Blade guard
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself
trying to think like one in recent days. By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present purposes. It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or similar. I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4 (for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general). BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces. Bill |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself trying to think like one in recent days. By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present purposes. It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or similar. I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4 (for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general). BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces. Bill It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported 2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough (to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.) |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself trying to think like one in recent days. By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present purposes. It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or similar. I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4 (for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general). BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces. Bill It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported 2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough (to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.) It occurred to me where I've seen something akin (not ken) to what I'm looking for. Around the house, my wife has clothes on hooks which "hang around the tops of doors". That's precisely in the spirit of what I'm seeking. |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself trying to think like one in recent days. By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present purposes. It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or similar. I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4 (for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general). BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces. Bill The item in the link below seems needlessly complex, but is pretty close to what I need. It is upside down in the picture, compared to what I have in mind. I'm sure I could cobble something together myself: Bend a piece of sheet steel into a U (with square corners), so it fits over a 2by4. Drill holes through it for a couple of bolts underneath--done. The holes would go through the "hanging beam". The only problem with that is it might 'swing'. I need it steady--no pendulum. http://www.plowhearth.com/product.as...FbBAMgodJXsASA |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
The item in the link below seems needlessly complex, but is pretty close to what I need. It is upside down in the picture, compared to what I have in mind. I'm sure I could cobble something together myself: Bend a piece of sheet steel into a U (with square corners),... As I was laying in bed this morning, it occurred to me again how closely this "chase" mimics "humans use of tools". Its right up there with Lew's "Thinking Chair". The activity must create a lot of endorphins (or something like that) because it seems to perpetuate itself. Bill |
Blade guard
Larry Kraus wrote:
Bill wrote: Bill wrote: The item in the link below seems needlessly complex, but is pretty close to what I need. It is upside down in the picture, compared to what I have in mind. I'm sure I could cobble something together myself: Bend a piece of sheet steel into a U (with square corners),... As I was laying in bed this morning, it occurred to me again how closely this "chase" mimics "humans use of tools". Its right up there with Lew's "Thinking Chair". The activity must create a lot of endorphins (or something like that) because it seems to perpetuate itself. Bill I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own posts you will have this totally sorted out! Larry, I don't always post just because I have questions. I am helping to "Create Content"! I think that most people who write (good) books are students in disguise. Maybe I could publish this project in a woodworking magazine? : ) -Bill Schwartz? P.S. Thanks for posting to the thread! : ) I really don't wish to bore everyone to death, so I didn't sayanything about "hooks around dimensional lumber" (like under a paint holder on a ladder) above. |
Blade guard
Larry Kraus wrote:
I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own posts you will have this totally sorted out! Hush! Don't give away my secrets!!! : ) |
Blade guard
On 12/23/2013 1:20 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Kraus wrote: I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own posts you will have this totally sorted out! Hush! Don't give away my secrets!!! : ) Lemmee help. Anybody out there have plans for a pointy stick? Woodworkers Orgasm Magazine says that the Binford 3K is the best blurfl around. Anybody have other opinions? Can we start a thread on the stupidest way to trash the president? Now I will disappear. Happy Holidaze all. mahalo, [anon] |
Blade guard
jo4hn wrote:
On 12/23/2013 1:20 PM, Bill wrote: Larry Kraus wrote: I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own posts you will have this totally sorted out! Hush! Don't give away my secrets!!! : ) Lemmee help. Anybody out there have plans for a pointy stick? Woodworkers Orgasm Magazine says that the Binford 3K is the best blurfl around. Anybody have other opinions? Can we start a thread on the stupidest way to trash the president? Now I will disappear. Happy Holidaze all. mahalo, [anon] Mr. Mahalo, Think of it as "Call and Response" (a beautiful musical concept). Bill |
Blade guard
jo4hn wrote in
m: Lemmee help. Anybody out there have plans for a pointy stick? Woodworkers Orgasm Magazine says that the Binford 3K is the best blurfl around. Anybody have other opinions? Can we start a thread on the stupidest way to trash the president? Now I will disappear. Happy Holidaze all. mahalo, [anon] I made a pointy stick a few weeks ago. It needed to be pointy on the end, with the point facing the inside. I'm sure the procedure would be different if the point needed to face the outside. As it was, I had to turn the stick around and cut the inside on the outside but it worked just fine. A round pointy stick calls for a lathe, right? Well, that calls for a chuck or careful turning between centers and I didn't have any of that. I chucked a dowel into my trusty Makita and reached for my trusty block plane. I use that block plane more than just about anything except the tools I use more than. Spin the drill, hold the plane up to the drill and in seconds I've got a pointy stick. If you need one that points the other way, put the drill in reverse and cut it from the other side. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
Blade guard
On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 19:11:18 -0500, Bill
wrote: Bill wrote: I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself trying to think like one in recent days. By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present purposes. It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or similar. I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4 (for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general). BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces. Bill It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported 2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough (to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.) Just a question as it seems like your planning to mount your guard to the ceiling, Since you went to great trouble to get the mobile base under the saw, are you planning on moving the saw regularly? If so you might be ahead to look at how Biesemeyer does there overhead guard. If I read correct your copying their gurard but mounting it to the ceiling. If you can weld it would be easy to fabricate one that attaches to your table, other wise when you move the saw out of the way you have an obstacle to walk into. If you don't plan on moving the saw again then it wouldn't matter. I just checked the price on the system now and I can understand why you don't want to just buy one. Starting to realize what a good deal I got when I bought my used unisaw. Mike M |
Blade guard
Mike M wrote:
On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 19:11:18 -0500, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself trying to think like one in recent days. By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present purposes. It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or similar. I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4 (for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general). BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces. Bill It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported 2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough (to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.) Just a question as it seems like your planning to mount your guard to the ceiling, I am not planning to mount it to the ceiling now Mike, but perhaps eventually. I am presently planning to attach it, via linkage, to a 2by4 supported between two A-Frames (no "rocket science" going on there). I'll start with a four or five foot 2by4 and see how that works. That will make it easy enough to move a few feet to the left or right, as necessary. The TS does move easily on it's mobile base, but the whole floor does not lie in a plane. I haven't had the TS long enough to say exactly where it is going to stay. In fact, I'm still eager to turn it on for the first time! Besides tuning (a side-table fell out of alignment), I still need to install the appropriate type of outlet (it was 4-degrees F. last week). At some point, I may bring-in dust collection, or a jointer, and I would probably adjust the location of the saw for that. Eventually, I can imagine attaching the guard to the ceiling, and that would not be a huge issue. It appears that most of the time will go into making the hood of the blade guard. I've observed that I could buy one for $30--but not nearly as nice of one (see below). I've learned a shop is, or would do well to be, a dynamic animal--especially a small shop. My 20' by 24' space is looking smaller all the time (especially due to the squatters!) I think DadiOH taught me that expression, and it always makes me smile (sort of). I borrowed (i.e. took) the idea for the blade guard itself from Jason Beamer. Each of its 4 sides slide-up under *appropriate* directional force. But his guard appears to be 23" long! Before I start cutting, I will build a prototype (out of cardboard, etc), and see if I can shorten it and still capture its desirable features. The design for the linkage was basically a function of it's constraints. One of them is that the top of the guard needs to be held firmly in place to offer the most safety. Another is that it needs to be "easily tunable" (so that it rests squarely on the table). I sort of enjoyed the 20 or 30 minutes it took me to work those features out (in the design). What I really mean, I guess, is that I enjoyed it after I was finished! : ) And surely, I didn't think of everything. In earlier posts, I went into detail about how I would like to adjust the location of the guard horizontally (by sliding along the beam). As you know better than I do, sometimes the blade needs to be pretty close to the fence. Since you went to great trouble to get the mobile base under the saw, are you planning on moving the saw regularly? Most of the trouble was re-attaching the 4-inch sub-base to the bottom of the cabinet. Although the saw tipped (almost over) in the process, moving it (dropping it?) into the mobile base was very little trouble. It is quite easy to manage the weight via the long rails, and by using shims. We had the saw 7 1/2" off the ground (using two stacks of five 24" 2by8s). Some of those pieces are soon be transformed into push sticks! : ) Cheers, Bill If so you might be ahead to look at how Biesemeyer does there overhead guard. If I read correct your copying their gurard but mounting it to the ceiling. If you can weld it would be easy to fabricate one that attaches to your table, other wise when you move the saw out of the way you have an obstacle to walk into. If you don't plan on moving the saw again then it wouldn't matter. I just checked the price on the system now and I can understand why you don't want to just buy one. Starting to realize what a good deal I got when I bought my used unisaw. Mike M |
Blade guard
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in : I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's a little glass humor...). As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a -- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd -- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70 Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full (4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer" Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one! Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys & Girls Clubs of America). I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't tried one). Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning tomorrow! Bill |
Blade guard
On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's a little glass humor...). As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a -- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd -- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70 Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full (4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer" Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one! Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys & Girls Clubs of America). I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't tried one). Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning tomorrow! Bill Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful. Consider that it would be great for many projects. Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in life we must adjust to the situation. -- Jeff |
Blade guard
woodchucker wrote:
On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's a little glass humor...). As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a -- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd -- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70 Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full (4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer" Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one! Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys & Girls Clubs of America). I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't tried one). Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning tomorrow! Bill Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful. Consider that it would be great for many projects. Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in life we must adjust to the situation. Thanks Jeff. Here is a link to a video showing the *actual guard* I want to make. The linkage and support are separate projects. Notice that the top of the guard never moves (while sawing). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM Bill |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote: On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's a little glass humor...). As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a -- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd -- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70 Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full (4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer" Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one! Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys & Girls Clubs of America). I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't tried one). Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning tomorrow! Bill Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful. Consider that it would be great for many projects. Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in life we must adjust to the situation. Thanks Jeff. Here is a link to a video showing the *actual guard* I want to make. The linkage and support are separate projects. Notice that the top of the guard never moves (while sawing). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM Bill Hey Bill - I don't know if this happens for everyone, but at least in my reader, your replies to people are run on with their original comments, which makes it difficult to sort out and find what you are saying without re-reading everything. I left the above text intact so you could see how it looks in my reader. Often times the gets kinda lost in the run together text which makes sorting out your comments difficult. My reader has put the various insertions in so your comments appear easier to see above, but when your posts arrive your comments don't have that so it's hard to sort out your text. Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just thought I'd let you know... -- -Mike- |
Blade guard
Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just thought I'd let you know... I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but I'll try a little harder). Whenever I post, I: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience! Bill |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just thought I'd let you know... I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but I'll try a little harder). Whenever I post, I: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience! Bill It seemed to have worked that time. This time I am typing directly into Thunderbird's html editor, and I have left 2 blank lines above. I bet they get dropped. Let's see. |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just thought I'd let you know... I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but I'll try a little harder). Whenever I post, I: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience! Bill It seemed to have worked that time. This time I am typing directly into Thunderbird's html editor, and I have left 2 blank lines above. I bet they get dropped. Let's see. Nope - they seem to have come through. -- -Mike- |
Blade guard
On 12/27/2013 8:46 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote: On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's a little glass humor...). As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a -- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd -- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70 Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full (4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer" Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one! Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys & Girls Clubs of America). I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't tried one). Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning tomorrow! Bill Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful. Consider that it would be great for many projects. Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in life we must adjust to the situation. Thanks Jeff. Here is a link to a video showing the *actual guard* I want to make. The linkage and support are separate projects. Notice that the top of the guard never moves (while sawing). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM Bill Ok, that won't require a counter balance. -- Jeff |
Blade guard
On 12/28/2013 2:18 AM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just thought I'd let you know... I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but I'll try a little harder). Whenever I post, I: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience! Bill Bill I use thunderbird too, just hit control plus in text mode it makes the text larger. -- Jeff |
Blade guard
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 02:18:02 -0500, Bill wrote:
1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large. -- This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub they ripped it off. |
Blade guard
On 12/28/2013 12:53 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 02:18:02 -0500, Bill wrote: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large. Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a text version only so no formatting in Tbird -- Jeff |
Blade guard
woodchucker wrote:
On 12/28/2013 2:18 AM, Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just thought I'd let you know... I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but I'll try a little harder). Whenever I post, I: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience! Bill Bill I use thunderbird too, just hit control plus in text mode it makes the text larger. I've been playing around with the configurations for a few minutes. BTW, I use the SeaMonkey email/newsgroup client (which is akin to Thunderbird)--not actually Thunderbird, but still "Mozilla", I think. I guess it is the "colored background" feature that I missed (more than size). I have a "particularly brilliant" monitor, and a colored background helps alot. Looking at a 23" white background tires the eyes... Bill |
Blade guard
"Bill" wrote: 1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text file. When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience! I've been playing around with the configurations for a few minutes. BTW, I use the SeaMonkey email/newsgroup client (which is akin to Thunderbird)--not actually Thunderbird, but still "Mozilla", I think. I guess it is the "colored background" feature that I missed (more than size). I have a "particularly brilliant" monitor, and a colored background helps alot. Looking at a 23" white background tires the eyes... ------------------------------------------------------------- What price paranoia. If Thunderbird duplicates O-E6, then open up a trash identity that only reads usenet. Problem solved. At least it was for me running XP. Lew |
Blade guard
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote:
Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large. Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a text version only so no formatting in Tbird In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the screen. I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong. -- This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub they ripped it off. |
Blade guard
On 12/28/2013 7:18 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote: Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large. Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a text version only so no formatting in Tbird In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the screen. I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong. Well they are different for mail vs newsgroups. The options are very different. BTW Tbird is upto 24.10 and maybe higher since it has wanted to upgrade me for 2 weeks, and I am holding off right now. So you are on a very old version. -- Jeff |
Blade guard
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote: Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large. Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a text version only so no formatting in Tbird In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the screen. I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong. I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. -- -Mike- |
Blade guard
Mike Marlow wrote:
I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background? Cheers, Bill |
Blade guard
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote: Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large. Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a text version only so no formatting in Tbird In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the screen. I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong. If I post a formatted message, without first passing it through a text editor (to clean it up), I think it would post with a lot of small errors. Not sure how you can "format" a text file. |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background? Cheers, Bill Might want to move this discussion to a different thread so folks don't abandon all interest in my blade guard! : ) |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background? I have to say Bill - I'm kind of surprised that your current client can't offer you that. Colored backgrounds are not really complex things - you'd think every client could offer that. -- -Mike- |
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Bill wrote:
If I post a formatted message, without first passing it through a text editor (to clean it up), I think it would post with a lot of small errors. Not sure how you can "format" a text file. Not sure what you are trying to say here Bill. What exactly, is the problem you are trying to solve? At a point one has to look at the fact that the vast majority of the people posting to usenet do not have to worry about these things, and question one's own thoughts. In other words - I think you may be imagining boogymen that just don't exist. Why not just use a newsreader and simply post like the rest of us do? -- -Mike- |
Blade guard
On 12/28/2013 10:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: If I post a formatted message, without first passing it through a text editor (to clean it up), I think it would post with a lot of small errors. Not sure how you can "format" a text file. Not sure what you are trying to say here Bill. What exactly, is the problem you are trying to solve? At a point one has to look at the fact that the vast majority of the people posting to usenet do not have to worry about these things, and question one's own thoughts. In other words - I think you may be imagining boogymen that just don't exist. Why not just use a newsreader and simply post like the rest of us do? Well, he's got a monkey on his back ;-) -- Jeff |
Blade guard
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background? I have to say Bill - I'm kind of surprised that your current client can't offer you that. Colored backgrounds are not really complex things - you'd think every client could offer that. They could if it was a priority. Evidently it's not. I'm not sure newsgroups are a priority to the developers. |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference or not. Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background? I have to say Bill - I'm kind of surprised that your current client can't offer you that. Colored backgrounds are not really complex things - you'd think every client could offer that. They could if it was a priority. Evidently it's not. I'm not sure newsgroups are a priority to the developers. It appearsthat after creating a new message, there is a Format menu-item under Options that will allow one to choose to create the message in Text--and it doesn't change the background color I see. That's at least fewer steps than before. This is the maiden-try--let's see how it posts. Bill |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
It appears that after creating a new message, there is a Format menu-item under Options that will allow one to choose to create the message in Text--and it doesn't change the background color I see. That's at least alot fewer steps than before. This is the maiden-try--let's see how it posts. Bill That was very nice of you folks to help me fix my newsgroup problem, that I wasn't even whining about! Now I just need to click one extra button every time I post (way better than the rigamarole I had been doing!) Best news years wishes! Bill |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Markem Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid the melting problem. I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year or so ago. And I've cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem. Same experience. AAMOF, the company I buy mine from has a Unisaw with a carbide blade setup in their shop specifically for that purpose. I have them rough cut the big sheets to make them easier to carry, then cut to spec on my table saw. I've also made angled cuts in polycarbonates using the TS-75 with no problems, and Have also used spiral router bits with good results. IME, the key component for good results seems to be high quality, carbide blades; and high quality spiral bits for routing. I don't doubt Swingman for a second. But after looking at $70 router bits (w/bearing), one become curious what they might accomplish with a BS and emery cloth. Even with a good router bit, the result would depend on making a good template. And this is a "One-of"-project. With the "naive approach", I would double-face tape two pieces together and cut and sand to the line. Please assess. I am considering using my router template (bushings?) kit, along with some double-fluted bits. According to the the folks who make Makrolon, HSS double or triple fluted bits can be used on the material (of course, that may indeed yield a lower standard). That raised a thought: It seems like, given a choice, one would want to use larger diameter bits, both for stability and to help disiplate any heat--though it would increase the effective speed (proportionally with diameter). In contrast, all of the spiral bits I've seen are of small diameter. I don't argue that smaller bits may be more versatile. I would have experimented already, but I'm going to have to make a make-shift router table to accomplish this task. Bill |
Blade guard
Bill wrote:
I am considering using my router template (bushings?) kit, along with some double-fluted bits. According to the the folks who make Makrolon, HSS double or triple fluted bits can be used on the material (of course, that may indeed yield a lower standard). That raised a thought: It seems like, given a choice, one would want to use larger diameter bits, both for stability and to help disiplate any heat--though it would increase the effective speed (proportionally with diameter). In contrast, all of the spiral bits I've seen are of small diameter. I don't argue that smaller bits may be more versatile. I would have experimented already, but I'm going to have to make a make-shift router table to accomplish this task. Bill I was reading at Pat Warner's website, and he indicates that large bits be avoided for the sake of unnecessary vibration (and resonance). Bill |
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