I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined by
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.

On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.

You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
1-at-a-time:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012001.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg

In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

TIA,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

On 6/17/2012 5:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:

I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined by
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.

On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.

You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
1-at-a-time:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012001.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg

In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

TIA,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

Before I did a thing to the door I would take an awl and check all of
the wood to insure there is no rot in any parts of the door. If any rot
is found I would replace the door. I found that it was easier to
replace the door than mess with it. The door and casing all had areas
of rot. Doors with the casing are relatively cheap.

If you are an adventurous wood worker, you could try to replicate and
replace the rotted wood.

If the wood in the door is good. The easiest way to fix the door would
be to added diagonals to the door. Most big box stores have metal in
various lengths, widths, and thickness.

Based on the assumption that the door is about 32" wide, I would buy a
4' X 3/4" X 3/16 piece of steel.

I would take the door off, square it and pull it together. Once square
and pulled together I would run the 4' piece of steel from the outer
bottom corner to just below the windows. I may also do the same, but
from the inner bottom to the some where around the handle on the other
side. This would keep the door square, and keep it from pulling apart
again.

On 6/17/2012 5:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:

I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined by
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.

On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.

You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
1-at-a-time:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012001.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg

In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

TIA,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."


Remove it, lay it flat across some sawhorses, square it, and then apply
diagonal bracing on the inside of the bottom half. This will pull the
sagging corner toward the middle hinge transferring the load. Injecting
some glue (epoxy?) along the way before tightening everything up would
probably be useful too. Or you could also just disassemble the door and
re-build it after cleaning the joints but if any of the original glue is
still holding well it could be a real bear to get it apart fully. Or, you
could just buy a new one...

On Sun, 17 Jun 2012 16:58:42 -0500, Puddin' Man
wrote:


I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined by
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.

On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.

You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
1-at-a-time:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012001.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg

In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

If it's actually a mortise and tenon joint, you might salvage it with
glue and pegging. http://tinyurl.com/7k95le2

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain

It's clear by the picture that the door is coming apart. If it were me,
I would put it on a saw horse laid flat.
see if I could open the joints a little at a time.
If possible, then see if I could open them up all the way.
If possible take them apart, mix up some epoxy, put it together and
clamp for 24 hours ... Then rehang and plane anything true.

Using a wood glue on an older door like that would not necessarily take.
The wood may be oxidized, the glue might not be compatible... But epoxy
would work, and will also take up any gap that might have been created
by bending fibers.

This tongue and groove is really a coped rail and stile.. So the epoxy
will do the trick...if you can open it enough to inject the glue in,
that would suffice. Many wood working stores sell glue syringes. So you
can inject it in if you open the joint enough... you just have to clamp
it back together



On 6/17/2012 5:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:

I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined by
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.

On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.

You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
1-at-a-time:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012001.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg

In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

TIA,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

The door's joints are loose as a goose. Take the door off the hinges
and pull the door completely apart. It will no doubt come apart
easily, more easily than you think.

There is likely 2 dowels holding each of the joints together. Remove
those dowels, clean them and reuse them, unless they are rotten,
broken or something else wrong with them. Replace any dowels with new
ones and/or larger dowels, if need be. For larger dowels, drill their
mating holes larger.

Clean up all the mating glue edges and reglue the door together using
a water proof glue (Titebond III water proof glue). Don't apply glue
to the panels... allow them to float freely in the framing.

To completely disassemble, clean up the edges and reglue the door will
be a lot easier than you think.... and prevent later headaches with
it.

Those glass panes should be easy to remove, also. If they have putty
on both sides, you might want to replace the putty with wood molding
with clear silicone caulking to seat the panes. If you replace the
putty, seal the inner raw edges of the framing, either with primer/
paint/clearcoat, before reinstalling the panes.

Sonny

On Sun, 17 Jun 2012 20:23:36 -0400, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com
wrote:

It's clear by the picture that the door is coming apart. If it were me,
I would put it on a saw horse laid flat.
see if I could open the joints a little at a time.
If possible, then see if I could open them up all the way.
If possible take them apart, mix up some epoxy, put it together and
clamp for 24 hours ... Then rehang and plane anything true.

Using a wood glue on an older door like that would not necessarily take.
The wood may be oxidized, the glue might not be compatible... But epoxy
would work, and will also take up any gap that might have been created
by bending fibers.

This tongue and groove is really a coped rail and stile.. So the epoxy
will do the trick...if you can open it enough to inject the glue in,
that would suffice. Many wood working stores sell glue syringes. So you
can inject it in if you open the joint enough... you just have to clamp
it back together



On 6/17/2012 5:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:

I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined by
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.

On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.

You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
1-at-a-time:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012001.jpg
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...06-2012002.jpg

In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

TIA,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

Just don't make the mistake of gluing the panels into the frame. You
can glue one side if you like , but not recommended. Any more will
cause havoc for sure. They are designed as a "floating panel" Short
sections of screen spline inserted in the grooves inches from each
corner will center the panel and allow it to expand and shrink without
damage.

On 6/17/2012 4:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:


In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

The door is shot! Either rebuild it or replace it.

IMO anything short of that is a temporary fix, i.e. a band-aid on a
slashed throat.

What might work to temporarily remove the sagging and allow the door to
operate without dragging on the concrete would be one of those aluminum
or steel turnbuckle thingies made for SCREEN doors. One end to the
lower corner of the stile below the knob and the other as high up on the
hinge side stile as possible and then crank the turnbuckle to lift up
the sagging corner.

I realize it's a PITA but the best thing to do would replace or
refurbish that door.

Unquestionably Confused wrote:

On 6/17/2012 4:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:


In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at
top-of- segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the
observed sagging, it seems like it should be possible to reverse
the sagging (i.e. by storing the door upside down or somesuch) and
then reinforce it to hold true. But I havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for
reinforcing/repairing such wood doors?

The door is shot! Either rebuild it or replace it.

IMO anything short of that is a temporary fix, i.e. a band-aid on a
slashed throat.

What might work to temporarily remove the sagging and allow the door
to operate without dragging on the concrete would be one of those
aluminum or steel turnbuckle thingies made for SCREEN doors. One end
to the lower corner of the stile below the knob and the other as high
up on the hinge side stile as possible and then crank the turnbuckle
to lift up the sagging corner.

I realize it's a PITA but the best thing to do would replace or
refurbish that door.

The cost of doors are so cheap its not worth repairing, infact make
your own door as a project, forget dowels nice mortice and teno joints
should sought you out

On Mon, 18 Jun 2012 08:29:21 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 6/17/2012 4:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:


In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

The door is shot! Either rebuild it or replace it.

IMO anything short of that is a temporary fix, i.e. a band-aid on a
slashed throat.

What might work to temporarily remove the sagging and allow the door to
operate without dragging on the concrete would be one of those aluminum
or steel turnbuckle thingies made for SCREEN doors. One end to the
lower corner of the stile below the knob and the other as high up on the
hinge side stile as possible and then crank the turnbuckle to lift up
the sagging corner.

I realize it's a PITA but the best thing to do would replace or
refurbish that door.
Real red-neck repair - cut a chunk of sheet metal to fit the door and
tack it on all around on the inside of the door.

Kinda red-neck repair - the same using 1/4" plywood

On 6/18/2012 12:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jun 2012 08:29:21 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 6/17/2012 4:58 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:


In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how. :-(

Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
wood doors?

The door is shot! Either rebuild it or replace it.

IMO anything short of that is a temporary fix, i.e. a band-aid on a
slashed throat.

What might work to temporarily remove the sagging and allow the door to
operate without dragging on the concrete would be one of those aluminum
or steel turnbuckle thingies made for SCREEN doors. One end to the
lower corner of the stile below the knob and the other as high up on the
hinge side stile as possible and then crank the turnbuckle to lift up
the sagging corner.

I realize it's a PITA but the best thing to do would replace or
refurbish that door.
Real red-neck repair - cut a chunk of sheet metal to fit the door and
tack it on all around on the inside of the door.

Kinda red-neck repair - the same using 1/4" plywood


I call bullsh*t on that repair. If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you
gots to use duct tape. Lots and lots of duct tape!

On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we
live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

On 6/19/12 9:41 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I could
not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we live
miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed miserably. So
the yard work was put off for another day.


You just said the yard work was put off. I'd say it worked perfectly.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Keith Nuttle wrote:

Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind
my John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since
we live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

Thought you said the Duct tape did not work...

--

-Mike-

1.) Many thanks for numerous responses, all of which merit consideration.

Due to poor health and -very- hot weather, this is turning into a long-term
project.

I hope to re-work the door, but, in case it is intractable, I need a backup
(contingency) plan.

2.) Does anybody know where I might be able to purchase a new reasonably
priced wood frame-and-panel door measuring 80 x 32 x (about ) 1.25 "?

Thanks,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

Puddin' Man wrote:
1.) Many thanks for numerous responses, all of which merit
consideration.

Due to poor health and -very- hot weather, this is turning into a
long-term project.

I hope to re-work the door, but, in case it is intractable, I need a
backup (contingency) plan.

2.) Does anybody know where I might be able to purchase a new
reasonably priced wood frame-and-panel door measuring 80 x 32 x
(about ) 1.25 "?


Home Depot, Lowes, just about any place that sells lumber/home improvement
materials. Have you tried looking on the internet at all? No one can
really tell you much, since besides the obvious national vendors. who knows
where you live and what is available in your area?

--

-Mike-

Keith Nuttle wrote:

Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart
behind
my John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires.
I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape.
Since
we live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.
--------------------------------------
Did you follow the method approved by the American Duct Tape Council
for the repair of inflatable tires?

Lew

Try a recycle outlet or Habitat For Humanity outlet. Might even be
someone, with Habitat, to help you install a new/used door, since
you're handicapped, that way.

A slightly larger door would do, just trim it a bit.

Sonny

"Unquestionably Confused" wrote:

I call bullsh*t on that repair. If you want a REAL Redneck repair,
you gots to use duct tape. Lots and lots of duct tape!
--------------------------------------
As long as you follow the practices outlined by the American Duct Tape
Council, duct tape will do the job.

Lew

On Jun 19, 3:12*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Unquestionably Confused" wrote:
I call bullsh*t on that repair. *If you want a REAL Redneck repair,
you gots to use duct tape. *Lots and lots of duct tape!

--------------------------------------
As long as you follow the practices outlined by the American Duct Tape
Council, duct tape will do the job.

Lew

And here's something to keep that heat at a minimum:
http://www.prettygoodgoods.org/products/4358

On 6/19/2012 1:52 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
1.) Many thanks for numerous responses, all of which merit consideration.

Due to poor health and -very- hot weather, this is turning into a long-term
project.

I hope to re-work the door, but, in case it is intractable, I need a backup
(contingency) plan.

2.) Does anybody know where I might be able to purchase a new reasonably
priced wood frame-and-panel door measuring 80 x 32 x (about ) 1.25 "?

Thanks,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

Do you have a Habitat for Humanity store in your area? Many times
there is what they call Restore store. They sell many of the things
that are donated but because of local building regulations can not be
put into a new home.

http://www.habitat.org/cd/env/restor...rf4Aodbi1 b0w

The next time I have to replace a toilet I will definitely start there,
5 to 20 dollars verse over 100 new.

They also had many doors of all shapes and sizes.

Remember Murphy, because he is very active in stores like that.

On Tue, 19 Jun 2012 14:17:05 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
1.) Many thanks for numerous responses, all of which merit
consideration.

Due to poor health and -very- hot weather, this is turning into a
long-term project.

I hope to re-work the door, but, in case it is intractable, I need a
backup (contingency) plan.

2.) Does anybody know where I might be able to purchase a new
reasonably priced wood frame-and-panel door measuring 80 x 32 x
(about ) 1.25 "?


Home Depot, Lowes, just about any place that sells lumber/home improvement
materials. Have you tried looking on the internet at all? No one can
really tell you much, since besides the obvious national vendors. who knows
where you live and what is available in your area?
And no reason to limit yourself to a frame and panel door - a 4 or
six panel steel door would work just as well and look almost the same.
Bonus, it will NEVER go out of square.

wrote:

And no reason to limit yourself to a frame and panel door - a 4 or
six panel steel door would work just as well and look almost the same.
Bonus, it will NEVER go out of square.

Plus... the insulation in them is worth the cost. Especially if you live in
cold climates and use your garage in the winter time.

--

-Mike-

In article ,
says...

On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we
live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

Did you dismount the tire and put the duct tape on the inside?

On 6/20/2012 2:39 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we
live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

Did you dismount the tire and put the duct tape on the inside?


Is that the way it is done? ;-)






Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not basically a
sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape could make a
rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that could work as a
tire or tube patch.

Keith Nuttle wrote:


Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not basically a
sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape could make a
rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that could work as a
tire or tube patch.

That's what the layer of chewing gum, evenly spread across the duct tape is
supposed to do. Sheese - some people want the simplest things done for
them...

--

-Mike-

On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 08:46:02 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

On 6/20/2012 2:39 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we
live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

Did you dismount the tire and put the duct tape on the inside?


Is that the way it is done? ;-)

Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not basically a
sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape could make a
rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that could work as a
tire or tube patch.

I'll wait for Space Tape, TYVM. In the interim, I use green slime.

LJ, who recently read _Vorpal Blade_.

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain

On 6/20/2012 8:48 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:


Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not basically a
sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape could make a
rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that could work as a
tire or tube patch.

That's what the layer of chewing gum, evenly spread across the duct tape is
supposed to do. Sheese - some people want the simplest things done for
them...


Sorry missed the chewing gum. I will read the instructions better next
time.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 6/20/2012 8:48 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:


Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not
basically a sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape
could make a rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that
could work as a tire or tube patch.

That's what the layer of chewing gum, evenly spread across the duct
tape is supposed to do. Sheese - some people want the simplest
things done for them...


Sorry missed the chewing gum. I will read the instructions better
next time.

To be fair - it's one of those things you just had to know. Not published
anywhere. That's how those who did know about protect their income...

--

-Mike-

On 06/20/2012 06:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 08:46:02 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

On 6/20/2012 2:39 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we
live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

Did you dismount the tire and put the duct tape on the inside?


Is that the way it is done? ;-)

Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not basically a
sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape could make a
rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that could work as a
tire or tube patch.

I'll wait for Space Tape, TYVM. In the interim, I use green slime.

LJ, who recently read _Vorpal Blade_.


One two! One two! And through and through
The vorpal blade went snicker snack!



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 06:57:10 -0700, Doug Winterburn
wrote:

On 06/20/2012 06:48 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 08:46:02 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

On 6/20/2012 2:39 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On 6/19/2012 10:02 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
If you want a REAL Redneck repair, you gots to use duct tape. Lots and
lots of duct tape!
Duck tape does not work for everything. I was using the cart behind my
John Deere yard tractor, and got a puncture in one of its tires. I
could not find a tire patch, but did find a roll of Duct tape. Since we
live miles from any store, I tried to use duct tape, it failed
miserably. So the yard work was put off for another day.

Did you dismount the tire and put the duct tape on the inside?


Is that the way it is done? ;-)

Actually I think it would have worked IF Duct tape was not basically a
sticky web. It seems like the makers of Duct Tape could make a
rubberized tape that would be impervious to air, that could work as a
tire or tube patch.

I'll wait for Space Tape, TYVM. In the interim, I use green slime.

LJ, who recently read _Vorpal Blade_.


One two! One two! And through and through
The vorpal blade went snicker snack!

I like John Ringo's newer version of it better than Lewis Carroll's.
http://www.baenebooks.com/p-613-vorpal-blade.aspx

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

LJ, who recently read _Vorpal Blade_.

Ah, Ringo... One of my faves.

--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com