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#1
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New job
About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/
mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress |
#2
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New job
On 11/12/15 3:43 PM, Leon wrote:
About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress Mmmm-mmm, that sho iz purdy! I'm just wondering how the hell you did all that without curved cauls. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#3
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New job
On 11/12/2015 4:15 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm just wondering how the hell you did all that without curved cauls. A rare commodity on the interwebz, SKILL, based on actual practice, experience and understanding. Not to be confused with mall ninja "skillz", based on Google and a keyboard. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#4
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New job
-MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/15 3:43 PM, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress Mmmm-mmm, that sho iz purdy! Thank you I'm just wondering how the hell you did all that without curved cauls. I use straight cauls on curves stock. :-) |
#5
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New job
On 11/12/2015 3:43 PM, Leon wrote:
About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. How many Bessy Revo's do you have now? -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#6
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New job
Swingman wrote:
On 11/12/2015 3:43 PM, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. How many Bessy Revo's do you have now? 3-1/2 pair. :-) |
#7
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New job
On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hides the character of the grain. The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv It looks very cherry though. I like it. |
#8
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New job
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote: First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hides the character of the grain. The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv It looks very cherry though. I like it. Thank you Ed. it does not look quite so red in person and my oil based varnish is toning that down a bit. |
#9
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New job. Out of the clamps.
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#10
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New job. Out of the clamps.
On 11/12/2015 6:33 PM, Leon wrote:
Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 Damn, I love mahogany ... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#11
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New job. Out of the clamps.
Leon wrote:
Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 You are probably having second thoughts about selling this one! Nice! |
#12
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New job. Out of the clamps.
Bill wrote:
Leon wrote: Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 You are probably having second thoughts about selling this one! Nice! Actually I have an old mahogany side table that I remember from about the age of 2. It needs go be refinished and I'll probably do it in the same color. Thanks! |
#13
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New job. Out of the clamps.
On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:33:27 -0600, Leon wrote:
Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 That's gorgeous! |
#14
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New job. Out of the clamps.
krw wrote:
On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:33:27 -0600, Leon wrote: Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 That's gorgeous! Thank you! |
#15
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New job. Out of the clamps.
Leon wrote:
Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 I feel much better to see I am not the only one who uses his table saw for other things than just sawing. Fine work. -- GW Ross Tact: making a point without making an enemy. |
#16
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New job. Out of the clamps.
G. Ross wrote:
Leon wrote: Out of the clamps an the first coat of varnish. https://flic.kr/p/A4dMUV https://flic.kr/p/An9fU2 I feel much better to see I am not the only one who uses his table saw for other things than just sawing. :-) It is a flat surface that helps to kerf every thing straight during glue up. And while it is up there you might as well apply varnish. Fine work. Thank you. |
#17
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New job
On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress When I think georgian cherry stain for some reason I think of Bartley Stains. Nice looking color. I'll hold off on the accolades until I see i complete. :-) -- Jeff |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New job
woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress When I think georgian cherry stain for some reason I think of Bartley Stains. General Finishes gel stain Nice looking color. I'll hold off on the accolades until I see i complete. :-) OK. :-) |
#19
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New job
Leon wrote in
: The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Mahogany plywood is often intended for marine use, and thus is made to BS1088 or similar specs. Much higher quality stuff than what the mills would otherwise make. Just for curiousity, who's the vendor? Boulter Plywood in Massachuesets is a good place for quality plywood. John |
#20
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New job
On 11/13/2015 8:18 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon wrote in : The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Mahogany plywood is often intended for marine use, and thus is made to BS1088 or similar specs. Much higher quality stuff than what the mills would otherwise mak Just for curiousity, who's the vendor? Boulter Plywood in Massachuesets is a good place for quality plywood. John I don't think it is marine, look here for spec. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ |
#21
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New job
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: On 11/13/2015 8:18 AM, John McCoy wrote: Mahogany plywood is often intended for marine use, and thus is made to BS1088 or similar specs. Much higher quality stuff than what the mills would otherwise make I don't think it is marine, look here for spec. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ I agree - those inner plys are far too thick to be marine grade. John |
#22
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New job
On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood? |
#24
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New job
On 11/13/15 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, wrote: On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood? yes First off they have a lot of mahogany furniture with a red-ish dark stain. Cherry looks nothing like mahogany, much more like maple especially when fresh surfaced and it really turns more of a brown than red. At least the cherry that we get in the Houston area. Walnut on bottom, cherry on top, cedar inside. Thank you Swingman for use of the picture. ;~) http://www.custommade.com/hope-chest/by/ewoodshop/ And these are cherry, they have darkened considerably over the last 6 years though. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ And the oval sided base of the finial, just under the pointed oak piece is cherry. It too had darkened considerably over the last 6 years. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ Mostly the grain was what I/we were after. Hence the old joke, "what color are you painting that cherry wood?" The general public has no concept whatsoever what cherry really is or looks like. There should be a law forcing the furniture and finish industries to use an asterisk next to the word every time they use it when referring to that reddish color instead of the natural patina occurs when cherry is left natural. Most people also probably think cherries taste like Kool-Aid. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#25
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New job
On 11/13/2015 10:42 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/13/15 10:26 AM, Leon wrote: On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, wrote: On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood? yes First off they have a lot of mahogany furniture with a red-ish dark stain. Cherry looks nothing like mahogany, much more like maple especially when fresh surfaced and it really turns more of a brown than red. At least the cherry that we get in the Houston area. Walnut on bottom, cherry on top, cedar inside. Thank you Swingman for use of the picture. ;~) http://www.custommade.com/hope-chest/by/ewoodshop/ And these are cherry, they have darkened considerably over the last 6 years though. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ And the oval sided base of the finial, just under the pointed oak piece is cherry. It too had darkened considerably over the last 6 years. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ Mostly the grain was what I/we were after. Hence the old joke, "what color are you painting that cherry wood?" The general public has no concept whatsoever what cherry really is or looks like. There should be a law forcing the furniture and finish industries to use an asterisk next to the word every time they use it when referring to that reddish color instead of the natural patina occurs when cherry is left natural. Most people also probably think cherries taste like Kool-Aid. :-) IMHO if you are going to stain cherry you might want to consider staining maple instead. Hard maple is considerably harder and less expensive than cherry, at least down here. Let cherry age on its own, it needs no help. Unfortunately most furniture buyers don't want to wait for that look. My favorite color description is "fruitwood". What the heck color is that??? Add fly specks and you are half way there. ;~) Anyway not ragging on you Russel. You had a very valid question. |
#26
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New job
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: My favorite color description is "fruitwood". What the heck color is that??? Add fly specks and you are half way there. ;~) Well, it _should_ be a light pinkish brown. Apple trees, pear trees, plum trees and maybe some others all have lumber that's fairly similar in color. That said, I don't know that I've ever seen a wood stain that color. John |
#27
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New job
On 11/13/2015 12:44 PM, Leon wrote:
IMHO if you are going to stain cherry you might want to consider staining maple instead. Hard maple is considerably harder and less expensive than cherry, at least down here. I was under the impression that Maple didn't take stain very well. Wrong? Maybe different for Gel Stain? |
#28
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New job
If I were to guess, it was already red. Real cherry takes time to turn
red and mellow. I have a Grandfather clock in Cherry wood and I'll buy a new works for it before I think of tossing it. One could only hope to wash it in lye or like and not get stains or such. That turns it reddish. But has it's risks. Martin On 11/13/2015 10:07 AM, wrote: On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 3:43:09 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Is there a reason the customer or you chose mahogany to be stained cherry color instead of just using cherry plywood and wood? |
#29
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New job
On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote:
About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress I see no mention of solid wood. The face frame isn't ply also, is it? |
#30
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New job
On 11/13/2015 1:06 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 11/12/2015 4:43 PM, Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. First off the job calls for Georgian cherry stained mahogany. Normally I hate staining as it hdes the character of the drain. Mahogany has overly enthusiastic grain and typically can stand toning down so I am OK with that and that is what the customer wants. :-) The job calls for two 3/4" sheets of mahogany plywood and the material I got is excellent The panels had little to no voids,the ply's were consistent in thickness, and the outer veneer is thick enough to be viewed from its edge with out an electron microscope. OH! And it is FLAT Here it is https://flic.kr/p/AYEkVu The stained panels. https://flic.kr/p/B1Q6tv The front face frame going together. https://flic.kr/p/A3PkKY Bringing it altogether https://flic.kr/p/AXxF8S https://flic.kr/p/AHeMuo I'll post more with more progress I see no mention of solid wood. The face frame isn't ply also, is it? No, the front and back face frames are solid mahogany. In fact I bought 73 LF of 1x8 mahogany for the job. The tops, door frames, drawer frames will also be solid wood. |
#31
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New job
Posts trim dry fit and the top of the bottom cabinet glue up. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ 24 Dominos to insure alignment between the 4 boards |
#32
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New job
On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 15:43:06 -0600
Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. ambitious project how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them |
#33
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New job
On 11/14/2015 11:12 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 15:43:06 -0600 Leon wrote: About a year ago I designed a wide screen/ entertainment/faux fireplace/ mantle. This was for a repeat customer that was having her home remodeled and enlarged. Any way the remodeling is done and I got the go ahead to start the above mentioned piece. ambitious project Actually this is a small project compared to what I have been doing in the past 6~7 years. Easy and relatively small parts/components. how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade plywood. do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S. |
#34
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New job
On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:
how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade plywood. do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S. I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your preference to finish cut on the table saw? I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#35
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New job
On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote: how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade plywood. do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S. I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your preference to finish cut on the table saw? The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut is not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one edge on a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a consistency with its fixed fence that moving the track for each cut does not afford. This is important when every thing must be precice. I do have the Festool track positioning guides, thanks again Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of work to set up. If I had a lot of sheets to break down with the track saw the positioning guides would be used. Wish I had that set up about 7~8 years ago when Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to cut for the two kitchens that we built. I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw. The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade but not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have plywood blades for our Festool Track saws. IMHO that set up does not disappoint. With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are looking at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the TS75 and considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the length of standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and couplings to join the additional track to the track that comes with the saw. The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for me as the additional shorter track was much less expensive than the longer track. Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75 comes with a 75" track. |
#36
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New job
On 11/14/15 1:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 11/14/15 12:34 PM, Leon wrote: how much do the sheets weigh they sounds heavy In the 65lb each range, typical for cabinet quality or paint grade plywood. do you use the track saw or the table saw to cut them To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S. I would appreciate further explanation for this. Is it because the track saw doesn't yield finish quality results or is it just your preference to finish cut on the table saw? The track saw produces cuts equal to the TS so no, the quality of cut is not the reason for going to the TS. In fact often at least one edge on a piece was cut by the track saw. The TS offers a consistency with its fixed fence that moving the track for each cut does not afford. This is important when every thing must be precice. I do have the Festool track positioning guides, thanks again Swingman, but they tend to be a lot of work to set up. If I had a lot of sheets to break down with the track saw the positioning guides would be used. Wish I had that set up about 7~8 years ago when Swingman sent me home with 27 sheets of plywood to cut for the two kitchens that we built. I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw. The Festool track saws come with a standard blade, a quality blade but not the best for cutting plywood. IIRC Swingman and I both have plywood blades for our Festool Track saws. IMHO that set up does not disappoint. With that in mind, and I have mentioned this before, if you are looking at Festool, there is the TS75 and TS55. The bigger is the TS75 and considerably more expensive than the TS55. BUT to rip the length of standard sheet of plywood you need an additional track and couplings to join the additional track to the track that comes with the saw. The difference in price of the saws shrunk to about $100 for me as the additional shorter track was much less expensive than the longer track. Basically the TS55 saw comes with a 55" track, the TS75 comes with a 75" track. Thanks for that info, it is very helpful. I also fear using 2-part guides as they seem to *never* go together *perfectly* straight. Now, the ones I've attempted to use haven't been green in color, but I still get weary of spending that kind of green (PUN!) when the cut line might be a tad off. And when I say tad, I'm talking any fraction of an inch. To me, if it's not *perfectly* straight, it's not straight at all. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
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New job
On Saturday, November 14, 2015 at 12:55:08 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. -MIKE- Now's the time to write to Santa. Sonny |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New job
On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw. As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is excellent with a Festool plunge cut track saw. The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for precision production woodworking. Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy in initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've retrofitted to each guide stop to help in that regard). https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...2 57557388034 Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws won't give you the precision, or the repeatability. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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New job
On 11/15/15 10:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/14/2015 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote: I'm entertaining the idea of getting a track saw. However, if they don't produce a finished quality cut, that knowledge would help me make the decision to go with a cheaper track saw. As Leon said, nothing to do with the quality of cut, which is excellent with a Festool plunge cut track saw. The value of a fixed fence on a table saw, set once and used to batch cut all like dimensions before moving it, is hard to beat for precision production woodworking. Festool has this parallel guide rail system in the photo below, which will come close to accomplishing the same thing, but are a bit fussy in initial set up, and require diligence when using to maintain your settings. (you can see the small aluminum, support bars I've retrofitted to each guide stop to help in that regard). https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...2 57557388034 Still, quite sufficient for onsite use where most portable table saws won't give you the precision, or the repeatability. You should send that pic to Festool. I'm quite surprised, with their engineering prowess, that they didn't incorporate those support bars on the guide stops. I like the design of the rails being on the edges of the plywood to keep the saw guide square to the stock, but surely they could see that the whole thing would want to tip down if not being used on a large table top. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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New job
On Sat, 14 Nov 2015 12:34:10 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: To get them down to workable size I use the track saw, then the TS. I also use the track saw to straighten S2S lumber before cutting on the TS, when I buy S2S. when i first heard of a track saw this is the use i imagined if i was to get one wrestling large sheets like that is not easy |