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table saw push stick or push block or ???
Ed Pawlowski wrote in
: On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. How far back would the handle have to be? By the time it's back far enough to push the wood completely through the saw, wouldn't it tend to be rather cumbersome to handle? If you make the handle tall, then the hand can safely pass over the spinning parts to complete the cut. The cut isn't complete until the wood has passed by the blade completely, at least on the fence side. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 01 Aug 2015 21:28:18 GMT
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: If I need to hold the material against the fence at the same time I'm pushing through the blade, I usually use the rounded end of one push stick as a feather board and push with the other. I'm only using enough pressure to keep the material from wandering, not pushing it tight like you can with a feather board. want to try it with sandpaper to allow applying some pressure toward the fence too |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 01 Aug 2015 20:37:28 -0400
krw wrote: I have a couple fiberglass ones, one with a magnet in the handle. It's stuck to the side of the table, right next to the remote control for the dust collector (also stuck on with magnets). The other sits on top of the fence. I like them where they're handy (and I know where they are). like the idea of storing with a magnet i notice some newer saws have mounts for storing the miter sled |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 20:32:36 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote: your email is almost a palindrome if you had made it ogopogo around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes thru the notch into the board. this is what i was thinking when i made mine |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500
-MIKE- wrote: Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. do people apologize here for giving their opinions i had not noticed i use the push stick for small pieces |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/15 9:33 PM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks. Do you even know what a shoe/heel push block is and how it works? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/15 9:46 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote in : On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. How far back would the handle have to be? By the time it's back far enough to push the wood completely through the saw, wouldn't it tend to be rather cumbersome to handle? If you make the handle tall, then the hand can safely pass over the spinning parts to complete the cut. The cut isn't complete until the wood has passed by the blade completely, at least on the fence side. Puckdropper Someone is just stuck in his ways. Shoe blocks are overwhelmingly considered to be a much safer and more effective means of passing stock through a table saw blade by the vast majority of the woodworking community. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/15 10:21 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500 -MIKE- wrote: Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically. do people apologize here for giving their opinions i had not noticed Rarely. :-) They do, however, use punctuation most of the time. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
eb.com: The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept... A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.) Puckdropper I decided to quantitize my assertation that a safer push stick is super easy to build... It took me two pieces of wood, two screws, and about 6 minutes to build a quick and dirty push stick that's much better than the birdsmouth style. Check A.B.P.W. for some rough and awful woodworking. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:42:56 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can really improve your cuts. i am planning on making a couple of jigs or at least one for the bandsaw so will have to research a little on form & function of feather boards FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste side edge and could be dangerous. yes kind of obvious i think If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade. this does make sense although i don't have a dado set yet |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 11:33:11 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/2/15 10:35 AM, krw wrote: The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down. Exactly. What's holding the stock down to the table when the blade it trying to lift and throw it? If I suspect that anything bad could happen, a featherboard. If the stock is true, I don't bother. Well let me warn you that some times what appears to be flat and straight stock will can not appear that way after being cut. Be careful with any stock. Many things we cut on the table saw aren't heavy enough to stay against the table surface when cutting. Featherboards. I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front. I will use two push sticks. One to push and one to hold down near the blade. I have a strict rule when using the table saw; no fingers beyond the blade until it stops spinning. Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 11:27 AM, Leon wrote:
Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me. Yep, about 95% of the time with the larger, heavy duty ones. Most of the time I end up using the smaller ones, backed up by the larger ones if necessary. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote:
Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Yep that's true... As is the case with almost all jigs (tenon, spline, taper, et al) used for various operations on the table saw that have been in use for a hundred years or more. However, and having long respected your expertise and not arguing with your valid point, something else for the newer folks here to consider when deciding which is the best solution for them. Since it is impossible to eliminate all risk, the idea is to _minimize risk_ with a design that: ~ Gets the hand a relatively safe distance away/above the blade. ~ At the same time uses the _minimum_ amount of force/effort to maintain adequate downward pressure AND pushing force. IME, the further the hand exerting force is moved back toward the operator, and away from the workpiece being pushed, the more force/effort required from that hand to provide _downward_ force on the workpiece. Using more force/effort than necessary on a workpiece being pushed in the direction of the blade arguably increases the chance of being injured during a kickback or bind. Some folks, particularly those with very strong wrists, may not have a problem with this. The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. YMMV ... Table saw is a dangerous tool, best way to never get hurt by one is to not use one .... and not even a SawStop can protect you from all danger. Have the scars of 13 stitches in a thumb from a table saw ... damned thing wasn't even plugged in, and didn't have a blade installed. ER still classified as a "table saw accident". :( -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/3/15 9:03 AM, Swingman wrote:
The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. I probably missed it, but what design? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:29:20 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 8/2/15 9:33 PM, krw wrote: On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks. Do you even know what a shoe/heel push block is and how it works? Yes. I know a little about physics, too. sheesh |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 23:45:12 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote: On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 11:33:11 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/2/15 10:35 AM, krw wrote: The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down. Exactly. What's holding the stock down to the table when the blade it trying to lift and throw it? If I suspect that anything bad could happen, a featherboard. If the stock is true, I don't bother. Well let me warn you that some times what appears to be flat and straight stock will can not appear that way after being cut. Be careful with any stock. Always. Which is why my fingers never go beyond the front of the spinning blade. Many things we cut on the table saw aren't heavy enough to stay against the table surface when cutting. Featherboards. I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front. I will use two push sticks. One to push and one to hold down near the blade. I have a strict rule when using the table saw; no fingers beyond the blade until it stops spinning. Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 09:03:47 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote: Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Yep that's true... As is the case with almost all jigs (tenon, spline, taper, et al) used for various operations on the table saw that have been in use for a hundred years or more. Perhaps most but a taper jig shouldn't be on that list. It's easy to make them long enough such that the hand doesn't have to get anywhere near the blade. However, and having long respected your expertise and not arguing with your valid point, something else for the newer folks here to consider when deciding which is the best solution for them. Since it is impossible to eliminate all risk, the idea is to _minimize risk_ with a design that: Certainly. Everything has some amount of risk associated with it (even staying in one's bed). Life is about trading off risk and benefit. Woodworking has a benefit, so I assume some risk. ~ Gets the hand a relatively safe distance away/above the blade. ~ At the same time uses the _minimum_ amount of force/effort to maintain adequate downward pressure AND pushing force. IME, the further the hand exerting force is moved back toward the operator, and away from the workpiece being pushed, the more force/effort required from that hand to provide _downward_ force on the workpiece. That's where featherboards come in handy (at least for ripping, where the most danger of kickback is). Using more force/effort than necessary on a workpiece being pushed in the direction of the blade arguably increases the chance of being injured during a kickback or bind. OK. Again, if I'm worried about kickback (and that's often) I use featherboards in both planes, and a splitter (or knife). Some folks, particularly those with very strong wrists, may not have a problem with this. The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. YMMV ... Table saw is a dangerous tool, best way to never get hurt by one is to not use one .... and not even a SawStop can protect you from all danger. Sure. But it's a fun tool. ;-) Have the scars of 13 stitches in a thumb from a table saw ... damned thing wasn't even plugged in, and didn't have a blade installed. The only damage I've done to myself on the saw was when it wasn't plugged in. I've come close when it was spinning down, though. ER still classified as a "table saw accident". :( Sure, and if someone crosses a double yellow and hits someone coming home from happy hour, it's still an alcohol related accident, too. A friends wife got hit by a bicycle (she stopped and the kid kept going - looking behind him). It was classified as an automobile-pedestrian collision and their insurance still paid. Who said that government statistics have any meaning? ;-) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/3/2015 10:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/3/15 9:03 AM, Swingman wrote: The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. I probably missed it, but what design? Check further up, he has a link with a picture. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/3/2015 11:44 AM, krw wrote:
On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 09:03:47 -0500, Swingman wrote: On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote: Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Yep that's true... As is the case with almost all jigs (tenon, spline, taper, et al) used for various operations on the table saw that have been in use for a hundred years or more. Perhaps most but a taper jig shouldn't be on that list. It's easy to make them long enough such that the hand doesn't have to get anywhere near the blade. However, and having long respected your expertise and not arguing with your valid point, something else for the newer folks here to consider when deciding which is the best solution for them. Since it is impossible to eliminate all risk, the idea is to _minimize risk_ with a design that: Certainly. Everything has some amount of risk associated with it (even staying in one's bed). Life is about trading off risk and benefit. Woodworking has a benefit, so I assume some risk. ~ Gets the hand a relatively safe distance away/above the blade. ~ At the same time uses the _minimum_ amount of force/effort to maintain adequate downward pressure AND pushing force. IME, the further the hand exerting force is moved back toward the operator, and away from the workpiece being pushed, the more force/effort required from that hand to provide _downward_ force on the workpiece. That's where featherboards come in handy (at least for ripping, where the most danger of kickback is). Using more force/effort than necessary on a workpiece being pushed in the direction of the blade arguably increases the chance of being injured during a kickback or bind. OK. Again, if I'm worried about kickback (and that's often) I use featherboards in both planes, and a splitter (or knife). Some folks, particularly those with very strong wrists, may not have a problem with this. The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. YMMV ... Table saw is a dangerous tool, best way to never get hurt by one is to not use one .... and not even a SawStop can protect you from all danger. Sure. But it's a fun tool. ;-) Have the scars of 13 stitches in a thumb from a table saw ... damned thing wasn't even plugged in, and didn't have a blade installed. The only damage I've done to myself on the saw was when it wasn't plugged in. I've come close when it was spinning down, though. I came close the second time mine was spinning down. I was successful the first time. ER still classified as a "table saw accident". :( Sure, and if someone crosses a double yellow and hits someone coming home from happy hour, it's still an alcohol related accident, too. A friends wife got hit by a bicycle (she stopped and the kid kept going - looking behind him). It was classified as an automobile-pedestrian collision and their insurance still paid. Who said that government statistics have any meaning? ;-) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/2/2015 10:33 PM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks. Not really. The typical bird's mouth grips only about 3/4" or so. With a block it can be as long as you want ti to be. Mine is about 8" and the handle grip in back of that. You can exert a reasonable amount of downward pressure and still stay behind the blade. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says... On 8/3/2015 11:44 AM, krw wrote: On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 09:03:47 -0500, Swingman wrote: On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote: Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Yep that's true... As is the case with almost all jigs (tenon, spline, taper, et al) used for various operations on the table saw that have been in use for a hundred years or more. Perhaps most but a taper jig shouldn't be on that list. It's easy to make them long enough such that the hand doesn't have to get anywhere near the blade. However, and having long respected your expertise and not arguing with your valid point, something else for the newer folks here to consider when deciding which is the best solution for them. Since it is impossible to eliminate all risk, the idea is to _minimize risk_ with a design that: Certainly. Everything has some amount of risk associated with it (even staying in one's bed). Life is about trading off risk and benefit. Woodworking has a benefit, so I assume some risk. ~ Gets the hand a relatively safe distance away/above the blade. ~ At the same time uses the _minimum_ amount of force/effort to maintain adequate downward pressure AND pushing force. IME, the further the hand exerting force is moved back toward the operator, and away from the workpiece being pushed, the more force/effort required from that hand to provide _downward_ force on the workpiece. That's where featherboards come in handy (at least for ripping, where the most danger of kickback is). Using more force/effort than necessary on a workpiece being pushed in the direction of the blade arguably increases the chance of being injured during a kickback or bind. OK. Again, if I'm worried about kickback (and that's often) I use featherboards in both planes, and a splitter (or knife). Some folks, particularly those with very strong wrists, may not have a problem with this. The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. YMMV ... Table saw is a dangerous tool, best way to never get hurt by one is to not use one .... and not even a SawStop can protect you from all danger. Sure. But it's a fun tool. ;-) Have the scars of 13 stitches in a thumb from a table saw ... damned thing wasn't even plugged in, and didn't have a blade installed. The only damage I've done to myself on the saw was when it wasn't plugged in. I've come close when it was spinning down, though. I came close the second time mine was spinning down. I was successful the first time. One tool I have that scares me a bit is the 18v deWalt circular saw--my other saw is a worm drive Skil that pretty much demands to be handled with two hands, but the deWalt is so light that I often use it with one, and one of these days I'm afraid my other one is going to be in the wrong place. Still, it's so damned _convenient_. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 14:46:11 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2015 10:33 PM, krw wrote: On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks. Not really. The typical bird's mouth grips only about 3/4" or so. With a block it can be as long as you want ti to be. Mine is about 8" and the handle grip in back of that. You can exert a reasonable amount of downward pressure and still stay behind the blade. So you're saying the difference is only how big of a mouth the bird has? The leverage is working against you anytime you're pushing the stock. If the handle is up-front, I'd agree that it's less likely to cause a kickback (because the leading edge lifts). Leverage is working for you. But, as long as the handle is behind the stock, it's not in your favor. I'll stick with featherboards and a couple of birds. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 16:31:40 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote: In article , lcb11211 @swbelldotnet says... On 8/3/2015 11:44 AM, krw wrote: On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 09:03:47 -0500, Swingman wrote: On 8/2/2015 8:58 PM, krw wrote: Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Yep that's true... As is the case with almost all jigs (tenon, spline, taper, et al) used for various operations on the table saw that have been in use for a hundred years or more. Perhaps most but a taper jig shouldn't be on that list. It's easy to make them long enough such that the hand doesn't have to get anywhere near the blade. However, and having long respected your expertise and not arguing with your valid point, something else for the newer folks here to consider when deciding which is the best solution for them. Since it is impossible to eliminate all risk, the idea is to _minimize risk_ with a design that: Certainly. Everything has some amount of risk associated with it (even staying in one's bed). Life is about trading off risk and benefit. Woodworking has a benefit, so I assume some risk. ~ Gets the hand a relatively safe distance away/above the blade. ~ At the same time uses the _minimum_ amount of force/effort to maintain adequate downward pressure AND pushing force. IME, the further the hand exerting force is moved back toward the operator, and away from the workpiece being pushed, the more force/effort required from that hand to provide _downward_ force on the workpiece. That's where featherboards come in handy (at least for ripping, where the most danger of kickback is). Using more force/effort than necessary on a workpiece being pushed in the direction of the blade arguably increases the chance of being injured during a kickback or bind. OK. Again, if I'm worried about kickback (and that's often) I use featherboards in both planes, and a splitter (or knife). Some folks, particularly those with very strong wrists, may not have a problem with this. The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. YMMV ... Table saw is a dangerous tool, best way to never get hurt by one is to not use one .... and not even a SawStop can protect you from all danger. Sure. But it's a fun tool. ;-) Have the scars of 13 stitches in a thumb from a table saw ... damned thing wasn't even plugged in, and didn't have a blade installed. The only damage I've done to myself on the saw was when it wasn't plugged in. I've come close when it was spinning down, though. I came close the second time mine was spinning down. I was successful the first time. One tool I have that scares me a bit is the 18v deWalt circular saw--my other saw is a worm drive Skil that pretty much demands to be handled with two hands, but the deWalt is so light that I often use it with one, and one of these days I'm afraid my other one is going to be in the wrong place. Still, it's so damned _convenient_. Tell me that you don't use it with the work piece across your lap! I use mine quite a lot (gave away of all the other tools except the lights and the circular saw, though) but have never felt it to be unsafe. I've used my Makita, one-handed, on a ladder, though. ;-) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/3/15 1:19 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/3/2015 10:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/3/15 9:03 AM, Swingman wrote: The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. I probably missed it, but what design? Check further up, he has a link with a picture. Found it... https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682 I don't care what you say, there's no way two bird's mouth push sticks are better than ONE of these. Anyone who's used both won't go back to push sticks. Sideways pushing feather boards do very little to hold the stock down against the table. Unless you're using a featherboard vertical pressure, you still need to hold the work down. And then why would you bother setting it up when a shoe accomplishes both, safely, with one hand instead of two. Some people are stuck in their ways and refuse to admit the advantages of new* ideas. (* the show type push block has to be at least 50 years old) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
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table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/3/2015 8:37 PM, krw wrote:
On Mon, 3 Aug 2015 14:46:11 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/2/2015 10:33 PM, krw wrote: On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote: Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use? Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts. Not if you put the handle back far enough. Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks. Not really. The typical bird's mouth grips only about 3/4" or so. With a block it can be as long as you want ti to be. Mine is about 8" and the handle grip in back of that. You can exert a reasonable amount of downward pressure and still stay behind the blade. So you're saying the difference is only how big of a mouth the bird has? The leverage is working against you anytime you're pushing the stock. If the handle is up-front, I'd agree that it's less likely to cause a kickback (because the leading edge lifts). Leverage is working for you. But, as long as the handle is behind the stock, it's not in your favor. I'll stick with featherboards and a couple of birds. The handle is at about 45 degrees in back so you can put some downward pressure. You can make it as high as you want and change the angle to what makes you comfortable and safe. Simple physics. Get a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and you can make it as big or small as you want. |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
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table saw push stick or push block or ???
-MIKE- wrote:
On 8/3/15 1:19 PM, Leon wrote: On 8/3/2015 10:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/3/15 9:03 AM, Swingman wrote: The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. I probably missed it, but what design? Check further up, he has a link with a picture. Found it... https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682 I don't care what you say, there's no way two bird's mouth push sticks are better than ONE of these. Anyone who's used both won't go back to push sticks. Is it make from ordinary laminated plywood? |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/3/2015 8:56 PM, Bill wrote:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...9 28011997682 Is it make from ordinary laminated plywood? Yep ... Simply make your own pattern and cut them out on the bandsaw/jigsaw about once every couple of years. You can move the bottom "hook" further away from the handle, or orient the handle to curve the other way, whichever is more comfortable for you. Use scrap 3/4" ply for some, 1/2" for some, and 1/4" for a smaller version when making edge banding. Amazing how beat up they get, which would otherwise be a finger, or worse. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:16:50 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site. may not explain your alert but it does remind us that advertisers once again prove that no one and nothing is beneath them http://www.pcworld.com/article/29562...d-network.html yes i am suggesting the alert you got was from an malicious advertiser |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
Bill wrote:
-MIKE- wrote: On 8/3/15 1:19 PM, Leon wrote: On 8/3/2015 10:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/3/15 9:03 AM, Swingman wrote: The ability to almost effortlessly maintain minimum force in both planes is why I like the design I use, which has stood the test of time for me with regard to safe operation ... so far. I probably missed it, but what design? Check further up, he has a link with a picture. Found it... https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682 I don't care what you say, there's no way two bird's mouth push sticks are better than ONE of these. Anyone who's used both won't go back to push sticks. Is it make from ordinary laminated plywood? ....or pieces of dimensional lumber. Either one will work. It's not the wood that matters - it's the idea of getting your hand up and behind the workpiece, while allowing the push-stick to apply both downward pressure and forward pressure. It's really pretty simple. You could use MDF if you wanted to. -- -Mike- |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 08/01/2015 06:31 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. What, you don't remember the infamous Dead Bunny Push Stick: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/92112754848710677/ -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb "In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car." - Lawrence Summers |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/4/15 3:50 PM, Kevin Miller wrote:
On 08/01/2015 06:31 PM, -MIKE- wrote: Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. What, you don't remember the infamous Dead Bunny Push Stick: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/92112754848710677/ Am I missing an inside joke here? That is not a push stick, that is a shoe-style push block. Those are much, much safer than push sticks. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 08/04/2015 12:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/4/15 3:50 PM, Kevin Miller wrote: On 08/01/2015 06:31 PM, -MIKE- wrote: Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. What, you don't remember the infamous Dead Bunny Push Stick: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/92112754848710677/ Am I missing an inside joke here? That is not a push stick, that is a shoe-style push block. Those are much, much safer than push sticks. Not an inside joke - just a historical reference to the wreck waaaay back in the day. I guess I don't make the distinction between a push stick and a push block in much the same way that most people call facial tissue "Kleenix". Much to the Kleenix company lawyers chagrin and their advertising departments joy... ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb "In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car." - Lawrence Summers |
table saw push stick or push block or ???
On 8/4/15 7:09 PM, Kevin Miller wrote:
On 08/04/2015 12:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 8/4/15 3:50 PM, Kevin Miller wrote: On 08/01/2015 06:31 PM, -MIKE- wrote: Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards. What, you don't remember the infamous Dead Bunny Push Stick: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/92112754848710677/ Am I missing an inside joke here? That is not a push stick, that is a shoe-style push block. Those are much, much safer than push sticks. Not an inside joke - just a historical reference to the wreck waaaay back in the day. I guess I don't make the distinction between a push stick and a push block in much the same way that most people call facial tissue "Kleenix". Much to the Kleenix company lawyers chagrin and their advertising departments joy... ...Kevin Well... the distinction is kind of the point of this whole thread. :-D One is a stick, one is a block. It would be like Kleenex vs. a sponge. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
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