I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the Pacific
Ocean.
We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor barrier.....
I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen.
Also use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle panels...
I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but shingles to the stops,
and then trim....or just shingle to the window.
Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower windows.....since the
upper ones are really tucked under the roof.
It is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle with
the weatherproofing as if I have never done it.
I wonder why that is?
Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent flashing
techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing details.
Have not found any specifically for shingles......

Oh well, I will spend more time worrying...
John

On 5/26/15 8:35 PM, jloomis wrote:
I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the
Pacific Ocean. We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor
barrier..... I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen. Also
use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle
panels... I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but
shingles to the stops, and then trim....or just shingle to the
window. Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower
windows.....since the upper ones are really tucked under the roof. It
is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle
with the weatherproofing as if I have never done it. I wonder why
that is? Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent
flashing techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing
details. Have not found any specifically for shingles......

Oh well, I will spend more time worrying... John

Fine Home building magazine has many great articles on door and window
flashing techniques and technology. Google "fine homebuilding window
flashing" and you'll see at least a dozen great articles plus a lot of
videos.

Many of them could be subscription only but it would be well worth the
cost to you for what you have at stake. It's 40 bucks and year or 6 a
month for the online subscription. You could get (download) all you
need in one month. Heck, you could probably purge the site of
everything on flashing in the 14 day FREE trial period.

http://subscribe.finehomebuilding.com/membership


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"jloomis" wrote:

I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the
Pacific Ocean.
We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor barrier.....
I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen.
Also use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle
panels...
I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but shingles to the
stops, and then trim....or just shingle to the window.
Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower
windows.....since the upper ones are really tucked under the roof.
It is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle
with the weatherproofing as if I have never done it.
I wonder why that is?
Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent flashing
techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing details.
Have not found any specifically for shingles......

Oh well, I will spend more time worrying...

-----------------------------------------------------------
A couple of things come to mind.

1) What does the board manufacturer suggest for this application?

2) Tom Silva is always flashing windows on various This Old House
programs.

Might be worth contacting them for their input.

Lew

Hi John,

I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the
Pacific Ocean.
We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor barrier.....
I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen.
Also use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle
panels... I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but
shingles to the stops, and then trim....or just shingle to the window.
Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower
windows.....since the upper ones are really tucked under the roof.
It is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle
with the weatherproofing as if I have never done it.
I wonder why that is?
Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent flashing
techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing details.
Have not found any specifically for shingles......

What kind of windows are you installing? Do they have integral mounting
flanges?

If you're using a housewrap (Tyvek or tar paper), run it over the window
opening. Then cut a big 'X' in the opening and wrap each piece into the
window opening.

Then install a self-stick membrane along the bottom of the window
opening, from the inside edge of the wall, wrapping around the outside
edge of the wall. The membrane should also wrap up the lower corners of
the opening, or you should install separate pieces for the lower corners.
Since you are in a coastal area with lots of wind blown rain, you may
want to install a sill pan or have custom flashing made to fit the window
opening. Basically, you're trying to ensure any water that gets around
the window is directed back outside and not into the wall.

Caulk around the window opening, then install the window by nailing
around the flanges.

Now install strips of self-stick membrane over the flange on each side of
the window. Then run another strip of membrane over the top flange of the
window.

The housewrap above the window should overlap the self-stick membrane
flashing above the window.

If you install trim above the window, caulk it well and add another metal
flashing at the top to keep water from getting behind the trim.

You have to think like a rain-drop. Each layer should shed water to the
outside, just like roofing shingles. If water does get behind a layer,
there needs to be a way for that water to get out. That's why I don't
caulk along the bottom of a window for instance.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Yes, I do agree with your methods.
I am using Ice and Water Shield for the walls.
It is a rubber product, with stickum on the back.
Yes, we are putting bitumen tape over the flanges....
I am planning a metal flashing over the window since I am using hardi
shingles and no trim.
I do not like the trim detail that was there, and I am trying to minimize
trim, and use panel shingle siding
We will use copious amounts of Big Stretch on anything that smacks as an
intrusion.
You do have a good understanding of the problem.
Thank You,
'John

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...

Hi John,

I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the
Pacific Ocean.
We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor barrier.....
I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen.
Also use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle
panels... I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but
shingles to the stops, and then trim....or just shingle to the window.
Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower
windows.....since the upper ones are really tucked under the roof.
It is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle
with the weatherproofing as if I have never done it.
I wonder why that is?
Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent flashing
techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing details.
Have not found any specifically for shingles......

What kind of windows are you installing? Do they have integral mounting
flanges?

If you're using a housewrap (Tyvek or tar paper), run it over the window
opening. Then cut a big 'X' in the opening and wrap each piece into the
window opening.

Then install a self-stick membrane along the bottom of the window
opening, from the inside edge of the wall, wrapping around the outside
edge of the wall. The membrane should also wrap up the lower corners of
the opening, or you should install separate pieces for the lower corners.
Since you are in a coastal area with lots of wind blown rain, you may
want to install a sill pan or have custom flashing made to fit the window
opening. Basically, you're trying to ensure any water that gets around
the window is directed back outside and not into the wall.

Caulk around the window opening, then install the window by nailing
around the flanges.

Now install strips of self-stick membrane over the flange on each side of
the window. Then run another strip of membrane over the top flange of the
window.

The housewrap above the window should overlap the self-stick membrane
flashing above the window.

If you install trim above the window, caulk it well and add another metal
flashing at the top to keep water from getting behind the trim.

You have to think like a rain-drop. Each layer should shed water to the
outside, just like roofing shingles. If water does get behind a layer,
there needs to be a way for that water to get out. That's why I don't
caulk along the bottom of a window for instance.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

John,

I am using Ice and Water Shield for the walls.
It is a rubber product, with stickum on the back.

For the entire wall? I used that on parts of our roof, but it wouldn't have
occurred to me to use it on a wall. I suppose it would be a good idea in a
coastal environment for the same reasons it's used on roofs. Seal around
perforations and stop wind blown moisture.

Yes, we are putting bitumen tape over the flanges....
I am planning a metal flashing over the window since I am using hardi
shingles and no trim.

Without separate trim, wouldn't the flange of the window serve the same
function as the metal flashing?

I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to have a secondary flashing, but then I
would worry about the detail at each end of the flashing. What happens with
the water that runs sideways off the ends of your flashing? That's the one
detail with top flashing I've never really thought out.

I do not like the trim detail that was there, and I am trying to
minimize trim, and use panel shingle siding. We will use copious
amounts of Big Stretch on anything that smacks as an intrusion.

It sounds like you've got it under control and have probably thought it out
more than I have.

You do have a good understanding of the problem.

Nothing that can't be solved with duct tape and LOTS of caulk!

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Yes, the either side of "Head Flashing" or over the window, trim, or window
itself is always an interesting problem.
What to do with the ends?
I just figure, you can only go so far, do so much, and then move on.
I just let the either side of the window flashing drip out and over the
lower siding...no end detail.....
john

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...

John,

I am using Ice and Water Shield for the walls.
It is a rubber product, with stickum on the back.

For the entire wall? I used that on parts of our roof, but it wouldn't have
occurred to me to use it on a wall. I suppose it would be a good idea in a
coastal environment for the same reasons it's used on roofs. Seal around
perforations and stop wind blown moisture.

Yes, we are putting bitumen tape over the flanges....
I am planning a metal flashing over the window since I am using hardi
shingles and no trim.

Without separate trim, wouldn't the flange of the window serve the same
function as the metal flashing?

I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to have a secondary flashing, but then I
would worry about the detail at each end of the flashing. What happens with
the water that runs sideways off the ends of your flashing? That's the one
detail with top flashing I've never really thought out.

I do not like the trim detail that was there, and I am trying to
minimize trim, and use panel shingle siding. We will use copious
amounts of Big Stretch on anything that smacks as an intrusion.

It sounds like you've got it under control and have probably thought it out
more than I have.

You do have a good understanding of the problem.

Nothing that can't be solved with duct tape and LOTS of caulk!

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 5/26/15 8:35 PM, jloomis wrote:
I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the Pacific
Ocean.
We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor barrier.....
I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen.
Also use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle panels...
I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but shingles to the
stops, and then trim....or just shingle to the window.
Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower windows.....since
the upper ones are really tucked under the roof.
It is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle
with the weatherproofing as if I have never done it.
I wonder why that is?
Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent flashing
techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing details.
Have not found any specifically for shingles......

Oh well, I will spend more time worrying...
John

Here's one of the free articles Fine Homebuilding puts out from time to
time. This one is excellent and has detailed pictures.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/install-replacement-windows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx

In pdf http://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021197054.pdf



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Thank You,
I did look them over, and do see their ideas.
I am using Ice and Water paper for the building wrap.
I am also taping the flanges on the outside with the same bitumen tape...
Caulking the shingles as they are set next to the window.
I may put a head flashing in also.
John

"-MIKE-" wrote in message ...

On 5/26/15 8:35 PM, jloomis wrote:
I am replacing windows in a house on the bluff over looking the Pacific
Ocean.
We will use Ice and Water Paper for the vapor barrier.....
I will tape over the window flanges with bitumen.
Also use caulking redundantly. I am shingling with hardi shingle
panels...
I am at a cross road weather to blind stop, then but shingles to the
stops, and then trim....or just shingle to the window.
Also I may put head flashing over the top of the lower windows.....since
the upper ones are really tucked under the roof.
It is a dilemma, I have done many, many windows, and always struggle
with the weatherproofing as if I have never done it.
I wonder why that is?
Also, is there any diagram out there that shows decent flashing
techniques....I have looked online at a barrage of flashing details.
Have not found any specifically for shingles......

Oh well, I will spend more time worrying...
John

Here's one of the free articles Fine Homebuilding puts out from time to
time. This one is excellent and has detailed pictures.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/install-replacement-windows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx

In pdf http://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021197054.pdf



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply