I know, or strongly assume, several of you are using very high end blades
(cf., Forrest Woodworker II).

I wonder if you would mind doing a little blade comparison/test for me? The
reason I am asking you to do it rather than doing it myself is, its a lot
cheaper for you to spend 19.95 +tax than it is for me to plunk down 110.95
+tax.

Harbor Freight has a blade I have been using for a long time and with very
good results. Crosscuts are usually, depending on the wood, extremely
smooth, the carbide last a long time and the rip cuts are a bit rougher than
the crosscuts but still acceptable. At least compared to other blades (none
high end) I have used.

Being a HF blade, I know I will never see it in a comparison test and was
wondering just how it compared.

The blade is this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...-bevel-design-
novelty-combo-blade-46231.html

I guess they call it a "Novelty Blade" because its a 50tooth raker, rather
than the standard 40tooth.

Deb

On Mon, 14 May 2012 19:04:18 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:


I know, or strongly assume, several of you are using very high end blades
(cf., Forrest Woodworker II).

I wonder if you would mind doing a little blade comparison/test for me? The
reason I am asking you to do it rather than doing it myself is, its a lot
cheaper for you to spend 19.95 +tax than it is for me to plunk down 110.95
+tax.

Harbor Freight has a blade I have been using for a long time and with very
good results. Crosscuts are usually, depending on the wood, extremely
smooth, the carbide last a long time and the rip cuts are a bit rougher than
the crosscuts but still acceptable. At least compared to other blades (none
high end) I have used.

Being a HF blade, I know I will never see it in a comparison test and was
wondering just how it compared.

The blade is this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...-bevel-design-
novelty-combo-blade-46231.html

I guess they call it a "Novelty Blade" because its a 50tooth raker, rather
than the standard 40tooth.

Deb, I've used HF carbide blades almost exclusively for years and
they're decent blades. You won't get nearly the life out of them as a
real blade g, but they're really not that bad, as you've seen. When
sharp, they will give you glue-edge smoothness. Most of the tips are
C2 or C3, not the newest in high-tech micro-grain stuff you find on
expensive blades. I have their 40T blades in 10".

I got spoiled by a Freud Diablo 7-1/4" circ saw blade last year and
have been upgrading to them ever since. I haven't yet installed the
12-inch Freud on my miter saw yet, but I bought one for it.

Production shops may get good use from a really expensive and nice
blade like the WWII, but I've never found the need to "eat off" a
nicely finished board, knowwhatImean,Vern? Both HF and Freud are
great value blades for po cheapskates like me.

Your request for a cheapest vs. most expensive blade comparison is a
good one. I'm really interested in the results, too. Perhaps they
could throw a Freud in there for the mid-priced blade? Maybe one of
those rich Texicans would be willing to do it for us, y'think?
gd&r

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On 5/14/2012 7:04 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I know, or strongly assume, several of you are using very high end blades
(cf., Forrest Woodworker II).

I wonder if you would mind doing a little blade comparison/test for me? The
reason I am asking you to do it rather than doing it myself is, its a lot
cheaper for you to spend 19.95 +tax than it is for me to plunk down 110.95
+tax.

Harbor Freight has a blade I have been using for a long time and with very
good results. Crosscuts are usually, depending on the wood, extremely
smooth, the carbide last a long time and the rip cuts are a bit rougher than
the crosscuts but still acceptable. At least compared to other blades (none
high end) I have used.

Being a HF blade, I know I will never see it in a comparison test and was
wondering just how it compared.

The blade is this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...-bevel-design-
novelty-combo-blade-46231.html

I guess they call it a "Novelty Blade" because its a 50tooth raker, rather
than the standard 40tooth.

Deb



Most all "new" carbide blades cut like new. Not many can be resharpened
10~12 times and still cut like new 10+ years later.

Hard to make a direct comparison as I would not waste money on a cheap
blade unleaa cutting questionable material.

BUT for 30+ years I have been doing what I call serious woodworking. I
bought my first Forrest blade for my cabinet saw in 1999 and have not
used another brand since. Yeah the extra expense is worth it.

I'll second that. I have other blades, Craftsman , delta, Freud.
I use the 80t Diablo in my miter saw... Or did until my Makita LS1013
took a dive down the stairs.

I use the Craftsman 20T blade to rip lots of wood it's fast and
relatively rough. I got 3 blades for 3 bucks at a garage sale. One was
steel and I tossed. The other 2 were the 20t and 40t.

And I use 2 other 40T blades for questionable wood or rough work
(framing , utility stuff)...

The Freud is great but it is 80T..
The WWII is awesome. There is nothing like it. It cuts smooth as silk.

So you want someone to plunck down $20 so you don't have to buy a good
blade. So someone should just throw away $23 (tax) to make you happy?

Unlike Leon, I would buy the blade if I had a need. For me saving my
good blades for good work is important.
Deb, do you live in Cali????


Deb



Most all "new" carbide blades cut like new. Not many can be resharpened
10~12 times and still cut like new 10+ years later.

Hard to make a direct comparison as I would not waste money on a cheap
blade unleaa cutting questionable material.

BUT for 30+ years I have been doing what I call serious woodworking. I
bought my first Forrest blade for my cabinet saw in 1999 and have not
used another brand since. Yeah the extra expense is worth it.

On 5/15/2012 7:12 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
I'll second that. I have other blades, Craftsman , delta, Freud.
I use the 80t Diablo in my miter saw... Or did until my Makita LS1013
took a dive down the stairs.

I use the Craftsman 20T blade to rip lots of wood it's fast and
relatively rough. I got 3 blades for 3 bucks at a garage sale. One was
steel and I tossed. The other 2 were the 20t and 40t.

And I use 2 other 40T blades for questionable wood or rough work
(framing , utility stuff)...

The Freud is great but it is 80T..
The WWII is awesome. There is nothing like it. It cuts smooth as silk.

So you want someone to plunck down $20 so you don't have to buy a good
blade. So someone should just throw away $23 (tax) to make you happy?

Unlike Leon, I would buy the blade if I had a need. For me saving my
good blades for good work is important.
Deb, do you live in Cali????


Hey I did qualify" unless using questionable material" LOL. I try to
never use questionable material. I consider questionable material as
wood which a customer or neighbor brings for me to cut.


Now having said that and to go with my previous comment, the condition
of the saw will have as much to do with the quality of the cut as the
blade will. Both have to be in top notch condition. Several have
commented that after buying and using a Forrest that they see no
appreciable difference. I can understand that if their saw is not of
the same quality as the blade.

So if your saw is a budget model you may be better served with blades
that you feel are doing a good job.

The biggest difference I found using a top quality blade was that I was
doing a lot less sanding to remove tooth marks than I previously had
with cheaper blades.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 5/14/2012 7:04 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I know, or strongly assume, several of you are using very high end blades
(cf., Forrest Woodworker II).


BUT for 30+ years I have been doing what I call serious woodworking. I
bought my first Forrest blade for my cabinet saw in 1999 and have not used
another brand since. Yeah the extra expense is worth it.

If you are actually going to do woodworking, and not just collect a bunch of
tools in a shop, it's one of those "cry once" things. I go long periods
between sharpenings and know I'll get a decent cut. I cannot say the same
for blades like the "came with the saw" Delta combination blades and other
low end blades that I encountered in the past.

I do use the "came with the saw" blades on the bench top saw for occasional
carpentry work but generally have a WWII on the cabinet saw and the
appropriate Forrest blade on the CMS. Exceptions are times when I'm doing a
lot of ripping of surfaced wood I put in a Freud rip blade (it cuts faster
and clean enough) or a dado blade.

That said, my bandsaw has gotten a lot of use for ripping solid woods over
the past six months as I've been using rough cut 8/4" maple and 2" pine and
it is safer and faster than the cabinet saw. After surfacing the boards hit
the cabinet saw...

John

For me sanding removes the polish that the WWII leaves on endgrain.
I think sanding with 220 is rougher than the WWII finish.

For ripping the finish is outstanding. But I usually touch up all glue
lines with my hand plane JOINTER or JACK. I like a sprung joint. Not a
flat one.


The biggest difference I found using a top quality blade was that I was
doing a lot less sanding to remove tooth marks than I previously had
with cheaper blades.

I started out with Freud and they were pretty good. In 1999 I followed
recommendations of others on the newsgroup and bought my first forrest
WWII. There was a noticeable difference in how it cut cleaner and
faster in all woods especially plywood. Earlier this year I noticed it
starting to burn edges and splinter plywood so I had it sharpened (first
time in 13 years). I'm amazed again at the quality of this blade. Not
to be ignored is the tolerance to which this blade is made. It's so
close to being perfectly flat I can align my contractor saw to within
..002 and not need a special flat plate or similar accessory.
If you amortize the cost of the blade over the rest of your life,
consider the actual cost per year - it's cheap and you'll never regret
it. That's the way I look at purchases. The only think I'd do
different is get a custom #6 grind for a flatter cut.
Btw, I'm an avid hobbyist just making projects for family and close
friends in my free time and when not fishing. I do not do this everyday
or as a business. Though, with my girls nearing the end of high school
I am getting much more free time to get into more serious projects soon.
If you're interested in a really good blade for a little less money,
I've heard a lots or really good things about Infinity blades.

John S.

On 05/15/2012 06:48 AM, Leon wrote:
On 5/14/2012 7:04 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I know, or strongly assume, several of you are using very high end blades
(cf., Forrest Woodworker II).

I wonder if you would mind doing a little blade comparison/test for
me? The
reason I am asking you to do it rather than doing it myself is, its a lot
cheaper for you to spend 19.95 +tax than it is for me to plunk down
110.95
+tax.

Harbor Freight has a blade I have been using for a long time and with
very
good results. Crosscuts are usually, depending on the wood, extremely
smooth, the carbide last a long time and the rip cuts are a bit
rougher than
the crosscuts but still acceptable. At least compared to other blades
(none
high end) I have used.

Being a HF blade, I know I will never see it in a comparison test and was
wondering just how it compared.

The blade is this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...-bevel-design-
novelty-combo-blade-46231.html

I guess they call it a "Novelty Blade" because its a 50tooth raker,
rather
than the standard 40tooth.

Deb



Most all "new" carbide blades cut like new. Not many can be resharpened
10~12 times and still cut like new 10+ years later.

Hard to make a direct comparison as I would not waste money on a cheap
blade unleaa cutting questionable material.

BUT for 30+ years I have been doing what I call serious woodworking. I
bought my first Forrest blade for my cabinet saw in 1999 and have not
used another brand since. Yeah the extra expense is worth it.

On 5/15/2012 9:52 AM, John Shear wrote:
I started out with Freud and they were pretty good. In 1999 I followed
recommendations of others on the newsgroup and bought my first forrest
WWII. There was a noticeable difference in how it cut cleaner and faster
in all woods especially plywood. Earlier this year I noticed it starting
to burn edges and splinter plywood so I had it sharpened (first time in
13 years). I'm amazed again at the quality of this blade. Not to be
ignored is the tolerance to which this blade is made. It's so close to
being perfectly flat I can align my contractor saw to within .002 and
not need a special flat plate or similar accessory.
If you amortize the cost of the blade over the rest of your life,
consider the actual cost per year - it's cheap and you'll never regret
it. That's the way I look at purchases. The only think I'd do different
is get a custom #6 grind for a flatter cut.
Btw, I'm an avid hobbyist just making projects for family and close
friends in my free time and when not fishing. I do not do this everyday
or as a business. Though, with my girls nearing the end of high school I
am getting much more free time to get into more serious projects soon.
If you're interested in a really good blade for a little less money,
I've heard a lots or really good things about Infinity blades.

John S.

John about 18 months ago I sent my oldest Forrest WWII in for sharpening
and had them put a flat grind on it. ;~)

Works great for flat bottom groves.

I have two other WWII's, one for use and the other to swap out when I
send the other to Forrest to be resharpened. Then there is the Forrest
Dado King set...

On Tue, 15 May 2012 09:52:46 -0500, John Shear wrote:

I started out with Freud and they were pretty good. In 1999 I followed
recommendations of others on the newsgroup and bought my first forrest
WWII.

I don't have a WWII, but I've seen cuts made with a new one. I bought a
Freud Fusion blade and it's gives cuts just as smooth. Of course, it's
pretty much in the same price range. My only complaint is that the
Fusion is an ATB grind, not an ATBR.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 5/15/2012 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:

John about 18 months ago I sent my oldest Forrest WWII in for sharpening
and had them put a flat grind on it. ;~)

Works great for flat bottom groves.

I have two other WWII's, one for use and the other to swap out when I
send the other to Forrest to be resharpened. Then there is the Forrest
Dado King set...

you all have sparked my interest in these blades. Just wondering who do
you send it to for sharpening and how much does that normally cost?

thanks



--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 5/15/2012 6:25 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 5/15/2012 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:

John about 18 months ago I sent my oldest Forrest WWII in for sharpening
and had them put a flat grind on it. ;~)

Works great for flat bottom groves.

I have two other WWII's, one for use and the other to swap out when I
send the other to Forrest to be resharpened. Then there is the Forrest
Dado King set...

you all have sparked my interest in these blades. Just wondering who do
you send it to for sharpening and how much does that normally cost?

thanks



I had a local sharpening service that I thought was pretty good when I
had average quality blades which I also bought from that sharpener,
Systematic brand.

I sent my first Forrest to the same sharpener the first time and
immediately tried it, took if off the saw, and sent it out to Forrest.
Forrest has done all of my sharpening ever since.

Forrest makes blades, they can certainly repair a blade. Important is
that the blade not only be sharpened but also checked for flatness.
I always send my blades back to Forrest with the instructions to return
the blade to factory specs and to notify me if the repair/resharpening
will exceed $50 not including shipping.

Since 1999 I have returned blades to Forrest 5 times.

First sharpening which included reflatening because I forgot to remove
the zero clearance insert before tilting the bevel cost me $41.95
including return shipping/IRS.

second $28.00 IRS, third, $28.50 IRS, fourth $29.50

fifth which included converting a blade to a flat grind cost $40.50 IRS.

So I have spent $168 on three different Forrest blades over a 13 year
period for sharpening/flattening when necessary and converting one blade
to cut flat bottoms.

On 5/15/2012 7:20 PM, Leon wrote:
On 5/15/2012 6:25 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 5/15/2012 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:

John about 18 months ago I sent my oldest Forrest WWII in for sharpening
and had them put a flat grind on it. ;~)

Works great for flat bottom groves.

I have two other WWII's, one for use and the other to swap out when I
send the other to Forrest to be resharpened. Then there is the Forrest
Dado King set...

you all have sparked my interest in these blades. Just wondering who do
you send it to for sharpening and how much does that normally cost?

thanks



I had a local sharpening service that I thought was pretty good when I
had average quality blades which I also bought from that sharpener,
Systematic brand.

I sent my first Forrest to the same sharpener the first time and
immediately tried it, took if off the saw, and sent it out to Forrest.
Forrest has done all of my sharpening ever since.

Forrest makes blades, they can certainly repair a blade. Important is
that the blade not only be sharpened but also checked for flatness.
I always send my blades back to Forrest with the instructions to return
the blade to factory specs and to notify me if the repair/resharpening
will exceed $50 not including shipping.

Since 1999 I have returned blades to Forrest 5 times.

First sharpening which included reflatening because I forgot to remove
the zero clearance insert before tilting the bevel cost me $41.95
including return shipping/IRS.

second $28.00 IRS, third, $28.50 IRS, fourth $29.50

fifth which included converting a blade to a flat grind cost $40.50 IRS.

So I have spent $168 on three different Forrest blades over a 13 year
period for sharpening/flattening when necessary and converting one blade
to cut flat bottoms.

thanks for the info. that all sounds quite reasonable.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

wrote:

I'll second that. I have other blades, Craftsman , delta, Freud.
I use the 80t Diablo in my miter saw... Or did until my Makita LS1013
took a dive down the stairs.

I use the Craftsman 20T blade to rip lots of wood it's fast and
relatively rough. I got 3 blades for 3 bucks at a garage sale. One was
steel and I tossed. The other 2 were the 20t and 40t.

And I use 2 other 40T blades for questionable wood or rough work
(framing , utility stuff)...

The Freud is great but it is 80T..
The WWII is awesome. There is nothing like it. It cuts smooth as silk.

So you want someone to plunck down $20 so you don't have to buy a good
blade. So someone should just throw away $23 (tax) to make you happy?

Unlike Leon, I would buy the blade if I had a need. For me saving my
good blades for good work is important.
Deb, do you live in Cali????




No, fortunately. I have retired and live in Alabama, where the taxes are
low and living is easy. :-)

Deb












Deb



Most all "new" carbide blades cut like new. Not many can be resharpened
10~12 times and still cut like new 10+ years later.

Hard to make a direct comparison as I would not waste money on a cheap
blade unleaa cutting questionable material.

BUT for 30+ years I have been doing what I call serious woodworking. I
bought my first Forrest blade for my cabinet saw in 1999 and have not
used another brand since. Yeah the extra expense is worth it.

Leon wrote:

So I have spent $168 on three different Forrest blades over a 13 year
period for sharpening/flattening when necessary and converting one blade
to cut flat bottoms.

My interest having been piqued from this discussion, I observed in the
Grizzly cicular that arrived today that they have a Forrest WWII
48-tooth 10" blade on sale for $151.95. Shipping on that would be
$16.95. I may try to find out the difference (in this new blade?), for
academic purposes. I think it has a higher grade of Carbide. Probably a
bargain if you wear the blade out.

Bill

On 5/15/2012 10:53 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

So I have spent $168 on three different Forrest blades over a 13 year
period for sharpening/flattening when necessary and converting one blade
to cut flat bottoms.

My interest having been piqued from this discussion, I observed in the
Grizzly cicular that arrived today that they have a Forrest WWII
48-tooth 10" blade on sale for $151.95. Shipping on that would be
$16.95. I may try to find out the difference (in this new blade?), for
academic purposes. I think it has a higher grade of Carbide. Probably a
bargain if you wear the blade out.

Bill


Simply a blade with more teeth for a cleaner cross cut. I use a 40
tooth WWII and get burnished cuts so I suspect a slower running saw may
benefit from more teeth.

Any way you can get one way cheaper here.

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.co...er_Cross_.html

Bill why would you want to pay more than every where else???

Woodcraft has them for 134.99 regularly. + 10.99 shipping.

BILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL



My interest having been piqued from this discussion, I observed in the
Grizzly cicular that arrived today that they have a Forrest WWII
48-tooth 10" blade on sale for $151.95. Shipping on that would be
$16.95. I may try to find out the difference (in this new blade?), for
academic purposes. I think it has a higher grade of Carbide. Probably a
bargain if you wear the blade out.

Bill

The Forrest website says $21 to sharpen a 40T 10" blade. But I just
looked back through my checking acct and see they charged $38. I need
to find my invoice to find the details of what they did...
Forrest blades come in a nice UPS-friendly cardboard package that you
can use to ship it back in. Save the packaging!

John S.

On 05/15/2012 06:25 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 5/15/2012 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:

John about 18 months ago I sent my oldest Forrest WWII in for sharpening
and had them put a flat grind on it. ;~)

Works great for flat bottom groves.

I have two other WWII's, one for use and the other to swap out when I
send the other to Forrest to be resharpened. Then there is the Forrest
Dado King set...

you all have sparked my interest in these blades. Just wondering who do
you send it to for sharpening and how much does that normally cost?

thanks

tiredofspam wrote:
Bill why would you want to pay more than every where else???

Woodcraft has them for 134.99 regularly. + 10.99 shipping.

BILL

Thanks! The regular (40-tooth) one would be good enough for me, in fact
even better! I'm looking forward to the results from the (possibly)
upcoming "Saw Blade Playoff"!




My interest having been piqued from this discussion, I observed in the
Grizzly cicular that arrived today that they have a Forrest WWII
48-tooth 10" blade on sale for $151.95. Shipping on that would be
$16.95. I may try to find out the difference (in this new blade?), for
academic purposes. I think it has a higher grade of Carbide. Probably a
bargain if you wear the blade out.

Bill

Btw, Mine was out for 2 weeks for sharpening. So I was stuck with the
"beater" Freud for a while. I probably should get that one sharpened
too as it has been through some abuse! Geez, I also have planer blades
and chisels in need of sharpening. I'm neglecting my regular
maintenance duties...

John S.

On 05/16/2012 09:43 AM, John Shear wrote:
The Forrest website says $21 to sharpen a 40T 10" blade. But I just
looked back through my checking acct and see they charged $38. I need to
find my invoice to find the details of what they did...
Forrest blades come in a nice UPS-friendly cardboard package that you
can use to ship it back in. Save the packaging!

John S.

On 05/15/2012 06:25 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 5/15/2012 10:26 AM, Leon wrote:

John about 18 months ago I sent my oldest Forrest WWII in for sharpening
and had them put a flat grind on it. ;~)

Works great for flat bottom groves.

I have two other WWII's, one for use and the other to swap out when I
send the other to Forrest to be resharpened. Then there is the Forrest
Dado King set...

you all have sparked my interest in these blades. Just wondering who do
you send it to for sharpening and how much does that normally cost?

thanks

Yes the 40T is a good blade, it's what I have.

On 5/16/2012 11:12 AM, Bill wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:
Bill why would you want to pay more than every where else???

Woodcraft has them for 134.99 regularly. + 10.99 shipping.

BILL

Thanks! The regular (40-tooth) one would be good enough for me, in fact
even better! I'm looking forward to the results from the (possibly)
upcoming "Saw Blade Playoff"!




My interest having been piqued from this discussion, I observed in the
Grizzly cicular that arrived today that they have a Forrest WWII
48-tooth 10" blade on sale for $151.95. Shipping on that would be
$16.95. I may try to find out the difference (in this new blade?), for
academic purposes. I think it has a higher grade of Carbide. Probably a
bargain if you wear the blade out.

Bill

I'm in need of maintenance on my planer. I have a dewalt planer 2 blade..
The roller has started giving me trouble feeding. I cleaned it with
mineral spirits and still a problem.. I'm thinking time to replace the
rollers... Anyone here done it??

Small job? Big job?

It's about 12 years old. Still cuts cleanly.

On 5/16/2012 12:16 PM, John Shear wrote:
Btw, Mine was out for 2 weeks for sharpening. So I was stuck with the
"beater" Freud for a while. I probably should get that one sharpened too
as it has been through some abuse! Geez, I also have planer blades and
chisels in need of sharpening. I'm neglecting my regular maintenance
duties...

John S.

"tiredofspam" wrote:

I'm in need of maintenance on my planer. I have a dewalt planer 2
blade..
The roller has started giving me trouble feeding. I cleaned it with
mineral spirits and still a problem.. I'm thinking time to replace
the rollers... Anyone here done it??

Small job? Big job?

It's about 12 years old. Still cuts cleanly.
---------------------------
Talk to DeWalt tech service.

Good people.

BTDT

Lew

On 5/16/2012 9:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Bill why would you want to pay more than every where else???

Woodcraft has them for 134.99 regularly. + 10.99 shipping.

BILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL



amazon has them for that price also.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wed, 16 May 2012 07:27:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Simply a blade with more teeth for a cleaner cross cut. I use a 40
tooth WWII and get burnished cuts so I suspect a slower running saw may
benefit from more teeth.

Not Forrest brand, but I have seen a number of other brand 10" x 80
teeth cut off blades.

I was wondering if you've ever compared crosscuts with one of these
80 teeth blades to one of the lesser teeth Forrest blades?

"Dave" wrote:

Not Forrest brand, but I have seen a number of other brand 10" x 80
teeth cut off blades.
--------------------------
Do a great job on plywood, at least mine did.

Lew

On 5/16/2012 10:14 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2012 07:27:08 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
Simply a blade with more teeth for a cleaner cross cut. I use a 40
tooth WWII and get burnished cuts so I suspect a slower running saw may
benefit from more teeth.

Not Forrest brand, but I have seen a number of other brand 10" x 80
teeth cut off blades.

This new Forrest blade is not a cut off blade, it too is a general rip
and cross cut blade.


I was wondering if you've ever compared crosscuts with one of these
80 teeth blades to one of the lesser teeth Forrest blades?


Actually I have compared my 40 tooth general Forrest blade to my 12"
miter saw blade, 60 teeth. Forrest is much smoother.

All things being equal except for tooth count, more teeth generally mean
a smoother cut. Each tooth takes a smaller chunk of wood.

BUT all things not being equal a cheap 90 tooth blade could produce a
rougher cut than a 40 tooth Forrest. If the blade does not remain
stable or the teeth are not precision ground to cut in the same plane
you will get a rougher cut.

I have, my 80T diablo and 40T WWII are equal on cross cuts.


On 5/16/2012 11:14 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2012 07:27:08 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
Simply a blade with more teeth for a cleaner cross cut. I use a 40
tooth WWII and get burnished cuts so I suspect a slower running saw may
benefit from more teeth.

Not Forrest brand, but I have seen a number of other brand 10" x 80
teeth cut off blades.

I was wondering if you've ever compared crosscuts with one of these
80 teeth blades to one of the lesser teeth Forrest blades?

On 5/15/2012 9:53 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

So I have spent $168 on three different Forrest blades over a 13 year
period for sharpening/flattening when necessary and converting one blade
to cut flat bottoms.

My interest having been piqued from this discussion, I observed in the
Grizzly cicular that arrived today that they have a Forrest WWII
48-tooth 10" blade on sale for $151.95. Shipping on that would be
$16.95. I may try to find out the difference (in this new blade?), for
academic purposes. I think it has a higher grade of Carbide. Probably a
bargain if you wear the blade out.

Bill


This blade?
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/f...erf58bore.aspx