Im gonaa buy a Japanese pull saw fer making finger/dovetail joints.
I'll be using them on 1/2" thk baltic birch plywood to make kitchen drawer
boxes. I'll start w/ finger joints and proceed to dovetails as I improve. Which
douzuki saw do you ppl recommend? I've been eying this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=pd_cp_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=12J2QN1E6RHDX0ZR4R3 2#Ask

I was gonna order a Z saw, but one of the reviewers strongly
recommended a Gyokucho over a Z saw.

nb

On 27/04/2016 8:35 AM, notbob wrote:
Im gonaa buy a Japanese pull saw fer making finger/dovetail joints.
I'll be using them on 1/2" thk baltic birch plywood to make kitchen drawer
boxes. I'll start w/ finger joints and proceed to dovetails as I improve. Which
douzuki saw do you ppl recommend? I've been eying this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=pd_cp_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=12J2QN1E6RHDX0ZR4R3 2#Ask

I was gonna order a Z saw, but one of the reviewers strongly
recommended a Gyokucho over a Z saw.

nb

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

On 2016-04-28, graham wrote:

On 27/04/2016 8:35 AM, notbob wrote:

I was gonna order a Z saw, but one of the reviewers strongly
recommended a Gyokucho over a Z saw.

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

Thank you for yer reply. I'm gonna get it!

nb

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:53:58 -0600
graham wrote:

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

what kind of steel is it do you know

bought a really cheap dovetail and have to keep it wrapped in plastic
to prevent rust

left it out in the shop after first use for a week and it was showing
rust signs

On 28/04/2016 1:06 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-04-28, graham wrote:

On 27/04/2016 8:35 AM, notbob wrote:

I was gonna order a Z saw, but one of the reviewers strongly
recommended a Gyokucho over a Z saw.

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

Thank you for yer reply. I'm gonna get it!

nb


Try cutting with the saw vertically until you get used to the cut on the
pull.

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:17:55 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:53:58 -0600
graham wrote:

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

what kind of steel is it do you know

bought a really cheap dovetail and have to keep it wrapped in plastic
to prevent rust

left it out in the shop after first use for a week and it was showing
rust signs

3 mistakes as I see it (strictly my opinions, not based on deep research or decades/scores of experience...

1. Buying a cheap saw: what did you expect?
2. Wrapping in plastic: needs to breathe so moisture has an opportunity to escape. Covering in plastic is altogether different
3. Leaving in the "shop": Should be in a drawer with either a desiccant or dehumidifier
Otherwise, good job, well done

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 4:53:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:17:55 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:53:58 -0600
graham wrote:

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

what kind of steel is it do you know

bought a really cheap dovetail and have to keep it wrapped in plastic
to prevent rust

left it out in the shop after first use for a week and it was showing
rust signs

3 mistakes as I see it (strictly my opinions, not based on deep research or decades/scores of experience...

1. Buying a cheap saw: what did you expect?
2. Wrapping in plastic: needs to breathe so moisture has an opportunity to escape. Covering in plastic is altogether different
3. Leaving in the "shop": Should be in a drawer with either a desiccant or dehumidifier
Otherwise, good job, well done

Wait. EC purchased a cheap dovetail. I have never seen one rust. Hmmm

On 27 Apr 2016 14:35:24 GMT, notbob wrote:

Im gonaa buy a Japanese pull saw fer making finger/dovetail joints.
I'll be using them on 1/2" thk baltic birch plywood to make kitchen drawer
boxes. I'll start w/ finger joints and proceed to dovetails as I improve. Which
douzuki saw do you ppl recommend? I've been eying this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=pd_cp_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=12J2QN1E6RHDX0ZR4R3 2#Ask

I was gonna order a Z saw, but one of the reviewers strongly
recommended a Gyokucho over a Z saw.

nb



Lee Valley carries a couple models at that price-point ...
If you are near a store - you might be able to try one out ..

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,42898&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,42898&ap=1

John T.

On 28/04/2016 1:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:53:58 -0600
graham wrote:

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

what kind of steel is it do you know

bought a really cheap dovetail and have to keep it wrapped in plastic
to prevent rust

left it out in the shop after first use for a week and it was showing
rust signs

Many years ago, I bought a top of the line, Spear & Jackson,
Sheffield made, brass backed tenon saw. To protect the teeth during a move,
I used a plastic guard, slipped over them. A few months later I noticed
a line of corrosion where the plastic was in contact with the steel. I
think that not all plastics are completely neutral.
Graham

On 4/28/2016 9:13 PM, graham wrote:
On 28/04/2016 1:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:53:58 -0600
graham wrote:

I have this saw, or one virtually identical, that I bought for
dovetails. I don't think you can go wrong.

what kind of steel is it do you know

bought a really cheap dovetail and have to keep it wrapped in plastic
to prevent rust

left it out in the shop after first use for a week and it was showing
rust signs

Many years ago, I bought a top of the line, Spear & Jackson,
Sheffield made, brass backed tenon saw. To protect the teeth during a move,
I used a plastic guard, slipped over them. A few months later I noticed
a line of corrosion where the plastic was in contact with the steel. I
think that not all plastics are completely neutral.
Graham


That or the plastic captured moisture/condensation and would not let it
escape.

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 20:13:30 -0600
graham wrote:

Many years ago, I bought a top of the line, Spear & Jackson,
Sheffield made, brass backed tenon saw. To protect the teeth during a
move, I used a plastic guard, slipped over them. A few months later I
noticed a line of corrosion where the plastic was in contact with the
steel. I think that not all plastics are completely neutral.

yes probably true
i keep it inside the bubble wrap that it came with and it seems to
protect it