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Default table saw push stick or push block or ???

no doubt this topic comes up once in a while

here is a variety
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws

I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for











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Electric Comet wrote in
:

no doubt this topic comes up once in a while

here is a variety
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...11-push-stick-
plans-save-your-paws-from-table-saws

I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back
(simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood
with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle.

I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely
sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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Default table saw push stick or push block or ???

On 8/1/2015 11:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
no doubt this topic comes up once in a while

here is a variety
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws

I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for

It seems like I remember reading on this forum you could use a dead cat
as a push block.

Is my memory faulty?

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On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
no doubt this topic comes up once in a while

here is a variety
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws

I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site.

But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure as
well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply pushes
and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of the blade.

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On 01 Aug 2015 16:47:34 GMT
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the
back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of
plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle.

I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely
sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts.


i will try that
but will glue a piece of sandpaper on the bottom just for better grip











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On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:16:50 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site.


i had no problems but i do use adblock

But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure


my plywood one does that

as well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply
pushes and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of
the blade.


i think i made the push stick for cutting some small pieces













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Keith Nuttle wrote:


It seems like I remember reading on this forum you could use a dead
cat as a push block.

Is my memory faulty?


Nope - not faulty at all. Wasn't that something like 101 Ways To Use A Dead
Cat?

--

-Mike-



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In article , lid
says...

no doubt this topic comes up once in a while

here is a variety
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws

I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


Chrome is giving me a netnanny warning on that site. Went into it on
Linux and there is a nice collection of pushblock designs.

The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included below
for anyone who is interested.

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...-pushblock.pdf
http://www.provenwoodworking.com/tab...ush-stick.html
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/06/10/ws/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...aw/thin-strip-
rippin-pushblock/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork.../tip-ride-the-
rails-for-safer-ripping/
http://www.cvwa.org/Guide/Guide005.html
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...kickback-dont-
let-it-happen-to-you/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...safety/finger-
saving-push-blocks/?page=1
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...Push_Stick.pdf
http://www.timelesstreasuretrunk.com...html#pushstick
http://www.knottyplans.com/index.php?page=20042
http://www.grampasworkshop.net/push%20stick.PDF
http://media.ptg-online.com/media/dm...20031020153937
_En912859-10-20-03.pdf
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2009/06/18/sn/
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2007/05/25/sn/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...-planing/sure-
grip-jointer-pushstick/
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...ticle.aspx?id=
28490

In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm
using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock
completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the
stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control
is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut.
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On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...9 28011997682


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
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Default table saw push stick or push block or ???

Swingman wrote in
:

On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/
EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682


Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way.
I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the
notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate
around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs
to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes
thru the notch into the board.

That's for the table saw. For the bandsaw and router table
I just use any handy piece of scrap with a flat side. On
the jointer I use push pads on top of the stock.

John


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Default table saw push stick or push block or ???

On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400
"J. Clarke" wrote:

The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included


surprising that most links still work

In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool
I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock
completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the
stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more
control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular
cut.


someday i will try a featherboard
i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care
high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel
or some other surprising way












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Electric Comet wrote in news:mpivt2$3hi$1
@dont-email.me:

On 01 Aug 2015 16:47:34 GMT
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the
back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of
plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle.

I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely
sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts.


i will try that
but will glue a piece of sandpaper on the bottom just for better grip


The tang actually does the pushing. The length of the push stick allows
me to put pressure away from the edge of the board to prevent lifting.
No need for sandpaper.

If I need to hold the material against the fence at the same time I'm
pushing through the blade, I usually use the rounded end of one push
stick as a feather board and push with the other. I'm only using enough
pressure to keep the material from wandering, not pushing it tight like
you can with a feather board.

Puckdroper

--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Swingman wrote in
:

On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/
EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682


Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way.
I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the
notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate
around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs
to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes
thru the notch into the board.


And mine is similar to Swingmans except mine is shorter and the handle
is more on top.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I have been using this design for about 16 years and this one is
probably that old. I have a few as back ups. I made it out of 1/2"
Baltic birch plywood so it does not weaken much as more of it gets cut
away, in width. It is getting close to retirement.

An important aspect to this design is that I can apply quite a bit of
pressure down on the board to prevent what you have described, the notch
lifting. More importantly, that downward force helps to prevent the
board/work from lifting as it passes the back side of the blade.

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of
me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the
work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html






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On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Swingman wrote in
:

On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for


https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/
EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#56849189 28011997682


Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way.
I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the
notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate
around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs
to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes
thru the notch into the board.


And mine is similar to Swingmans except mine is shorter and the handle
is more on top.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I have been using this design for about 16 years and this one is
probably that old. I have a few as back ups. I made it out of 1/2"
Baltic birch plywood so it does not weaken much as more of it gets cut
away, in width. It is getting close to retirement.

An important aspect to this design is that I can apply quite a bit of
pressure down on the board to prevent what you have described, the notch
lifting. More importantly, that downward force helps to prevent the
board/work from lifting as it passes the back side of the blade.

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of
me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the
work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html






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On 8/1/2015 4:24 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400
"J. Clarke" wrote:

The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included


surprising that most links still work

In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool
I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock
completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the
stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more
control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular
cut.


someday i will try a featherboard
i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care
high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel
or some other surprising way


I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can
really improve your cuts.

FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front
cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing
the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste
side edge and could be dangerous.

If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in
front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a
through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer
cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade.








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In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 8/1/2015 4:24 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400
"J. Clarke" wrote:

The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included


surprising that most links still work

In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool
I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock
completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the
stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more
control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular
cut.


someday i will try a featherboard
i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care
high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel
or some other surprising way


I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can
really improve your cuts.

FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front
cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing
the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste
side edge and could be dangerous.

If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in
front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a
through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer
cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade.


I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards
available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many
cuts just so much more _convenient_.
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"J. Clarke" wrote in
:


I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards
available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many
cuts just so much more _convenient_.


Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it
as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of
me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the
work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused
by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept...

A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd
avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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In article . com,
Puckdropper says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:


I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards
available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many
cuts just so much more _convenient_.


Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it
as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.

Puckdropper


But "buy one" means that one can use "costs something" as an excuse not
to use them.
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On 8/1/2015 2:16 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:


It seems like I remember reading on this forum you could use a dead
cat as a push block.

Is my memory faulty?


Nope - not faulty at all. Wasn't that something like 101 Ways To Use A Dead
Cat?

I believe that was it. I am still using some of the advice from that
thread ;-)


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On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 08:36:48 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

no doubt this topic comes up once in a while

here is a variety
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07...rom-table-saws

I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer

i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best

which style do you reach for

I have a couple fiberglass ones, one with a magnet in the handle. It's
stuck to the side of the table, right next to the remote control for
the dust collector (also stuck on with magnets). The other sits on
top of the fence. I like them where they're handy (and I know where
they are).








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On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of
me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the
work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused
by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept...

A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd
avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.)

Puckdropper


Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one
since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards.
They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand.

Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it
through the blade.
Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of
me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the
work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused
by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept...

A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd
avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.)

Puckdropper


Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use one
since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock upwards.
They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand.


The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They
aren't intended to fix kick-back.

Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it
through the blade.
Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically.


I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft,
yesterday.

http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm
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On 8/1/15 9:41 PM, krw wrote:
http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn
Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:


On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell
out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do
nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at
you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw
was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the
same concept...

A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy
one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for
table saw use.)

Puckdropper


Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would
use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the
stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your
hand.


The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They
aren't intended to fix kick-back.

Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it
through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that
un-apologetically.


I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft,
yesterday.

http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm


Well, I guess you could spend 300 bucks on those or make a shoe in 5
minutes out of a buck's worth of scrap wood.

I stand by what I said. Those crow's mouth type push sticks are for
those who don't like being able to count to ten.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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krw wrote in
:

http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn
Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:



Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use
one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock
upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand.


The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They
aren't intended to fix kick-back.


They aren't intended to encourage kick-back, either, but that's what
those dangerous birdsmouth push sticks do. If you put downward pressure
on the very edge of something like a board, the board will tend to lift
at the opposite end.

Considering how easy it is to make a push device that fixes that problem,
there's no reason to ever use the birdsmouth style push stick. Ever.

Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it
through the blade.
Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically.


I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft,
yesterday.

http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm


The best saw to use the birdsmouth push sticks on is the compound miter
saw. Hold it square against the fence, and make a cut. Now you've got a
scrap to use to double check the squareness of the fence.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.


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Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
web.com:

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:


I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards
available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make
many cuts just so much more _convenient_.


Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can
use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.


Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will
lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes
them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp
to the router table or a fence or other places where there
isn't a slot.

Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and
effective they are for controlling the work.

John
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Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
eb.com:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out
of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to
keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was
caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same
concept...


Yeah, I had one like that, too. I think Delta used to supply
a drawing for that style stick in their manuals (cut it out of
the manual, glue to a piece of plywood, cut plywood to make
stick). I never felt comfortable with it.

John
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On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way.
I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the
notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate
around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs
to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes
thru the notch into the board.


Over 60 years of using that/similar design on a table saw and that has
never been an issue.

Different strokes ... folks should use what is comfortable for them.

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In article ,
says...

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
eb.com:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out
of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to
keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was
caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same
concept...


Yeah, I had one like that, too. I think Delta used to supply
a drawing for that style stick in their manuals (cut it out of
the manual, glue to a piece of plywood, cut plywood to make
stick). I never felt comfortable with it.

John


The delta manual with that plan is one of the links from the article.

That's actually similar to the design I use to move "well controlled"
stock through. With featherboards on top and side the board isn't going
anyewhere unless it rips the fence off in the process and the notch
helps me keep the stick where I want it. But sometimes the stick has to
be narrow to push under the featherboard (yeah, I know, I need to make
up some thinner featherboards for those cuts.
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On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 13:39:54 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
aweb.com:

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:


I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards
available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make
many cuts just so much more _convenient_.


Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can
use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.


Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will
lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes
them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp
to the router table or a fence or other places where there
isn't a slot.


The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops,
obviously), too.

Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and
effective they are for controlling the work.


I use featherboards on the fence, too, but have to be careful so they
don't lift the fence.


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On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:45:19 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 8/1/15 9:41 PM, krw wrote:
http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn
Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:


On 8/1/15 5:15 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:

*snip*

Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell
out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do
nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at
you.

http://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html


The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw
was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the
same concept...

A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy
one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for
table saw use.)

Puckdropper


Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would
use one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the
stock upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your
hand.


The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They
aren't intended to fix kick-back.

Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it
through the blade. Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that
un-apologetically.


I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft,
yesterday.

http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm


Well, I guess you could spend 300 bucks on those or make a shoe in 5
minutes out of a buck's worth of scrap wood.


$250 at Woodcraft but yes, they're expensive. They also do the job of
the featherboards (in both planes).

I stand by what I said. Those crow's mouth type push sticks are for
those who don't like being able to count to ten.


Nonsense. As long as your fingers never go past the blade you're not
going to get 'em chopped off. Push sticks keep them out of the blade.
You might get hit in the gut with a hunk of board but that's why it's
good not to stand behind the workpiece.
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On 02 Aug 2015 11:15:11 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

krw wrote in
:

http://wmo.asu.edu/world-greatest-si...our-rainfallOn
Sat, 1 Aug 2015 21:31:18 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:



Push sticks should be outlawed. I can't fathom why anyone would use
one since they offer NO resistance to the blade pushing the stock
upwards. They are slightly less dangerous than using your hand.


The idea is to keep your fingers out of the rotating parts. They
aren't intended to fix kick-back.


They aren't intended to encourage kick-back, either, but that's what
those dangerous birdsmouth push sticks do. If you put downward pressure
on the very edge of something like a board, the board will tend to lift
at the opposite end.


If the piece is that warped, perhaps. The birdsmouth is intended to
push towards the blade, not down.

Considering how easy it is to make a push device that fixes that problem,
there's no reason to ever use the birdsmouth style push stick. Ever.


Disagree.

Use a shoe that holds the stock down to the table as it pushes it
through the blade.
Push sticks are for idiots... and I say that un-apologetically.


I often use featherboards and was looking at these at Woodcraft,
yesterday.

http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm


The best saw to use the birdsmouth push sticks on is the compound miter
saw. Hold it square against the fence, and make a cut. Now you've got a
scrap to use to double check the squareness of the fence.

Perhaps a square is a better tool?
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John McCoy wrote:


Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will
lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes
them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp
to the router table or a fence or other places where there
isn't a slot.


That's what I use. I made my own out of scrap of 1x4. They work like a
top.

Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and
effective they are for controlling the work.


Absolutely. The older I get, the less inclined to take some of the chances
I used to take in my younger years. I've come to really like my
featherboards and my claw that I push with.

--

-Mike-



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On 8/2/2015 10:29 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 13:39:54 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
web.com:

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:


I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards
available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make
many cuts just so much more _convenient_.


Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can
use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.


Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will
lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes
them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp
to the router table or a fence or other places where there
isn't a slot.


The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops,
obviously), too.


Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over
the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me.
Additionally the magnetic one that I use will not let a Gripper pass if
the Gripper is wider than the stock being cut and the stock is 3/4"
thick. I have to go to my wooden feather board which fits in the slot
and is less than 3/4" thick.




Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and
effective they are for controlling the work.


I use featherboards on the fence, too, but have to be careful so they
don't lift the fence.


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On 8/2/15 10:35 AM, krw wrote:

The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down.


Exactly.
What's holding the stock down to the table when the blade it trying to
lift and throw it?
Many things we cut on the table saw aren't heavy enough to stay against
the table surface when cutting.

I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push
the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front.

Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the
stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use?


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On 8/2/15 11:27 AM, Leon wrote:

The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops,
obviously), too.


Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over
the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me.
Additionally the magnetic one that I use will not let a Gripper pass if
the Gripper is wider than the stock being cut and the stock is 3/4"
thick. I have to go to my wooden feather board which fits in the slot
and is less than 3/4" thick.


Someone sells long, steel miter slots inserts that lock into the slot
and bridge that gap for magnetic feather boards.

I'll have to find the link for these, I was going to get some but the
move made me forget.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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On 8/2/2015 12:33 PM, -MIKE- wrote:


I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push
the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front.

Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the
stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use?



I have both types. Once I made the shoe type, I don't think I ever used
the bird again. The one I made has a handle like a handsaw and you can
get a firm grip on it.
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On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 11:33:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 8/2/15 10:35 AM, krw wrote:

The birdsmouth is intended to push towards the blade, not down.


Exactly.
What's holding the stock down to the table when the blade it trying to
lift and throw it?


If I suspect that anything bad could happen, a featherboard. If the
stock is true, I don't bother.

Many things we cut on the table saw aren't heavy enough to stay against
the table surface when cutting.


Featherboards.

I've seen guys use two seperate bird's mouth push sticks to try to push
the stock through the blade AND hold it down at the front.


I will use two push sticks. One to push and one to hold down near the
blade. I have a strict rule when using the table saw; no fingers
beyond the blade until it stops spinning.

Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the
stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use?


Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts.
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On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote:


Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the
stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use?


Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts.


Not if you put the handle back far enough.
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On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:05:18 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 8/2/2015 9:58 PM, krw wrote:


Again I ask, why not use a simple shoe type push guide that controls the
stock in both directions and only takes one hand to use?


Because the fingers have to go past the spinning parts.


Not if you put the handle back far enough.


Then you've got the same problem as the birds mouth push sticks.
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