicopters sprout and I get a bunch of maple trees in my gutters. I may need to pay someone this year. Not sure when my shoulder will be able to handle a 28' extension ladder. Helicopters and leaves from maple trees in the fall are the worst. We had a maple overhanging our garage. They always fell after it got cold and I'd be out there freezing my ass off cleaning them out of the gutters. Fortunately, we didn't have any gutters on the back (shed dormer on Cape). Things like gutter guards, or whatever they're called, just make it worse. SWMBO gets all ****y if I get the extension ladder out anymore. She doesn't like the larger step ladders but the extension ladder sets her off. The worst years are when I have to hook a hose on my belt, climb the ladder and use hot water to melt the ice before I can get the leaves out. It's a good thing I put a hot water hose bib next to the garage right after I moved in. Didn't have that but did have ice. OTOH, we had a *real* snowfall earlier this week, 3" worth. It melted on the driveways/roads, but we had to take the snowbrushes out of storage. We had 2" a few years ago and it shut down the city for three days (named "Snowmageddon"). We lost power for three days. With electric heat (heat pumps) it got rather cold. I had enough of the cold weather outages, so a few years ago I bought a generator and put an 240V inlet on the back wall of the house and a manual interlock on the panel. Other than testing the setup a few times, I haven't had to actually use it. Probably never will. ;-) We have outages fairly often, though less so lately. The area is building up so I think they're adding redundancy into the system around here. It's not that there are none, but they don't last long.. We had a tornado come last month, about five miles from here, and we lost power for maybe a half hour. Neighbors on two sides of us have automatic systems. I don't see spending thousand$. I installed this kind of interlock. (not my panel). It prevents having the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. https://www.electriciantalk.com/atta...997-jpg.22490/ How does that work? To a certain extent, its a gravity based system. On the part that attaches to the main breaker, you can see a vertical slot and a rivet head. The part on the ganged generator breakers just below the main has a similar slot. Lets call them blockers. In the normal operating mode (main on) the blockers just basically hang on down as shown. You cant turn on the generator breakers unless you slide its blocker up, but you cant slide it because it hits the main breakers blocker. In order to get the main breakers blocker out of the way, you have to turn the main breaker off. I can see that now. I thought the pieces interlocked with each other somehow. They're held in place by the breaker handles. They just can't occupy the same space so on the breakers has to be off. Once you turn the main breaker off, you slide both blockers up and turn the generator breakers on. When you let go of the blockers, the generators blocker sits on the top of breaker and keeps the main breakers blocker up, preventing you from turning on the main.. When you turn the generator breakers off, both blockers drop down and the main can be turned back on, but the generator breakers cant be. I have my panel set up such that the essential circuits are split fairly evenly across the 2 phases. The breaker map is not only labeled to show which breaker controls what, there is also a red G next to the circuits that I want on when the generator is being used. I got a great deal on a practically new 6250/5000 watt generator, which can easily handle my essentials. I made my own cord which was *way* cheaper than buying a ready made cord at the length I wanted. My generator lives under my deck, which is 6 off the ground and roofed underneath. All I need to do is start it up, run the cord to the inlet and start flipping breakers. That raises another question. My deck is ~8' high and the double doors to my basement are under it. Three sides of the basement/house surround most of the three sides of the (12x16') deck. I'd like to cover that area so it doesn't turn to mud under the deck (in a perfect world, a concrete pad would go there). I was thinking about hanging corrugated metal or fiberglass under the deck but could probably only pitch it about 1"/ft. What I'm afraid of is allowing critters, carpenter bees or hornets, in particular, from nesting between them. Any ideas? I used this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-SeaC...-Panel/3010589 I read/heard about critters, bees, etc. but I decided to go for it anyway. For a number of years I had it partially roofed (ceilinged, I guess) with semi-transparent corrugated fiberglass panels and when I took them down there was no indication of unwanted guests. I get nests behind my shutters and in a few other places, so I know I have wasps, but the under-deck panels haven't ever been a problem. I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-Poly...-Panel/3043807 If aesthetics are a concern, don't use clear. It'll get pretty ugly when the dirt and debris stains the troughs. The fiberglass I used prior to the white was opaque, but you could definitely see all the crap that fell through the deck boards. This is the underside of the roof on SWMBO's garden shed, which is admittedly open to the sky, but when I had the same material under the deck, it looked similar. https://i.imgur.com/RPqS8Hx.jpg We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. We have squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, bugs, flyers, crawlers, slither-ers, etc. Maybe I'm just lucky but I've never had a problem. My extension ladder hangs on the wall of the house under the deck, right up next to the under-roof. The chipmunks use it to get from one side of the deck to the other - I hear them scurrying along the ladder when I go under the deck for something. Not once have I ever heard them inside the joist bays between the deck and the PVC. I can't imagine a critter wanting to build a nest in a place where rivers randomly start flowing. ;-) Maybe if some beavers take up residence in my yard, that could be an issue. I have a double beam that supports the joists and the deck cantilevers about 2 feet past that. I mounted a gutter to the inside of the beam and the panels drain into that and then to a downspout. For the floor, I laid landscape timbers perpendicular to the house 16" OC and topped them with 1/2" PT plywood. This is a storage area, with lattice panels along both sides and under the beam, so 1/2" PT is good enough for me. I'm not so concerned about the floor. The biggest problem I have is the rain running off the deck and splashing the Georgia red clay on the house. Red on yellow isn't all that appealing. Concrete would be nice to get big tools in there but that's not an every day thing. I'm only planning on a couple more (until/unless we move), if I can get them past the budget committee. Other than some blowing snow, the area stays completely dry. Not enough snow to be a problem. The most interesting part was how un-level the ground was under the deck. When I started to put the floor in I knew I would have to dig a little to get it level, but I think it was something like 8" off level over a 16' area. Much more digging than I expected. Luckily it's all sand. Mine is all clay. It might just as well be concrete. The fun part was finding some small toys buried in the sand from when my kids would play under the deck. I found a bunch of pieces from plastic tea-party set. I sent pictures to the girls and I think they got all teary eyed. :-) ;-) |
Finish for window sill
On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 10:19:31 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 06:28:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-SeaC...-Panel/3010589 I read/heard about critters, bees, etc. but I decided to go for it anyway. For a number of years I had it partially roofed (ceilinged, I guess) with semi-transparent corrugated fiberglass panels and when I took them down there was no indication of unwanted guests. I get nests behind my shutters and in a few other places, so I know I have wasps, but the under-deck panels haven't ever been a problem. I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-Poly...-Panel/3043807 PVC *can* be heavy, but these panels aren't. The 2.2' x 8' panels I used were something like 4 lbs each. The only reason I needed SWMBO's help mounting them was because they are so flexible, especially while trying to hold them up to underside of the joists. Weight was definitely not an issue. |
Finish for window sill
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:28:51 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:58:11 -0400, J. Clarke wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate That price at Lowes is ludicrous. That has to be for a case. Home Depot has the same product for $16.64 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-6-ft-Solar-Grey-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-158912/206166256 Note that it comes in other colors. That's not twinwall though. HD has twinwall as well https://www.homedepot.com/p/Falken-Design-48-in-W-x-96-in-L-x-0-3125-in-T-8-mm-Clear-Twin-Wall-Polycarbonate-Sheet-MW-CL-3-8-4896/316676646 That's more like it - $250 plus whatever I need to hang it. Not sure how to do it under a deck, though. My advantage is that it'll never hold any weight. It'll be pretty protected from wind too. Relative to the size of each panel , that stuff is basically the same weight as the PVC panels that I used. My panels were half the width, so half the weight. The corrugated panels are easy to edge seal - you just over lap them a row or two. Tuftex sells hex-head self-piercing screws with rubber washers that self-seal the holes. |
Finish for window sill
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 13:07:45 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate Better, but still $800 ($500 shipping). How do the panels join with a watertight seal? They sell that stuff, basically a batten held down by screws with weather strip gasket. Getting on top to do the work might not be the easy though. Hiring a basket truck might increase cost a wee bit. |
Finish for window sill
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 7:08:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 13:07:45 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate Better, but still $800 ($500 shipping). How do the panels join with a watertight seal? They sell that stuff, basically a batten held down by screws with weather strip gasket. Getting on top to do the work might not be the easy though. Hiring a basket truck might increase cost a wee bit. Basket truck? To attach the panels to the bottom of the joists of a deck? I'm pretty sure his deck isn't that high off the ground. |
Finish for window sill
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 13:20:30 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:28:51 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:58:11 -0400, J. Clarke wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate That price at Lowes is ludicrous. That has to be for a case. Home Depot has the same product for $16.64 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-6-ft-Solar-Grey-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-158912/206166256 Note that it comes in other colors. That's not twinwall though. HD has twinwall as well https://www.homedepot.com/p/Falken-Design-48-in-W-x-96-in-L-x-0-3125-in-T-8-mm-Clear-Twin-Wall-Polycarbonate-Sheet-MW-CL-3-8-4896/316676646 That's more like it - $250 plus whatever I need to hang it. Not sure how to do it under a deck, though. My advantage is that it'll never hold any weight. It'll be pretty protected from wind too. Relative to the size of each panel , that stuff is basically the same weight as the PVC panels that I used. My panels were half the width, so half the weight. The corrugated panels are easy to edge seal - you just over lap them a row or two. Tuftex sells hex-head self-piercing screws with rubber washers that self-seal the holes. I meant the other way (without capillary action sucking water up into and into the space). I found 12' panels so that wouldn't be a problem anyway. |
Finish for window sill
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 17:13:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 7:08:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 13:07:45 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 23:03:39 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:59:00 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:19:22 -0500, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: ... I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. Yikes! That's some expensive stuff! More than $4000 for the 12x16 deck. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNTUF-Suntuf-Bronze-72-inx26-in-10-pk/1002343982 The stuff I saw is here, not quite 4 grand either https://www.interstateplastics.com/polycarbonate Better, but still $800 ($500 shipping). How do the panels join with a watertight seal? They sell that stuff, basically a batten held down by screws with weather strip gasket. Getting on top to do the work might not be the easy though. Hiring a basket truck might increase cost a wee bit. Basket truck? To attach the panels to the bottom of the joists of a deck? I'm pretty sure his deck isn't that high off the ground. Eight feet. Fastening to the bottom of the deck may not be the best idea. How does the panel get supported? Aren't these things pretty floppy? It says to keep them out of the sun/heat or they'll get limp. It's on the south side but, of course, the deck would shade it. I was originally thinking about the fiberglass or steel panels. A few rows of screws in the middle of the panel should work. There is a rubber membrane and gutter system designed to go under Trex but it's incredibly expensive. https://trexrainescape.com/installation/ |
Finish for window sill
On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 13:11:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 10:19:31 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 21:05:25 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 06:28:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-SeaC...-Panel/3010589 I read/heard about critters, bees, etc. but I decided to go for it anyway. For a number of years I had it partially roofed (ceilinged, I guess) with semi-transparent corrugated fiberglass panels and when I took them down there was no indication of unwanted guests. I get nests behind my shutters and in a few other places, so I know I have wasps, but the under-deck panels haven't ever been a problem. I need 12' to simplify things but that doesn't look like a problem. I was thinking about steel or fiberglass but PVC may be lighter. This looks like a possibility too. Clear would allow me to see the critters under there. We have squirrels making a nest in our gas grill (hasn't been used in years) now. I wouldn't want them under there. Pvc can be heavy, could try Polycarbonate Twinwall if you want some what clear. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-Poly...-Panel/3043807 PVC *can* be heavy, but these panels aren't. The 2.2' x 8' panels I used were something like 4 lbs each. The only reason I needed SWMBO's help mounting them was because they are so flexible, especially while trying to hold them up to underside of the joists. Weight was definitely not an issue. They weren't too floppy to keep the pitch? |
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