Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Well, I'm going to give you your own advice back.

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.



On 7/7/2012 2:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

On 7/7/2012 2:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Well, I'm going to give you your own advice back.

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.

What a ****ing dickhead remark.

Here smartass, if you can get an answer out of them today, let me know
what they say:

800-636-3138

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:38:54 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 7/7/2012 2:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Well, I'm going to give you your own advice back.

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.

What a ****ing dickhead remark.

Here smartass, if you can get an answer out of them today, let me know
what they say:

800-636-3138

Plonking is much more satisfying than replies, Swingy.
You never again have to put up with their ****.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On 7/7/2012 4:07 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:38:54 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 7/7/2012 2:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Well, I'm going to give you your own advice back.

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.

What a ****ing dickhead remark.

Here smartass, if you can get an answer out of them today, let me know
what they say:

800-636-3138

Plonking is much more satisfying than replies, Swingy.


Maybe for you but some of us, not

Well lets see you ordered it, so it can't be there for a couple of days.

You don't like your own advice.. No surprise.
You act like a freaking prima-dona ... Grow the **** up , and learn to
control your childish temper.



On 7/7/2012 3:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 7/7/2012 2:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Well, I'm going to give you your own advice back.

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.

What a ****ing dickhead remark.

Here smartass, if you can get an answer out of them today, let me know
what they say:

800-636-3138

On 7/7/2012 4:56 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Well lets see you ordered it, so it can't be there for a couple of days.

You don't like your own advice.. No surprise.
You act like a freaking prima-dona ... Grow the **** up , and learn
to control your childish temper.

Like you control your childish insistence on going against the flow and
top posting, yeah right.


On 7/7/2012 3:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 7/7/2012 2:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Well, I'm going to give you your own advice back.

Unlike yours, any advice I proffer is based on experience, and always
has a followup.

You didn't have a ****ing clue, yet you didn't let that override your
top posting, smartass mouth.

How did that call go, and just what the **** do you think the purpose of
this forum is for, eh?

800-636-3138


You nailed it, Dave ...

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:38:54 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.

What a ****ing dickhead remark.

Having a bad day? That response seems a bit overdone for what he
said :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/7/2012 6:53 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:38:54 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Contact the vendor. They must have some good info.

What a ****ing dickhead remark.

Having a bad day? That response seems a bit overdone for what he
said :-).

Only when you leave off the condescending, self-appointed arbiter,
bull**** remark that preceded the above, as you apparently _purposely_ did.

IOW, trying to stir a little **** there, eh Bubba?

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:26:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan?
If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or
maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?

....or:
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Paper.../dp/B002DOYGKG

Instead of luan, maybe a piece of glass? ;-)

" wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:26:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan?
If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or
maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?

...or:
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Paper.../dp/B002DOYGKG

Instead of luan, maybe a piece of glass? ;-)

It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not
rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in
doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link
above.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:13:40 -0500, Swingman wrote:

" wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:26:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan?
If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or
maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?

...or:
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Paper.../dp/B002DOYGKG

Instead of luan, maybe a piece of glass? ;-)

It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not
rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in
doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link
above.

Ah, I see it comes in a 3'x25' roll, 3'x6' laminated sheet, and adhesive
backed. I just saw the first item on the page.

" wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:13:40 -0500, Swingman wrote:

" wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:26:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan?
If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or
maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?

...or:
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Paper.../dp/B002DOYGKG

Instead of luan, maybe a piece of glass? ;-)

It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not
rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in
doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link
above.

Ah, I see it comes in a 3'x25' roll, 3'x6' laminated sheet, and adhesive
backed. I just saw the first item on the page.

Yep ... I'm hoping like hell it is something that can be cut to fit and
mounted, like a sheet plastic, otherwise a call to the Saturday Night
Samurai may be in order.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

On 7/7/2012 4:35 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:13:40 -0500, Swingman wrote:

" wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:26:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan?
If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or
maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?

...or:
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Paper.../dp/B002DOYGKG

Instead of luan, maybe a piece of glass? ;-)

It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not
rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in
doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link
above.

Ah, I see it comes in a 3'x25' roll, 3'x6' laminated sheet, and adhesive
backed. I just saw the first item on the page.

LOL Don't feel bad, you are not the only one ... seems to be epidemic.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:13:40 -0500, Swingman wrote:
It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not
rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in
doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link
above.

Have you actually handled any? I was always under the impression that
rice paper was extremely delicate. Of course, this type of it might be
reinforced as Leon mentioned.

On 7/8/2012 7:48 AM, Dave wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:13:40 -0500, Swingman wrote:
It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not
rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in
doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link
above.

Have you actually handled any? I was always under the impression that
rice paper was extremely delicate. Of course, this type of it might be
reinforced as Leon mentioned.


Actually, it is "reinforced" by being laminated on both sides, with pvc,
as the subject line/original post indicated from the beginning.

(seems like most did not scroll down to the actual product in question
before replying, apparently assuming everything on the linked page was
had the same properties)

Nope, never handled the stuff, again, as I indicated in the first post;
and I certainly expect it to be thin, probably very thin, but still in
"sheet" form.

Most interesting thing so far is Mike M.'s response ... if that is the
nature of the beast, even with both sides laminated, I believe I could
handle that process in the video, with some practice ... unfortunately
there won't be much material to practice with, thus my post asking if
anyone has had any experience with the stuff.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 7/7/2012 3:36 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:26:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/7/2012 1:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)



Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled
up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors
may do the trick.

As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan?
If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or
maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?

...or:
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Paper.../dp/B002DOYGKG

Instead of luan, maybe a piece of glass? ;-)


Yeah, whatever it is applied has to be opaque to do what the client
wants. I think the adhesive backed paper is what is made for mounting on
glass, not the laminated product which is what I ordered based on what
the client wanted.

Considering the bubbling/air pocket problems I've had with putting a
protective, adhesive backed screen on a smartphone, I hope like hell
that is NOT the only option!

But, I'll know when it gets here ... ITMT, it's been an illustrative
post, on many fronts, to say the least.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Sun, 08 Jul 2012 10:42:17 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Yeah, whatever it is applied has to be opaque to do what the client
wants. I think the adhesive backed paper is what is made for mounting on
glass, not the laminated product which is what I ordered based on what
the client wanted.

Well, if it is laminated and comes in sheet form, you might want to
consider a plastic cutting blade which if I remember correctly would
have a negative hook angle.

Perhaps a solid surface/laminate blade for Leon's TS55 or TS75 might
do the trick.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/p...de-496309.html

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Cool. Not cheap, is it? I've been eyeing some of the new and
improved shoji papers for some upcoming CNC project ideas.


Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

How about utility scissors, or the utility knife w/ a new blade? I
guess it depends on how thick, brittle, and tough it is.

If too thick, why didn't you immediately think of your Festool saur?
I need to do a slight cutdown on an opaque acrylic insert panel for a
sunlight in a 30 y/o mobile if I get the carpeting job for its stairs
and porch, and I immediately thought of the Makita plunge saur.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Cool. Not cheap, is it? I've been eyeing some of the new and
improved shoji papers for some upcoming CNC project ideas.

I'm thinking that $33/door is reasonable. Don't think I can get a boutique
glass for that price?

If too thick, why didn't you immediately think of your Festool saur?
I need to do a slight cutdown on an opaque acrylic insert panel for a
sunlight in a 30 y/o mobile if I get the carpeting job for its stairs
and porch, and I immediately thought of the Makita plunge saur.

There's always that. I was hoping it might cut like polycarbonate, which Is
quicker to do on the table saw.

Basically I don't have a clue, and neither did the salesperson I talked to
the other day. Someone in the know was supposed to return my call
yesterday, but no joy there yet.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:24:57 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Cool. Not cheap, is it? I've been eyeing some of the new and
improved shoji papers for some upcoming CNC project ideas.

I'm thinking that $33/door is reasonable.

I'm thinking "paper", so $71 for a 3x6' piece seems steep to me.


Don't think I can get a boutique glass for that price?

Prolly not.


If too thick, why didn't you immediately think of your Festool saur?
I need to do a slight cutdown on an opaque acrylic insert panel for a
sunlight in a 30 y/o mobile if I get the carpeting job for its stairs
and porch, and I immediately thought of the Makita plunge saur.

There's always that. I was hoping it might cut like polycarbonate, which Is
quicker to do on the table saw.

Judging by the application, I'd think it was fairly thin. "Extra
Strength", to a marketer, might mean an extra 0.002" of resin on each
side of a 0.003" paper.


Basically I don't have a clue, and neither did the salesperson I talked to
the other day. Someone in the know was supposed to return my call
yesterday, but no joy there yet.

Does it ship in a sheet or rolled? That might be a clue in itself.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCzKhfaZehk

Mike M

Mike M wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCzKhfaZehk

Mike M

Interesting .... Thanks!
--
www.ewoodshop.com

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:34:37 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Mike M wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCzKhfaZehk

Mike M

Interesting .... Thanks!

Realized after posting you ordered a laminated version but hopefully
you can find more info there.

Mike M

On 7/7/2012 6:41 PM, Mike M wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:34:37 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Mike M wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCzKhfaZehk

Mike M

Interesting .... Thanks!

Realized after posting you ordered a laminated version but hopefully
you can find more info there.

LOL ... one of the few who did. I appreciate your post. Until I saw the
video I didn't have a clue how any of this Japanese paper was mounted.

Although this might not fall in the same category as in the video, I
won't know until I actually lay hands on it, so any information adds to
my options.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:17:50 -0700, Mike M
wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:27:14 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on
the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea
of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a
door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

(Rob, it's your damned fault!)

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCzKhfaZehk

Dayum, when did YouTube start stuffing ads into all their videos?
Where the fark is the "Allow and block ads" tab where I'm supposed to
be able to turn some ads off? Damn you, Google!

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength"
on the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an
idea of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of
glass in a door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

I once made a tatami screen with rice paper (non-laminated). Just cut with
scissors or sharp knife and glued to frame. The cutter needs to be sharp
and the edge of paper clamped under something as the paper tends to tear.

Never seen what you have but I think sawing might be too aggressive. How
thick/rigid is it? Tried a knife & straight edge? As far as mounting goes
I'd think putting it in a rabbet and backing up the rabbet with a thin
molding would work if it is reasonably rigid; if not, same thing but staple
in.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

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Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
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dadiOH wrote:

I once made a tatami screen with rice paper (non-laminated).

Shoji, not tatami.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 7/8/2012 7:38 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Never seen what you have but I think sawing might be too aggressive.

Exactly what I was hoping someone who may have had some experience with
the laminated product could provide.

How thick/rigid is it? Tried a knife & straight edge?

Don't have it yet. Asked the same question of the salesperson at their
800 number last week; also how to cut, and suggested method of fastening
(silicon, glue, acrylyic adhesive tape, etc), all the usual mounting
methods ... they did not have a clue but "will have someone call me back".

As far as mounting goes
I'd think putting it in a rabbet and backing up the rabbet with a thin
molding would work if it is reasonably rigid; if not, same thing but staple
in.

The doors are already made, with a 1/4" rabbet to mount either glass or
some other sheet material (which this supposedly is), complete with
muntin grille's:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...40773600367218

So, even if I have to cut a non laminated paper, as you mentioned in
your previous post, technique, or lack thereof, will be the deciding
factor ... just trying to get a jump on the process, so queried here also.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Swingman wrote:
On 7/8/2012 7:38 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Never seen what you have but I think sawing might be too aggressive.

Exactly what I was hoping someone who may have had some experience
with the laminated product could provide.

How thick/rigid is it? Tried a knife & straight edge?

Don't have it yet. Asked the same question of the salesperson at their
800 number last week; also how to cut, and suggested method of
fastening (silicon, glue, acrylyic adhesive tape, etc), all the usual
mounting methods ... they did not have a clue but "will have someone
call me back".
As far as mounting goes
I'd think putting it in a rabbet and backing up the rabbet with a
thin molding would work if it is reasonably rigid; if not, same
thing but staple in.

The doors are already made, with a 1/4" rabbet to mount either glass
or some other sheet material (which this supposedly is), complete with
muntin grille's:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...40773600367218

So, even if I have to cut a non laminated paper, as you mentioned in
your previous post, technique, or lack thereof, will be the deciding
factor ... just trying to get a jump on the process, so queried here
also.

Even unlaminated rice paper should be good to go with that without any sort
of backing (other than the grill) if glued to both. In your case, I'm
thinking spray adhesive on the rabbet, ditto on grill.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in
lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:

http://tatamiroom.com/cgi-local/cata...JI_PAPER-10#4S

She "LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength"
on the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.

Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an
idea of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of
glass in a door?

My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?

I once made a tatami screen with rice paper (non-laminated). Just cut
with scissors or sharp knife and glued to frame. The cutter needs to be
sharp and the edge of paper clamped under something as the paper tends to
tear.

Never seen what you have but I think sawing might be too aggressive. How
thick/rigid is it? Tried a knife & straight edge? As far as mounting goes
I'd think putting it in a rabbet and backing up the rabbet with a thin
molding would work if it is reasonably rigid; if not, same thing but
staple in.

Yeah, something similar to old wooden window screens, staple it to wood
frame into a rabbet and then cover the staples with a molding.