Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/24/12 12:51 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks


Need to, no of course not, should you, probably yes.
Just tack down either one of the many special purpose flooring papers,
or you could just use a piece of roofing paper.
It will help to keep the floor quieter.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:51:12 PM UTC-4, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

I'm not a pro in this area, but Tom Silva of Ask TOH stapled down a layer of flooring paper underneath the wood flooring. He has a video on line of the installation.
JoeG

On 4/24/2012 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.


Unequivocal, no further questions, don't give a damn what anyone else says:

!ALWAYS PUT A MOISTURE BARRIER BENEATH A HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION!

IOW, it's mandatory.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 4/24/12 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks



There are several different papers and foam underlayments available
depending on the type/technology of hardwood and what you're putting it
on. Some have vapor barriers, some do better on uneven subfloors. All of
them will quiet down the creaking of the floor from differences in
expansion/contraction and simple rubbing together when walked upon.

A specialty flooring store should be able to recommend the correct one
for your specific application.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 4/24/2012 3:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/24/12 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks



There are several different papers and foam underlayments available
depending on the type/technology of hardwood and what you're putting it
on. Some have vapor barriers, some do better on uneven subfloors. All of
them will quiet down the creaking of the floor from differences in
expansion/contraction and simple rubbing together when walked upon.

A specialty flooring store should be able to recommend the correct one
for your specific application.



thanks for the reply. I won't be going to the flooring store. I have
stated that i'm putting red oak over osb, so i didn't think there was
any missing information. I could add that I've already doused the
flooring with boiled linseed oil 50/50 with thinner.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/24/2012 3:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/24/2012 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.


Unequivocal, no further questions, don't give a damn what anyone else says:

!ALWAYS PUT A MOISTURE BARRIER BENEATH A HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION!

IOW, it's mandatory.


thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll be procuring a small amount of
something for underlayment.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Steve Barker writes:
On 4/24/2012 3:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/24/12 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks



There are several different papers and foam underlayments available
depending on the type/technology of hardwood and what you're putting it
on. Some have vapor barriers, some do better on uneven subfloors. All of
them will quiet down the creaking of the floor from differences in
expansion/contraction and simple rubbing together when walked upon.

A specialty flooring store should be able to recommend the correct one
for your specific application.



thanks for the reply. I won't be going to the flooring store. I have
stated that i'm putting red oak over osb, so i didn't think there was
any missing information. I could add that I've already doused the
flooring with boiled linseed oil 50/50 with thinner.

Information missing:

- What is the OSB covering? Concrete slab? Basement? Crawl Space? Bare dirt?

And why would you douse the flooring with BLO?

scott

On Apr 24, 11:51*am, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? *I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

You probably want something under it to control moisture from below
and muffle squeaks a bit. A fairly standard, and inexpensive
underlayment for hardwood is rolled roofing felt. I would hate to buy
a full roll for this size but it will probably only cost
$15-18 ............. unless, like me, you have a half used roll
buried in the shed somewhere.

Also, a regular flooring nailer with "Christmas Tree" flooring nails
will provide a tighter attachment. Again, kind of expensive to rent
unless someone you know has one. The 16ga nails will be a little
light for a surface that gets a lot of foot traffic.

RonB

On Tue, 24 Apr 2012 15:39:15 -0500, Steve Barker wrote:

On 4/24/2012 3:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/24/2012 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.


Unequivocal, no further questions, don't give a damn what anyone else says:

!ALWAYS PUT A MOISTURE BARRIER BENEATH A HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION!

IOW, it's mandatory.


thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll be procuring a small amount of
something for underlayment.

A scrap of linoleum would work well.

basilisk

On 4/24/2012 3:59 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Steve writes:
On 4/24/2012 3:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/24/12 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks



There are several different papers and foam underlayments available
depending on the type/technology of hardwood and what you're putting it
on. Some have vapor barriers, some do better on uneven subfloors. All of
them will quiet down the creaking of the floor from differences in
expansion/contraction and simple rubbing together when walked upon.

A specialty flooring store should be able to recommend the correct one
for your specific application.



thanks for the reply. I won't be going to the flooring store. I have
stated that i'm putting red oak over osb, so i didn't think there was
any missing information. I could add that I've already doused the
flooring with boiled linseed oil 50/50 with thinner.

Information missing:

- What is the OSB covering? Concrete slab? Basement? Crawl Space? Bare dirt?

And why would you douse the flooring with BLO?

scott

it's a raised (15") landing at the foot of my stairs. 2x4's and 2x6's
underneath and then the main plywood floor. All my red oak gets BLO
first. As suggested in THIS group. And i love the result.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/24/2012 4:15 PM, basilisk wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2012 15:39:15 -0500, Steve Barker wrote:

On 4/24/2012 3:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/24/2012 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.


Unequivocal, no further questions, don't give a damn what anyone else says:

!ALWAYS PUT A MOISTURE BARRIER BENEATH A HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION!

IOW, it's mandatory.


thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll be procuring a small amount of
something for underlayment.

A scrap of linoleum would work well.

basilisk

THAT, i have. Thanks for the suggestion.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/24/2012 4:00 PM, RonB wrote:
On Apr 24, 11:51 am, Steve wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

You probably want something under it to control moisture from below
and muffle squeaks a bit. A fairly standard, and inexpensive
underlayment for hardwood is rolled roofing felt. I would hate to buy
a full roll for this size but it will probably only cost
$15-18 ............. unless, like me, you have a half used roll
buried in the shed somewhere.

Also, a regular flooring nailer with "Christmas Tree" flooring nails
will provide a tighter attachment. Again, kind of expensive to rent
unless someone you know has one. The 16ga nails will be a little
light for a surface that gets a lot of foot traffic.

RonB

It will see very little traffic, but i am considering hand nailing with
6d or 8d finish nails after predrilling.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Apr 24, 4:49*pm, Steve Barker wrote:


*All my red oak gets BLO
first. *As suggested in THIS group. *And i love the result.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

BLO does provide a nice appearance but it, itself, won't hold up to
foot traffic for long.

I am building a little rocking doll crib for a friend to give as a
gift. I gave it a long, wiping wet coat of BLO instead of stain. The
color is somewhat similar to natural stain, but the grain character is
much more pleasing - at least to my eye. But now I am adding 3-4
coats of wiping poly and I might top with a coat of wax.

RonB

On 4/24/2012 5:32 PM, RonB wrote:
On Apr 24, 4:49 pm, Steve wrote:


All my red oak gets BLO
first. As suggested in THIS group. And i love the result.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

BLO does provide a nice appearance but it, itself, won't hold up to
foot traffic for long.

I am building a little rocking doll crib for a friend to give as a
gift. I gave it a long, wiping wet coat of BLO instead of stain. The
color is somewhat similar to natural stain, but the grain character is
much more pleasing - at least to my eye. But now I am adding 3-4
coats of wiping poly and I might top with a coat of wax.

RonB

oh, i guess i should further explain. It was recommended i use the BLO
to bring the red out and pop the grain. Then it was suggested to use
wax free shellac to seal then poly. I have experimented and am quite
impressed with the results. I've got a board laying on the floor where
it get all the household traffic i've applied BLO, then a quick once
over with the 220, two coats of wax free shellac, then 220'd it, and
applied FIVE coats of oil based poly floor finish with a quick 220 in
between each of the coats. It is down right beautiful.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/24/12 3:37 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 4/24/2012 3:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/24/12 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks



There are several different papers and foam underlayments available
depending on the type/technology of hardwood and what you're putting it
on. Some have vapor barriers, some do better on uneven subfloors. All of
them will quiet down the creaking of the floor from differences in
expansion/contraction and simple rubbing together when walked upon.

A specialty flooring store should be able to recommend the correct one
for your specific application.



thanks for the reply. I won't be going to the flooring store. I have
stated that i'm putting red oak over osb, so i didn't think there was
any missing information. I could add that I've already doused the
flooring with boiled linseed oil 50/50 with thinner.


I'm saying that a call to a flooring specialty store with this same
information might yield good results. There is new stuff coming out all
the time that could save some time and/or money and give a better end
result than the old red paper that seems to be the old school standard.
Of course, the old red paper under solid hardwood might still be the
best thing.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

You want something to pad and allow slide between the hardwood and the
subflooring. Do not use anything that functions as a vapour barrier.
You want your woods to be equal moisture content to minimize unequal
moisture expansion and contraction in an attempt to eliminate as much
popping and snapping as possible. Cupping is hard to stop on a hardwood
floor with unequal moisture from top to bottom, also.


----------------
"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail
it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

thanks


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Need something with a barb on it.

16Ga will likely end up squeaking, badly, after woods of unequal
expansions age.

-----------
"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
It will see very little traffic, but i am considering hand nailing with
6d or 8d finish nails after predrilling.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Tue, 24 Apr 2012 11:51:12 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have
created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane.
(and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need
anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it
with my 16 ga finish nailer.

I always use lithium wheel bearing grease as a decoupler from the
subfloor. If I'm out of the grease, I use some of my lithium meds
mixed with Vaseline. It works nearly as well.

And I use HFT's -red- finish nails. They're slipperier & prettier.

(oh, darn. I'm 23 days late.)

--
Believe nothing.
No matter where you read it,
Or who said it,
Even if I have said it,
Unless it agrees with your own reason
And your own common sense.
-- Buddha

On 4/24/2012 11:05 PM, m II wrote:
Need something with a barb on it.

16Ga will likely end up squeaking, badly, after woods of unequal
expansions age.

-----------
"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
It will see very little traffic, but i am considering hand nailing with
6d or 8d finish nails after predrilling.


are you thinking ring shank? I don't really remember seeing any finish
nails with ring shank. But I haven't looked yet.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/25/2012 9:53 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
....

are you thinking ring shank? I don't really remember seeing any finish
nails with ring shank. But I haven't looked yet.

No, but there is a hardened spiral shank flooring nail as well as the
old cut flooring nail (similar to, but _not_ a masonry nail; they're
thinner profile).

I'd suggest one or the other over a standard finish nail certainly,
especially into subflooring rather than into joists.

www.grip-rite.com/files/GRfullCatalog.pdf


--

On 4/25/2012 10:12 AM, dpb wrote:
On 4/25/2012 9:53 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

are you thinking ring shank? I don't really remember seeing any finish
nails with ring shank. But I haven't looked yet.

No, but there is a hardened spiral shank flooring nail as well as the
old cut flooring nail (similar to, but _not_ a masonry nail; they're
thinner profile).

I'd suggest one or the other over a standard finish nail certainly,
especially into subflooring rather than into joists.

www.grip-rite.com/files/GRfullCatalog.pdf


--




thanks. i'm going to the orange box tomorrow. I'll see if they have them.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/25/2012 7:55 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
....

thanks. i'm going to the orange box tomorrow. I'll see if they have them.

Too bad there aren't CC finish like underlayment sinkers--but afaik
there aren't. Other than the odd situation like you have of
hand-nailing flooring there's little that really needs a lot of holding
power for a finish nail so no real market niche...

If'en they got 'em, I'd go w/ the spiral shank over the cut; they'll be
easier driving (particularly if you're the least bit out of practice w/
a larger hammer ).

--

On 4/25/2012 8:19 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/25/2012 7:55 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

thanks. i'm going to the orange box tomorrow. I'll see if they have them.

Too bad there aren't CC finish like underlayment sinkers--but afaik
there aren't. Other than the odd situation like you have of hand-nailing
flooring there's little that really needs a lot of holding power for a
finish nail so no real market niche...

If'en they got 'em, I'd go w/ the spiral shank over the cut; they'll be
easier driving (particularly if you're the least bit out of practice w/
a larger hammer ).

--




gettin' ready to leave here in a few minutes. I was wondering about
those cut nails. Seems like they'd just split the tongue right off the
board. I haven't tried nailing any of this red oak yet. Maybe it is
not as brittle as I'm thinking it is.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/26/2012 10:30 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
....


gettin' ready to leave here in a few minutes. I was wondering about
those cut nails. Seems like they'd just split the tongue right off the
board. I haven't tried nailing any of this red oak yet. Maybe it is not
as brittle as I'm thinking it is.


Surprisingly, if you're good enough to get them started in a single
blow, they don't do that badly. You do have to be sure to orient them
along the grain and avoid any spot w/ a knot or irregular grain but
other than a localized split, they don't cause huge splits (unless you
don't get them driven through and they twist or similar, that is ).

And, as noted they're slimmer w/ a better point than a masonry nail
which is about the only cut nail one sees any more...

--

On 4/26/2012 11:57 AM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 10:30 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
...


gettin' ready to leave here in a few minutes. I was wondering about
those cut nails. Seems like they'd just split the tongue right off the
board. I haven't tried nailing any of this red oak yet. Maybe it is not
as brittle as I'm thinking it is.


Surprisingly, if you're good enough to get them started in a single
blow, they don't do that badly. You do have to be sure to orient them
along the grain and avoid any spot w/ a knot or irregular grain but
other than a localized split, they don't cause huge splits (unless you
don't get them driven through and they twist or similar, that is ).

And, as noted they're slimmer w/ a better point than a masonry nail
which is about the only cut nail one sees any more...

--


well i can't seem to find either. Online or locally.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/26/2012 3:38 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
....

well i can't seem to find either. Online or locally.


http://www.mazelumber.com/catalog/
http://www.mazenails.com/locator/

http://store.tremontnail.com/cgi-bin/tremontnail/items?mv_arg=6

http://fasteners.hardwarestore.com/18-67-nails-bulk-specialty/hard-cut-flooring-nail-303586.aspx

That's a few for the cut...

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Nati...ing-Fasteners-

Lb-7D-2-1-4-Inch-Screw-Shank-Floor-

Nail-u867887.html?utm_source=Google%20Products&

utm_medium=Product%20Search&utm_campaign=Google%20 Products

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-52694/Detail

And a couple spiral-shank.

I'd think a full-service lumber yard or hardware should. Not terribly
surprised about the box stores; they're into lowest-common-denominator
mass-market stuff.

--

On 4/26/2012 5:03 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 3:38 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

well i can't seem to find either. Online or locally.


http://www.mazelumber.com/catalog/
http://www.mazenails.com/locator/

http://store.tremontnail.com/cgi-bin/tremontnail/items?mv_arg=6

http://fasteners.hardwarestore.com/18-67-nails-bulk-specialty/hard-cut-flooring-nail-303586.aspx


That's a few for the cut...

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Nati...ing-Fasteners-

Lb-7D-2-1-4-Inch-Screw-Shank-Floor-

Nail-u867887.html?utm_source=Google%20Products&

utm_medium=Product%20Search&utm_campaign=Google%20 Products

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-52694/Detail

And a couple spiral-shank.

I'd think a full-service lumber yard or hardware should. Not terribly
surprised about the box stores; they're into lowest-common-denominator
mass-market stuff.

--



Thanks so much for doing my research for me! I ordered them from the TV
in Arkansas. The shipping was out of sight from the first place.

Probably be good insurance to pre-drill this boards eh?. I only have one
spare made up.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/26/2012 7:13 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
....

Probably be good insurance to pre-drill this boards eh?. I only have one
spare made up.

Can't hurt...as noted, you need to be pretty good w/ a hammer to do
these w/o. If you're in shape and can really lay a lick on 'em w/o
smacking either your fingers or denting the floor, they'll go w/o but
"love taps" don't/won't cut it.

--

On 4/26/2012 8:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 7:13 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

Probably be good insurance to pre-drill this boards eh?. I only have one
spare made up.

Can't hurt...as noted, you need to be pretty good w/ a hammer to do
these w/o. If you're in shape and can really lay a lick on 'em w/o
smacking either your fingers or denting the floor, they'll go w/o but
"love taps" don't/won't cut it.

--




gotcha! I only have 13 boards to lay and they are only 43" long or so.
I will just set up a jig and pre-drill them on the drill press

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Steve Barker writes:
On 4/26/2012 8:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 7:13 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

Probably be good insurance to pre-drill this boards eh?. I only have one
spare made up.

Can't hurt...as noted, you need to be pretty good w/ a hammer to do
these w/o. If you're in shape and can really lay a lick on 'em w/o
smacking either your fingers or denting the floor, they'll go w/o but
"love taps" don't/won't cut it.

--




gotcha! I only have 13 boards to lay and they are only 43" long or so.
I will just set up a jig and pre-drill them on the drill press


Most home centers (e.g. home depot) will rent you ye old manual flooring
nailer for a pittance. With the appropriate fasteners. Much easier to
blind nail through the tongue with the proper tool. Just need a big mallet
to drive it.

for example

http://www.homedepotrents.com/diyTools/floor_stapler.asp

scott

On 4/26/2012 10:05 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Steve writes:
On 4/26/2012 8:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 7:13 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

Probably be good insurance to pre-drill this boards eh?. I only have one
spare made up.

Can't hurt...as noted, you need to be pretty good w/ a hammer to do
these w/o. If you're in shape and can really lay a lick on 'em w/o
smacking either your fingers or denting the floor, they'll go w/o but
"love taps" don't/won't cut it.

--




gotcha! I only have 13 boards to lay and they are only 43" long or so.
I will just set up a jig and pre-drill them on the drill press


Most home centers (e.g. home depot) will rent you ye old manual flooring
nailer for a pittance. With the appropriate fasteners. Much easier to
blind nail through the tongue with the proper tool. Just need a big mallet
to drive it.

for example

http://www.homedepotrents.com/diyTools/floor_stapler.asp

scott

i've considered the floor nailer option. It would take me longer to go
get it and take it back than it would to lay 12sq ft of floor. That's
why i'm manually nailing.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 4/26/2012 10:16 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
....

i've considered the floor nailer option. It would take me longer to go
get it and take it back than it would to lay 12sq ft of floor. That's
why i'm manually nailing.

Of course, you could have gotten and taken it back two or three (dozen?)
times in the time we've spent here...

--

On 4/27/2012 7:57 AM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 10:16 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

i've considered the floor nailer option. It would take me longer to go
get it and take it back than it would to lay 12sq ft of floor. That's
why i'm manually nailing.

Of course, you could have gotten and taken it back two or three (dozen?)
times in the time we've spent here...

--

LOL! yes, but i'm not ready to lay that landing yet. I'm still doing
drywall..

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the
cited author.]

In article ,
says...

On 4/27/2012 7:57 AM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 10:16 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

i've considered the floor nailer option. It would take me longer to go
get it and take it back than it would to lay 12sq ft of floor. That's
why i'm manually nailing.

Of course, you could have gotten and taken it back two or three (dozen?)
times in the time we've spent here...

--

LOL! yes, but i'm not ready to lay that landing yet. I'm still doing
drywall..

You should be aware that Ace Hardware sells a spiral shank hardened
flooring nail with countersink type head. Pre-drill the holes in the
tongue area of the flooring if you wish. Then pound in the nail. Set the
nail into the tongue with a nail set.



--

Michael Karas
Carousel Design Solutions
http://www.carousel-design.com

On Apr 26, 10:16*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 4/26/2012 10:05 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:









Steve *writes:
On 4/26/2012 8:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 7:13 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

Probably be good insurance to pre-drill this boards eh?. I only have one
spare made up.

Can't hurt...as noted, you need to be pretty good w/ a hammer to do
these w/o. If you're in shape and can really lay a lick on 'em w/o
smacking either your fingers or denting the floor, they'll go w/o but
"love taps" don't/won't cut it.

--

gotcha! *I only have 13 boards to lay and they are only 43" long or so.
* I will just set up a jig and pre-drill them on the drill press

Most home centers (e.g. home depot) will rent you ye old manual flooring
nailer for a pittance. * With the appropriate fasteners. *Much easier to
blind nail through the tongue with the proper tool. * Just need a big mallet
to drive it.

for example

* *http://www.homedepotrents.com/diyTools/floor_stapler.asp

scott

i've considered the floor nailer option. *It would take me longer to go
get it and take it back than it would to lay 12sq ft of floor. *That's
why i'm manually nailing.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Yeah, but you need to consider the finished project too. The floor
nailer is not only easy but it will drive the 'Christmas tree'
flooring nails with one good whack and put them where they belong.
Those nails do a pretty fair job of grabbing. I laid about 900 SF of
hardwood four years ago and the floor nailer made it pretty easy.
Even with the floor nailer I had to use a 16ga finish nailer for some
close quarters work and getting it in place to hit the tongue
correctly was kinda fiddly - and some of those boards squeak a little
now. About 1-1/2 years later I was in exactly the same situation as
you. I had about a 5' square landing to finish out and did the whole
thing with the conventional nailer. While I was wishing I had gone
ahead and rented the floor nailer during much of the job, I have to
admit the floor nailer would have been marginal on clearance in the
close quarters.

RonB

On Apr 29, 5:57*am, Michael Karas wrote:
[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the
cited author.]

In article ,
says...











On 4/27/2012 7:57 AM, dpb wrote:
On 4/26/2012 10:16 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
...

i've considered the floor nailer option. It would take me longer to go
get it and take it back than it would to lay 12sq ft of floor. That's
why i'm manually nailing.

Of course, you could have gotten and taken it back two or three (dozen?)
times in the time we've spent here...

--

LOL! yes, but i'm not ready to lay that landing yet. *I'm still doing
drywall..

You should be aware that Ace Hardware sells a spiral shank hardened
flooring nail with countersink type head. Pre-drill the holes in the
tongue area of the flooring if you wish. Then pound in the nail. Set the
nail into the tongue with a nail set.

--

Michael Karas
Carousel Design Solutionshttp://www.carousel-design.com

Keep in mind you have to be CAREFUL driving nails in tongue and groove
flooring with a hammer. One slip and you can end up striking the
exposed edge and leaving a dent. A nail set is necessary and setting
spiral shank nails with a set can be kinda difficult. But on a job
this size, you'll figure it out on the last one or two nails :0)