I'm planning to use milk paint to finish a

On Thursday, June 14, 2012 6:57:23 PM UTC-4, JayPique wrote:
I'm planning to use milk paint to finish a

....piece of furniture and have not used it before. I'm going to lightly distress the maple, then apply a coat of deep red, then black, then some sort of top-coat to seal it. I'd like to have a rub through finish in spots, that will show a bit of the red, and a bit more of the natural maple underneath. Any suggestions? Can I spray this paint through my hvlp (4 stage Fuji)? Do I need a different tip? Is it worth it to spray, or should I just brush it on, since I'm going to top-coat? Thanks for any suggestions.
JP

On Thu, 14 Jun 2012 16:01:55 -0700, JayPique wrote:

Can I spray this paint through my
hvlp (4 stage Fuji)? Do I need a different tip? Is it worth it to
spray, or should I just brush it on, since I'm going to top-coat?
Thanks for any suggestions. JP

I've never tried to spray it. Seems to be "authentic" it should have a
few brushmarks :-).

OTOH, Generql Finishes makes a faux milk paint which is just acrylic in
colors and sheen appropriate to real milk paint. I suspect it would
spray OK.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Thursday, June 14, 2012 4:01:55 PM UTC-7, JayPique wrote:
On Thursday, June 14, 2012 6:57:23 PM UTC-4, JayPique wrote:
I'm planning to use milk paint to finish a

...piece of furniture and have not used it before. I'm going to lightly distress the maple, then apply a coat of deep red, then black, then some sort of top-coat to seal it. I'd like to have a rub through finish in spots, that will show a bit of the red, and a bit more of the natural maple underneath. Any suggestions? Can I spray this paint through my hvlp (4 stage Fuji)? Do I need a different tip? Is it worth it to spray, or should I just brush it on, since I'm going to top-coat? Thanks for any suggestions.
JP

I have used it a lot just as you propose. Way to thick and granular to spray.

A few tricks\pointers:
1. You can apply a coat of shellac first. This will help to allow you to rub through to show the wood easier. It is just an option but something you can test.

2. I like to stain the wood first, then shellac, then paint, then rub.

3. A coat of shellac between paint coats can also help with seperation for rub through.

4. Faux finishers tip is to rub a candle or other wax stick in a few locations on top of the first color after it dries. Then after overpainting the second color has dried, rub the waxed areas with scotch pad and paint will chip off where wax was. Great effect.

5. I know you aren't looking to do a crackel finish but it can be cool to do some spot crackle, maybe a few strips like an inch wide a few inches long.. Just paint on crackle underlay or elmers white glue diluted with water over first color coat after it dries. Let the crackle mixture dry. When painting the second color, paint over the crackle areas quickly so you don't wet and mix the crackle underlay with the paint and in a few minutes as the new paint startes to dry the crackle will appear.

6. You can use shellac as the final overcoat and rub it out with steel wool to dull it a bit.

You can see one similar example, just a single color milk paint over pine rubbed and shellac overcoat dulled. On this page of my website, third row down at the far righ, click to expand army green night stands.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/index....=3&Ite mid=13