Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

Disclaimer: I'm not a carpenter.
Sounds like you would have to extend the horizontal molding to where
the bottom meets the bottom of the inclined molding, then divide the
angle so that both have the same angle where they meet. This would
mean a separate or third piece cut to form the transition. The more I
think about it the harder it looks. This would work on flat molding
like a baseboard but not on shaped molding. I give up.

--
Gerald Ross

If love is blind, why is lingerie so
popular?

On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?


You have to cut the protruding end point off.

Around an outside corner you miter.
Parallel or one end higher than another????? parallel never comes
together, so I don't know what you mean.

On 3/15/2012 7:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

To miter you have to split the difference equally on the cuts to have
the same projection.

--

On 3/15/2012 8:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?


You have to cut the protruding end point off.


It sounds like you are not coping with the world very well this morning. ;-)


If it were my problems I would do as suggested and cutting off the tip.
However if the tip is big, I would flare the pieces together by
cutting it in an eye pleasing line to connect the two pieces together.

Once the bottom edge looked correct, I would use a sharp chisel to carve
both pieced to make the profiles match.

I realize this is not a practical solution if you have many joints, but
if there are only 2 to 4 it would be doable. Since they are across the
room from each other they only have to match to the eye, not be perfect
duplicates.

On 3/15/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

To miter you have to split the difference equally on the cuts to have
the same projection.

--



Which works if working on the same plane. What are you going to do if
one molding is going from one elevation to another, at an angle,
stopping and immediately turning 90 degrees and proceeding horizontally?

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match
what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing... maybe
not!

John

On 3/15/2012 5:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?


If I understand you correctly, this is similar to the problem of cutting
crown moldings for vaulted/cathedral ceilings?

There are a couple of ways to do it, one using a transition piece. If
you DAGS "sloped crown molding", you should find some how to articles.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 3/15/2012 8:44 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

To miter you have to split the difference equally on the cuts to have
the same projection.

--



Which works if working on the same plane. What are you going to do if
one molding is going from one elevation to another, at an angle,
stopping and immediately turning 90 degrees and proceeding horizontally?

I can't envision precisely what he's after from the description (nor
yours ).

If there's an out-of-plane direction, the same is true--it takes
splitting the difference in the direction normal to the surface between
the two to get an equivalent projection on the two pieces; not
necessarily simple to measure or compute or cut...

It may be simpler to put in a butting-block to meet the ends against
from the opposite directions.

--

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
Consider a room with a ceiling sloping up to a peak at one end. That
would give you, for example...
East wall - 8' high
West wall - 12' high
North wall slopes- 8' high at one end, 12' at the other
South wall slopes - 8' high at one end, 12' at the other

You now want to put a molding all around the room at the wall/ceiling
corner. You want to cope the corners. If you cope the sloping wall
molding to the non-sloping walls, the cut which is to butt against the
non-sloping molding is going to be greater than the molding width. The
same is true if you try to cope non-sloping to sloping. Ditto if you try
to miter. Ditto if it were around the outside of a piece of furniture
configured in the same manner as the imaginary room.

There must be a way to do it and don't tell me "crown molding"...this is
complicated enough . The only way I can think of is the make the
sloping molding narrower so that the angled end cut will be the same
length as the molding it butts to is wide.


That situation is exactly addressed by the photo I posted to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

John

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.

A transition piece should work the same way with flat... though quite
frankly, cutting off the point would work too for paint grade work.

John

dpb wrote:
On 3/15/2012 8:44 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will
be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match
what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered
cuts?

To miter you have to split the difference equally on the cuts to
have the same projection.

--



Which works if working on the same plane. What are you going to do if
one molding is going from one elevation to another, at an angle,
stopping and immediately turning 90 degrees and proceeding
horizontally?

I can't envision precisely what he's after from the description (nor
yours ).

Let me try again.

Consider a room with a ceiling sloping up to a peak at one end. That would
give you, for example...
East wall - 8' high
West wall - 12' high
North wall slopes- 8' high at one end, 12' at the other
South wall slopes - 8' high at one end, 12' at the other

You now want to put a molding all around the room at the wall/ceiling
corner. You want to cope the corners. If you cope the sloping wall molding
to the non-sloping walls, the cut which is to butt against the non-sloping
molding is going to be greater than the molding width. The same is true if
you try to cope non-sloping to sloping. Ditto if you try to miter. Ditto
if it were around the outside of a piece of furniture configured in the same
manner as the imaginary room.

There must be a way to do it and don't tell me "crown molding"...this is
complicated enough . The only way I can think of is the make the sloping
molding narrower so that the angled end cut will be the same length as the
molding it butts to is wide.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Swingman wrote:
On 3/15/2012 5:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

If I understand you correctly, this is similar to the problem of
cutting crown moldings for vaulted/cathedral ceilings?

There are a couple of ways to do it, one using a transition piece. If
you DAGS "sloped crown molding", you should find some how to articles.

OK, that helps. Looks like one has to sort of "round off" the corner with a
piece cut and beveled to fit both the horizontal and sloping pieces.

Not bad for a drummer

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 3/15/2012 10:31 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Swingman wrote:

There are a couple of ways to do it, one using a transition piece. If
you DAGS "sloped crown molding", you should find some how to articles.

OK, that helps. Looks like one has to sort of "round off" the corner with a
piece cut and beveled to fit both the horizontal and sloping pieces.

Not bad for a drummer

Who's the drummer?

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will
be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes
will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside -
the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.

A transition piece should work the same way with flat... though quite
frankly, cutting off the point would work too for paint grade work.

Yeah, the transition thing would do it. Same with cutting off the point
except that any routed detail wouldn't match. That's what spackle is for


Thanks.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 11:35:38 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will
be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes
will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside -
the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.

A transition piece should work the same way with flat... though quite
frankly, cutting off the point would work too for paint grade work.

Yeah, the transition thing would do it. Same with cutting off the point
except that any routed detail wouldn't match. That's what spackle is for


No, spackle is for the walls. According to many new builders, no more
than half a 1/10-gallon tube of latex painter's caulk should be used
on a single moulding joint to cover for bad judgement in cutting
length or angle. (Urk!)

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 11:35:38 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will
be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes
will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside -
the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.

A transition piece should work the same way with flat... though quite
frankly, cutting off the point would work too for paint grade work.

Yeah, the transition thing would do it. Same with cutting off the point
except that any routed detail wouldn't match. That's what spackle is for


No, spackle is for the walls. According to many new builders, no more
than half a 1/10-gallon tube of latex painter's caulk should be used
on a single moulding joint to cover for bad judgement in cutting
length or angle. (Urk!)


Wow... they are getting kind of cheap with the caulk..... they stuffing rags
in the cracks first? ;~)

On Thursday, March 15, 2012 4:07:06 AM UTC-7, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I would clip it at twice the distance of the difference. So if the mismatch is 1/2" then clip it back 1" by 1/2"

On 3/15/2012 9:58 AM, dpb wrote:
On 3/15/2012 8:44 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?

To miter you have to split the difference equally on the cuts to have
the same projection.

--



Which works if working on the same plane. What are you going to do if
one molding is going from one elevation to another, at an angle,
stopping and immediately turning 90 degrees and proceeding horizontally?

I can't envision precisely what he's after from the description (nor
yours ).

If there's an out-of-plane direction, the same is true--it takes
splitting the difference in the direction normal to the surface between
the two to get an equivalent projection on the two pieces; not
necessarily simple to measure or compute or cut...

It may be simpler to put in a butting-block to meet the ends against
from the opposite directions.

--
Rather than try to explain, look here,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

Trim is 1x4 with 1/2" wide and deep groove 1/2" from bottom. I would
love to learn how to make that bottom right corner work with no extra
pieces like terminals.

On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

Leon wrote:


Trim is 1x4 with 1/2" wide and deep groove 1/2" from bottom. I would
love to learn how to make that bottom right corner work with no extra
pieces like terminals.

Can't do it. The board running on the angle will have to be wider than
board running horizontally. You can achieve the result of all of the detail
lining up correctly, but you will have two different width boards in order
to do that.

--

-Mike-

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
news
On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

The board against the wall in the background cannot have a square edge... it
will have a gap, as it does in the drawing.... The corner will not match up
either.

On 3/15/2012 4:59 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Trim is 1x4 with 1/2" wide and deep groove 1/2" from bottom. I would
love to learn how to make that bottom right corner work with no extra
pieces like terminals.

Can't do it. The board running on the angle will have to be wider than
board running horizontally. You can achieve the result of all of the detail
lining up correctly, but you will have two different width boards in order
to do that.


I know! ;~) I though this was what the OP was talking about.

On 3/15/2012 5:08 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
news
On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

The board against the wall in the background cannot have a square
edge... it will have a gap, as it does in the drawing.... The corner
will not match up either.



Right! I was trying to understand the OP's situation.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 3/15/2012 5:08 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
news
On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter
of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has
two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will
match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the
mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

The board against the wall in the background cannot have a square
edge... it will have a gap, as it does in the drawing.... The corner
will not match up either.



Right! I was trying to understand the OP's situation.

I think you nailed it... ;~)

John

2505: Bowling ball pitch gage. Shows the angle at which a finger hole
is drilled.

Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 4:59 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Trim is 1x4 with 1/2" wide and deep groove 1/2" from bottom. I
would love to learn how to make that bottom right corner work with
no extra pieces like terminals.

Can't do it. The board running on the angle will have to be wider
than board running horizontally. You can achieve the result of all
of the detail lining up correctly, but you will have two different
width boards in order to do that.


I know! ;~) I though this was what the OP was talking about.

Sorry - The way that thread unfolded, I got mixed up with respect to who was
really saying what.

--

-Mike-

On 3/16/2012 7:09 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will
be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes
will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside -
the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

Yeah, that's the idea.


You have to make do the best you can. It is a tough one to deal with.
Been there done that. ;~)

Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will
be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes
will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside -
the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are describing...
maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

Yeah, that's the idea.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Leon wrote:
On 3/15/2012 5:08 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
news
On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
wrote in message
...
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another;
that is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas
will be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the
copes will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the
outside - the mitered cuts?

Check ABPW for a photo... I think this is what you are
describing... maybe not!

John

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.


How about this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/

The board against the wall in the background cannot have a square
edge... it will have a gap, as it does in the drawing.... The corner
will not match up either.



Right! I was trying to understand the OP's situation.

Which you did. Actually, I had this problem when I was finishing my screen
porch a couple of years ago. I solved it but was wondering if there were a
better way.

I adjusted the width of the sloping molding a bit. The horizontal molding
had a beveled top. Actually, all the molding pieces had beveled tops so
that only the front edge touched the ceiling...much easier to get a fit that
way, NP with the non-ninety degree corner at ceiling/wall where it had been
taped.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?



I really cannot envision what you are asking about, but I have found on
several odd trim problems that it is sometimes easier to create a plinth
of sorts and let the trim die into the plinth block(s). I find this to
be better than cludging through some of the other rituals.

Here a few examples on more simple straight runs:
http://houseoffara.com/products/plinth-blocks/all

Here are some for cove which is what I suspect you are doing:
http://houseoffara.com/products/crown-blocks/all

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

DanG wrote:

On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?



I really cannot envision what you are asking about, but I have found on
several odd trim problems that it is sometimes easier to create a plinth
of sorts and let the trim die into the plinth block(s). I find this to
be better than cludging through some of the other rituals.

Here a few examples on more simple straight runs:
http://houseoffara.com/products/plinth-blocks/all

Here are some for cove which is what I suspect you are doing:
http://houseoffara.com/products/crown-blocks/all

Not a big fan of those clunky boxes on the corner of your walls. They
actually look like a weekend warrior job instead of a clean job.
--
http://www.rentmyhusband.biz/

Rich wrote:
DanG wrote:

On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper
perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that
is, that has two parallel sloped sides.

That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be
longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match
what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered
cuts?



I really cannot envision what you are asking about, but I have found
on several odd trim problems that it is sometimes easier to create a
plinth of sorts and let the trim die into the plinth block(s). I
find this to be better than cludging through some of the other
rituals.

Here a few examples on more simple straight runs:
http://houseoffara.com/products/plinth-blocks/all

Here are some for cove which is what I suspect you are doing:
http://houseoffara.com/products/crown-blocks/all

Not a big fan of those clunky boxes on the corner of your walls. They
actually look like a weekend warrior job instead of a clean job.

Well - beauty is in the eye of the beholder and one man's Coors is another
man's pee. Or something like that... That said, plinths are by no means a
weekend warrier thing. They are accepted architectural detail. But - not
everybody likes everything, so your tastes are your tastes.

--

-Mike-

On Thursday, March 15, 2012 4:07:06 AM UTC-7, dadiOH wrote:
Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another

Then, you make a transitional piece. Run the slant molding to the
piece, butt against it, and run the horizontal molding to the piece,
butt against it. And, the moldings don't have to match, because
they don't abut each other. It's kinda like a door trimmed out
with a bullseye at the corners can have crown and side moldings
not match.