I took a week vacation and am back drilling holes. Specificity the 31
shelf positions for both entertainment center towers. That comes to 248
holes for both towers. Using the drill guide with the shelf pin gang
attachment took me 95 seconds to place, clamp into position, and drill
the first run of 20 or so holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15495059216/

Removing the clamps, indexing with a drill bit, reclamping, and drilling
to finish the other 11 or so holes took an additional 80 seconds. So
just under 3 minutes per row for setting up and drilling 31 holes was
pretty quick compared to my other methods.

The results.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/


All in all I am pretty happy with the True Position Drill Guide and its
shelf pin extensions.

On Sunday, October 12, 2014 2:25:12 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

All in all I am pretty happy with the True Position Drill Guide and its

shelf pin extensions.

That has to be a great time saver. I remember when I used to build cabinets and someone would want holes for shelf supports in certain areas. I would only do about eight to ten a side inside a cabinet, and that was a PIA sometimes to get straight and square. So on consideration, the numbers you are talking about would have no doubt swamped my canoe. Thankfully, that wasn't the style then, so even with built in units, there weren't that many holes. Nothing like your pictures which really provide some perspective on just how many you drilled!

When I was still building, for those that wanted the finel adjustable shelving I always used these:

http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/255-se...knape-and-vogt

No doubt you have used your share of those! I liked them because they were a kill shot for ease of installation. Run the router against the guide along the length of the casing side, flip it around, do the same, and then screw the pilaster in. Easy! Better still, if we had the table saw out on the job the dado blade made short work of that slotting requirement. And if you used the same index to set all four of them, they were always square and in adjustment.

They came in brass, antique brass, white, walnut, brown, tan, from the factory and had clips to match. Roll down that page linked above and you can see the clips with the rubber pads we used to use for glass shelving.

Waaaaaaaay back then people didn't want holes with pegs or some kind of clip that fit in a drilled hole. They thought it looked amateurish (even though significantly harder to get right) to have all the holes, and didn't want folks to think they had cabinets built in someone's garage as a hobby. Some thought it looked to much like the manufactured Danish furniture you bought in a box and assembled at your house (think before IKEA invaded the USA).

Fast forward to now, and holes are back in fashion as my cabinet guy tells me his clients think they add a hand crafted touch. He builds his cabinets and will have a few holes drilled in a compartment that allow adjustable shelving to be used.

Haven't seen him in a while. I should look him up and show him your hole jig.

Robert

On 10/15/2014 11:43 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 2:25:12 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

All in all I am pretty happy with the True Position Drill Guide and its

shelf pin extensions.

That has to be a great time saver. I remember when I used to build cabinets and someone would want holes for shelf supports in certain areas. I would only do about eight to ten a side inside a cabinet, and that was a PIA sometimes to get straight and square. So on consideration, the numbers you are talking about would have no doubt swamped my canoe. Thankfully, that wasn't the style then, so even with built in units, there weren't that many holes. Nothing like your pictures which really provide some perspective on just how many you drilled!

When I was still building, for those that wanted the finel adjustable shelving I always used these:

http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/255-se...knape-and-vogt

No doubt you have used your share of those! I liked them because they were a kill shot for ease of installation. Run the router against the guide along the length of the casing side, flip it around, do the same, and then screw the pilaster in. Easy! Better still, if we had the table saw out on the job the dado blade made short work of that slotting requirement. And if you used the same index to set all four of them, they were always square and in adjustment.

They came in brass, antique brass, white, walnut, brown, tan, from the factory and had clips to match. Roll down that page linked above and you can see the clips with the rubber pads we used to use for glass shelving.

Waaaaaaaay back then people didn't want holes with pegs or some kind of clip that fit in a drilled hole. They thought it looked amateurish (even though significantly harder to get right) to have all the holes, and didn't want folks to think they had cabinets built in someone's garage as a hobby. Some thought it looked to much like the manufactured Danish furniture you bought in a box and assembled at your house (think before IKEA invaded the USA).

Fast forward to now, and holes are back in fashion as my cabinet guy tells me his clients think they add a hand crafted touch. He builds his cabinets and will have a few holes drilled in a compartment that allow adjustable shelving to be used.

Haven't seen him in a while. I should look him up and show him your hole jig.

Robert

I used the steel pilasters and clips on the book case in my office, I
built it about 33 years ago. ;~) Next time you are out I'll show it to
you.

Here is the manufacturer web site. Friendly guy and very helpful with
information on his product.

http://www.precisioncasewerk.com/products.html