Learning as I go along and heed advice from many fine crafters in here,
I arise upon a very minor issue. I made a few projects using my black
walnut and used tung oil as a finish/stain. I know many people have used
tung oil and nothing more. After a few days of application, the wood
still feels a bit oily to the touch. Is this common and will it dry
completely or should I put another finish such as Shellac, Lacquer,
Poly, etc. to coat over it?

Thanks

On 7/7/2016 4:51 PM, Meanie wrote:
Learning as I go along and heed advice from many fine crafters in here,
I arise upon a very minor issue. I made a few projects using my black
walnut and used tung oil as a finish/stain. I know many people have used
tung oil and nothing more. After a few days of application, the wood
still feels a bit oily to the touch. Is this common and will it dry
completely or should I put another finish such as Shellac, Lacquer,
Poly, etc. to coat over it?

Thanks

Tung takes a long time to dry. I hope you wiped off the excess. It will
eventualy dry.

No you can't topcoat it with Shellac, or Lacquer, until it is dry.
An oil based poly I am not sure about. I don't use Tung any longer, and
never liked Poly except in some extreme circumstances.

--
Jeff

On 07/07/2016 3:51 PM, Meanie wrote:
Learning as I go along and heed advice from many fine crafters in here,
I arise upon a very minor issue. I made a few projects using my black
walnut and used tung oil as a finish/stain. I know many people have used
tung oil and nothing more. After a few days of application, the wood
still feels a bit oily to the touch. Is this common and will it dry
completely or should I put another finish such as Shellac, Lacquer,
Poly, etc. to coat over it?

Which tung oil product in particular did you use? If it was one of the
pure oils w/o any driers, it may take a couple of weeks minimum if you
didn't thin it.

Rub it out with just a little on a rag to keep it where it will move,
not stick and keep rubbing down frequently will help some.

But, w/o the driers it's a _slow_ process; humidity will only prolong
(altho it doesn't really "dry" in the sense of evaporation, it form
polymer cross-links and cures.

--

"Meanie" wrote in message
...
Learning as I go along and heed advice from many fine crafters in here, I
arise upon a very minor issue. I made a few projects using my black walnut
and used tung oil as a finish/stain. I know many people have used tung oil
and nothing more. After a few days of application, the wood still feels a
bit oily to the touch. Is this common and will it dry completely or should
I put another finish such as Shellac, Lacquer, Poly, etc. to coat over
it?

Thanks

It will eventually dry assuming you wiped off all you could when you applied
it. If you didn't it will still dry but will be gummy.

How many coats have you applied? Tung oil makes a decent finish but it
requires multiple coats, multiple being 4 minimum (IMO) and as many as you
care to apply to get the look you want.

"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats unless
there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before another coat.

"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats; hell you
want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?

Thank you gents.

I used 100% pure which I bought from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I had a feeling about the humidity as it sat in for a few days and I did
wipe the excess. I brought it into the house and I'll let it dry out
completely.

On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 16:51:35 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Learning as I go along and heed advice from many fine crafters in here,
I arise upon a very minor issue. I made a few projects using my black
walnut and used tung oil as a finish/stain. I know many people have used
tung oil and nothing more. After a few days of application, the wood
still feels a bit oily to the touch. Is this common and will it dry
completely or should I put another finish such as Shellac, Lacquer,
Poly, etc. to coat over it?

Thanks


See below - quoted from the " Tech " link on this web page :

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,190,42942

Pure or Polymerized
Unless you are finishing a food-contact item like a salad bowl or
spoon, your choice should be polymerized tung. Not only does it dry
much faster, but you can use it to create finishes that range from
nearly matte to high luster.

John T.

"dadiOH" wrote in :

"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats
unless there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before
another coat.

"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats;
hell you want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?

Interesting - I use linseed oil a lot more than Tung oil
(I think I've only ever once used Tung oil), and I've never
heard either of those two directives.

Needless to say, I don't sand and I don't thin. With linseed
oil, at least, most of it soaks into the wood, so there's not
that much to wipe off.

(I have heard it suggested that for open pore woods, oil and
sanding to fill the grain is a viable technique).

John

On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:02:29 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

How many coats have you applied? Tung oil makes a decent finish but it
requires multiple coats, multiple being 4 minimum (IMO) and as many as you
care to apply to get the look you want.

"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats unless
there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before another coat.

"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats; hell you
want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?

Wow, nicely done! The whole tung oil story of application in a nutshell.

I love the reasoning on NOT using full strength... preach it!

Robert

In article ,
" wrote:

On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:02:29 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

How many coats have you applied? Tung oil makes a decent finish but it
requires multiple coats, multiple being 4 minimum (IMO) and as many as you
care to apply to get the look you want.

"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats unless
there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before another coat.

"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats; hell you
want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?

Wow, nicely done! The whole tung oil story of application in a nutshell.

I love the reasoning on NOT using full strength... preach it!

The writeup for using Epifanes spar varnish, intended for boat decks
and spars, is useful. This varnish contains Tung oil, and a few other
such things, in naptha (not water).

The intent is to fill the pores fairly deeply, ending up with smooth
glossy surface with optical and physical depth. The dilute mix soaks
in more deeply than full strength can.

..http://www.epifanes.com

Joe Gwinn

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:02:29 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

How many coats have you applied? Tung oil makes a decent finish but it
requires multiple coats, multiple being 4 minimum (IMO) and as many as
you
care to apply to get the look you want.

"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats unless
there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before another
coat.

"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats; hell
you
want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?

Wow, nicely done! The whole tung oil story of application in a nutshell.

I love the reasoning on NOT using full strength... preach it!

I am both lazy and frugal

On 7/8/2016 12:04 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:02:29 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

How many coats have you applied? Tung oil makes a decent finish but it
requires multiple coats, multiple being 4 minimum (IMO) and as many as you
care to apply to get the look you want.

"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats unless
there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before another coat.

"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats; hell you
want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?

Wow, nicely done! The whole tung oil story of application in a nutshell.

I love the reasoning on NOT using full strength... preach it!

Two more posts added (172 total) to the 'research notes' on your "book"
on finishing.

Your curator ...

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Friday, July 8, 2016 at 3:29:06 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

Two more posts added (172 total) to the 'research notes' on your "book"
on finishing.

Your curator ...

Wow... I had no idea!

You know, one day I might just get those from you and put something together. There always seems to be a need. I am working now to get a contract to oversee (schedule and consult) on a large remodel. I don't have the time to do it personally as I am covered with all the hail damage work I can do now.

But it is a nice job, and the painting contractors the client interviewed are frankly, lost on refinishing. They know nothing about "industrial grade" enamels, little about prep, and their product knowledge is limited only to their favorite supplier, which is most cases is Sherwin Williams because they have a free Keurig machine in every store.

The cabinet refinish (there are three wall to wall units that total about 40'X9, a bathroom vanity, and lot of kitchen cabs that are in the mix. The total overhaul on the cabinets finished the way they should be with new hardware installed will probably be about $20 - 25 thousand. They are all solid white oak (oak ply carcass/shelves)from about 25 or more years ago, so in my opinion worth saving. Due to the layout of the rooms, if new cabinets were to be made and installed, they would go back almost exactly the way they are now, just with lesser quality material and a three month wait time on the cabs themselves. They they would need to be installed and finished as well. Savings by refinishing is enormous, and the painter will be able to put a handful of cash in his pocket if he does it right.

Sadly, they hardly know where to start. I am negotiating with the client now to see if he wants me to write the specs and materials just for the refinishing.

I am surrounded by latex slingers. Anything these guys know about oils, long oils, enamels, deglossers, etc., is all folklore. What a shame. About ten years ago, Sherwin Williams gave FREE classes on how to use their products, and fed you a hot dog at lunch, and an additional 10% off any industrial grade product you bought (in addition to your normal discount)for the next 30 days.

They canceled all the classes because not enough people attended. Not just here, but wherever SW sells their products and has an industrial division.

wrote in message
...
On Friday, July 8, 2016 at 3:29:06 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

Two more posts added (172 total) to the 'research notes' on your "book"
on finishing.

Your curator ...

Wow... I had no idea!

You know, one day I might just get those from you and put something
together. There always seems to be a need. I am working now to get a
contract to oversee (schedule and consult) on a large remodel. I don't
have the time to do it personally as I am covered with all the hail damage
work I can do now.

But it is a nice job, and the painting contractors the client interviewed
are frankly, lost on refinishing. They know nothing about "industrial
grade" enamels, little about prep, and their product knowledge is limited
only to their favorite supplier, which is most cases is Sherwin Williams
because they have a free Keurig machine in every store.

The cabinet refinish (there are three wall to wall units that total about
40'X9, a bathroom vanity, and lot of kitchen cabs that are in the mix.
The total overhaul on the cabinets finished the way they should be with
new hardware installed will probably be about $20 - 25 thousand. They are
all solid white oak (oak ply carcass/shelves)from about 25 or more years
ago, so in my opinion worth saving. Due to the layout of the rooms, if
new cabinets were to be made and installed, they would go back almost
exactly the way they are now, just with lesser quality material and a
three month wait time on the cabs themselves. They they would need to be
installed and finished as well. Savings by refinishing is enormous, and
the painter will be able to put a handful of cash in his pocket if he does
it right.

Sadly, they hardly know where to start. I am negotiating with the client
now to see if he wants me to write the specs and materials just for the
refinishing.

I am surrounded by latex slingers. Anything these guys know about oils,
long oils, enamels, deglossers, etc., is all folklore. What a shame.
About ten years ago, Sherwin Williams gave FREE classes on how to use
their products, and fed you a hot dog at lunch, and an additional 10% off
any industrial grade product you bought (in addition to your normal
discount)for the next 30 days.

They canceled all the classes because not enough people attended. Not
just here, but wherever SW sells their products and has an industrial
division.

The thing that keeps me from putting my thoughts all in one basket is that
while probably ten people on this earth would read it, at that rate it
would be easier for them just to call me!

Although, one day you should show me those posts. I have kept exactly
none of them.

Robert

Robert, As an old marketing research guy, I have an idea that I have
actually seen done many years ago. If in fact, there is an "industrial"
category, division, etc., there would be a great interest in getting word of
that out. If you were to write something up in a digital format, think
Kindle, you could put something together fairly quickly. It does not have
to be a big book. In fact it could be deliberately small to "introduce the
concept" The concept being there are other finishes in the world besides
cheap latex. You could even have a humorous title about that, (Anything but
Latex!)

It could even start a movement! Anything but Latex!

It then would become universally available, for a very reasonable price. If
more info was required to cover any particular topic, then another volume
could be made. Just sneak it out there, get a few good reviews and let the
finish/paint company find out from the market. They will go to bat for you
to promote the product. Even buy large quantities from you to sell/promote
that industrial line.

I worked many years ago with a software coding guy who wrote a book that few
people on the planet understood. He never sold a copy. He just sent it out
everywhere to the heads of the coding departments of many companies. They
took a look at it and decided that he knew what he was talking about. And
they paid $2,000 a head to send their coders to his seminars. It was
referred to as Expertise Marketing. You could even conduct a few seminars
yourself. Maybe even do some things for the finish companies themselves.
Real expertise, delivered in a folksy way is strong marketing. It would
probable pay well too. (Although it probably could not compete with hail
damage. ;-)

Think outside of the box Robert. You have the expertise. It is just a
matter of figuring out how to capitalize on it.

My two cents, Lee

On 7/11/2016 4:06 PM, wrote:
They are all solid white oak (oak ply carcass/shelves)from about 25 or more years ago, so in my opinion worth saving. Due to the layout of the rooms, if new cabinets were to be made and installed, they would go back almost exactly the way they are now, just with lesser quality material and a three month wait time on the cabs themselves.

I've found myself talking clients out of new cabinets for that very reason.

Also, when I redid our lake house kitchen in AR, I decided to repair,
rather than replace. No matter how much I tried I could not get anymore
mileage with regard to usable space, and look and feel remained the same.

About ten years ago, Sherwin Williams gave FREE classes on how to use their products, and fed you a hot dog at lunch, and an additional 10% off any industrial grade product you bought (in addition to your normal discount)for the next 30 days.

Seems we've really lost an entire generation of experienced based wisdom
in SW stores in this neck of the woods. To the point I find myself going
elsewhere.

Have to wait in line way too long just talk to some numbnut millennial,
with no experience and with whom it is a tossup if they can even spell
paint. AAMOF, the new "manager" of one of the SW stores, in a trendy
location, is a young female, without a clue, but who fits right in with
the local soccer moms looking for fashion advice in color choices.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)