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Larry Kraus wrote:
A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper. See https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=pitch+gauge I ordered one of those tonight. I'll keep my eyes open for the right tap and die set. "Hanson" apparently was a recommended brand. Looks like "Irwin" may have bought it up. Handmade tap and die wrenches might make satisfying projects...though that's probably the sort of project that may be most successful when you have a working example (and/or specifications) in front of you. Another project I have, and have had for a number of years, involves bending 1/2"x1/8"cold steel bar into a circular shape about 12" in diameter, and then a 2nd piece of the same material which wraps snugly around the first piece. Since I only need these 2 pieces I don't intend to buy new tooling for it. I hope that a homemade "wooden anvil" of the right curvature may work. I actually already bought a small tap and tap wrench for this project. The 2nd piece shows up very well in the following picture (if you click on it, it will play a video). http://bell.20m.com/banjosrelicpage.html |
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On Sat, 12 Jan 2019 03:54:35 -0500, Bill wrote:
Larry Kraus wrote: A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper. See https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=pitch+gauge I ordered one of those tonight. I'll keep my eyes open for the right tap and die set. "Hanson" apparently was a recommended brand. Looks like "Irwin" may have bought it up. Handmade tap and die wrenches might make satisfying projects...though that's probably the sort of project that may be most successful when you have a working example (and/or specifications) in front of you. Another project I have, and have had for a number of years, involves bending 1/2"x1/8"cold steel bar into a circular shape about 12" in diameter, and then a 2nd piece of the same material which wraps snugly around the first piece. Since I only need these 2 pieces I don't intend to buy new tooling for it. I hope that a homemade "wooden anvil" of the right curvature may work. I actually already bought a small tap and tap wrench for this project. The 2nd piece shows up very well in the following picture (if you click on it, it will play a video). http://bell.20m.com/banjosrelicpage.html Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable roller as you go untill you get the radius you need. |
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Clare Snyder wrote:
Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable roller as you go untill you get the radius you need. I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like "spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10 years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore. I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them... When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow! This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : ) Bill |
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On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote:
When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow! This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : ) Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad things to wood. -- Jerry O. |
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On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote:
Clare Snyder wrote: Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable roller as you go untill you get the radius you need. I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like "spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10 years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore. I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them... When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow! This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : ) Bill A set of ball bearings will work better. I've seen it done with a vice. Bolt a plate with 2 bearings to one jaw, and 1 bearing to the other jaw. Bearings running horizontally - You could use hardwood blocks - 2X2 oak for instance, with bearings bolted through one way,and jaw-bolts the other direction. Pull the metal through, crankthe vise 1/4 turn orwhatever, and pull through again - repeat untill you have your hoop. |
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Jerry Osage wrote:
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote: When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow! This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : ) Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad things to wood. I have to powerspray the porous decking floor of the deck and the many wooden slats that make up the fence around it. I have read to start at 8-12" away on the deck. I didn't realize the wood was so vulnerable too (but I will keep your caution in mind)! While look at a copy of "Consumer Reports", I noted that they evaluated the way the stain looked after 1, 2, and 3 years. Heck, I haven't re-stained mine (ever) in 9 years, so I'm expected a big improvement! I used inexpensive "deck cleaner" with a brush once, but I wasn't overly-impressed with the results--it looked cleaner when I was through, but I sensed that I may as well have been using water. I am expecting significant before/after results this time, so I am sort of looking forward to getting on with it. Bill |
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Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote: Clare Snyder wrote: Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable roller as you go untill you get the radius you need. I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like "spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10 years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore. I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them... When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow! This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : ) Bill A set of ball bearings will work better. I've seen it done with a vice. Bolt a plate with 2 bearings to one jaw, and 1 bearing to the other jaw. Bearings running horizontally - You could use hardwood blocks - 2X2 oak for instance, with bearings bolted through one way,and jaw-bolts the other direction. Pull the metal through, crankthe vise 1/4 turn orwhatever, and pull through again - repeat untill you have your hoop. I made some sketches, and got it right on the 3rd try! It seems like a very good idea! I'll let you know about how it goes. Thank you! Bill |
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Clare Snyder wrote:
Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times - as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when used after soaking it with bleach. I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?) parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10 minutes. Am I on the right track? |
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On 1/14/2019 1:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Clare Snyder wrote: Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times - as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when used after soaking it with bleach. I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?) parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10 minutes. Am I on the right track? Bleach is your friend, Power washer not. I removed a 16x32' above ground pool a few years ago that was abutted to my deck. The wolmanized 2x12's that were exposed for the first time in 20+ years were black. I got a brush and used straight bleach and with no effort, and I mean no effort, the wolmanized lumber looked brand new. I used just a hose to wash it off, no pressure washer. I have already done damage to my deck with a pressure washer because it is very difficult not to get carried away with stubborn spots when using a PW and weak chemicals. If you _need_ a pressure washer to clean your deck, your cleaning chemicals are not working and need to be stronger. I learned this the hard way. The problem with bleach is it is not friendly to vegetation, so if that's an issue, cover with plastic or something.I still use a pressure washer because I can, but am very careful with it. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:48:40 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
Clare Snyder wrote: Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times - as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when used after soaking it with bleach. I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?) parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10 minutes. Am I on the right track? These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose. This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet. https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out. https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals. My cat lapped up a little water from a puddle and is still around. Obviously the puddle was more water than Krud Kutter, but the cat isn't walking around sideways or falling over a lot. ;-) At 1600 PSI, there was negligible damage to the wood itself. Some corners of the railings, where there were sharp edges, ended up with some "hair". The balusters and deck boards, which have rounded edges, were not impacted at all. I'm going to stain it this spring, so I'll probably give it a quick wash again and then hit the edges of the railings with some sandpaper once it dries. I do suggest that you wet down any nearby vegetation before you start and rinse it every now and then just to be extra safe. |
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On Mon, 14 Jan 2019 07:15:05 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:48:40 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote: Clare Snyder wrote: Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times - as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when used after soaking it with bleach. I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?) parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10 minutes. Am I on the right track? I used about 8:1 sprayed on with a garden sprayer onto a still-wet pre-washed deck These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose. This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet. https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out. https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg Looks about like my SYP deck after cleaning. I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals. My cat lapped up a little water from a puddle and is still around. Obviously the puddle was more water than Krud Kutter, but the cat isn't walking around sideways or falling over a lot. ;-) At 1600 PSI, there was negligible damage to the wood itself. Some corners of the railings, where there were sharp edges, ended up with some "hair". The balusters and deck boards, which have rounded edges, were not impacted at all. I'm going to stain it this spring, so I'll probably give it a quick wash again and then hit the edges of the railings with some sandpaper once it dries. I do suggest that you wet down any nearby vegetation before you start and rinse it every now and then just to be extra safe. About what I did with the bleach. I did try the "active oxygen" cleaner and it was pretty much useless. I then made the mistake of applying a "deck restore" product that started peeling about 3 days later. What a DISASTER. I got my money back but I'm left dealing with the aftermath - which includes trapped moisture causing some boards to rot faster than they otherwise would have - as well as sheets of the product blowing across the yard in wind storms. |
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DerbyDad03 wrote:
These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose. This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet. https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out. https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals. I went and checked, and I have most of a gallon of "Jomax" (which one adds bleach to) left over from another project. It is safer than using pure bleach too, which appeals to me. I'll try that first. I still will need to cover all the plants/spirea which surround the deck (not hard to do). Thanks for the tips! It's nice to have a plan, so that after the snow melts--and maybe a few weeks after that, I can hit the ground running! I'll take before/after pics, because I think they are motivating to others! : ) Bill |
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