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How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 12:30 PM, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:25:00 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Absolutely. But there's always a chance I'm reading their specs wrong. Best thing to do is to call their tech support and ask them their recommendation for the specifics of your application. People often mistakenly presume that the purpose of cement board is to fortify or strengthen a sub-floor with too much deflection. That is not its purpose at all and it would be very poor at doing so. Remember, the cement is serving two purposes. To uncouple the tile job from the sub-floor so they they can expand/contract independently of each other. And to prevent swelling (much greater and faster movement than seasonal expansion) of the sub-floor from moisture/water soaked into it from the wet environment above it. When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 3:05 PM, Morgans wrote:
"Michael" wrote ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Make sure you are understanding what material we are talking about. Hardboard is masonite type stuff, sometimes used as pegboard or as a base in making paneling. Don't use that. Hardiboard is not anything, but it is close to describing the real product we are talking about. The name of the stuff we are talking about is called hardibacker. Brand name. If you use that, then the answer is as follows. Sure. That is exactly what it is designed for. The key is to: Use a material that allows some movement in relation to the wood underneath it. Use a material that allows the mastic or grout to grab onto. Has a co-efficient of expansion similar to the stone or tile being installed on it. Does not deteriorate over time as it is exposed to the moisture always present when in contact with masonry products. Meet those requirements, and you have a winner. Hardibacker or cement board, both qualify. Correct. If anyone in this thread thought we were referring to the dark brown paper press-board they use to make pegboard sheet from, then disregard this entire thread! :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 3:30:22 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/12/14, 12:30 PM, Michael wrote: On Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:25:00 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Absolutely. But there's always a chance I'm reading their specs wrong. Best thing to do is to call their tech support and ask them their recommendation for the specifics of your application. People often mistakenly presume that the purpose of cement board is to fortify or strengthen a sub-floor with too much deflection. That is not its purpose at all and it would be very poor at doing so. Remember, the cement is serving two purposes. To uncouple the tile job from the sub-floor so they they can expand/contract independently of each other. And to prevent swelling (much greater and faster movement than seasonal expansion) of the sub-floor from moisture/water soaked into it from the wet environment above it. When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Thanks for the info. That makes the bathroom project much more do-able. The internets was useful today. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
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How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 16:05:41 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote: "Michael" wrote ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Make sure you are understanding what material we are talking about. Hardboard is masonite type stuff, sometimes used as pegboard or as a base in making paneling. Don't use that. Hardiboard is not anything, but it is close to describing the real product we are talking about. The name of the stuff we are talking about is called hardibacker. Brand name. If you use that, then the answer is as follows. Yes. Thank you. I was thinking about Hardiboard ("no, that's not right - that's the clapboard stuff") and then Hardipanel ("no, that's the stuff for board-and-batten"), must be... rats! |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 15:30:22 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 4/12/14, 12:30 PM, Michael wrote: On Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:25:00 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Absolutely. But there's always a chance I'm reading their specs wrong. Best thing to do is to call their tech support and ask them their recommendation for the specifics of your application. People often mistakenly presume that the purpose of cement board is to fortify or strengthen a sub-floor with too much deflection. That is not its purpose at all and it would be very poor at doing so. Actually, it works very well for that purpose. It won't fix a rotten subfloor but it is as good or better than any other sheet goods for the purpose. The recommendations I've seen are a minimum of 1-1/4" of subflooring under tile. 3/4" ply with 1/2" Hardibacker works. Remember, the cement is serving two purposes. To uncouple the tile job from the sub-floor so they they can expand/contract independently of each other. And to prevent swelling (much greater and faster movement than seasonal expansion) of the sub-floor from moisture/water soaked into it from the wet environment above it. When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor. Interesting. I would have thought the tar paper would allow too much movement. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 14:13:32 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote: On Saturday, April 12, 2014 3:30:22 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 12:30 PM, Michael wrote: On Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:25:00 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Absolutely. But there's always a chance I'm reading their specs wrong. Best thing to do is to call their tech support and ask them their recommendation for the specifics of your application. People often mistakenly presume that the purpose of cement board is to fortify or strengthen a sub-floor with too much deflection. That is not its purpose at all and it would be very poor at doing so. Remember, the cement is serving two purposes. To uncouple the tile job from the sub-floor so they they can expand/contract independently of each other. And to prevent swelling (much greater and faster movement than seasonal expansion) of the sub-floor from moisture/water soaked into it from the wet environment above it. When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Thanks for the info. That makes the bathroom project much more do-able. The internets was useful today. It's a lot of work but none of it is all that difficult. Floor tile is easily a DIYer project. Wall tile is a bit more difficult, IMO. Gravity is working in your favor on the floor. ;-) |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
-MIKE- wrote:
When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor. Likewise, despite all of the recommended practices that people insist must be followed... I have torn out and remodeled too many bathrooms that were tile over plywood and have stood up for 50 years. That was a very common practice in the 60's. Those floors looked ugly but that was because of stylistic issues, but they were still solid. Tearing them out was a work out. No matter what anyone says about contraction rates, and all that other stuff - tile over plywood/luan has stood the test of time. It works. -- -Mike- |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 6:35 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote: When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor. Likewise, despite all of the recommended practices that people insist must be followed... I have torn out and remodeled too many bathrooms that were tile over plywood and have stood up for 50 years. That was a very common practice in the 60's. Those floors looked ugly but that was because of stylistic issues, but they were still solid. Tearing them out was a work out. No matter what anyone says about contraction rates, and all that other stuff - tile over plywood/luan has stood the test of time. It works. Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 5:32 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:25:00 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 21:55:33 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 9:39 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 9:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 8:40 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 8:44 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 3:28 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 3:26 PM, Michael wrote: What's the secret to painting OSB so that it doesn't look like painted OSB? It doesn't have to be great, just not so cheap-looking. Thanks. The secret is buying sanded, maple, or birch ply. There is no way to make a rough surface look good. It's like how to I take a piece of crap and turn it into gold... you just can't do it. OSB is an awful material in my opinion. It rots real quickly, Anything will rot when it stays wet. Wood building material aren't supposed to stay wet. it doesn't hold nails or screws real well. I'm curious, when's the last time you used it? I have it in my shop and it holds screws great! Especially those Spax screws designed for particle board. Well the house was built in 87 and that's the OSB I've primarily worked with and been frustrated with. Although I have a few sheets of OSB in the basement, that I am waiting to use on some garbage project. I got it for $1 and figured if I ever need a shipping crate it would be the tkt. That's what I figured. I remember working with the stuff in the late 80s and early 90s and it was pretty nasty. The OSB that's out now is much different. It's still OSB, so it is what it is. But I've found it to be much improved over the stuff from 25 years ago. If you ever run across Advantech or Norbord Truflor, check them out. They are very advanced OSB subflooring sheets and are great to work with and strong as an ox. Also, they are very water resistant. So for flooring the companies that make the mortar, or glues do not recommend OSB under any tile, or stone. There has to be a reason. But I would probably agree that the product has changed, but that doesn't help my problem of it being CRAP. It won't even hold a screw, it just flakes away... garbage. Have you been following the AZEK suits. The product is quickly failing in many locations.. yes there are many sucesses too. The problem is where it is failing. The company says we don't guarantee the look, but the product is cracking, chalking, etc... why would you buy a product that in less than a year is failing. Same with the OLD OSB.. it's crap.. that I will pay 4 times for. I have already started replacing sheathing. I have aluminum siding. So I have to replace sheathing, wrap, siding... And who's to pay.. I don't have that problem with PLY. Are the manufacturers going to pay... hell no. They sell it and walk away... You shouldn't put tile down over any wood product. Period. That's what cement board is for. I use Schluter-DITRA between sub-floor and tile and will never use cement board again. I'm sure the tile in my bathroom is over just the plywood. There are a couple of loose tiles by the tub because of it. It'll all come up in a year or so when we redo the bathroom (and get rid of the plastic shower stall). I've had very good results with Hardiboard under tile. Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. That would save 1/4", but I thought that was for walls (over sheetrock). Anyway, I wanted to stiffen the floors, too. Worked great. I'll probably use it again, on this house. I have four bathrooms and a laundry to do (I hate vinyl flooring). 3/4"-1/4"=1/2", no? According to their website, it's for floors, too. Again, I always call their tech support to clarify their published product specs when matched against my project specs. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 5:39 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 15:30:22 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 12:30 PM, Michael wrote: On Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:25:00 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Absolutely. But there's always a chance I'm reading their specs wrong. Best thing to do is to call their tech support and ask them their recommendation for the specifics of your application. People often mistakenly presume that the purpose of cement board is to fortify or strengthen a sub-floor with too much deflection. That is not its purpose at all and it would be very poor at doing so. Actually, it works very well for that purpose. It won't fix a rotten subfloor but it is as good or better than any other sheet goods for the purpose. We'll have to agree to disagree on that. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:12:06 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:32 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:25:00 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 21:55:33 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 9:39 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 9:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 8:40 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 8:44 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 3:28 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 3:26 PM, Michael wrote: What's the secret to painting OSB so that it doesn't look like painted OSB? It doesn't have to be great, just not so cheap-looking. Thanks. The secret is buying sanded, maple, or birch ply. There is no way to make a rough surface look good. It's like how to I take a piece of crap and turn it into gold... you just can't do it. OSB is an awful material in my opinion. It rots real quickly, Anything will rot when it stays wet. Wood building material aren't supposed to stay wet. it doesn't hold nails or screws real well. I'm curious, when's the last time you used it? I have it in my shop and it holds screws great! Especially those Spax screws designed for particle board. Well the house was built in 87 and that's the OSB I've primarily worked with and been frustrated with. Although I have a few sheets of OSB in the basement, that I am waiting to use on some garbage project. I got it for $1 and figured if I ever need a shipping crate it would be the tkt. That's what I figured. I remember working with the stuff in the late 80s and early 90s and it was pretty nasty. The OSB that's out now is much different. It's still OSB, so it is what it is. But I've found it to be much improved over the stuff from 25 years ago. If you ever run across Advantech or Norbord Truflor, check them out. They are very advanced OSB subflooring sheets and are great to work with and strong as an ox. Also, they are very water resistant. So for flooring the companies that make the mortar, or glues do not recommend OSB under any tile, or stone. There has to be a reason. But I would probably agree that the product has changed, but that doesn't help my problem of it being CRAP. It won't even hold a screw, it just flakes away... garbage. Have you been following the AZEK suits. The product is quickly failing in many locations.. yes there are many sucesses too. The problem is where it is failing. The company says we don't guarantee the look, but the product is cracking, chalking, etc... why would you buy a product that in less than a year is failing. Same with the OLD OSB.. it's crap.. that I will pay 4 times for. I have already started replacing sheathing. I have aluminum siding. So I have to replace sheathing, wrap, siding... And who's to pay.. I don't have that problem with PLY. Are the manufacturers going to pay... hell no. They sell it and walk away... You shouldn't put tile down over any wood product. Period. That's what cement board is for. I use Schluter-DITRA between sub-floor and tile and will never use cement board again. I'm sure the tile in my bathroom is over just the plywood. There are a couple of loose tiles by the tub because of it. It'll all come up in a year or so when we redo the bathroom (and get rid of the plastic shower stall). I've had very good results with Hardiboard under tile. Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. That would save 1/4", but I thought that was for walls (over sheetrock). Anyway, I wanted to stiffen the floors, too. Worked great. I'll probably use it again, on this house. I have four bathrooms and a laundry to do (I hate vinyl flooring). 3/4"-1/4"=1/2", no? -(Thinset x 2) According to their website, it's for floors, too. Again, I always call their tech support to clarify their published product specs when matched against my project specs. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:02:52 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 7:56 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:12:06 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:32 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:25:00 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 9:52 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 21:55:33 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 9:39 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 9:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 8:40 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 8:44 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 3:28 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 4/11/2014 3:26 PM, Michael wrote: What's the secret to painting OSB so that it doesn't look like painted OSB? It doesn't have to be great, just not so cheap-looking. Thanks. The secret is buying sanded, maple, or birch ply. There is no way to make a rough surface look good. It's like how to I take a piece of crap and turn it into gold... you just can't do it. OSB is an awful material in my opinion. It rots real quickly, Anything will rot when it stays wet. Wood building material aren't supposed to stay wet. it doesn't hold nails or screws real well. I'm curious, when's the last time you used it? I have it in my shop and it holds screws great! Especially those Spax screws designed for particle board. Well the house was built in 87 and that's the OSB I've primarily worked with and been frustrated with. Although I have a few sheets of OSB in the basement, that I am waiting to use on some garbage project. I got it for $1 and figured if I ever need a shipping crate it would be the tkt. That's what I figured. I remember working with the stuff in the late 80s and early 90s and it was pretty nasty. The OSB that's out now is much different. It's still OSB, so it is what it is. But I've found it to be much improved over the stuff from 25 years ago. If you ever run across Advantech or Norbord Truflor, check them out. They are very advanced OSB subflooring sheets and are great to work with and strong as an ox. Also, they are very water resistant. So for flooring the companies that make the mortar, or glues do not recommend OSB under any tile, or stone. There has to be a reason. But I would probably agree that the product has changed, but that doesn't help my problem of it being CRAP. It won't even hold a screw, it just flakes away... garbage. Have you been following the AZEK suits. The product is quickly failing in many locations.. yes there are many sucesses too. The problem is where it is failing. The company says we don't guarantee the look, but the product is cracking, chalking, etc... why would you buy a product that in less than a year is failing. Same with the OLD OSB.. it's crap.. that I will pay 4 times for. I have already started replacing sheathing. I have aluminum siding. So I have to replace sheathing, wrap, siding... And who's to pay.. I don't have that problem with PLY. Are the manufacturers going to pay... hell no. They sell it and walk away... You shouldn't put tile down over any wood product. Period. That's what cement board is for. I use Schluter-DITRA between sub-floor and tile and will never use cement board again. I'm sure the tile in my bathroom is over just the plywood. There are a couple of loose tiles by the tub because of it. It'll all come up in a year or so when we redo the bathroom (and get rid of the plastic shower stall). I've had very good results with Hardiboard under tile. Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs. FWIW, Hardiboard comes in 1/4" thickness for use on floors. That would save 1/4", but I thought that was for walls (over sheetrock). Anyway, I wanted to stiffen the floors, too. Worked great. I'll probably use it again, on this house. I have four bathrooms and a laundry to do (I hate vinyl flooring). 3/4"-1/4"=1/2", no? -(Thinset x 2) I guess I falsely assumed that 3/4" referred to the thickness of the hardibacker. Oops. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 7:57 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:02:52 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem. That's a whole 'nother debate. Many jurisdictions have some pretty ridiculous codes with many requirements based on little more than old wives tales or an anomalous occurrence that happened once but was sensationalized. I think sprinklers are a pretty cheap and easy preventative measure that don't have any more inherent problems than the plumbing already in the walls. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
I have two sheets of OSB that have been used as shipping container sides.
They have weathered heavy storms and week long rain. Now they are made to stand water! Phew. Used a 4x8 sheet on top of a 4x8 pallet on my tractor fork and loaded a pickup load of plants and small trees. Now it is handy as a work center and saves taking each and every plant or tree by hand. The new flake OSB is tight and strong like it was designed for. 40 years ago they made it with water soluble and it was used on homes. Those melted after months. Caught that builder with his pants down! Martin On 4/12/2014 5:35 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 16:05:41 -0400, "Morgans" wrote: "Michael" wrote ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Are you saying that 1/4 hardboard over plywood will work for tile? Make sure you are understanding what material we are talking about. Hardboard is masonite type stuff, sometimes used as pegboard or as a base in making paneling. Don't use that. Hardiboard is not anything, but it is close to describing the real product we are talking about. The name of the stuff we are talking about is called hardibacker. Brand name. If you use that, then the answer is as follows. Yes. Thank you. I was thinking about Hardiboard ("no, that's not right - that's the clapboard stuff") and then Hardipanel ("no, that's the stuff for board-and-batten"), must be... rats! |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
-MIKE- wrote:
Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. Bull****! That is the voice of no experience. I've just seen way too much of tile over thinset over ply/luan to ever let anyone say this. Apparently you haven't Mike. -- -Mike- |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. WHAT?? I did my kitchen counters 17 years ago, you mean they are now kaput? Oh, wait...I used mastic, not thinset :) -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 22:55:16 -0500, Swingman wrote: And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and structural engineering/building codes to mitigate that as an issue to basically a moot point. What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden by wall coverings. DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and commercial. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
"Swingman" wrote in message
... On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 22:55:16 -0500, Swingman wrote: And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and structural engineering/building codes to mitigate that as an issue to basically a moot point. What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden by wall coverings. DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and commercial. There seems to be a gap between the ideal and the typical when it comes to this stuff... It is not unusual for me to see exposed 2x4 trusses or I-Joists in basements in newer homes I've been in... That includes a friend's 10,000 sq foot home that is about 6 years old... the majority of the basement is finished but the ceilings of the two mechanical rooms and the dead storage rooms (as compared to the pantry room, are not and the trusses are exposed. Arguably, the mechanical rooms with the furnaces, A/Cs, humidifiers, hot water heaters, heater and filter for the indoor lap pool, electrical panels, etc. should be the rooms with the most fire resistant construction... It wasn't too long ago I read an article in either Fine Homebuilding or Journal of Light Construction about putting drywall on the sides of the 2x4 trusses to make them more fire resistant... this was a retrofitting process, not a construction phase process. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not noting the issues. John |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 07:14:48 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 22:55:16 -0500, Swingman wrote: And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and structural engineering/building codes to mitigate that as an issue to basically a moot point. What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden by wall coverings. It's an unfinished basement. The first-floor joists are exposed. I expect that when these are finished, a very small percentage are even sheetrocked. Most would have suspended ceilings, so no protection there, either. I don't intend to finish the ceiling because it's my shop (probably will cover the walls). I was wondering if you were talking about some sort of treatment of the I-beams themselves. DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and commercial. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 10:39:28 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote: "Swingman" wrote in message m... On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 22:55:16 -0500, Swingman wrote: And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and structural engineering/building codes to mitigate that as an issue to basically a moot point. What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden by wall coverings. DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and commercial. There seems to be a gap between the ideal and the typical when it comes to this stuff... It is not unusual for me to see exposed 2x4 trusses or I-Joists in basements in newer homes I've been in... That includes a friend's 10,000 sq foot home that is about 6 years old... the majority of the basement is finished but the ceilings of the two mechanical rooms and the dead storage rooms (as compared to the pantry room, are not and the trusses are exposed. Arguably, the mechanical rooms with the furnaces, A/Cs, humidifiers, hot water heaters, heater and filter for the indoor lap pool, electrical panels, etc. should be the rooms with the most fire resistant construction... My house is about 40% of that size (1-1/2 story) but the basement is completely unfinished. There are only two of us so it's not like I need more living space but the shop space is nice. ;-) It wasn't too long ago I read an article in either Fine Homebuilding or Journal of Light Construction about putting drywall on the sides of the 2x4 trusses to make them more fire resistant... this was a retrofitting process, not a construction phase process. Wow! With plumbing and electrical, that sounds like a *major* undertaking. Rocking the ceiling would be much simpler. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not noting the issues. ....or it's not the code. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 20:38:00 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 4/12/14, 7:57 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:02:52 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem. That's a whole 'nother debate. Many jurisdictions have some pretty ridiculous codes with many requirements based on little more than old wives tales or an anomalous occurrence that happened once but was sensationalized. That's well (under-)stated! You just described the entire federal government. I think sprinklers are a pretty cheap and easy preventative measure that don't have any more inherent problems than the plumbing already in the walls. That assumes you have an unlimited water supply. AFAIK, you need more than a 3/4" street connection to support them. Then there's the problem of false trips. It *does* happen and water will do as much damage as a fire (that's most of the damage in most residential fires, where the fire department "saves" the structure). I was talking with some VFW folks when I was in VT. They were forcing them to install a sprinkler system that was going to set them back around $100K. The stupid part is that it's a one-story building, on a slab, that has windows all around. You can't be more than ~30' from a possible exit (and they're in all directions). But, rules are rules. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/13/14, 4:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. WHAT?? I did my kitchen counters 17 years ago, you mean they are now kaput? Oh, wait...I used mastic, not thinset :) Do a lot of walking around on those counters, do you? :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/14, 10:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote: Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. Bull****! That is the voice of no experience. I've just seen way too much of tile over thinset over ply/luan to ever let anyone say this. Apparently you haven't Mike. I would never call you a liar, Mike. Passive aggressive, maybe, but never a liar. :-D My question would be how much? How many of these have you seen? Are you sure there was not cement bed under the tile/thin-set? Even a thin one that perhaps could be mistaken for the thin-set used to attach the tile? Perhaps there's something about Luan in this equation. I know most 1/4' Luan is quite a different animal than other sheet goods with how stiff Luan is compared to the stuff they put in the middle of the sandwich. Perhaps that stuff in the middle allows for flexibility like the Schluter Ditra sheets do. Not arguing, here, just honestly curious. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
On 4/13/14, 4:48 AM, dadiOH wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. WHAT?? I did my kitchen counters 17 years ago, you mean they are now kaput? Oh, wait...I used mastic, not thinset :) Do a lot of walking around on those counters, do you? :-) Actually, I have. And I weigh 215 sob -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/13/2014 9:39 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
There seems to be a gap between the ideal and the typical when it comes to this stuff.. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out.. By definition, five out of every ten folks who take a breath daily fall on the left side of the bell curve with regard to intelligence. The times we live in ... those of us who were raised in a time when there was more value placed on being conscientious, than in being cunning, do what we can. After that it becomes inevitable that it is every man for himself. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
-MIKE- wrote:
On 4/12/14, 10:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: -MIKE- wrote: Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. Bull****! That is the voice of no experience. I've just seen way too much of tile over thinset over ply/luan to ever let anyone say this. Apparently you haven't Mike. I would never call you a liar, Mike. Passive aggressive, maybe, but never a liar. :-D Passive Agressive? Hell no - simply aggressive from time to time... My question would be how much? How many of these have you seen? Are you sure there was not cement bed under the tile/thin-set? Even a thin one that perhaps could be mistaken for the thin-set used to attach the tile? Perhaps there's something about Luan in this equation. I know most 1/4' Luan is quite a different animal than other sheet goods with how stiff Luan is compared to the stuff they put in the middle of the sandwich. Perhaps that stuff in the middle allows for flexibility like the Schluter Ditra sheets do. Not arguing, here, just honestly curious. Yeah - I wasn't really trying to argue either Mike. I really don't know the answers to what you just asked (above). It would be interesting to look for that next time I encounter one of these. It's not like I do this every day - or even all that regularly, so it may be a while before I undertake another. -- -Mike- |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/13/14, 12:26 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message On 4/13/14, 4:48 AM, dadiOH wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. WHAT?? I did my kitchen counters 17 years ago, you mean they are now kaput? Oh, wait...I used mastic, not thinset :) Do a lot of walking around on those counters, do you? :-) Actually, I have. And I weigh 215 sob I think you get my point. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
wrote in Wow! With plumbing and electrical, that sounds like a *major* undertaking. Rocking the ceiling would be much simpler. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not noting the issues. ...or it's not the code. ALL the code is concerned about as far as residential fireproofing goes is to: Give the resident time to recognize there is a fire and get out. In most cases, that is a 20 minute burn through. If the fire is severe enough to test the fireproofing of trusses and such, there is nothing left to save, anyway. It is a total loss, and as such, the fire department wages a protection battle to make sure it does not spread, and that is the end of that. Pour water on from the outside, and let it burn. -- Jim in NC --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/13/2014 10:39 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 22:55:16 -0500, Swingman wrote: And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and structural engineering/building codes to mitigate that as an issue to basically a moot point. What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden by wall coverings. DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and commercial. There seems to be a gap between the ideal and the typical when it comes to this stuff... It is not unusual for me to see exposed 2x4 trusses or I-Joists in basements in newer homes I've been in... That includes a friend's 10,000 sq foot home that is about 6 years old... the majority WHAT 10k sq foot... what does he do for a living, drug sales? My wife and I always kid about the McMansions around here, what the hell do they do.... of the basement is finished but the ceilings of the two mechanical rooms and the dead storage rooms (as compared to the pantry room, are not and the trusses are exposed. Arguably, the mechanical rooms with the furnaces, A/Cs, humidifiers, hot water heaters, heater and filter for the indoor lap pool, electrical panels, etc. should be the rooms with the most fire resistant construction... It wasn't too long ago I read an article in either Fine Homebuilding or Journal of Light Construction about putting drywall on the sides of the 2x4 trusses to make them more fire resistant... this was a retrofitting process, not a construction phase process. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not noting the issues. John -- Jeff |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/13/2014 10:39 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 22:55:16 -0500, Swingman wrote: And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and structural engineering/building codes to mitigate that as an issue to basically a moot point. What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden by wall coverings. DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and commercial. There seems to be a gap between the ideal and the typical when it comes to this stuff... It is not unusual for me to see exposed 2x4 trusses or I-Joists in basements in newer homes I've been in... That includes a friend's 10,000 sq foot home that is about 6 years old... the majority of the basement is finished but the ceilings of the two mechanical rooms and the dead storage rooms (as compared to the pantry room, are not and the trusses are exposed. Arguably, the mechanical rooms with the furnaces, A/Cs, humidifiers, hot water heaters, heater and filter for the indoor lap pool, electrical panels, etc. should be the rooms with the most fire resistant construction... It wasn't too long ago I read an article in either Fine Homebuilding or Journal of Light Construction about putting drywall on the sides of the 2x4 trusses to make them more fire resistant... this was a retrofitting process, not a construction phase process. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not noting the issues. John Wouldn't it be easier to spray a fire retardent spray on them, and offer more protection? You have all the plumbing and wiriring to work around and re-seal. -- Jeff |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/12/2014 9:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/12/14, 7:57 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:02:52 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem. That's a whole 'nother debate. Many jurisdictions have some pretty ridiculous codes with many requirements based on little more than old wives tales or an anomalous occurrence that happened once but was sensationalized. I think sprinklers are a pretty cheap and easy preventative measure that don't have any more inherent problems than the plumbing already in the walls. I'm not a big fan of sprinklers... kids play ball inside, knock the glass out.... and you have a disaster. Someone is painting knocks the glass out, and you have a runny mess disaster. Someone pops a champaign cork and thinks it's great to let if fly... and you have a party disaster. On the other hand, I think it can save lives. I heard on the news, that they want to make it mandatory in NJ, and I would guess by the wording that the announcers were reading, that would be required to sell your home... so you would not be grandfathered... How costly would that be. -- Jeff |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 16:56:27 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 4/13/14, 12:26 PM, dadiOH wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message On 4/13/14, 4:48 AM, dadiOH wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time. Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes. WHAT?? I did my kitchen counters 17 years ago, you mean they are now kaput? Oh, wait...I used mastic, not thinset :) Do a lot of walking around on those counters, do you? :-) Actually, I have. And I weigh 215 sob I think you get my point. :-) Actually have a adhesive failure on counter top of about 11 months, but is just the ends by the stove. Self cleaning oven must be a bit to hot. Mark |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:47:08 -0400, woodchucker
wrote: On 4/12/2014 9:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 7:57 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:02:52 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem. That's a whole 'nother debate. Many jurisdictions have some pretty ridiculous codes with many requirements based on little more than old wives tales or an anomalous occurrence that happened once but was sensationalized. I think sprinklers are a pretty cheap and easy preventative measure that don't have any more inherent problems than the plumbing already in the walls. I'm not a big fan of sprinklers... kids play ball inside, knock the glass out.... and you have a disaster. Someone is painting knocks the glass out, and you have a runny mess disaster. Someone pops a champaign cork and thinks it's great to let if fly... and you have a party disaster. On the other hand, I think it can save lives. I heard on the news, that they want to make it mandatory in NJ, and I would guess by the wording that the announcers were reading, that would be required to sell your home... so you would not be grandfathered... How costly would that be. Ontario is considering requiring sprinklers in residences larger than so many sq feet (or meters). This allows people to get out from anywhere in the residence in case of a fire. Also, firemen will often enter a sprinklered building to fight the fire, thereby protecting property - when they will not enter a nonsprinklered building the same size and construction under the same conditions. And they will NOT enter a building with steel roof trusses, while they WILL with timber, because timber chars and remains strong long past the point where steel web joists soften, buckle, and fail. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On 4/11/2014 2:26 PM, Michael wrote:
What's the secret to painting OSB so that it doesn't look like painted OSB? It doesn't have to be great, just not so cheap-looking. Thanks. Despite so many nay sayers, I have made several outstanding things from MDF. Anywhere that it has been cut, routed, or is just the porous edge will soak up paint forever, so the trick is to seal the cuts. Drywall compound works. shellac and latex metal primer work well also. You do need to sand the edges with fine paper. It takes paint beatifully. I have done a few things in high gloss black that I defy you to tell what I used -- ___________________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . Dan G remove the seven |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:26:24 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote: wrote in Wow! With plumbing and electrical, that sounds like a *major* undertaking. Rocking the ceiling would be much simpler. I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not noting the issues. ...or it's not the code. ALL the code is concerned about as far as residential fireproofing goes is to: Give the resident time to recognize there is a fire and get out. In most cases, that is a 20 minute burn through. Sure, that's been my position all along. If the fire is severe enough to test the fireproofing of trusses and such, there is nothing left to save, anyway. It is a total loss, and as such, the fire department wages a protection battle to make sure it does not spread, and that is the end of that. Pour water on from the outside, and let it burn. Yes, I've said that the fire department's job is to save the neighbor's house. I agree 100% but in this case there is *no* fireproofing on the I-beams (completely unfinished basement). The beams are exposed to the world, save for a little fiberglass stuffed between (the all-important bottom rail is still bare). AFAIK, there is no code that says the I-beams have to be covered. The house has a CO. |
How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 19:41:46 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:47:08 -0400, woodchucker wrote: On 4/12/2014 9:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 7:57 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 19:02:52 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, wrote: On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 11:29:27 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/12/14, 10:11 AM, wrote: On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 23:00:36 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... The downside is that in a fire they fail far quicker than dimension lumber... Are you thinking of metal wire trusses? No, the wooden floor trusses used in residential construction... plated 2x4 web (or I-joists for that matter) fail before dimension lumber joists in similar fire conditions. Makes sense, but I think the trade-off is worth it. A fire is a fire. ****'s going down. :-) Yeah, but it's a matter of whether it goes down before or after we get out. ;-) The fire department's job is to protect the neighbor's house. If it's *really* a problem, then why don't codes require new home construction to have sprinkler systems installed? My friend's house came with them. Because it isn't really a problem. My point, exactly. Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem. That's a whole 'nother debate. Many jurisdictions have some pretty ridiculous codes with many requirements based on little more than old wives tales or an anomalous occurrence that happened once but was sensationalized. I think sprinklers are a pretty cheap and easy preventative measure that don't have any more inherent problems than the plumbing already in the walls. I'm not a big fan of sprinklers... kids play ball inside, knock the glass out.... and you have a disaster. Someone is painting knocks the glass out, and you have a runny mess disaster. Someone pops a champaign cork and thinks it's great to let if fly... and you have a party disaster. On the other hand, I think it can save lives. I heard on the news, that they want to make it mandatory in NJ, and I would guess by the wording that the announcers were reading, that would be required to sell your home... so you would not be grandfathered... How costly would that be. Ontario is considering requiring sprinklers in residences larger than so many sq feet (or meters). This allows people to get out from anywhere in the residence in case of a fire. Also, firemen will often enter a sprinklered building to fight the fire, thereby protecting property - when they will not enter a nonsprinklered building the same size and construction under the same conditions. And they will NOT enter a building with steel roof trusses, while they WILL with timber, because timber chars and remains strong long past the point where steel web joists soften, buckle, and fail. They're not going to save a house that's fully engulfed. A fire chief of a midsize city once told me that if they have to use more than 50gal of water on a house fire, it's a likely total loss. It's not the fire that does the damage, rather the smoke and in particular, the water. He guaranteed that if he emptied his pumper on a house it would be totaled. |
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