How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.

On 1/22/18 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


http://www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-...cutter-bit-set


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:26:26 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/22/18 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


http://www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-...cutter-bit-set



That bit looks like it cuts the chamfer all the way down to the slot. Do you know if the
bits come apart so that you can use washers to make a shallower chamfer and leave
some "flat" wood between the chamfer and the panel?

On 1/22/2018 11:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:26:26 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/22/18 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


http://www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-...cutter-bit-set



That bit looks like it cuts the chamfer all the way down to the slot. Do you know if the
bits come apart so that you can use washers to make a shallower chamfer and leave
some "flat" wood between the chamfer and the panel?


It would depend on the set. With some sets adding washers or
repositioning a cutter results in a misfit. IIRC some sets allow this.
It appears that if you shim a cutter to leave a flat space you may end
up having to make a double pass with or with out some cutters. IMHO
running a second pass may ruin the profile or allow a loose fit. I
would look for a bit set that matches you needs with out extra set up.

On 1/22/18 11:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:26:26 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/22/18 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


http://www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-...cutter-bit-set



That bit looks like it cuts the chamfer all the way down to the slot. Do you know if the
bits come apart so that you can use washers to make a shallower chamfer and leave
some "flat" wood between the chamfer and the panel?


https://www.toolstoday.com/2-piece-shaker-stile-rail-router-bit-set-58-78-inch-material.html


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 10:25:22 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/22/18 11:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:26:26 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/22/18 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


http://www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-...cutter-bit-set



That bit looks like it cuts the chamfer all the way down to the slot. Do you know if the
bits come apart so that you can use washers to make a shallower chamfer and leave
some "flat" wood between the chamfer and the panel?


https://www.toolstoday.com/2-piece-shaker-stile-rail-router-bit-set-58-78-inch-material.html



That's the opposite of what I am trying to achieve. Can you move the flat section down
so that it is next to the panel and the chamfer starts at the face of the frame? Thanks! ;-)

On Monday, January 22, 2018 at 11:26:26 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:


http://www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-...cutter-bit-set


And one of Roy Underhill's programs demonstrates how to produce a similar beveled or curved, mating edge (making window sashes) using hand planes. In Roy's demo, one small part of the tenon is shaved (cut off) to accommodate a space needed for the full mating, otherwise, the concept (profile-making) is essentially the same.

When using a router bit, try to make sure you can mark your board, exactly, and score the cut line with a razor edge, such that, there is little to no tear out along the facing's back-beveled edge. A sharp router bit helps prevent tear out, of course. Depending on your lumber, that beveled edge could have some tear out, so take note of this possibility.

In Roy's demo, not only does he score this cut/bevel edge line, but he hand cuts the bevel, a bit, before using the hand plane. This can be seen in this video, at the 4:15 through 5:00 time. Though you may not make a beveled cut, you might want to consider, at least, scoring your cut line, this way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BnXq6JlZbc

You had mentioned having hand re-positioning issues, using the router, on a previous project. Possibly, any subsequent hand re-positioning issues may compound a tear out issue. A score line might help prevent this.

*Re-positioning your hands may not come into play, as I suppose a miter gauge would be used for stability, when routing the ends of a board, this way.

Not trying to be redundant, but score lines have often save my efforts on even the simplest of cuts, so I try to use them on 'most everything.

Sonny

On 1/22/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

Yes.



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

Not http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

A lot more work.



I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


See Mike's link. Rail and stile router bits come in all styles.

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:46:35 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/22/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

Yes.



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

Not http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

A lot more work.



I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


See Mike's link. Rail and stile router bits come in all styles.

Mike's link is a start, but I'll keep looking. I don't think that bit - unless it's adjustable with
washers - is the same profile. That appears to be a full chamfer while the style I'm looking for
is shallower.

On 1/23/2018 5:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:46:35 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/22/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

Yes.



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

Not http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

A lot more work.



I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


See Mike's link. Rail and stile router bits come in all styles.

Mike's link is a start, but I'll keep looking. I don't think that bit - unless it's adjustable with
washers - is the same profile. That appears to be a full chamfer while the style I'm looking for
is shallower.


Look here

https://www.infinitytools.com/routin...-cabinet-doors


Now look at the profile pictures below the big picture of the bit set.
Go to set 91-504. Scroll down to the pricing of that set. $89.00
including a set up block.

FWIW I do not use set up blocks. On scraps I adjust the height of the
bit to what I want in appearance and then when coping the ends of the
rails I test on a scrap to fit the stiles.

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 10:16:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/23/2018 5:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:46:35 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/22/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

Yes.



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

Not http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

A lot more work.



I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


See Mike's link. Rail and stile router bits come in all styles.

Mike's link is a start, but I'll keep looking. I don't think that bit - unless it's adjustable with
washers - is the same profile. That appears to be a full chamfer while the style I'm looking for
is shallower.


Look here

https://www.infinitytools.com/routin...-cabinet-doors


Now look at the profile pictures below the big picture of the bit set.
Go to set 91-504. Scroll down to the pricing of that set. $89.00
including a set up block.

Thanks, but 91-504 is not the profile I am trying to achieve. That profile appears to
be flat-chamfer-flat. I'm looking for chamfer-flat.

If you look closely at this image, you will see that the chamfer starts on the outside face of
frame and ends part way down the inside edge of the frame. Imagine that instead of just
softening the inside edge of the frame with a quick sanding, I want to chamfer that edge
about halfway down towards the panel.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

I could probably set the height of that bit to eliminate the outer flat section, but that would
move the groove up also and I'd lose the reveal that I am going for - unless the bit is
adjustable via washers - which it does not appear to be.

On 1/23/2018 9:47 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 10:16:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/23/2018 5:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 12:46:35 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/22/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Full link:

https://www.homecrestcabinetry.com/-...or_natural.jpg

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a
matching "inside chamfer" (?) on the ends of the rails to create the
crisp corner?

Yes.



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

Not http://www.wooditis.com/attention-to-detail/

A lot more work.



I'm sure hoping that there is some router table/table saw trick that
I don't know about.


See Mike's link. Rail and stile router bits come in all styles.

Mike's link is a start, but I'll keep looking. I don't think that bit - unless it's adjustable with
washers - is the same profile. That appears to be a full chamfer while the style I'm looking for
is shallower.


Look here

https://www.infinitytools.com/routin...-cabinet-doors


Now look at the profile pictures below the big picture of the bit set.
Go to set 91-504. Scroll down to the pricing of that set. $89.00
including a set up block.

Thanks, but 91-504 is not the profile I am trying to achieve. That profile appears to
be flat-chamfer-flat. I'm looking for chamfer-flat.

Understood, adjust the cutter up about 1/16".


If you look closely at this image, you will see that the chamfer starts on the outside face of
frame and ends part way down the inside edge of the frame. Imagine that instead of just
softening the inside edge of the frame with a quick sanding, I want to chamfer that edge
about halfway down towards the panel.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor

Understood, see above.




I could probably set the height of that bit to eliminate the outer flat section, but that would
move the groove up also and I'd lose the reveal that I am going for - unless the bit is
adjustable via washers - which it does not appear to be.


Correct! But I think the groove would only be 1/16" closer to the face
of the frame if you raised the bit 1/16" to eliminate the top flat area
just before the chamfer begins. If you are using flat panels for the
door inserts it might be hard to tell the difference.
And maybe you want more flat below the chamfer, that would certainly
require a different bit.

BUT, basically I wanted to show you that this is the style bit you are
looking for.

Give Infinity a call, IIRC they are a small spin off company, son of the
owner of the original Jaseda bit company.

On Monday, January 22, 2018 at 10:36:09 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

As best I understand, your doors are already built, right? And you want to chamfer the inside panel frame edges, right? You need, or looking for, a non-bearing bit whose profile is 45°, right?

Also, if so, I suppose you are using a hand held router, aligning auxiliary fence(s) for guidance.

I can mail you this one. You'd need to SLOW grind the profile, a little, to make it 45°. When grinding, make sure its ground equally, so that the bit is balanced. When done, mail it back to me. Is my initial assumptions (as to presently assembled doors) correct... if so, is this bit an option for you? The bit is 1/2" shaft.

Couple of pics, scroll right: https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

I might have another bit that I could give you, though it'd require more grinding, than the pictured one. I'll have to look further for another one.

Sonny

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 9:53:53 AM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:


Couple of pics, scroll right: https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/


This profile seems about 30°..... I didn't try to measure it. This profile might be good enough, as is, no grinding.

Sonny

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 10:53:53 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
On Monday, January 22, 2018 at 10:36:09 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How do you build doors like this one? Frame and panel, M&T joinery, inside
edge is chamfered.

https://tinyurl.com/ChamferDoor



This guys cleans up the corners after routing the assembled frame, but I
can't see (me) doing that for the 120+ corners I'd need to clean up for my
kitchen doors and drawers.

As best I understand, your doors are already built, right? And you want to chamfer the inside panel frame edges, right? You need, or looking for, a non-bearing bit whose profile is 45°, right?

No, Yes and Yes. ;-)

The doors for the current bookcase project is are already built and the
chamfers have been done. In fact, they are ready for primer.


Also, if so, I suppose you are using a hand held router, aligning auxiliary fence(s) for guidance.

Maybe. For the bookcase doors I used a router table, did the chamfers before
assembly and then "fixed" the corners with RockHard and a chisel.

https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg

As far as the doors for the rest of the kitchen, depending on which of
the various solutions I've been offered, I may indeed be using a handheld
router.



I can mail you this one. You'd need to SLOW grind the profile, a little, to make it 45°. When grinding, make sure its ground equally, so that the bit is balanced. When done, mail it back to me. Is my initial assumptions (as to presently assembled doors) correct... if so, is this bit an option for you? The bit is 1/2" shaft.

I appreciate the offer, but I'm going to respectfully pass. I think I have
enough viable options to get it done. I may even go as far as changing the
profile slightly to use available cope-and-stick sets such as Infinity offers.
The bookcase set I am building for the kitchen will not be near the rest of
the cabinets and might not even be painted the same color. The doors will
still be shaker-ish, but I don't think that a slightly different (and faster
to make) profile will be a problem.



Couple of pics, scroll right: https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

I might have another bit that I could give you, though it'd require more grinding, than the pictured one. I'll have to look further for another one.

Thanks, but don't trouble yourself.

Seriously, thank you very much for the offer.


Sonny