like the big arcade style switches on machines

easy to see and easy to hit and have a solid feel and sound

one concern is how they perform in a dusty environment

anyone here added arcade style switches to their equipment

On 12/6/2016 1:35 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

like the big arcade style switches on machines

easy to see and easy to hit and have a solid feel and sound

one concern is how they perform in a dusty environment

anyone here added arcade style switches to their equipment



WTF?


--
Jeff

In rec.woodworking, Electric Comet wrote:

like the big arcade style switches on machines

easy to see and easy to hit and have a solid feel and sound

one concern is how they perform in a dusty environment

anyone here added arcade style switches to their equipment

I have, but not to woodworking equipment. I replaced a power switch on
one of my computers, and also have used one for an alarm clock. The
arcade buttons are a plastic cap on a sealed Cherry D44X switch:

Technical drawing of arcade switch and enclosu
http://www.arcadespareparts.com/scre...254_12131.html

Datasheet on the Cherry D4 series
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dl/4...7987a91/P/d44x

These are reasonable well sealed and I expect would be fine in a high
dust environment.

Elijah
------
used to see D4 switches all the time in copiers and laser printers

On 12/6/2016 2:33 PM, Eli the Bearded wrote:
In rec.woodworking, Electric Comet wrote:

like the big arcade style switches on machines

easy to see and easy to hit and have a solid feel and sound

one concern is how they perform in a dusty environment

anyone here added arcade style switches to their equipment

I have, but not to woodworking equipment. I replaced a power switch on
one of my computers, and also have used one for an alarm clock. The
arcade buttons are a plastic cap on a sealed Cherry D44X switch:

Technical drawing of arcade switch and enclosu
http://www.arcadespareparts.com/scre...254_12131.html

Datasheet on the Cherry D4 series
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dl/4...7987a91/P/d44x

These are reasonable well sealed and I expect would be fine in a high
dust environment.

Elijah
------
used to see D4 switches all the time in copiers and laser printers


Thanks. I didn't think it was something like that.

I would think a better solution would be the Grizzly Magnetic switches
with both on and off and emergency shutoff (that won't restart until
reset (pulled out and twisted) )

I bought a bunch of them recently for $6.99

That ability to safely shut off if the power goes out is worth the price.

I notice they have 2 one for 110v and one for 120..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V...f-Switch/H8240


--
Jeff

In rec.woodworking, woodchucker wrote:
I would think a better solution would be the Grizzly Magnetic switches
with both on and off and emergency shutoff (that won't restart until
reset (pulled out and twisted) )

I bought a bunch of them recently for $6.99

Price is showing as $9.95 for me.

That ability to safely shut off if the power goes out is worth the price.

I notice they have 2 one for 110v and one for 120..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V...f-Switch/H8240

I looked at the linked manual, and checked the part numbers on the
switches inside. Curiously, you can buy the whole assembly for $9.95 (or
$6.99 or at the "Regular" price of $22.95), and included in that is one
KEDU HY57B which costs $26.25 on it's own:

http://www.grizzly.com/parts/P0632088

Elijah
------
hopes the switch feels solid at that price

On Tue, 6 Dec 2016 19:33:21 +0000 (UTC)
Eli the Bearded wrote:

I have, but not to woodworking equipment. I replaced a power switch on
one of my computers, and also have used one for an alarm clock. The
arcade buttons are a plastic cap on a sealed Cherry D44X switch:

they are popular for light switches now too
i recall push button wall switches in old houses so what is old is new
again

These are reasonable well sealed and I expect would be fine in a high
dust environment.

they do seem to be well made and will place them in an enclosure

have bought stuff like this from digikey but that site has decent prices

lot of shapes and color

On 12/6/2016 4:43 PM, Eli the Bearded wrote:
In rec.woodworking, woodchucker wrote:
I would think a better solution would be the Grizzly Magnetic switches
with both on and off and emergency shutoff (that won't restart until
reset (pulled out and twisted) )

I bought a bunch of them recently for $6.99

Price is showing as $9.95 for me.

That ability to safely shut off if the power goes out is worth the price.

I notice they have 2 one for 110v and one for 120..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V...f-Switch/H8240

I looked at the linked manual, and checked the part numbers on the
switches inside. Curiously, you can buy the whole assembly for $9.95 (or
$6.99 or at the "Regular" price of $22.95), and included in that is one
KEDU HY57B which costs $26.25 on it's own:

http://www.grizzly.com/parts/P0632088

Elijah
------
hopes the switch feels solid at that price

yes they are 9.95 now, they've been on sale twice in the 6 months.
The 22.95 is labeled Shop fox, while the 9.95 is grizzly. The griz says
110v while the shop fox is 120v but the will handle 120. It's all about
the amps, not the 10v.

--
Jeff

In rec.woodworking, woodchucker wrote:
yes they are 9.95 now, they've been on sale twice in the 6 months.
The 22.95 is labeled Shop fox, while the 9.95 is grizzly. The griz says
110v while the shop fox is 120v but the will handle 120. It's all about
the amps, not the 10v.

Quite often a 120V/20A rated switch is also suitable for 240V/10A. There
would appear to be a somewhat linear relationship for V to A ratings in
the range of ~100V to ~400V. Going to further extremes might not be
recommended. My first year physics rule of thumb was 100V per millimeter
of spark, so with higher voltages sparks cover larger air-gaps. And with
higher amps at low voltages there would be heat problems.

Elijah
------
and the ozone from those sparks smells awful

On 12/7/16 5:56 PM, Eli the Bearded wrote:
In rec.woodworking, woodchucker wrote:
yes they are 9.95 now, they've been on sale twice in the 6 months.
The 22.95 is labeled Shop fox, while the 9.95 is grizzly. The griz says
110v while the shop fox is 120v but the will handle 120. It's all about
the amps, not the 10v.

Quite often a 120V/20A rated switch is also suitable for 240V/10A. There
would appear to be a somewhat linear relationship for V to A ratings in
the range of ~100V to ~400V. Going to further extremes might not be
recommended. My first year physics rule of thumb was 100V per millimeter
of spark, so with higher voltages sparks cover larger air-gaps. And with
higher amps at low voltages there would be heat problems.

Elijah
------
and the ozone from those sparks smells awful



The 120V/20A versus 240V/10A is a clue (volts*current=power)

They are saying that the switch is rated for 2400 Watts, but that is
counter intuitive to the application when you are shopping for a switch
that can handle x Amps.

The contact separation rule is spot-on for upper voltage limits (usually
up to 600V before things really need to be redesigned for the gap).

Then there is the load type being switched, motors being among the worst
loads.

-BR