Track saw or spindle sander
 

Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I suspect YOUR answer is dependent on what you do. If you are a shop woodworker making furniture, then the spindle sander probably, maybe, has more use since it would be needed for smoothing all curves, edges. Whereas, if you are a carpenter going from job to job, then the track saw might be more useful since you are frequently cutting plywood and maybe putting straight edges on lumber. And cutting off doors and/or siding. Not that you can't use a track saw in the shop to cut up plywood and straight line rip lumber too.

I already own a track saw, so I'd be more interested in the spindle sander for me personally. But that is me, not you.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/2019 12:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.



I have both, The spindle sander is probably the least used of my
sanders. Until you learn to use it it is easy to dig a little to deep
into a concave shape.
The track saw will put a straight edge on s2s lumber. If that interests
you.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I suspect YOUR answer is dependent on what you do. If you are a shop woodworker making furniture, then the spindle sander probably, maybe, has more use since it would be needed for smoothing all curves, edges.

Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves. Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.




Whereas, if you are a carpenter going from job to job, then the track
saw might be more useful since you are frequently cutting plywood and
maybe putting straight edges on lumber. And cutting off doors and/or
siding. Not that you can't use a track saw in the shop to cut up
plywood and straight line rip lumber too.

I already own a track saw, so I'd be more interested in the spindle sander for me personally. But that is me, not you.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

Michael writes:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Whichever one I happened to need at the time, I guess.

If I didn't need either, I'd probably save it for a future rainy day.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I suspect YOUR answer is dependent on what you do. If you are a shop woodworker making furniture, then the spindle sander probably, maybe, has more use since it would be needed for smoothing all curves, edges.

Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves. Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander. I think concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood. Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood. So an "S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for an "S"!!!

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 2:39:07 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards.. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I suspect YOUR answer is dependent on what you do. If you are a shop woodworker making furniture, then the spindle sander probably, maybe, has more use since it would be needed for smoothing all curves, edges.

Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves. Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander. I think concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood. Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood. So an "S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for an "S"!!!

I was "taught" to remember that the word concave contains the word "cave"
and a cave is something that goes inward.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/2019 1:37 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I suspect YOUR answer is dependent on what you do. If you are a shop woodworker making furniture, then the spindle sander probably, maybe, has more use since it would be needed for smoothing all curves, edges.

Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves. Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander. I think concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood. Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood. So an "S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for an "S"!!!




Yeah, yeah. LOL. Concave. I said convex twice, oops.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/2019 2:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 2:39:07 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I suspect YOUR answer is dependent on what you do. If you are a shop woodworker making furniture, then the spindle sander probably, maybe, has more use since it would be needed for smoothing all curves, edges.

Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves. Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander. I think concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood. Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood. So an "S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for an "S"!!!

I was "taught" to remember that the word concave contains the word "cave"
and a cave is something that goes inward.


Correct.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 13:57:39 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.
I bought my 1959 Yazoo Pro for $15 way back in 1988-ish. The previous
owner had just spent $65 having the carb and ignition gone over.
I blew up the 3.5HP Briggs engine back in about 2012? and replaced it
with a brand new 6.5HP Bolton Power Products CHONDA motor for $85 and
I've rebuilt the main spindle twice at a cost of less than $25 each
time. I've replaced the rear tires (20 inch BMX) and replaced the
sheet metal portion of the deck with stainless steel countertop that I
got for nothing.
Will likely outlast me at this rate.I likely have about $500 invested
including all the gas I've put through it - - - My lot is 1/3 acre.

I still have a 1957 Lawn King 19 inch mower too with the original
Lauson engine on it (Magnesium deck) and I have a Toro and a John
Deere that I've salvaged curb-side that are both over 25 years old and
in excellent operating condition (both alloy decks as well) I've got
to clear tose out this spring to make room in my shed - - -

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 3:36:43 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 13:57:39 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.
I bought my 1959 Yazoo Pro for $15 way back in 1988-ish. The previous
owner had just spent $65 having the carb and ignition gone over.
I blew up the 3.5HP Briggs engine back in about 2012? and replaced it
with a brand new 6.5HP Bolton Power Products CHONDA motor for $85 and
I've rebuilt the main spindle twice at a cost of less than $25 each
time. I've replaced the rear tires (20 inch BMX) and replaced the
sheet metal portion of the deck with stainless steel countertop that I
got for nothing.
Will likely outlast me at this rate.I likely have about $500 invested
including all the gas I've put through it - - - My lot is 1/3 acre.

I've had the same hammer for over 35 years. I've replaced the head twice and
the handle 3 times. Love that tool! ;-)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/24/2019 1:53 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:37 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift

[snip]


Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves.Â* Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander.Â* I think
concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood.
Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood.Â* So an
"S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for
an "S"!!!


Yeah, yeah.Â* LOL.Â* Concave.Â* I said convex twice, oops.

Don't two "vexes" make a "cave"? Oops, I guess I was thinking of three
rights making a left! ;)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 6:13:49 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 4/24/2019 1:53 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:37 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift

[snip]


Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves.Â* Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander.Â* I think
concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood.
Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood.Â* So an
"S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for
an "S"!!!


Yeah, yeah.Â* LOL.Â* Concave.Â* I said convex twice, oops.

Don't two "vexes" make a "cave"? Oops, I guess I was thinking of three
rights making a left! ;)

I'm vexed about all this...but I like caves.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 1:57:52 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.

Yes, sir. He has a Honda mower. The tires are worn, but the motor runs like it's 2006.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/23/19 12:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.


I recently got a Makita cordless track saw.
To day, I used it to cut down some bi-fold doors for a client who had
hardwood flooring installed that raised the level of the floor.

On one hand, I wish I didn't charge by the hour for this one. :-)
On the other hand, this thing is going to pay for itself 10-fold in
times saved on jobs priced per job.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 17:13:46 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 4/24/2019 1:53 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:37 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift

[snip]


Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves.* Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander.* I think
concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood.
Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood.* So an
"S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for
an "S"!!!


Yeah, yeah.* LOL.* Concave.* I said convex twice, oops.

Don't two "vexes" make a "cave"? Oops, I guess I was thinking of three
rights making a left! ;)

Two wrongs don't make a right but three lefts do.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/24/2019 9:38 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 17:13:46 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 4/24/2019 1:53 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:37 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:12:38 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 1:05 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift

[snip]


Actually a disk sander is best for convex curves.Â* Spindle sanders are
better for convex curves.


Guessing you mean CONCAVE curves for the spindle sander.Â* I think
concave is the inside of a circle, hole cut into a piece of wood.
Whereas convex is the outside of a circle you cut from wood.Â* So an
"S" has both concave and convex curves. And you need both sanders for
an "S"!!!


Yeah, yeah.Â* LOL.Â* Concave.Â* I said convex twice, oops.

Don't two "vexes" make a "cave"? Oops, I guess I was thinking of three
rights making a left! ;)

Two wrongs don't make a right but three lefts do.


Well, yeah, you could say that as well.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/24/2019 2:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 13:57:39 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.
I bought my 1959 Yazoo Pro for $15 way back in 1988-ish. The previous
owner had just spent $65 having the carb and ignition gone over.
I blew up the 3.5HP Briggs engine back in about 2012? and replaced it
with a brand new 6.5HP Bolton Power Products CHONDA motor for $85 and
I've rebuilt the main spindle twice at a cost of less than $25 each
time. I've replaced the rear tires (20 inch BMX) and replaced the
sheet metal portion of the deck with stainless steel countertop that I
got for nothing.
Will likely outlast me at this rate.I likely have about $500 invested
including all the gas I've put through it - - - My lot is 1/3 acre.

I still have a 1957 Lawn King 19 inch mower too with the original
Lauson engine on it (Magnesium deck) and I have a Toro and a John
Deere that I've salvaged curb-side that are both over 25 years old and
in excellent operating condition (both alloy decks as well) I've got
to clear tose out this spring to make room in my shed - - -


Buy aside from a couple of spark plugs and air filters, I have only
replaced the wheels.

You have to love stuff that lasts. ;~)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/24/2019 4:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 3:36:43 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 13:57:39 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.
I bought my 1959 Yazoo Pro for $15 way back in 1988-ish. The previous
owner had just spent $65 having the carb and ignition gone over.
I blew up the 3.5HP Briggs engine back in about 2012? and replaced it
with a brand new 6.5HP Bolton Power Products CHONDA motor for $85 and
I've rebuilt the main spindle twice at a cost of less than $25 each
time. I've replaced the rear tires (20 inch BMX) and replaced the
sheet metal portion of the deck with stainless steel countertop that I
got for nothing.
Will likely outlast me at this rate.I likely have about $500 invested
including all the gas I've put through it - - - My lot is 1/3 acre.

I've had the same hammer for over 35 years. I've replaced the head twice and
the handle 3 times. Love that tool! ;-)


The CPU does not seem to be aging well though. ;~)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/24/2019 8:26 PM, Michael wrote:
On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 1:57:52 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/23/2019 4:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 11:05:26 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
On 4/23/2019 11:53 AM, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

This time of year I'd buy plants and gardening supplies.

An understandable approach. However, for me, if there's an opportunity to buy a tool, I buy a tool.
How about a new lawn-mower then???



If he has a Honda mower, he probably does not need one. I just in the
past few weeks put new/expensive wheels on my Honda, $120.00 ish. I
bought that mower in 1987, paid almost $500 for it and hoped I was not
throwing my money away.

Yes, sir. He has a Honda mower. The tires are worn, but the motor runs like it's 2006.


2006???? Have you even burned a tank of gas yet? LOL

I was looking at the Commercial series before buying the wheels. Double
the price I paid 32 years ago but they use the same style OHV engine
with direct drive to the hydro-static trans, roto stop engagement lever,
engine speed lever, and self propel bar.
If it works, don't change it.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 9:25:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

I recently got a Makita cordless track saw.
To day, I used it to cut down some bi-fold doors for a client who had
hardwood flooring installed that raised the level of the floor.

On one hand, I wish I didn't charge by the hour for this one. :-)
On the other hand, this thing is going to pay for itself 10-fold in
times saved on jobs priced per job.

I am surprised to read that you would charge by the hour for something like that. Probably 25 (more?) years ago I decided to have develop schedules for different things I do, and it falls in line with other tradesmen like plumbers, electricians, etc.

I have a trip charge that includes one hour including material pickup. I will do all I can in an hour for the trip charge if I don't have to pick up material for a project, say door lock replacement, threshold installation, etc. where the customer has the hardware.

Otherwise, I charge by the unit. So for doors, I charge $25 a door to cut a hollow core to fit carpet. Minimum trip charge to drive out, set up the horses and remove the doors, cut them and reinstall them is $125. But with set up, I can only get two doors done, so a minimum trip charge would only get two doors. But if it is a house full, then with all the tools out and me on site, I can usually cut 3 an hour, working out to $75 an hour.

Different trades have different minimum trip charges, and as a repair/remodel/maintenance contractor I have all of them and charge them as well. Roofing around here has a minimum charge from a reputable company of $250 on an asphalt shingle roof and can include roof jack replacement, sealing a chimney, etc. Cement tile has a minimum of $375 and can include reseating tiles, sealing them, or caulking cracked tiles.

I have a plumber that works for me a lot and I charge just a bit less than a full time plumber does.

Using that method, when I price things out or develop an estimate, I can more easily plug numbers in or remove them as needed. I have found that the best thing for me is to convert anything I can to units (structured pricing that shows no favoritism between my clients that know each other) and then I know what I am going to charge if I get a quick phone call from a client or prospective client.

At any rate, it costs a certain amount of money to have a truck on site, keep the quarterly reports filed, buy/maintain/replace tools and consumables, keep all the paperwork straight and the bills paid, and on and on. The way I figure it, I am on the clock when the computer comes on, or the key turns in the ignition. I keep in mind I don't get all we estimate, but the expenses are ongoing.

Not reflecting on anything said or written here but only on my personal experience, as a cub contractor back in the mid 70s, I didn't understand the cost of staying in business and continued overhead that has to be spread over all the business you get while staying competitive. Overhead is the only thing in business that is constant (and taxes). That was a hard lesson. You can't pound extra money into a job because you haven't had much work lately, and it can't give away too much if the job is lucrative. It all has to work out over the year.

Ahhhh€¦. to know then what I do know. MIKE... seriously... go to minimum charges!

Robert

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/25/19 10:15 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 9:25:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

I recently got a Makita cordless track saw.
To day, I used it to cut down some bi-fold doors for a client who had
hardwood flooring installed that raised the level of the floor.

On one hand, I wish I didn't charge by the hour for this one. :-)
On the other hand, this thing is going to pay for itself 10-fold in
times saved on jobs priced per job.

I am surprised to read that you would charge by the hour for something like that. Probably 25 (more?) years ago I decided to have develop schedules for different things I do, and it falls in line with other tradesmen like plumbers, electricians, etc.

I have a trip charge that includes one hour including material pickup. I will do all I can in an hour for the trip charge if I don't have to pick up material for a project, say door lock replacement, threshold installation, etc. where the customer has the hardware.

Otherwise, I charge by the unit. So for doors, I charge $25 a door to cut a hollow core to fit carpet. Minimum trip charge to drive out, set up the horses and remove the doors, cut them and reinstall them is $125. But with set up, I can only get two doors done, so a minimum trip charge would only get two doors. But if it is a house full, then with all the tools out and me on site, I can usually cut 3 an hour, working out to $75 an hour.

Different trades have different minimum trip charges, and as a repair/remodel/maintenance contractor I have all of them and charge them as well. Roofing around here has a minimum charge from a reputable company of $250 on an asphalt shingle roof and can include roof jack replacement, sealing a chimney, etc. Cement tile has a minimum of $375 and can include reseating tiles, sealing them, or caulking cracked tiles.

I have a plumber that works for me a lot and I charge just a bit less than a full time plumber does.

Using that method, when I price things out or develop an estimate, I can more easily plug numbers in or remove them as needed. I have found that the best thing for me is to convert anything I can to units (structured pricing that shows no favoritism between my clients that know each other) and then I know what I am going to charge if I get a quick phone call from a client or prospective client.

At any rate, it costs a certain amount of money to have a truck on site, keep the quarterly reports filed, buy/maintain/replace tools and consumables, keep all the paperwork straight and the bills paid, and on and on. The way I figure it, I am on the clock when the computer comes on, or the key turns in the ignition. I keep in mind I don't get all we estimate, but the expenses are ongoing.

Not reflecting on anything said or written here but only on my personal experience, as a cub contractor back in the mid 70s, I didn't understand the cost of staying in business and continued overhead that has to be spread over all the business you get while staying competitive. Overhead is the only thing in business that is constant (and taxes). That was a hard lesson. You can't pound extra money into a job because you haven't had much work lately, and it can't give away too much if the job is lucrative. It all has to work out over the year.

Ahhhh€¦. to know then what I do know. MIKE... seriously... go to minimum charges!

Robert


I'm learning more and more and more, the more I do this stuff, about
what to charge.
And the more I learn about what to charge, the more I learn that I need
to charge more and more and more. :-)

I am, in fact, developing a set of charges for tasks, or unit prices, as
it were. I have minimum charges. For general handyman tasks, I have a
minimum home service visit fee of $75 which covers the 1st hour (that's
for local). After that, it's $50/hr.

This is for jobs where the client has a hodge-podge of things they want
done. Some of these things may be $70/hr jobs like electrical work.
Some may be $20/hr jobs like hanging pictures. Some may be $90/hr work
like plumbing. Some may, again, be $20/hr work like replacing outdoor
light bulbs.

When I have clients like that, instead of racking up a bunch of per/item
charges that might give them sticker-shock, I will usually tell them
I'll charge by the hour and remind them that I don't mess around and
waste time.

When I have specialty jobs or large, single project jobs like big trim
work or deck rehabs, door replacements, porch columns, storm doors,
appliance installations/swaps, etc., I do have set prices per job that
take into account my expertise and experience in doing these things, as
well as consumables and other factors involved.

For example, I recently charged and collected a fee of $750 to remove
and dispose of 2 toilets and install 2 new toilets in their place. I
may have had $25 in materials invested. Including travel time, I had
not more than 6 hours invested in the project. I made $120/hr on that
job, not including time spent chasing the lead and communicating with
the client.
I'll take it because as the saying goes.... it's a ****ty job. :-)

I had a deck job recently, where me and a partner ended up making about
$550 per day on the job (-8hr days). We had the expertise, the ability,
the efficiency, and came in around the market value for the job. Good
for us.

I routinely make over $150 to install (swap) ceiling fans. $65/per
light fixture swap. $175 min for dishwasher installation. $175-200/
mounted microwave installations, $300-400 shower door installations,
$150-200 for storm door installations, etc., etc., etc., all of which I
am getting more and more efficient at, which rewards me for my expertise.

So the reason I brought up the time factor with the bi-fold door project
was that I didn't realize how freakin fast that track-saw tool was and
how much quicker it was than the method(s) I would have previously used
to do that task.

I know, now, and will adjust my fees to reflect that.
It's always been a motto of mine that I shouldn't be penalized for
becoming efficient at doing something, nor should the client be
penalized for my brain-farts or learning on the job. So when I know
that I'm good at something and I know the fair market value for it, I
will charge a premium for my skill, knowledge, expertise and the value
of my work.

It just so happens, to my benefit, that in today's environment of
"skilled" labor... that my charge keeps going up and up and up.
As a mentor once told me... "If nobody's telling you you're too
expensive, you're not charging enough."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 19:21:24 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.
My old Yazoo cuts 24 inches and is self propelled. The 3.5HP engine
was sub-optimal - the 6.5HP Chonda is adequate.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 10:21:27 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.

If "it" cut a wider swath and had a bigger motor, it wouldn't be "it" anymore. It would be a totally
different model - the one you should have bought in the first place. ;-)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St.
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St.
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

I think officially I have the Honda HRX217VKA mower. And it only has a 21" deck! Now comes with a 200cc motor, but mine is 190cc. Guess even Honda has learned a little in the last couple years and put a bigger motor in their underpowered mower. And it has a plastic, nylon, polyester deck. Not steel like I thought. Its been 6 months since I last used it.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 5:42:48 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 10:21:27 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.

If "it" cut a wider swath and had a bigger motor, it wouldn't be "it" anymore. It would be a totally
different model - the one you should have bought in the first place. ;-)

Problem, sort of, is that I was fixated on a HONDA mower back a few years when I really needed a mower. A friend had one and I had heard they were quality. So it had to be a Honda. But 21" is the widest push mower Honda makes. And their 190cc at the time mower was the biggest engine they offered.. So my choices were kind of limited.

Kind of like if you wanted a 30" wide jointer. I think 20" is the widest you can get. Or a bandsaw bigger than 36". Don't think they make bandsaws bigger than 36". Or a table saw with more than 10 hp three phase. 10 hp is the biggest electric motor you can get on a table saw.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 00:01:52 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 4/25/19 10:15 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 9:25:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

I recently got a Makita cordless track saw.
To day, I used it to cut down some bi-fold doors for a client who had
hardwood flooring installed that raised the level of the floor.

On one hand, I wish I didn't charge by the hour for this one. :-)
On the other hand, this thing is going to pay for itself 10-fold in
times saved on jobs priced per job.

I am surprised to read that you would charge by the hour for something like that. Probably 25 (more?) years ago I decided to have develop schedules for different things I do, and it falls in line with other tradesmen like plumbers, electricians, etc.

I have a trip charge that includes one hour including material pickup. I will do all I can in an hour for the trip charge if I don't have to pick up material for a project, say door lock replacement, threshold installation, etc. where the customer has the hardware.

Otherwise, I charge by the unit. So for doors, I charge $25 a door to cut a hollow core to fit carpet. Minimum trip charge to drive out, set up the horses and remove the doors, cut them and reinstall them is $125. But with set up, I can only get two doors done, so a minimum trip charge would only get two doors. But if it is a house full, then with all the tools out and me on site, I can usually cut 3 an hour, working out to $75 an hour.

Different trades have different minimum trip charges, and as a repair/remodel/maintenance contractor I have all of them and charge them as well. Roofing around here has a minimum charge from a reputable company of $250 on an asphalt shingle roof and can include roof jack replacement, sealing a chimney, etc. Cement tile has a minimum of $375 and can include reseating tiles, sealing them, or caulking cracked tiles.

I have a plumber that works for me a lot and I charge just a bit less than a full time plumber does.

Using that method, when I price things out or develop an estimate, I can more easily plug numbers in or remove them as needed. I have found that the best thing for me is to convert anything I can to units (structured pricing that shows no favoritism between my clients that know each other) and then I know what I am going to charge if I get a quick phone call from a client or prospective client.

At any rate, it costs a certain amount of money to have a truck on site, keep the quarterly reports filed, buy/maintain/replace tools and consumables, keep all the paperwork straight and the bills paid, and on and on. The way I figure it, I am on the clock when the computer comes on, or the key turns in the ignition. I keep in mind I don't get all we estimate, but the expenses are ongoing.

Not reflecting on anything said or written here but only on my personal experience, as a cub contractor back in the mid 70s, I didn't understand the cost of staying in business and continued overhead that has to be spread over all the business you get while staying competitive. Overhead is the only thing in business that is constant (and taxes). That was a hard lesson. You can't pound extra money into a job because you haven't had much work lately, and it can't give away too much if the job is lucrative. It all has to work out over the year.

Ahhhh…. to know then what I do know. MIKE... seriously... go to minimum charges!

Robert


I'm learning more and more and more, the more I do this stuff, about
what to charge.
And the more I learn about what to charge, the more I learn that I need
to charge more and more and more. :-)

I am, in fact, developing a set of charges for tasks, or unit prices, as
it were. I have minimum charges. For general handyman tasks, I have a
minimum home service visit fee of $75 which covers the 1st hour (that's
for local). After that, it's $50/hr.

This is for jobs where the client has a hodge-podge of things they want
done. Some of these things may be $70/hr jobs like electrical work.
Some may be $20/hr jobs like hanging pictures. Some may be $90/hr work
like plumbing. Some may, again, be $20/hr work like replacing outdoor
light bulbs.

When I have clients like that, instead of racking up a bunch of per/item
charges that might give them sticker-shock, I will usually tell them
I'll charge by the hour and remind them that I don't mess around and
waste time.

When I have specialty jobs or large, single project jobs like big trim
work or deck rehabs, door replacements, porch columns, storm doors,
appliance installations/swaps, etc., I do have set prices per job that
take into account my expertise and experience in doing these things, as
well as consumables and other factors involved.

For example, I recently charged and collected a fee of $750 to remove
and dispose of 2 toilets and install 2 new toilets in their place. I
may have had $25 in materials invested. Including travel time, I had
not more than 6 hours invested in the project. I made $120/hr on that
job, not including time spent chasing the lead and communicating with
the client.
I'll take it because as the saying goes.... it's a ****ty job. :-)

I had a deck job recently, where me and a partner ended up making about
$550 per day on the job (-8hr days). We had the expertise, the ability,
the efficiency, and came in around the market value for the job. Good
for us.

I routinely make over $150 to install (swap) ceiling fans. $65/per
light fixture swap. $175 min for dishwasher installation. $175-200/
mounted microwave installations, $300-400 shower door installations,
$150-200 for storm door installations, etc., etc., etc., all of which I
am getting more and more efficient at, which rewards me for my expertise.

So the reason I brought up the time factor with the bi-fold door project
was that I didn't realize how freakin fast that track-saw tool was and
how much quicker it was than the method(s) I would have previously used
to do that task.

I know, now, and will adjust my fees to reflect that.
It's always been a motto of mine that I shouldn't be penalized for
becoming efficient at doing something, nor should the client be
penalized for my brain-farts or learning on the job. So when I know
that I'm good at something and I know the fair market value for it, I
will charge a premium for my skill, knowledge, expertise and the value
of my work.

It just so happens, to my benefit, that in today's environment of
"skilled" labor... that my charge keeps going up and up and up.
As a mentor once told me... "If nobody's telling you you're too
expensive, you're not charging enough."

I just had someone replace the corner boards on my house (replacing
wood with PVC) and about 750 ft^2 of Hardi-plank siding on one side
(original moron didn't use house-wrap). Some of the corner boards
required some pretty high work (and from the roof, where they found
the Hardi wasn't even nailed around the chimney). The guy did a
really nice job but wasn't cheap. It took he and a helper four days
and me, $3400 labor. I thought it a little high but he has a life to
live too and as you folks point out, he has to make the government
happy too.

While he was working on my house, two neighbors came over and wanted
his number to do similar work (and their homes are only three to five
years old). A friend at work wants his number, too. Seems it's hard
to find people who will do small jobs like this, and do them well.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 10:00:26 PM UTC-5, wrote:

It took he and a helper four days
and me, $3400 labor.

Seems it's hard
to find people who will do small jobs like this, and do them well.

I think we have different definitions of "small jobs". Three people working four days. $3400 labor only cost for two people. Materials cost additional?

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On 4/26/2019 11:53 AM, wrote:
On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St.
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

I think officially I have the Honda HRX217VKA mower. And it only has a 21" deck! Now comes with a 200cc motor, but mine is 190cc. Guess even Honda has learned a little in the last couple years and put a bigger motor in their underpowered mower. And it has a plastic, nylon, polyester deck. Not steel like I thought. Its been 6 months since I last used it.


I think the only difference between the VKA and the HYK is that yours
has a different style engagement for the self propel. The HYK pretty
much has the same layout of controls, on the handle bar, as my mower.

We learned on the OHC engines to not let gas sit in it over the winter
period, it was particularity touchy with stagnant gas so we learned to
only run premium gas, use a gas stabilizer, and drain the tank at the
end of the cutting season. I do this too with my personal mower now.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 1:18:28 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/26/2019 11:53 AM, wrote:
On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards.. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St.
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

I think officially I have the Honda HRX217VKA mower. And it only has a 21" deck! Now comes with a 200cc motor, but mine is 190cc. Guess even Honda has learned a little in the last couple years and put a bigger motor in their underpowered mower. And it has a plastic, nylon, polyester deck. Not steel like I thought. Its been 6 months since I last used it.


I think the only difference between the VKA and the HYK is that yours
has a different style engagement for the self propel. The HYK pretty
much has the same layout of controls, on the handle bar, as my mower.

We learned on the OHC engines to not let gas sit in it over the winter
period, it was particularity touchy with stagnant gas so we learned to
only run premium gas, use a gas stabilizer, and drain the tank at the
end of the cutting season. I do this too with my personal mower now.

With my 160cc OHC Honda I've been using regular gas with stabilizer and
starting it a couple times over the winter for what's gotta be 15 years now..

I did replace the carb a couple of years ago but that was when it started
acting up mid-summer, not at the beginning of mowing season.

I do the same thing with my snowblower. Every couple of months, when I'm
already making noise with the lawn mower, I pull it out of the garage and
let it run for 15-20 minutes. I drive it a bit and run the auger just to
keep everything loose.

There may be better ways, but it works for me so I'm not trying anything different. ;-)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 13:38:21 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 1:18:28 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/26/2019 11:53 AM, wrote:
On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St.
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

I think officially I have the Honda HRX217VKA mower. And it only has a 21" deck! Now comes with a 200cc motor, but mine is 190cc. Guess even Honda has learned a little in the last couple years and put a bigger motor in their underpowered mower. And it has a plastic, nylon, polyester deck. Not steel like I thought. Its been 6 months since I last used it.


I think the only difference between the VKA and the HYK is that yours
has a different style engagement for the self propel. The HYK pretty
much has the same layout of controls, on the handle bar, as my mower.

We learned on the OHC engines to not let gas sit in it over the winter
period, it was particularity touchy with stagnant gas so we learned to
only run premium gas, use a gas stabilizer, and drain the tank at the
end of the cutting season. I do this too with my personal mower now.

With my 160cc OHC Honda I've been using regular gas with stabilizer and
starting it a couple times over the winter for what's gotta be 15 years now.

I did replace the carb a couple of years ago but that was when it started
acting up mid-summer, not at the beginning of mowing season.

I do the same thing with my snowblower. Every couple of months, when I'm
already making noise with the lawn mower, I pull it out of the garage and
let it run for 15-20 minutes. I drive it a bit and run the auger just to
keep everything loose.

There may be better ways, but it works for me so I'm not trying anything different. ;-)
A bit hard to do when you need to trade storage spots seasonally -
and unless you FULLY warm up the engine every time you start it you
are accumulating moisture in the oil - which is not good.
How often do you change the oil? Most people don't even CHECK it more
than once a year - if that.

I just use premium fuel and keep the tank full for storage. I throw a
bit of seafoam in with the gas if I remember, and run the carb dry
after shutting off the gas on the blower and on any engine with a fuel
shutoff. Cold storage over the winter isn't as fuel critical as hot
storage (over the summer). Occaisionally it will take a chuff of
starting fluid to start the little mower in the spring for the first
time. (primer carb - no choke)

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:57:25 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 13:38:21 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 1:18:28 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/26/2019 11:53 AM, wrote:
On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath.. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St..
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

I think officially I have the Honda HRX217VKA mower. And it only has a 21" deck! Now comes with a 200cc motor, but mine is 190cc. Guess even Honda has learned a little in the last couple years and put a bigger motor in their underpowered mower. And it has a plastic, nylon, polyester deck. Not steel like I thought. Its been 6 months since I last used it.


I think the only difference between the VKA and the HYK is that yours
has a different style engagement for the self propel. The HYK pretty
much has the same layout of controls, on the handle bar, as my mower.

We learned on the OHC engines to not let gas sit in it over the winter
period, it was particularity touchy with stagnant gas so we learned to
only run premium gas, use a gas stabilizer, and drain the tank at the
end of the cutting season. I do this too with my personal mower now.

With my 160cc OHC Honda I've been using regular gas with stabilizer and
starting it a couple times over the winter for what's gotta be 15 years now.

I did replace the carb a couple of years ago but that was when it started
acting up mid-summer, not at the beginning of mowing season.

I do the same thing with my snowblower. Every couple of months, when I'm
already making noise with the lawn mower, I pull it out of the garage and
let it run for 15-20 minutes. I drive it a bit and run the auger just to
keep everything loose.

There may be better ways, but it works for me so I'm not trying anything different. ;-)


A bit hard to do when you need to trade storage spots seasonally -

Not really, as long as the storage spot is accessible. I put the snow
blower/mower on a moving dolly to make it easy to finesse it in and
out of the back corner of the garage.

and unless you FULLY warm up the engine every time you start it you
are accumulating moisture in the oil - which is not good.

15 or so years on the mower, 9 - 10 on the snowblower. I must be doing
something right. If it ain't broke, I ain't fixing it.

How often do you change the oil? Most people don't even CHECK it more
than once a year - if that.

Per the manual. I check the air in the snowblower tires too. It's an SOB
to maneuver when they are down a few pounds. Unfortunately, they never
*look* like they're down a few pounds, so you have to have check them
regularly. Maybe I should put TPMS sensors on the machine.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 10:14:17 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 10:00:26 PM UTC-5, wrote:

It took he and a helper four days
and me, $3400 labor.

Seems it's hard
to find people who will do small jobs like this, and do them well.

I think we have different definitions of "small jobs". Three people working four days. $3400 labor only cost for two people. Materials cost additional?

It's not a whole house or even an addition. Just some Hardi-plank.
Labor only. I bought all materials, another $1600 give or take. Labor
not including paint.

Track saw or spindle sander
 

On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 14:33:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:57:25 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 13:38:21 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 1:18:28 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/26/2019 11:53 AM, wrote:
On Friday, April 26, 2019 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/25/2019 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 12:53:59 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
Let's say hypothetically you had $400 or so in Home Depot gift cards. Would you buy a Dewalt track saw or a Delta spindle sander?

Thanks.

I have a Honda mower too. Paid about $600 two or three years ago. Has the bigger 190cc engine. Self propelled. Not the commercial series. Has the steel deck. Starts on the first or second pull every time. Excellent mower. Only big complaints are it needs a bigger motor. I can easily kill the mower when the grass is tall. And I wish it mowed a wider swath. It would need a bigger engine.


Mine is the HR194. Honda has not made this size in years. It also has
the aluminum deck, 4 HP motor and cuts a 19" swath.
I wish 19" was still available. The 4 HP is plenty even in tall St.
Augustine/Carpet Grass. I have an average sized yard but lots of
obstacles and narrow paths that I need to turn around in.
My son has the OHC lawn mower that he inherited from my dad, IIRC the
HRX217HYA, it is about 12~13 years old. I used it a lot when I mowed my
dad's yard and I was never really impressed by the OHC engine, compared
to the OHV engine on mine.

I think officially I have the Honda HRX217VKA mower. And it only has a 21" deck! Now comes with a 200cc motor, but mine is 190cc. Guess even Honda has learned a little in the last couple years and put a bigger motor in their underpowered mower. And it has a plastic, nylon, polyester deck. Not steel like I thought. Its been 6 months since I last used it.


I think the only difference between the VKA and the HYK is that yours
has a different style engagement for the self propel. The HYK pretty
much has the same layout of controls, on the handle bar, as my mower.

We learned on the OHC engines to not let gas sit in it over the winter
period, it was particularity touchy with stagnant gas so we learned to
only run premium gas, use a gas stabilizer, and drain the tank at the
end of the cutting season. I do this too with my personal mower now.

With my 160cc OHC Honda I've been using regular gas with stabilizer and
starting it a couple times over the winter for what's gotta be 15 years now.

I did replace the carb a couple of years ago but that was when it started
acting up mid-summer, not at the beginning of mowing season.

I do the same thing with my snowblower. Every couple of months, when I'm
already making noise with the lawn mower, I pull it out of the garage and
let it run for 15-20 minutes. I drive it a bit and run the auger just to
keep everything loose.

There may be better ways, but it works for me so I'm not trying anything different. ;-)


A bit hard to do when you need to trade storage spots seasonally -

Not really, as long as the storage spot is accessible. I put the snow
blower/mower on a moving dolly to make it easy to finesse it in and
out of the back corner of the garage.

and unless you FULLY warm up the engine every time you start it you
are accumulating moisture in the oil - which is not good.

15 or so years on the mower, 9 - 10 on the snowblower. I must be doing
something right. If it ain't broke, I ain't fixing it.

How often do you change the oil? Most people don't even CHECK it more
than once a year - if that.

Per the manual. I check the air in the snowblower tires too. It's an SOB
to maneuver when they are down a few pounds. Unfortunately, they never
*look* like they're down a few pounds, so you have to have check them
regularly. Maybe I should put TPMS sensors on the machine.


Tracks are an SOB any time and you can't air them up. When my stuff
is in off-season starage getting them out to run them is a
"production" The shed is 10X10 and it doesn't have any waste space -
racking pn 2 sides, bench on the third, and door in the 4th