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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

I've got a 24 tooth Freud 7 1/4" blade with an 1/8" kerf that I've been
loath to replace because I cannot find another with similar
specifications... Is anyone aware of a blade of comparable or better quality
to this Freud that is available today? My DAGS and manufacturer site
searches have been fruitless but I may simply be missing the target...

My Freud is probably 25+ years old. Upon reading the "dead nuts" thread I
went to the shop and cleaned the blade to see how many carbides need to be
replaced if I get it sharpened. My best guess is 10 of the 24 would have to
be replaced due to chips... but it STILL cuts better than the various thin
kerf blades I have for the saw!

I've also got a 40 T Freud blade for that 7 1/4" saw but that is too fine
for dimension lumber. I tend to use my PC trim saw for sheet goods rather
than the bigger saw so the 40T Freud seldom gets used.

John






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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

John Grossbohlin wrote:
I've got a 24 tooth Freud 7 1/4" blade with an 1/8" kerf that I've
been loath to replace because I cannot find another with similar
specifications... Is anyone aware of a blade of comparable or better
quality to this Freud that is available today? My DAGS and
manufacturer site searches have been fruitless but I may simply be
missing the target...


You didn't say what grind.

Grizzly has one close...G5459 Steelex 7-1/4" x 5/8" 24t ATB .120 Ripping
Blade
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/165041



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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades


"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
John Grossbohlin wrote:
I've got a 24 tooth Freud 7 1/4" blade with an 1/8" kerf that I've
been loath to replace because I cannot find another with similar
specifications... Is anyone aware of a blade of comparable or better
quality to this Freud that is available today? My DAGS and
manufacturer site searches have been fruitless but I may simply be
missing the target...


You didn't say what grind.

Grizzly has one close...G5459 Steelex 7-1/4" x 5/8" 24t ATB .120 Ripping
Blade
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/165041


It's a general purpose framing blade.... dimension lumber and plywood/OSD.
The size and tooth count and my mention of dimension lumber and sheet goods
in the original message sort of positions it as such... ATB would be the
typical grind for such use. I also use the saw for cross-cutting rough cut
hardwood and softwood boards before rough dimensioning them on the bandsaw.

I paid about $35 for the Freud blade 25+ years ago. I'm having a difficult
time imaging that a $7 Chinese blade today would be comparable to the
Freud... plate thickness and trueness and carbide size and quality surely
vary.

Maybe I'll throw one on the next Grizzly order--added it to my Save for
Later list. I'm sure there will be another order soon as I'm in stock-up
mode for shaper items. This as I picked up a 3 HP Grizzly shaper recently to
replace my 1.5 HP closed stand Jet shaper.

John

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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

On 6/24/12 11:49 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
John Grossbohlin wrote:
I've got a 24 tooth Freud 7 1/4" blade with an 1/8" kerf that I've
been loath to replace because I cannot find another with similar
specifications... Is anyone aware of a blade of comparable or better
quality to this Freud that is available today? My DAGS and
manufacturer site searches have been fruitless but I may simply be
missing the target...


You didn't say what grind.

Grizzly has one close...G5459 Steelex 7-1/4" x 5/8" 24t ATB .120
Ripping Blade
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/165041


It's a general purpose framing blade.... dimension lumber and
plywood/OSD. The size and tooth count and my mention of dimension lumber
and sheet goods in the original message sort of positions it as such...
ATB would be the typical grind for such use. I also use the saw for
cross-cutting rough cut hardwood and softwood boards before rough
dimensioning them on the bandsaw.

I paid about $35 for the Freud blade 25+ years ago. I'm having a
difficult time imaging that a $7 Chinese blade today would be comparable
to the Freud... plate thickness and trueness and carbide size and
quality surely vary.

Maybe I'll throw one on the next Grizzly order--added it to my Save for
Later list. I'm sure there will be another order soon as I'm in stock-up
mode for shaper items. This as I picked up a 3 HP Grizzly shaper
recently to replace my 1.5 HP closed stand Jet shaper.

John


http://www.grizzly.com/products/H9352
You'd have to call them to find out for sure, but I suspect this blade
if pretty thick.


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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

Did you check Forrest? They do sell 7 1/4 blades.

http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

It ain't cheap, but I'd imagine it will last a LONG time.

MJ


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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades


"MJ" wrote in message
...
Did you check Forrest? They do sell 7 1/4 blades.

http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

It ain't cheap, but I'd imagine it will last a LONG time.


I did check them already... 60 Tooth in either the WWI or the melamine
blades and 30 T in the WWII. They are 3/32" "thin kerf" blades.... wish they
were 1/8"!

I've got Forrest blades on my CMS and cabinet saw... they work. ;~) In the
scheme of things the 7.25" WWII at about $70 probably costs less in
constant dollars than I paid for the Freud blade 25+ years ago (around $35
as I recall) and if it lasts me 25 years it's a bargain.

I put on different blades if I know I'm getting into dirty or used lumber. I
learned my lesson years ago when I picked up a scrap to cut some blocking
and proceeded to saw through 6 10d nails... took the carbides right off the
blade!

I've not ruled the Forrest blade out... though I wish it were 1/8". They do
seem over the top for a circular saw though don't they? ;~)

John

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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

On 6/24/2012 9:41 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"MJ" wrote in message
...
Did you check Forrest? They do sell 7 1/4 blades.

http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

It ain't cheap, but I'd imagine it will last a LONG time.


I did check them already... 60 Tooth in either the WWI or the melamine blades
and 30 T in the WWII. They are 3/32" "thin kerf" blades.... wish they were 1/8"!

I've got Forrest blades on my CMS and cabinet saw... they work. ;~) In the
scheme of things the 7.25" WWII at about $70 probably costs less in constant
dollars than I paid for the Freud blade 25+ years ago (around $35 as I recall)
and if it lasts me 25 years it's a bargain.

I put on different blades if I know I'm getting into dirty or used lumber. I
learned my lesson years ago when I picked up a scrap to cut some blocking and
proceeded to saw through 6 10d nails... took the carbides right off the blade!

I've not ruled the Forrest blade out... though I wish it were 1/8". They do
seem over the top for a circular saw though don't they? ;~)

John


I don't think I've ever seen a 7-1/4" blade with a 1/8" kerf. I have an old
top dog Freud that I use on my Skill 77 with a 3/32" kerf and it's as thick as
I've ever seen in that size.

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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades


"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
On 6/24/2012 9:41 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"MJ" wrote in message
...
Did you check Forrest? They do sell 7 1/4 blades.

http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

It ain't cheap, but I'd imagine it will last a LONG time.


I did check them already... 60 Tooth in either the WWI or the melamine
blades
and 30 T in the WWII. They are 3/32" "thin kerf" blades.... wish they
were 1/8"!

I've got Forrest blades on my CMS and cabinet saw... they work. ;~) In
the
scheme of things the 7.25" WWII at about $70 probably costs less in
constant
dollars than I paid for the Freud blade 25+ years ago (around $35 as I
recall)
and if it lasts me 25 years it's a bargain.

I put on different blades if I know I'm getting into dirty or used
lumber. I
learned my lesson years ago when I picked up a scrap to cut some blocking
and
proceeded to saw through 6 10d nails... took the carbides right off the
blade!

I've not ruled the Forrest blade out... though I wish it were 1/8". They
do
seem over the top for a circular saw though don't they? ;~)

John


I don't think I've ever seen a 7-1/4" blade with a 1/8" kerf. I have an
old top dog Freud that I use on my Skill 77 with a 3/32" kerf and it's as
thick as I've ever seen in that size.


My old Freud is 1/8".... haven't seen another like it. With a good PC saw
the wide kerf has never been a problem and has probably helped more than not
due to the clearance. It works great in things like wet PT and wood that
"moves" as it has a lot of clearance, i.e., the sides of the carbide stick
out beyond the plate significantly. The plate is stiff too...

John



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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

You know John, you could always get an outside blade of a 6" dado and
have them regrind it for you. It would be 1/8 although the number of
teeth might be off.

On 6/25/2012 5:34 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
On 6/24/2012 9:41 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"MJ" wrote in message
...

Did you check Forrest? They do sell 7 1/4 blades.

http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

It ain't cheap, but I'd imagine it will last a LONG time.

I did check them already... 60 Tooth in either the WWI or the
melamine blades
and 30 T in the WWII. They are 3/32" "thin kerf" blades.... wish they
were 1/8"!

I've got Forrest blades on my CMS and cabinet saw... they work. ;~)
In the
scheme of things the 7.25" WWII at about $70 probably costs less in
constant
dollars than I paid for the Freud blade 25+ years ago (around $35 as
I recall)
and if it lasts me 25 years it's a bargain.

I put on different blades if I know I'm getting into dirty or used
lumber. I
learned my lesson years ago when I picked up a scrap to cut some
blocking and
proceeded to saw through 6 10d nails... took the carbides right off
the blade!

I've not ruled the Forrest blade out... though I wish it were 1/8".
They do
seem over the top for a circular saw though don't they? ;~)

John


I don't think I've ever seen a 7-1/4" blade with a 1/8" kerf. I have
an old top dog Freud that I use on my Skill 77 with a 3/32" kerf and
it's as thick as I've ever seen in that size.


My old Freud is 1/8".... haven't seen another like it. With a good PC
saw the wide kerf has never been a problem and has probably helped more
than not due to the clearance. It works great in things like wet PT and
wood that "moves" as it has a lot of clearance, i.e., the sides of the
carbide stick out beyond the plate significantly. The plate is stiff too...

John




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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

On 6/25/2012 4:34 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
On 6/24/2012 9:41 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"MJ" wrote in message
...
Did you check Forrest? They do sell 7 1/4 blades.

http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

It ain't cheap, but I'd imagine it will last a LONG time.

I did check them already... 60 Tooth in either the WWI or the melamine blades
and 30 T in the WWII. They are 3/32" "thin kerf" blades.... wish they were
1/8"!

I've got Forrest blades on my CMS and cabinet saw... they work. ;~) In the
scheme of things the 7.25" WWII at about $70 probably costs less in constant
dollars than I paid for the Freud blade 25+ years ago (around $35 as I recall)
and if it lasts me 25 years it's a bargain.

I put on different blades if I know I'm getting into dirty or used lumber. I
learned my lesson years ago when I picked up a scrap to cut some blocking and
proceeded to saw through 6 10d nails... took the carbides right off the blade!

I've not ruled the Forrest blade out... though I wish it were 1/8". They do
seem over the top for a circular saw though don't they? ;~)

John


I don't think I've ever seen a 7-1/4" blade with a 1/8" kerf. I have an old
top dog Freud that I use on my Skill 77 with a 3/32" kerf and it's as thick
as I've ever seen in that size.


My old Freud is 1/8".... haven't seen another like it. With a good PC saw the
wide kerf has never been a problem and has probably helped more than not due to
the clearance. It works great in things like wet PT and wood that "moves" as it
has a lot of clearance, i.e., the sides of the carbide stick out beyond the
plate significantly. The plate is stiff too...


The old Freud I have is a beautiful qualify blade, and haven't seen any other
like it either. I wonder if ours are from the same era? The blade came with
my Skil 77 when my Dad gave it to me about 12 years ago, and who knows how old
it was then. Interestingly enough, I gave it a closer look and it has the
words "thin kerf" on it, which implies that Freud must also have made a
"regular kerf" blade during that time, likely in your 1/8" width.

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Default Spin off from the "dead nuts" thread with focus on blades

On Jun 24, 10:41*pm, "John Grossbohlin"

I put on different blades if I know I'm getting into dirty or used lumber.. I
learned my lesson years ago when I picked up a scrap to cut some blocking
and proceeded to saw through 6 10d nails... took the carbides right off the
blade!


First chip that broke off took all of the other chips with it.
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