DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through
the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer.
You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do
a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so
be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg


Hey! You did good, Nice!

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 11:56:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through
the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer.
You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do
a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so
be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg


Hey! You did good, Nice!

Thanks. Now I have to go read that thread about sharpening chisels. ;-)

Still, for 4 doors on the bookcase project, this was OK. The 25+ doors, drawers, panels, etc.
for the rest of the kitchen is going to be pretty time consuming. I may rethink the chamfer/vertical
profile design and buy the bit set that produces the full chamfer and the matching cope.

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 11:23:21 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/1/18 9:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through
the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer.
You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do
a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so
be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg


Looks great.



Thanks.

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through
the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer.
You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do
a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so
be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as simple...
In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!

On 2/2/2018 6:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 11:56:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through
the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer.
You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do
a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so
be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg


Hey! You did good, Nice!

Thanks. Now I have to go read that thread about sharpening chisels. ;-)

Still, for 4 doors on the bookcase project, this was OK. The 25+ doors, drawers, panels, etc.
for the rest of the kitchen is going to be pretty time consuming. I may rethink the chamfer/vertical
profile design and buy the bit set that produces the full chamfer and the matching cope.


Well if you think doing 25 more doors might be tedious...Chisels are no
better. ;~)

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS...worksharp+3000

On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.
Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

Reminds me of the experiment a ceramics professor did at the school
where I used to work.
He split the class into two groups. He told each class they had the
entire quarter to finish the project.
Group A's assignment was to produce one perfect ceramic pot.
Group B's assignment was to produce 100 pots, irrespective of quality.

At the end of the quarter, Group A had produced a decent ceramic pot
with some minor flaws, struggling to meet the deadline.

About 2 months into the quarter, Group B had produced a few ceramic pots
of poor quality, a few more of decent quality, about a dozen of the
quality of Groups A's single ceramic pot, and about 80 absolutely
perfect ceramic pots.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 2/2/18 8:40 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2018 6:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 11:56:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through
the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer.
You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do
a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so
be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg


Hey!Â* You did good, Nice!

Thanks. Now I have to go read that thread about sharpening chisels. ;-)

Still, for 4 doors on the bookcase project, this was OK. The 25+
doors, drawers, panels, etc.
for the rest of the kitchen is going to be pretty time consuming. I
may rethink the chamfer/vertical
profile design and buy the bit set that produces the full chamfer and
the matching cope.


Well if you think doing 25 more doors might be tedious...Chisels are no
better.Â* ;~)

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS...worksharp+3000


I'm digging mine!!
You can get it for cheaper, here. jbtoolsales.com


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 2/2/2018 10:02 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the
stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with
Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to
do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.
Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.
LOL, Probably right. But for me, I would have it all figured on number
24. I would keep experimenting for the perfect way.



Reminds me of the experiment a ceramics professor did at the school
where I used to work.
He split the class into two groups.Â* He told each class they had the
entire quarter to finish the project.
Group A's assignment was to produce one perfect ceramic pot.
Group B's assignment was to produce 100 pots, irrespective of quality.

At the end of the quarter, Group A had produced a decent ceramic pot
with some minor flaws, struggling to meet the deadline.

About 2 months into the quarter, Group B had produced a few ceramic pots
of poor quality, a few more of decent quality, about a dozen of the
quality of Groups A's single ceramic pot, and about 80 absolutely
perfect ceramic pots.


I responded above before reading the ceramics experiment. I wonder if
the 80 perfect ones were the last to be produced or closer to he first. LOL

On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)

On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)


There's a really cheap 45degree bearing bit out there that doesn't have
a bearing at all. It just had a round shaft that protrudes up. The
shaft acts as the bearing surface for the bit to ride on.
The shaft might be short enough for your application. If it wasn't, you
could probably grind it down so it would be.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

Two ways that used to be accomplished:

1. Once upon a time, long, long ago there were very few carbide bits.
There were also very few bits with bearings; however, there were LOTS of
bits with pilots, the pilot being an extension at the bottom, maybe 1/8" in
diameter and 1/4" long. In cases like yours, the pilot was shortened to as
little as 1/16. In fact, I still have one.

2. People have been known to dry fit the rails and stiles - sans panel -
then rout.

On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 6:07:35 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)


There's a really cheap 45degree bearing bit out there that doesn't have
a bearing at all. It just had a round shaft that protrudes up. The
shaft acts as the bearing surface for the bit to ride on.
The shaft might be short enough for your application. If it wasn't, you
could probably grind it down so it would be.

I doubt these are cheap, but I get the idea. Thanks.

https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2...g-router-bits/

On 2/2/18 6:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 6:07:35 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)


There's a really cheap 45degree bearing bit out there that doesn't have
a bearing at all. It just had a round shaft that protrudes up. The
shaft acts as the bearing surface for the bit to ride on.
The shaft might be short enough for your application. If it wasn't, you
could probably grind it down so it would be.

I doubt these are cheap, but I get the idea. Thanks.

https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2...g-router-bits/


25 bucks for the chamfer version ain't bad, especially considering the
quality of that company.

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 8:02:19 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 6:07:35 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)


There's a really cheap 45degree bearing bit out there that doesn't have
a bearing at all. It just had a round shaft that protrudes up. The
shaft acts as the bearing surface for the bit to ride on.
The shaft might be short enough for your application. If it wasn't, you
could probably grind it down so it would be.

I doubt these are cheap, but I get the idea. Thanks.

https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2...g-router-bits/


25 bucks for the chamfer version ain't bad, especially considering the
quality of that company.


$30 with 10 day shipping, but you are right. I hadn't looked up the price before I posted. I
was surprised it was that cheap. It might be worth giving it a try when I'm ready to do the
rest of the kitchen, but that's going to be a while.

On 2/2/18 7:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 8:02:19 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 6:07:35 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)


There's a really cheap 45degree bearing bit out there that doesn't have
a bearing at all. It just had a round shaft that protrudes up. The
shaft acts as the bearing surface for the bit to ride on.
The shaft might be short enough for your application. If it wasn't, you
could probably grind it down so it would be.

I doubt these are cheap, but I get the idea. Thanks.

https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2...g-router-bits/


25 bucks for the chamfer version ain't bad, especially considering the
quality of that company.


$30 with 10 day shipping, but you are right. I hadn't looked up the price before I posted. I
was surprised it was that cheap. It might be worth giving it a try when I'm ready to do the
rest of the kitchen, but that's going to be a while.


Check your local big box stores. I've seen them for like 12 bucks.
Maybe less.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 8:02:19 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 6:07:35 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:02:43 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 6:17 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 10:57:06 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

...snip...


You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles
through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You
would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but
you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.


I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on
the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot"
with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still
need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail,
but so be it.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

Looks good...did you consider using a router after the glue up and
using a sharp chisel to finish the inside corner? With a simple
chamfer it seems do-able. A more complicated profile might not be as
simple... In any case, as have said others, ya dunn gud!


His original post about this had a link pointing to how to do just that.
I think it would be faster.

I'm the rookie here, so tell me what I am missing.

The link in my OP shows a guy squaring up a chamfer on an open frame. I'm
working on a door with a panel. I'm not seeing how the profile I want can
be created after the door is assembled. Neither of chamfer bits I have
would work.

https://i.imgur.com/DYP09CE.jpg

Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors on
this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the kitchen
doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.

Doing a perfect chisel cut on one is difficult.
Doing it on 25 will be easy because by the 3rd one he will have
developed a good technique and he'll fly through the rest with perfect
results.

The thing is that with real wood if you screw it up, you're screwed.
With filler, you can keep filling it until you get it right. Now, I'm not
saying that I had to refill any of the 16 corners that I just did, I'm just
saying that there's a fix available should one need one. ;-)


There's a really cheap 45degree bearing bit out there that doesn't have
a bearing at all. It just had a round shaft that protrudes up. The
shaft acts as the bearing surface for the bit to ride on.
The shaft might be short enough for your application. If it wasn't, you
could probably grind it down so it would be.

I doubt these are cheap, but I get the idea. Thanks.

https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2...g-router-bits/


25 bucks for the chamfer version ain't bad, especially considering the
quality of that company.


$30 with 10 day shipping, but you are right. I hadn't looked up the price
before I posted. I
was surprised it was that cheap. It might be worth giving it a try when I'm ready to do the
rest of the kitchen, but that's going to be a while.


Keep n mind that these fixed pilot bearing bits generate much more fiction
and heat. Don't stop or move slow or you get burning. Probably not an
issue if painting.

On Monday, January 22, 2018 at 10:36:09 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

As best I understand, your doors are already built, right? And you want to chamfer the inside panel frame edges, right? You need, or looking for, a non-bearing bit whose profile is 45°, right?

Also, if so, I suppose you are using a hand held router, aligning auxiliary fence(s) for guidance.

I can mail you this one. You'd need to SLOW grind the profile, a little, to make it 45°. When grinding, make sure its ground equally, so that the bit is balanced. When done, mail it back to me. Is my initial assumptions (as to presently assembled doors) correct... if so, is this bit an option for you? The bit is 1/2" shaft.

Couple of pics, scroll right: https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

I might have another bit that I could give you, though it'd require more grinding, than the pictured one. I'll have to look further for another one.

Sonny

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 9:53:53 AM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:


Couple of pics, scroll right: https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/


This profile seems about 30°..... I didn't try to measure it. This profile might be good enough, as is, no grinding.

Sonny

On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors
on this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the
kitchen doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.


I was thinking about this and I don't think it would take very long to
set up a pattern for *all* doors.

The offset for each door would be the same, and the distance to
stop/turn the router at the corners is the same for each door. The only
thing that changes is the length and width of each door, but you don't
really need to worry about that if you set op a corner jig.

A corner jig could be attached to a work table.
The jig would have guide fences for the door that are attached to the
work table.
Straight router guide rails would attach on top of the door fences, and
be set at a distance equal to the offset of your router base, starting
from the inside edges of the rails/stiles.

Now just set a door corner in the guide jig, run the router through that
corner, stopping a little more than half way down/across the top and
side. Then rotate the door 90degrees in the jig and repeat 3x per door.
Quick release cam hold-downs screwed to the jig would facilitate
efficient clamping.

I drew up a quick illustration.
http://mikedrums.com/Chamfer_Router_Jig.PNG


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 1:23:02 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/2/18 4:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Perhaps building a pattern would work, but even with the four doors
on this project, there are 2 different sizes. Once I start on the
kitchen doors, there are at least 10 different sizes.


I was thinking about this and I don't think it would take very long to
set up a pattern for *all* doors.

The offset for each door would be the same, and the distance to
stop/turn the router at the corners is the same for each door. The only
thing that changes is the length and width of each door, but you don't
really need to worry about that if you set op a corner jig.

A corner jig could be attached to a work table.
The jig would have guide fences for the door that are attached to the
work table.
Straight router guide rails would attach on top of the door fences, and
be set at a distance equal to the offset of your router base, starting
from the inside edges of the rails/stiles.

Now just set a door corner in the guide jig, run the router through that
corner, stopping a little more than half way down/across the top and
side. Then rotate the door 90degrees in the jig and repeat 3x per door.
Quick release cam hold-downs screwed to the jig would facilitate
efficient clamping.



Hey, thanks for doing that work. That's an interesting idea. I'll keep
it in mind when that project starts (again).

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 10:53:53 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
On Monday, January 22, 2018 at 10:36:09 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

As best I understand, your doors are already built, right? And you want to chamfer the inside panel frame edges, right? You need, or looking for, a non-bearing bit whose profile is 45°, right?

No, Yes and Yes. ;-)

The doors for the current bookcase project is are already built and the
chamfers have been done. In fact, they are ready for primer.


Also, if so, I suppose you are using a hand held router, aligning auxiliary fence(s) for guidance.

Maybe. For the bookcase doors I used a router table, did the chamfers before
assembly and then "fixed" the corners with RockHard and a chisel.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

As far as the doors for the rest of the kitchen, depending on which of
the various solutions I've been offered, I may indeed be using a handheld
router.



I can mail you this one. You'd need to SLOW grind the profile, a little, to make it 45°. When grinding, make sure its ground equally, so that the bit is balanced. When done, mail it back to me. Is my initial assumptions (as to presently assembled doors) correct... if so, is this bit an option for you? The bit is 1/2" shaft.

I appreciate the offer, but I'm going to respectfully pass. I think I have
enough viable options to get it done. I may even go as far as changing the
profile slightly to use available cope-and-stick sets such as Infinity offers.
The bookcase set I am building for the kitchen will not be near the rest of
the cabinets and might not even be painted the same color. The doors will
still be shaker-ish, but I don't think that a slightly different (and faster
to make) profile will be a problem.



Couple of pics, scroll right: https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

I might have another bit that I could give you, though it'd require more grinding, than the pictured one. I'll have to look further for another one.

Thanks, but don't trouble yourself.

Seriously, thank you very much for the offer.


Sonny