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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
Hey everyone,
I'm working on a cabinet drawer for a spice cabinet box. I have planned on placing the sides on the inside of the front and back of the box and using pocket holes for the joinery. As I thought about it more, I have considered using a dado joint to insert the bottom of the box (to help ensure it is inserted level), but only cutting out the groove on the front and back of the box. I'm sure there are questions abound (why aren't you dadoing the sides and front and back, why are you dadoing and pocket holing, why are the sides on the inside of the front and back and not on the outside) - but basically I want to know if there is any value (or any issue) with my intended set-up. I'm a novice - so learning more is always helpful. Thanks in advance! |
#2
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 9:13:40 PM UTC-5, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Hey everyone, I'm working on a cabinet drawer for a spice cabinet box. I have planned on placing the sides on the inside of the front and back of the box and using pocket holes for the joinery. As I thought about it more, I have considered using a dado joint to insert the bottom of the box (to help ensure it is inserted level), but only cutting out the groove on the front and back of the box. I'm sure there are questions abound (why aren't you dadoing the sides and front and back, why are you dadoing and pocket holing, why are the sides on the inside of the front and back and not on the outside) - but basically I want to know if there is any value (or any issue) with my intended set-up.. I'm a novice - so learning more is always helpful. Thanks in advance! One very good reason not to do what you are thinking about is the minor issue of your bottom getting a warp or bend and ceasing to fit properly, or (worst case scenario) falling out. |
#3
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
.... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. .... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. -- |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. |
#5
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no! The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... -- |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/18 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. I've seen drawers constructed that way and they usually have brads in that section to hold the drawer bottom tight against the back or some sort of metal bracket. Most drawers like that use flimsy 1/8-3/16" hardboard for the bottoms and they sag in the middle of the drawer, anyway. Regardless of how far around the drawer the slots are cut, a thin bottom is a design flaw in my book. I like the idea of being able to install the bottom before or after assembly. A properly build drawer has a bottom that is stiff enough to only need side support-- anything else is belt & suspenders. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
#7
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no! The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. |
#8
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no! The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. They're overloaded, then...the bottom needs to be sufficient to support the load in any drawer, no matter how it's constructed. -- |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 12:21 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/23/18 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. I've seen drawers constructed that way and they usually have brads in that section to hold the drawer bottom tight against the back or some sort of metal bracket. Most drawers like that use flimsy 1/8-3/16" hardboard for the bottoms and they sag in the middle of the drawer, anyway.Â* Regardless of how far around the drawer the slots are cut, a thin bottom is a design flaw in my book. I like the idea of being able to install the bottom before or after assembly. A properly build drawer has a bottom that is stiff enough to only need side support-- anything else is belt & suspenders. +1 Drawers were built this way long preceding the invention of the various engineered materials; it's only the more recent advent and with the penchant of commercial cabinets in particular being design to be as cheap as possible to build and cover up the shortcomings with flash o the surface that became such a problem. I virtually always still use solid bottom panels excepting for the most utilitarian and even then would never go under 1/4" ply for single-wide. -- |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, dpb wrote:
On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. -- Tradition schmadition. Unless you are trying to exactly duplicate some antique piece you should use the best available method and material. I routinely use bottoms that are 1/2" thick solid material, beveled on the bottom surface, and fitted into 1/4" dadoes which are cut into all four sides of the drawer. Sure, I can't easily pop it out for repair, an acceptable thing in my mind, since a 1/2" solid bottoms aren't likely to sag or fail while a bottom tacked into place depends entirely on the fasteners which may pull out or split the stock. If a replacement was actually needed in the future then a simple cut across the bottom of the rear would allow the loose bottom to be slid out. Oh, and I also use dovetails all the way round -- blind in the front and through at the rear. |
#11
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 14:47:25 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no! The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. They're overloaded, then...the bottom needs to be sufficient to support the load in any drawer, no matter how it's constructed. They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're "overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit disingenuous. |
#12
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
.... They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're "overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit disingenuous. If the bottom sags, they're overloaded! Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry... -- |
#13
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 3:02 PM, John McGaw wrote:
On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. -- Tradition schmadition. Unless you are trying toÂ* exactly duplicate some antique piece you should use the best available method and material. I routinely use bottoms that are 1/2" thick solid material, beveled on the bottom surface, and fitted into 1/4" dadoes which are cut into all four sides of the drawer. Sure, I can't easily pop it out for repair, an acceptableÂ* thing in my mind, since a 1/2" solid bottoms aren't likely to sag or fail while a bottom tacked into place depends entirely on the fasteners which may pull out or split the stock. If a replacement was actually needed in the future then a simple cut across the bottom of the rear would allow the loose bottom to be slid out. .... Which is ok provided you leave sufficient expansion room in the grooves...with just a pin is the bottom can move enough sufficiently... If you prefer that, fine, with the half-inch bottom it's not needed unless it's a very wide drawer and I personally prefer then to only do front/sides... ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., etc, ... -- -- |
#14
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 17:27:16 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote: ... They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're "overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit disingenuous. If the bottom sags, they're overloaded! Beat me to it! Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry... The problem is that one of the fundamental laws of the universe is that "stuff" will accumulate to fit the space given. Weight isn't often of concern. |
#15
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 10:52:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 17:27:16 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote: ... They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're "overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit disingenuous. If the bottom sags, they're overloaded! Beat me to it! Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry... The problem is that one of the fundamental laws of the universe is that "stuff" will accumulate to fit the space given. Weight isn't often of concern. Well, eventually it is. |
#16
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 19:57:45 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 10:52:03 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 17:27:16 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote: ... They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're "overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit disingenuous. If the bottom sags, they're overloaded! Beat me to it! Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry... The problem is that one of the fundamental laws of the universe is that "stuff" will accumulate to fit the space given. Weight isn't often of concern. Well, eventually it is. Nah, it's the damned drawer's fault. |
#17
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
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#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches).
I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward. And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/25/18 6:53 AM, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches). I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward. And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha. A couple things. All this talk about sag is a non-issue. You make the bottom strong enough for the intended purpose, period. 1/4" cabinet grade plywood is usually strong enough for smaller drawers, but you might want to go 3/8" which you'll find as 9mm or even 1/2" which you'll find as 12mm in cabinet grade plywood. You don't have to cut the dado the full thickness of the plywood. You can rabbet the edge of the plywood to match the dado. 1/4" is a common size for that. About that dado... I would cut a slot to receive the drawer bottom on the sides before I would do it on the front/back. That is, if I had to choose on or the other. The point is, you don't. Since you're likely using the same plywood for the sides and back of the drawer, it's easier to cut the dado in the plywood before you cut it into the separate pieces. Heck, most cabinet drawers are done with all four sides in plywood, with a separate face anyway, so you can cut all 4 dados as one on the plywood before cutting out the sides. In other words it's easier to cut dados in all sections of the drawer than it is to cut it in only two. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
#20
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
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#21
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no! The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well. |
#22
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 7:53:59 AM UTC-4, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches). I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward. And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha. Once you set up the router to do the front and back dado's, it's nothing more than 2 more passes to dado the sides. The set-up is the work, the dado's are the fun part. ;-) Any reason you are not using a table saw for the dado's? |
#23
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 10:12:08 AM UTC-5, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Yes, I don't know how far the dado is from the bottom? 1/8 or so? You could glue a thin support cleat, maybe. Just a thought. |
#24
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/25/18 6:00 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no!Â* The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory.Â* I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well. Or just dado all the sides/back at one time. I don't know why people in here constantly try to reinvent the wheel. Not only reinvent it, but go back in time and make wooden-spoke carriage wheels. :-) It's so easy to dado the all the sides/back/front as one piece, then cut to leangth. Heck, they even sell them already slotted and pre-finished.... https://www.woodcraft.com/products/p...e-60-x-4-stock -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
#25
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Tuesday, June 26, 2018 at 12:42:10 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/25/18 6:00 PM, Leon wrote: On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no!Â* The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory.Â* I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well. Or just dado all the sides/back at one time. I don't know why people in here constantly try to reinvent the wheel. Not only reinvent it, but go back in time and make wooden-spoke carriage wheels. :-) It's so easy to dado the all the sides/back/front as one piece, then cut to leangth. Heck, they even sell them already slotted and pre-finished.... https://www.woodcraft.com/products/p...e-60-x-4-stock Sometimes it's a matter of necessity/limitations. I have a very small shop. It's actually (sometimes) easier to dado 4 smaller pieces than 1 long one. The OP mentioned using a router table. We don't know if it's a bench top, a standalone, or a table saw extension. If it's a bench top (possible since this a "early project" for the OP) small pieces are probably going to be easier to handle. As skills and equipment progress, techniques will also. |
#26
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/25/2018 7:53 AM, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches). I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. Yes, that will become obvious after you build your first drawer. Also, you will find cutting the back off to screw/nail the drawer bottom for later removal is not only more work, but a waste of time as it will never be needed on a correctly built drawer. Even if it would be needed, which it won't, you can cut the back then to remove the bottom. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward. Yes. Forget minimalist approach, do it right the first try, minimalist approaches almost always end up as a "maximist" approaches. And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha. Stuff you build for yourself always demands maximum attention as _you_ will be living with all your mistakes, as well as your perfection. Perfection is easy to live with, so avoid minimalist approaches until you have maximum experience and KNOW where cutting a corner 'might' work. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
#27
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On 6/25/2018 11:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/25/18 6:00 PM, Leon wrote: On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote: On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote: On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ... Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four side. ... While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the bottom inserted later. The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find. Well, no!Â* The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? ) which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue, granted... That's the theory.Â* I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back to ever be comfortable with that concept. Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well. Or just dado all the sides/back at one time. I don't know why people in here constantly try to reinvent the wheel. Not only reinvent it, but go back in time and make wooden-spoke carriage wheels.Â*Â* :-) I cut grooves on all 4 sides on all of my drawers. Out of the 2~4 hundred drawers that I have built this way none have had to be repaired. |
#28
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
Electric Comet on Mon, 25 Jun 2018
10:54:25 -0700 typed in rec.woodworking the following: On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 04:53:55 wrote: And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha. usually there are no complaints unless it fails somehow if your first prototype works then congrats if not maybe it can be reworked and become prototype two and so on perfect should not get in the way of good enough "Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things. Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish, because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful. -- pyotr filipivich Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing? |
#29
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote: "Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things. Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish, because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful. recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just did a light sand on it and put it back to use hand oils will work fine on this one |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700 pyotr filipivich wrote: "Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things. Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish, because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful. recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just did a light sand on it and put it back to use Very informative post. Replaced it with what? hand oils will work fine on this one |
#31
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 13:02:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700 pyotr filipivich wrote: "Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things. Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish, because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful. recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just did a light sand on it and put it back to use Very informative post. Replaced it with what? Left over periods. |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 13:02:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700 pyotr filipivich wrote: "Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things. Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish, because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful. recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just did a light sand on it and put it back to use Very informative post. Replaced it with what? Left over periods. What grit do you use to sand a period? |
#33
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dado on front and back of cabinet drawer only
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 17:49:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 13:02:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700 pyotr filipivich wrote: "Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things. Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish, because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful. recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just did a light sand on it and put it back to use Very informative post. Replaced it with what? Left over periods. What grit do you use to sand a period? Light, evidently. |
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