I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet. Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.

I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may not be a Grass product.

Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.

Thanks in advance!

Tom in PA wrote:
I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.
Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side
of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to
support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders
in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors
don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders
mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.

I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame
and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of
the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture
of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass
6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may
not be a Grass product.

Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.

Thanks in advance!

Inset or overlay?

Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF
with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not
solve your problem.

What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to
try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...productDetails

Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller
drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.

YMMV ...

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
Tom in PA wrote:
I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.
Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side
of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to
support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders
in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors
don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders
mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.

I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame
and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of
the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture
of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass
6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may
not be a Grass product.

Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.

Thanks in advance!

Inset or overlay?

Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF
with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not
solve your problem.

What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to
try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...productDetails

Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller
drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.

YMMV ...

FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be
using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen
refit:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21311

By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#
heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus
almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client
+/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle
for me. Well worth the higher price.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:38:14 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Tom in PA wrote:

I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.

Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side

of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to

support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders

in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors

don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders

mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.



I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I

recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame

and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of

the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture

of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass

6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may

not be a Grass product.



Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.



Thanks in advance!



Inset or overlay?



Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF

with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not

solve your problem.



What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly

occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to

try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:



http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...productDetails



Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller

drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.



YMMV ...



FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be

using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen

refit:



http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21311



By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#

heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus

almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client

+/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle

for me. Well worth the higher price.



--

www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Thanks for the comments! FYI, the doors are 1/2" overlay.
Can you tell me more about what you mean by "zero clearance hinge"? My problem is that when the cabinet door is open the doors don't clear the edge of the face frame, which is why the pull outs need to be spaced a bit into the cabinet. Does a zero clearance hinge solve that problem, or what exactly does it do?

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:11:34 PM UTC-7, Tom in PA wrote:
On Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:38:14 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:

Swingman wrote:



Tom in PA wrote:



I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet..



Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side



of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to



support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders



in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors



don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders



mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.







I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I



recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame



and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of



the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture



of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass



6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may



not be a Grass product.







Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.







Thanks in advance!







Inset or overlay?







Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF



with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not



solve your problem.







What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly



occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to



try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:







http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...productDetails







Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller



drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.







YMMV ...







FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be



using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen



refit:







http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21311







By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#



heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus



almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client



+/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle



for me. Well worth the higher price.







--



www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)



Thanks for the comments! FYI, the doors are 1/2" overlay.

Can you tell me more about what you mean by "zero clearance hinge"? My problem is that when the cabinet door is open the doors don't clear the edge of the face frame, which is why the pull outs need to be spaced a bit into the cabinet. Does a zero clearance hinge solve that problem, or what exactly does it do?

Forget that question.... I did a little more research and it looks like you're pointing me to the product I need. Thanks again!

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:38:14 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Tom in PA wrote:

I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.

Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side

of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to

support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders

in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors

don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders

mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.



I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I

recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame

and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of

the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture

of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass

6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may

not be a Grass product.



Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.



Thanks in advance!



Inset or overlay?



Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF

with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not

solve your problem.



What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly

occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to

try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:



http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Fa...productDetails



Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller

drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.



YMMV ...



FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be

using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen

refit:



http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21311



By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#

heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus

almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client

+/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle

for me. Well worth the higher price.



--

www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.

On 8/5/2013 1:21 AM, Tom in PA wrote:

Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.

Just one caveat ... you need to verify that the cabinet side of the door
hinge (attached to the FF) does not interfere with either the drawer
slide, or the drawer.

Generally no less than the usual light/medium duty slide's 1/2"
clearance between the drawer sides and the cabinet FF stile on each side
will give you enough clearance, but it still needs to be verified for
the style and brand of door hinge you're using.

It's these very issue that need to be addressed/verified, and the
availability of both drawer slides and door hinges insured, BEFORE you
build drawers and pullouts.


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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Monday, August 5, 2013 6:40:33 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
On 8/5/2013 1:21 AM, Tom in PA wrote:



Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.



Just one caveat ... you need to verify that the cabinet side of the door

hinge (attached to the FF) does not interfere with either the drawer

slide, or the drawer.



Generally no less than the usual light/medium duty slide's 1/2"

clearance between the drawer sides and the cabinet FF stile on each side

will give you enough clearance, but it still needs to be verified for

the style and brand of door hinge you're using.



It's these very issue that need to be addressed/verified, and the

availability of both drawer slides and door hinges insured, BEFORE you

build drawers and pullouts.





--

eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com

Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net

https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts

http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/

KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Again, thanks for the advice. I think I can handle this now!

On 8/7/2013 11:54 PM, Tom in PA wrote:

Again, thanks for the advice. I think I can handle this now!


Photos, are it never happened.


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eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)