THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!
Tools don't make the man, but bad ones can sure unmake the man!!!

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

Make sure you install it in the right direction, too. DAMHIKT

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

AWESOME! Thanks for the feedback.

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 at 4:47:50 PM UTC-4, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

Perhaps you should post your solution in the original thread. You know, sort of close it out for
anyone who comes across that thread later on.

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On 4/5/2017 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

Make sure you install it in the right direction, too. DAMHIKT


You may joke about that, but I have a lefty porter cable and I did one
time put a ply blade (HSS) on backward. The smoke was outstanding as I
was cutting through a cabinet to cut the kickplate are off of it so I
could put it on wheels. Glad it was not carbide, as I am sure I would
have knocked them all off.

On my lefty saw, if you see he label, it's on wrong.

--
Jeff

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On 4/6/2017 1:04 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/5/2017 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length
cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

Make sure you install it in the right direction, too. DAMHIKT


You may joke about that, but I have a lefty porter cable and I did one
time put a ply blade (HSS) on backward. The smoke was outstanding as I
was cutting through a cabinet to cut the kickplate are off of it so I
could put it on wheels. Glad it was not carbide, as I am sure I would
have knocked them all off.

Yes being use to seeing the print on the blade will throw you off if you
are putting the blade on a backwards setup.

FWIW a siding and or steel building fabricators will use a carbide blade
backwards to get a smoother cut.



On my lefty saw, if you see he label, it's on wrong.

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 2:16:05 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

FWIW a siding and or steel building fabricators will use a carbide blade
backwards to get a smoother cut.

Quit hanging around with that kind of contractor!

Seriously, there are a lot better solutions than the old backwards blade trick. It doesn't work well with carbide blades anyway. At least not as well as when we did that with steel blades.

This is today's solution. Note that they aren't any more expensive that a moderately priced carbide blade for wood cutting:

Non ferrous: https://goo.gl/Ts0VS7

Ferrous: https://goo.gl/vBJdUq

They make blades that will dry cut ferrous materials up to 16 gauge! That's pushing 1/8". I actually discovered those a few years ago when a friend of mine told me that he had seen a show on barbecuing where there was a segment on making a pit from a propane tank. He told me he saw a guy "with a Skilsaw cutting a tank in two". He bought one of the blades and it chewed right through a propane tank!

Robert

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 2:05:09 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/5/2017 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

Make sure you install it in the right direction, too. DAMHIKT


You may joke about that, but I have a lefty porter cable and I did one
time put a ply blade (HSS) on backward. The smoke was outstanding...

BTDT

But I love my left handed PC saw.

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On 4/6/2017 3:15 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 2:16:05 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

FWIW a siding and or steel building fabricators will use a carbide blade
backwards to get a smoother cut.

Quit hanging around with that kind of contractor!

LOL..

I think I saw that on TOH.

Seriously, there are a lot better solutions than the old backwards blade trick. It doesn't work well with carbide blades anyway. At least not as well as when we did that with steel blades.

This is today's solution. Note that they aren't any more expensive that a moderately priced carbide blade for wood cutting:

Non ferrous: https://goo.gl/Ts0VS7

Ferrous: https://goo.gl/vBJdUq

They make blades that will dry cut ferrous materials up to 16 gauge! That's pushing 1/8". I actually discovered those a few years ago when a friend of mine told me that he had seen a show on barbecuing where there was a segment on making a pit from a propane tank. He told me he saw a guy "with a Skilsaw cutting a tank in two". He bought one of the blades and it chewed right through a propane tank!

Robert

THANK YOU (Help sawing straight)
 

On Thu, 6 Apr 2017 14:15:39 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2017 1:04 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/5/2017 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Apr 2017 13:47:48 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU Group.
Purchased new 6-1/2" blade (Irwin).
Solved all my problems. Cut jig and subsequently made 9 full length
cuts in 1-1/8" plywood for my stair treads (10-1/8" wide)
What a difference a sharp blade makes!

Make sure you install it in the right direction, too. DAMHIKT


You may joke about that, but I have a lefty porter cable and I did one
time put a ply blade (HSS) on backward. The smoke was outstanding as I
was cutting through a cabinet to cut the kickplate are off of it so I
could put it on wheels. Glad it was not carbide, as I am sure I would
have knocked them all off.

Yes being use to seeing the print on the blade will throw you off if you
are putting the blade on a backwards setup.

I don't go by the label anymore. It's easier to visualize the
rotation rather then remembering whether that saw is an innie or
outie.

FWIW a siding and or steel building fabricators will use a carbide blade
backwards to get a smoother cut.

Yes, I used my RAS to cut vinyl-clad aluminum siding for the addition
I built on my first house.


On my lefty saw, if you see he label, it's on wrong.