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Plunge saw choices
Santa paid a late visit and I ended up holding some cash that
I want to apply to getting a plunge saw to cut sheet goods. None of my current tools work well enough, though to be honest, they work ok. I just want something that I don't have to hassle with to get a clean and accurate cut. I'm currently torn between the two Festool models. Of the two, I'm thinking EQ 75, but is it worth the extra dough ($175)? I haven't worked out the others in the equation (DeWalt, Makita) but understand they only offer one model and they are close to the Festool EQ 55. Does anyone have experience in making this decision and what did you decide? Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks, MJ |
Plunge saw choices
Get the Festool 55 saw if you are mainly cutting plywood and 4/4 stock. It will cut up to 8/4 with the rail. But its not designed for that. If your main use is ripping 8/4 or maybe even 12/4 solid hardwood, then the Festool 75 is the saw. It is much heavier and bigger and harder to use than the light nimble 55 saw.
On Tuesday, January 15, 2013 3:35:53 PM UTC-6, MJ wrote: Santa paid a late visit and I ended up holding some cash that I want to apply to getting a plunge saw to cut sheet goods. None of my current tools work well enough, though to be honest, they work ok. I just want something that I don't have to hassle with to get a clean and accurate cut. I'm currently torn between the two Festool models. Of the two, I'm thinking EQ 75, but is it worth the extra dough ($175)? I haven't worked out the others in the equation (DeWalt, Makita) but understand they only offer one model and they are close to the Festool EQ 55. Does anyone have experience in making this decision and what did you decide? Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks, MJ |
Plunge saw choices
MJ wrote:
Santa paid a late visit and I ended up holding some cash that I want to apply to getting a plunge saw to cut sheet goods. None of my current tools work well enough, though to be honest, they work ok. I just want something that I don't have to hassle with to get a clean and accurate cut. I'm currently torn between the two Festool models. Of the two, I'm thinking EQ 75, but is it worth the extra dough ($175)? I haven't worked out the others in the equation (DeWalt, Makita) but understand they only offer one model and they are close to the Festool EQ 55. Does anyone have experience in making this decision and what did you decide? Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks, MJ I went through this almost 3 years go. Festool has been making the track saw for a very long time, while brands are doing the "me too" dance. I pondered the 55 or the 75. Food for thought. The 55 comes with a 55" track. Justt long enough to make a close to 90 degree cut on a standard sheet of plywood, no way for a 60" wide piece of Baltic birch. The 75 comes with a 75" track. These saws cut well enough to make finish cuts and I knew that I would be breaking down sheets of plywood with mine and I do. So eventually I was going to buy another add on track to cut 96". While 55" sounds like it is long enough to cross cut 48", you have to place it just right to do so. There needs to be over hang the length of the saw base at the beginning of the cut and about half the base for the end of the cut. So where am I going with this? If you think you will ever need the capacity to rip a standard sheet of plywood I advise to go with the 75. It comes with the 75" track which I always use over the 55" track for cross cutting standard and 60" Baltic birch and you will only need to add the shorter 55" track. The shorter 55" track is significantly less expensive than the 75" track. I don't recall the exact prices but considering both the 55 and 75 saw and you buy the extra track to get the 130" capacity the savings of getting the 55 saw over the 75 saw is about $20. Check the prices to be sure. Also you will need the 2 bars to attach the tracks to each other. |
Plunge saw choices
On Tue, 15 Jan 2013 13:35:53 -0800 (PST), MJ
wrote: Santa paid a late visit and I ended up holding some cash that I want to apply to getting a plunge saw to cut sheet goods. None of my current tools work well enough, though to be honest, they work ok. I just want something that I don't have to hassle with to get a clean and accurate cut. I'm amazed at how cleanly plunge saws work for that. Outstanding. I'm currently torn between the two Festool models. Of the two, I'm thinking EQ 75, but is it worth the extra dough ($175)? I haven't worked out the others in the equation (DeWalt, Makita) but understand they only offer one model and they are close to the Festool EQ 55. Does anyone have experience in making this decision and what did you decide? Any guidance would be helpful. I'm an FF (frugal duck) and went with the Makita SP6001K and adore it. It will cut as deep as a tubafore with ease, but maybe not quite at a full 45 degrees. I doubt I'll use it for that, anyway, though. It comes in its own systainer (a Festool word) but is less expensive. With the money saved, you could purchase another length of guide, retaining bars, and another blade or three. I have two 55" guides for a total of 110". My li'l ShopVac with a cleanstream filter works well for dust control. -- Believe nothing. No matter where you read it, Or who said it, Even if I have said it, Unless it agrees with your own reason And your own common sense. -- Buddha |
Plunge saw choices
On Tue, 15 Jan 2013 19:30:23 -0600, Leon wrote:
So where am I going with this? If you think you will ever need the capacity to rip a standard sheet of plywood I advise to go with the 75. It comes with the 75" track which I always use over the 55" track for cross cutting standard and 60" Baltic birch and you will only need to add the shorter 55" track. With the caveat that there's number of accessory track sizes one can buy to fit most any frequently used lengths. And in addition to those accessories tracks, you can cut a longer track (carefully) to any length you want to fit specific purposes. |
Plunge saw choices
Dave wrote:
On Tue, 15 Jan 2013 19:30:23 -0600, Leon wrote: So where am I going with this? If you think you will ever need the capacity to rip a standard sheet of plywood I advise to go with the 75. It comes with the 75" track which I always use over the 55" track for cross cutting standard and 60" Baltic birch and you will only need to add the shorter 55" track. With the caveat that there's number of accessory track sizes one can buy to fit most any frequently used lengths. And in addition to those accessories tracks, you can cut a longer track (carefully) to any length you want to fit specific purposes. Karl and I found a tool that holds the tracks true while you tighten the set screws on the rods. Not a Festool item but quick, simple, foolproof, and expensive. ;-0. IIRC $100. |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/16/2013 8:03 AM, Leon wrote:
quick, simple, foolproof, and expensive. Don't look now, Bubba ... but you just described Festool to a "T". :) -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
Plunge saw choices
Santa paid a late visit and I ended up holding some cash that
I want to apply to getting a plunge saw to cut sheet goods. None of my current tools work well enough, though to be honest, they work ok. I just want something that I don't have to hassle with to get a clean and accurate cut. I'm currently torn between the two Festool models. Of the two, I'm thinking EQ 75, but is it worth the extra dough ($175)? I haven't worked out the others in the equation (DeWalt, Makita) but understand they only offer one model and they are close to the Festool EQ 55. Does anyone have experience in making this decision and what did you decide? Any guidance would be helpful. For many years, I used a standard circular saw with a straight edge (saw board) to cut down plywood sheets. I got straight cuts, but the edges of the cuts were terrible with lots of chipout. I tried different blades, tape, and other methods but always had the chipout. Occasionally I would even drift away from the straight edge messing up my cut. I had a hard time believing a track saw would cut any differently, but I sprung for a Makita SP6000K track saw anyway. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the cuts. They're as clean as the cuts I get from my tablesaw. The track ensures they are dead accurate, and hooking up my shop vac virtually eliminates the sawdust that used to fly everywhere during a cut. It's also much quieter than my old saw with a nice soft start feature. The track saw is a fantastic addition to my shop. I only wish I had taken the leap earlier. I think Wood Whisperer did a video podcast comparing track saws a few years ago? Anthony Watson Mountain Software www.mountain-software.com/about.htm |
Plunge saw choices
Swingman wrote:
On 1/16/2013 8:03 AM, Leon wrote: quick, simple, foolproof, and expensive. Don't look now, Bubba ... but you just described Festool to a "T". :) The discussion being on "tools that work well", I have a related question. In doing pocket-joinery ala Kreg, what helps insures that "nothing slips" when finally attaching the 2 pieces of wood with a screw (or screws). I don't believe that the second piece of wood is normally drilled, right? Based upon my experience, screwing two pieces of wood together does not yield precise results without more technique (clamps, pre-drill, etc.). Is there something remarkable about their screws? Bill |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/16/2013 9:14 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote: On 1/16/2013 8:03 AM, Leon wrote: quick, simple, foolproof, and expensive. Don't look now, Bubba ... but you just described Festool to a "T". :) The discussion being on "tools that work well", I have a related question. In doing pocket-joinery ala Kreg, what helps insures that "nothing slips" when finally attaching the 2 pieces of wood with a screw (or screws). I don't believe that the second piece of wood is normally drilled, right? clamps or holddowns. correct. |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/16/2013 10:14 AM, Bill wrote:
The discussion being on "tools that work well", I have a related question. In doing pocket-joinery ala Kreg, what helps insures that "nothing slips" when finally attaching the 2 pieces of wood with a screw (or screws). I don't believe that the second piece of wood is normally drilled, right? Based upon my experience, screwing two pieces of wood together does not yield precise results without more technique (clamps, pre-drill, etc.). Is there something remarkable about their screws? You reading my mail?? ;) Less than fifteen minutes ago I walked out of the shop after making four seat frames for my bar stool project this morning, using pocket hole joinery: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...88508989074738 I use both these types of clamps, although the Rockler clamp on the right will do a pretty good job by itself: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30675 I have two of them and use them over most other methods these days. I also use this when doing a bunch of face frames for a large cabinet job, it is inset in a piece of large plywood base: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...9&site=ROCKLER Lots of different ways, but the first Rockler jig above may be all you ever need. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
Plunge saw choices
Swingman wrote:
Lots of different ways, but the first Rockler jig above may be all you ever need. When they are demonstrating the Kreg Pocket-hole Jigs, the clamps are never mentioned! ; ) Thank you for the lesson! BTW, Your 4 chairs look lovely, so far! Bill |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/16/2013 11:52 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/16/2013 10:14 AM, Bill wrote: The discussion being on "tools that work well", I have a related question. In doing pocket-joinery ala Kreg, what helps insures that "nothing slips" when finally attaching the 2 pieces of wood with a screw (or screws). I don't believe that the second piece of wood is normally drilled, right? Based upon my experience, screwing two pieces of wood together does not yield precise results without more technique (clamps, pre-drill, etc.). Is there something remarkable about their screws? You reading my mail?? ;) Less than fifteen minutes ago I walked out of the shop after making four seat frames for my bar stool project this morning, using pocket hole joinery: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...88508989074738 I use both these types of clamps, although the Rockler clamp on the right will do a pretty good job by itself: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30675 I have two of them and use them over most other methods these days. I also use this when doing a bunch of face frames for a large cabinet job, it is inset in a piece of large plywood base: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...9&site=ROCKLER Lots of different ways, but the first Rockler jig above may be all you ever need. Swingman, based on your recommendation I bought one of these. clamps. I notice yours does not have the screw backed out at the end, mine required backing the screw all the way out otherwise it rises off the workpiece defeating the point of the clamp. I tried all different lengths of pocket depth. Am I the only one having this problem? Also adjusting that screw required an unbelievable amount of torque to break the screw, it was so tight. Interesting chamfer on your seats. -- Jeff |
Plunge saw choices
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Plunge saw choices
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 08:03:45 -0600, Leon wrote:
Karl and I found a tool that holds the tracks true while you tighten the set screws on the rods. Not a Festool item but quick, simple, foolproof, and expensive. ;-0. IIRC $100. Wouldn't that be one or two simple straight edges, perhaps with a couple of loosely tightened bar clamps to hold it in place? I bought one of these a few years ago which would serve that purpose. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,240,45313 |
Plunge saw choices
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 10:52:13 -0600, Swingman wrote:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...88508989074738 I purchased a right angle clamp for my pocket screw constructions. It adds an alternate dimension of clamping when using the Kreg jig. http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=61019 http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42311,46275 |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/16/2013 11:02 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/16/2013 11:52 AM, Swingman wrote: Less than fifteen minutes ago I walked out of the shop after making four seat frames for my bar stool project this morning, using pocket hole joinery: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...88508989074738 I use both these types of clamps, although the Rockler clamp on the right will do a pretty good job by itself: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30675 Swingman, based on your recommendation I bought one of these. clamps. I notice yours does not have the screw backed out at the end, mine required backing the screw all the way out otherwise it rises off the workpiece defeating the point of the clamp. I tried all different lengths of pocket depth. Am I the only one having this problem? Also adjusting that screw required an unbelievable amount of torque to break the screw, it was so tight. I have never had that problem, so I don't know what to tell you. My initial guess would be the depth of cut (drill) and the depth stop not set correctly, but that is just a guess, with no basis in experience whatsoever. Interesting chamfer on your seats. I have always done that to my seat web frames made for upholstery, and the upholstery guys seem to love it ... I was under the impression it was something that everyone did. It does make for a more comfortable to sit in seat, and a better fitting upholstery job. When I delivered the seat frames to the upholstery shop yesterday, the old guy called his workers to look at the frames, and the bar stool I brought along so he could see what I wanted ... you would have thought I was from outerspace the way they gathered around and ohhh'ed and ahhh'ed .... "You mean you really made this chair, really???". We tend to forget just how rare handmade custom furniture/woodwork is these days. :) -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/13 1:09 AM, Dave wrote:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42311,46275 Tangent... Those regular Kreg vice grip jig clamps are way too expensive. These deep throat locking pliers from Harbor Freight work great with Kreg pocket hole jigs. I put a large fender washer in my jig, where the clamp grips. They snap right into the recess and stay put. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Plunge saw choices
On Wednesday, January 16, 2013 8:14:11 AM UTC-8, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote: On 1/16/2013 8:03 AM, Leon wrote: quick, simple, foolproof, and expensive. Don't look now, Bubba ... but you just described Festool to a "T". :) The discussion being on "tools that work well", I have a related question. In doing pocket-joinery ala Kreg, what helps insures that "nothing slips" when finally attaching the 2 pieces of wood with a screw (or screws). I don't believe that the second piece of wood is normally drilled, right? Based upon my experience, screwing two pieces of wood together does not yield precise results without more technique (clamps, pre-drill, etc.). Is there something remarkable about their screws? Bill I use an F clamp, a deep bar clamp. Kreg maks a vice grips type thing and some shops use those band saw table type hold downs and make a little channel in their work benc to accomodate. |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 10:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/17/13 1:09 AM, Dave wrote: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42311,46275 Tangent... Those regular Kreg vice grip jig clamps are way too expensive. These deep throat locking pliers from Harbor Freight work great with Kreg pocket hole jigs. I put a large fender washer in my jig, where the clamp grips. They snap right into the recess and stay put. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html I have half a dozen of those and use them for a lot of other clamping uses besides pocket holes. I've always been partial to the "vise-grip" type mechanism for quick change clamping ... in my childhood I somehow knew a few folks who actually used vice grips when their gear shift broke on the steering columns of their trucks ... kinda thought they were standard issue there for a while. :) -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
Plunge saw choices
"Swingman" wrote When I delivered the seat frames to the upholstery shop yesterday, the old guy called his workers to look at the frames, and the bar stool I brought along so he could see what I wanted ... you would have thought I was from outerspace the way they gathered around and ohhh'ed and ahhh'ed ... "You mean you really made this chair, really???". Thought you were from outer space, eh? That would explain some things! I know what you mean about making something that other people/tradesman don't usually experience. I have had similar experiences. Some creative design, intelligence and execution is definitely in short supply in this "modern" world. Not that many craftsman around any more. |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 10:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 10:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 1/17/13 1:09 AM, Dave wrote: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42311,46275 Tangent... Those regular Kreg vice grip jig clamps are way too expensive. These deep throat locking pliers from Harbor Freight work great with Kreg pocket hole jigs. I put a large fender washer in my jig, where the clamp grips. They snap right into the recess and stay put. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html I have half a dozen of those and use them for a lot of other clamping uses besides pocket holes. I've always been partial to the "vise-grip" type mechanism for quick change clamping ... in my childhood I somehow knew a few folks who actually used vice grips when their gear shift broke on the steering columns of their trucks ... kinda thought they were standard issue there for a while. :) I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html |
Plunge saw choices
Leon wrote:
I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. -- -Mike- |
Plunge saw choices
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
: Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. |
Plunge saw choices
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. Glue on some bigger pads, perhaps? -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 3:50 PM, Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. Glue on some bigger pads, perhaps? Yeah that is what I am thinking, perhaps fender washers and some epoxy. At any rate I think I am going to have to find the old vendor that I originally bought them from or buy them and make the modification my self. I clamp my work down when sanding and these work the best for me as they do not have to be adjusted. Should have bought 2 at the show a couple of years ago. Apparently The Woodworking Show is no longer coming to Houston. Hopefully someone else will fill the void. The Wood Working shows did a **** poor job. |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 3:50 PM, Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. Glue on some bigger pads, perhaps? Ok! I found the vendor. Looks like an additional $10 for the privileged of having the bigger disk added. http://www.cabinet-hardware-solutions.com/Clamps.html |
Plunge saw choices
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: On 1/17/2013 3:50 PM, Han wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. Glue on some bigger pads, perhaps? Ok! I found the vendor. Looks like an additional $10 for the privileged of having the bigger disk added. http://www.cabinet-hardware-solutions.com/Clamps.html I'll see what I'll do after the pair I ordered get here. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 4:30 PM, Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 1/17/2013 3:50 PM, Han wrote: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in : On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. Glue on some bigger pads, perhaps? Ok! I found the vendor. Looks like an additional $10 for the privileged of having the bigger disk added. http://www.cabinet-hardware-solutions.com/Clamps.html I'll see what I'll do after the pair I ordered get here. To tell you the truth, these things are a lot like pocket hole screws. They work well for a lot of outher uses. I have never used mine for clamping during a pocket hole procedure. You may be happy with the standard issue. I'll probably get a pair from Amazon too. |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/13 3:44 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/17/2013 3:07 PM, Han wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in : Leon wrote: I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I like those! If I didn't have an overflowing drawer full of various sizes of the more traditional vise grip style, I'd be buying into that as well. May just buy a couple or a few pair anyway. 10" with swivel pads are $17.50 ea on Amazon, qualify for prime shipping. BUT the ones at Amazon do not have the 2" disk one then end like the Kreg brand. They only have the pair with the 1" swivel disks. I am currently in contact with the manufacturer to see of they can be had with the larger disk.. That said, there are ways around that. Forget about the disk being on the clamp. Put a washer on the Kreg jig and then you're not locked into one clamp. http://mikedrums.com/KregJig.jpg I guess the clamp won't "attach" to the jig like the Kregs, but I can't say I've ever missed that. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Plunge saw choices
-MIKE- wrote:
Forget about the disk being on the clamp. Put a washer on the Kreg jig and then you're not locked into one clamp. http://mikedrums.com/KregJig.jpg I guess the clamp won't "attach" to the jig like the Kregs, but I can't say I've ever missed that. Is that the Kreg Jig Jr, Mike? I'm curious - which Kreg does everyone here have? -- -Mike- |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 10:55 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/16/2013 11:02 PM, woodchucker wrote: On 1/16/2013 11:52 AM, Swingman wrote: Less than fifteen minutes ago I walked out of the shop after making four seat frames for my bar stool project this morning, using pocket hole joinery: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...88508989074738 I use both these types of clamps, although the Rockler clamp on the right will do a pretty good job by itself: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30675 Swingman, based on your recommendation I bought one of these. clamps. I notice yours does not have the screw backed out at the end, mine required backing the screw all the way out otherwise it rises off the workpiece defeating the point of the clamp. I tried all different lengths of pocket depth. Am I the only one having this problem? Also adjusting that screw required an unbelievable amount of torque to break the screw, it was so tight. I have never had that problem, so I don't know what to tell you. My initial guess would be the depth of cut (drill) and the depth stop not set correctly, but that is just a guess, with no basis in experience whatsoever. Interesting chamfer on your seats. I have always done that to my seat web frames made for upholstery, and the upholstery guys seem to love it ... I was under the impression it was something that everyone did. It does make for a more comfortable to sit in seat, and a better fitting upholstery job. When I delivered the seat frames to the upholstery shop yesterday, the old guy called his workers to look at the frames, and the bar stool I brought along so he could see what I wanted ... you would have thought I was from outerspace the way they gathered around and ohhh'ed and ahhh'ed ... "You mean you really made this chair, really???". We tend to forget just how rare handmade custom furniture/woodwork is these days. :) No as far as depth, I have tried much deeper and much shallower, same results. It appears that the plastic tube is too flexible when screwed all the way in, when it's screwed out it appears to have some side support. I have tried deep holes using thicker pieces so I could move away from the edge more, and it had no effect. So my guess is I got the bad one. -- Jeff |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 2:02 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/17/2013 10:25 AM, Swingman wrote: On 1/17/2013 10:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 1/17/13 1:09 AM, Dave wrote: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42311,46275 Tangent... Those regular Kreg vice grip jig clamps are way too expensive. These deep throat locking pliers from Harbor Freight work great with Kreg pocket hole jigs. I put a large fender washer in my jig, where the clamp grips. They snap right into the recess and stay put. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html I have half a dozen of those and use them for a lot of other clamping uses besides pocket holes. I've always been partial to the "vise-grip" type mechanism for quick change clamping ... in my childhood I somehow knew a few folks who actually used vice grips when their gear shift broke on the steering columns of their trucks ... kinda thought they were standard issue there for a while. :) I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html Those are real nice, Same mechanism (close) the the Bessey Holddown... which came first? -- Jeff |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/13 5:48 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote: Forget about the disk being on the clamp. Put a washer on the Kreg jig and then you're not locked into one clamp. http://mikedrums.com/KregJig.jpg I guess the clamp won't "attach" to the jig like the Kregs, but I can't say I've ever missed that. Is that the Kreg Jig Jr, Mike? I'm curious - which Kreg does everyone here have? It just has "R3" on it. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Plunge saw choices
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 13:02:23 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html I agree, the self adjusting mechanisms make many clamps much easier to use. I particularly like the new Bessey self adjusting toggle clamps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmaS2rRDd48 |
Plunge saw choices
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 18:48:00 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
I'm curious - which Kreg does everyone here have? I've got the K3 system as well as the Kreg table saw mitre gauge. |
Plunge saw choices
In article , Mike Marlow
wrote: I'm curious - which Kreg does everyone here have? I have the Master System and two minis. -- Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to read. - Groucho Marx |
Plunge saw choices
On 1/17/2013 6:50 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/17/2013 2:02 PM, Leon wrote: On 1/17/2013 10:25 AM, Swingman wrote: On 1/17/2013 10:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 1/17/13 1:09 AM, Dave wrote: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42311,46275 Tangent... Those regular Kreg vice grip jig clamps are way too expensive. These deep throat locking pliers from Harbor Freight work great with Kreg pocket hole jigs. I put a large fender washer in my jig, where the clamp grips. They snap right into the recess and stay put. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html I have half a dozen of those and use them for a lot of other clamping uses besides pocket holes. I've always been partial to the "vise-grip" type mechanism for quick change clamping ... in my childhood I somehow knew a few folks who actually used vice grips when their gear shift broke on the steering columns of their trucks ... kinda thought they were standard issue there for a while. :) I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed and I am right handed. http://www.chhanson.com/products_ALC.html Those are real nice, Same mechanism (close) the the Bessey Holddown... which came first? Bessy came out with their hold down last year or the year before IIRC. The CH Hanson ones have been considerably longer. Mine is 3~4 years old. I seems I have seen the mechanism on other similar products before that. |
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