I have just about compelted my first roubo workbench. I built it out of 8/4
southern red oak and it looks fairly good, plus it weights between 320 and
350lbs (3 x 26 x 72" - the top alone weights 170lbs). I have a problem
though that I need some help with.

I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top but decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long, which gives
me a bit of a wobble.

So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I go that
route, any other ideas?

Thanks

Deb

I'm betting it's your floor and not the length of the leg. But that's a
guess.

One method would be to use a belt sander to take down the leg a little.
Or use a low angle hand plane if you have one.



On 6/21/2012 10:11 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:
2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long, which give

On 6/21/2012 9:11 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top but decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long, which gives
me a bit of a wobble.

So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I go that
route, any other ideas?

How about this?

Prowl around some appliance outlets or maybe a scrap yard and talk to
the folks there about any junker washing machines they may have
gathering rust. If you don't want to do that, check out the local
Sears, Lowes, Home Despot, whatever, look over THEIR selection of new
appliances. What you want is the screw in metal feet from said
appliances.

They are often finished off with a nice wide diameter metal foot, maybe
an inch and half or two inches in diameter with a threaded bolt that
screws into the appliance frame to level it.

If you're lucky you will get a junked set of four for free. If you're
not, you can probably get EXACTLY what you want for a price using the
parts list for that new appliance and letting your fingers do the walking.

Once you have a set, go shopping for some t-nuts. Drill an
appropriately sized hole in the center of each leg (don't you wish you'd
done this BEFORE you assembled that puppyg) set the t-nut and screw in
the leveler. You no longer have a wobble and each leg is now up off the
concrete and will not wick water into the leg.

If you can't find a leveler that is wide enough to suit your taste, just
make sure the shaft is at least 1/4", 3/8" would be better, and get
those. Then buy some of those furniture slider pads faced with teflon
or ...

"Dr. Deb" wrote:

I have just about compelted my first roubo workbench. I built it out
of 8/4
southern red oak and it looks fairly good, plus it weights between
320 and
350lbs (3 x 26 x 72" - the top alone weights 170lbs). I have a
problem
though that I need some help with.

I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top but
decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top.
The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so
I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued
and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long,
which gives
me a bit of a wobble.

So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am
seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic
to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I
go that
route, any other ideas?
---------------------------------------
The simplest approach is to use shim packs.

Use 1/8" (Door skin) and 1/4" plywood to cut 5-1/4" squares to form
packs.

Shim till level, then add 1/2" sheet PVC & flat head screws to hold
plastic in place.

Have fun.


Lew

Forgot to add.

Start with temporary shims that are 4" wide and 10" long.

Working with a pry bar and a hammer, you can insert and adjust the
shims by yourself.

Lew

-----------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
b.com...

"Dr. Deb" wrote:

I have just about compelted my first roubo workbench. I built it
out of 8/4
southern red oak and it looks fairly good, plus it weights between
320 and
350lbs (3 x 26 x 72" - the top alone weights 170lbs). I have a
problem
though that I need some help with.

I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top
but decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the
top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so
I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly
(glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long,
which gives
me a bit of a wobble.

So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am
seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic
to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I
go that
route, any other ideas?
---------------------------------------
The simplest approach is to use shim packs.

Use 1/8" (Door skin) and 1/4" plywood to cut 5-1/4" squares to form
packs.

Shim till level, then add 1/2" sheet PVC & flat head screws to hold
plastic in place.

Have fun.


Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
b.com...

---------------------------------------
The simplest approach is to use shim packs.

Use 1/8" (Door skin) and 1/4" plywood to cut 5-1/4" squares to form packs.

Shim till level, then add 1/2" sheet PVC & flat head screws to hold
plastic in place.

Why do I have visions of a work bench top 48" above the floor? ;~)

John

Dr. Deb wrote:

I have just about compelted my first roubo workbench. I built it out of
8/4 southern red oak and it looks fairly good, plus it weights between 320
and
350lbs (3 x 26 x 72" - the top alone weights 170lbs). I have a problem
though that I need some help with.

I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top but
decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long, which
gives me a bit of a wobble.

So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I go that
route, any other ideas?

Thanks

Deb

Lew, thanks, that will at least give me the thickness I need on the two
short legs, which is on the order of 3/64 or 1/16"

As for Unquestionalby Confused, your idea would work, if the bench were
about half its weight. There is no way those feet will hold up to either
the weight or the usage of the bench.

Tiredofspam, wrestling that 300-350lbs around is a bit more than this old
man can take on. It took three of us to get it up off the top and over on
the legs.

Again, lew, thanks

Deb

Dr. Deb wrote:
Lew, thanks, that will at least give me the thickness I need on the
two
short legs, which is on the order of 3/64 or 1/16"
---------------------------------------
Leveling out a 55 ft boat mold that is upside down teaches you a few
things,G

Have fun.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Leveling out a 55 ft boat mold that is upside down teaches you a few
things,G
----------------------------------
Another approach I've used to level out a loaded table uses some
clamps, a couple of 2x4's and a 1 ton bottle jack as follows:

Attach a 2x4 to the right side legs (front to back) with clamps about
12" above floor.

Repeat on left side.

Place bottle jack under 2x4 on right side and lift and shim as req'd.

Repeat as req'd till level.

Tip: A 1 ton bottle jack is low cost ($10 Max) and has lots of uses
around shop.

Have fun.

Lew

In article ,
Dr. Deb wrote:
So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am
seriously leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density
plastic to get the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor.
But before I go that route, any other ideas?

I use these on all my benches and stands.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster...#bottomsection

They work a treat.

--
Stuart Winsor

Only plain text for emails
http://www.asciiribbon.org

On Thu, 21 Jun 2012 21:11:46 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

I have just about compelted my first roubo workbench. I built it out of 8/4
southern red oak and it looks fairly good, plus it weights between 320 and
350lbs (3 x 26 x 72" - the top alone weights 170lbs). I have a problem
though that I need some help with.

I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top but decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long, which gives
me a bit of a wobble.

So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I go that
route, any other ideas?

Adjustable feet would be good, Deb. You could mortise out an area for
a 3/8" steel plate, drill/tap/mount it, then screw in rubber padded
feet. I got the 2515T22 nylon feet for my CNC router from McMasters
for $16, delivered. http://www.mcmaster.com/#adjustable-feet/=i370h9
All of 'em. Take your pick.

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill