Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

Sorry, I need to work on my spelling: "gAUge"!!!

On 3/13/2012 3:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

Don't know about others here, but I seldom use a standard miter "guage"
at all anymore. :-)

I purchased an Osborne EB-3 about 3-4 years ago, immediately hung up the
small gauges and between all of the specialty sleds, jigs, and the
Osborne I rarely find a need for the Incra I also bought.

--
Digger
Bob O'Dell

I have been using an incra 1000 se. It's been good enough. I had to shim
the back of the fence to get it perpendicular to the fence (minor
adjustment) It's as accurate as I'll ever need it.

On 3/13/2012 3:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

Depends on your needs.

A stock gauge can be made to work just fine, but you
will find that you rarely use it.

Take the one that comes with the saw and jazz it up with several bases
and some snazzy t-track like this
http://www.woodpeck.com/ttrackmain.html

Build yourself a sled and forget about the miter gauge.

Table saws are made to rip wood and sheet goods, neither of
which require a miter gauge.

I would look for a used Unisaw and consider doing a rebuild.

Go here for a LOT of ideas: http://www.owwm.org/


On 3/13/2012 12:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

On 3/13/2012 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I have a couple of Dubby jigs, left and right, had a Kreg miter gauge
and fence till it froze up on me and was worthless ofter that. I have
research many over the years. Osbourn, don't taste your time, inherent
flaws. I now have the Incra 1000HD and I added the next longer sized
fence. That is a superb miter gauge and I only initially wanted to use
it to square the ends of boards. For the most part it is so accurate
that I almost exclusively use it over the Dubby jig sleds that I used
for 11 years prior.

I looked at the 3000 but decided there was too much going on behind the
miter fence. 1 degree indexing is good enough for me however I can
still dial in 1/10 of a degree.

I find I use the longer fence all of the time. Something to consider.

On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

Bill wrote in :


Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no stops or detents, and
rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero is an absolute
necessity.

When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge in favor of an Incra
1000.

Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later, I'm still using the 3000, and
have no plans to change to anything else.

On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:43:50 -0400, Bill wrote:

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

I bought the Incra V120. No fence, but that's an easy add on. And it's
not overly expensive. See:

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV12...V120-Miter/dp/
B001RCTTG6



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 3/13/2012 4:32 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

My 3 hp can run out of power cutting dado's some times.

Bill wrote:


Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I had an Incra 1000, that I bought on Ebay. Turns out it was warped.
Called Incra, told them what I had and where I got it. They replaced it AND
gave my my choice of a 1000, 1000SE or a 2000. In talking to the rep, I
chose the 1000SE, primarily based on his recommendation. Very glad I did -
one fanstastic miter gauuge, from an awesome company.

Deb

On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 17:37:37 -0700, "Pat" wrote:

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

My 3 hp can run out of power cutting dado's some times.

Recalibrate your elbow tension for those times.

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On 3/13/2012 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I bought the low-end Incra on sale a few months ago and added an 18 inch
Kreg t-slot bar. Slots on top and bottom. Needed a tad of tweaking to
get it square to the blade, but very adjustable. Used that Kreg bar on
my sled as well and am pleased with my crosscutting options.

Beats the heck out of my standard Delta, which hasn't been quite the
same since it decided to take a dive on the floor.

Larry

Doug Miller wrote:

The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no stops or detents, and
rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero is an absolute
necessity.

When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge in favor of an Incra
1000.

Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later, I'm still using the 3000, and
have no plans to change to anything else.



Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a zero-clearence board
and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when you use it (for work you want
to come out "nice")? I'm starting to appreciate why miter saws are
popular...

Bill

tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

I have been using an incra 1000 se. It's been good enough. I had to
shim
the back of the fence to get it perpendicular to the fence (minor
adjustment) It's as accurate as I'll ever need it.

On 3/13/2012 3:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690
if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a
good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill


+1

Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690
if I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems
like a good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence
and a good blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that
the one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?


I have an older Grizzly 3HP, 220v. The included miter gauge head is cast
iron, bar is steel. You couldn't get to 1/2 a degree with it but It is
perfectly usesable for 99.9% of what most people would be doing. IOW, not
junk.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 3/13/2012 7:37 PM, Pat wrote:
Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

My 3 hp can run out of power cutting dado's some times.




Well there is that but I don't witness that either, cutting 3/4" wide,
half inch deep dados in oak.

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690
if I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems
like a good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence
and a good blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that
the one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?


I have an older Grizzly 3HP, 220v. The included miter gauge head is
cast iron, bar is steel. You couldn't get to 1/2 a degree with it
but It is perfectly usesable for 99.9% of what most people would be
doing. IOW, not junk.

The bar can be either plain or "T" via a removeable washer. It has built in
stops at 45 degrees L&R. The 90 degree stop is adjustable via a set screw
against a drop down piece of steel, NP getting it at precisely 90 degrees.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 3/13/2012 11:13 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no
stops or detents, and
rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero
is an absolute
necessity.

When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge
in favor of an Incra
1000.

Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later,
I'm still using the 3000, and
have no plans to change to anything else.



Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a zero-clearence board
and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when you use it (for work you want
to come out "nice")? I'm starting to appreciate why miter saws are
popular...

Bill

The Incra fences, at least my 1000HD came with t-bolts to attach a
sacrificial fence to the fence and the stop can be repositioned forward
to accommodate a 3/4"thick sacrificial fence. The sacrificial fence can
be easily and quickly adjusted. I use my gauge on both sides of the
blade, right side for squaring the ends of long stock so the sacrificial
fence gets slid and used in both directions.

I had a 12" Delta CMS, still do and I had a miter saw station set up
until I upgraded to a cabinet saw and added the Dubby sleds 12 years
ago. The TS literally replaced the CMS, I have not used the CMS in years.

I used the Dubby sleds exclusively for cross cutting work to length, I
still used the Kreg miter gauge to square stock ends. Since getting the
Incra 1000HD about a year ago I seldom use the Dubby sleds any more.
The sleds still work great but the Incra miter gauge delivers accurate cuts.

Bill wrote in :

Doug Miller wrote:

The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very
good: no stops or detents, and rather coarse graduations on the
miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero is an absolute necessity.

When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the
stock gauge in favor of an Incra 1000.

Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years
later, I'm still using the 3000, and have no plans to change to
anything else.



Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a
zero-clearence board and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when
you use it (for work you want to come out "nice")?

Depends on the material, and on the blade -- but for cutting close-grained woods such as
maple or cherry, using a sharp, clean, high-quality blade (e.g. Ridge Carbide or Forrest),
I've found that to be unnecessary.

For highly figured wood, or open-grained woods such as ash or oak, I usually do use a
backer board.

"Pat" wrote in message
nvilleaccesscompany...
Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

My 3 hp can run out of power cutting dado's some times.

That seems strange... is it a 3 HP induction motor pulling around 14-15 AMP
on 220 V or is it a universal motor running on 110 with a 3 HP rating?

I find that cutting even deep dados isn't a problem with my 3 HP Jet cabinet
saw as there is plenty of clearance for saw dust clearing and there is no
kerf binding. This as compared to rip cuts with a typical 1/8" kerf blade
where the ability to remove saw dust is limited by the gullet size, and kerf
pinch is not uncommon even with rip blades... Those issues, rather than the
HP, require slowing the feed rate down a bit in 8/4" stock.

John

On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 5:33:34 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 3/13/2012 4:32 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.

On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 5:33:34 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 3/13/2012 4:32 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.

Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull
blades.
3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~)
Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have
been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.


FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..

On 3/14/12 12:05 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw
similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned
out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing
sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things
aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better
features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's
all day the 5hp might be bettah.

Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull blades.
3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~)
Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have
been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.


FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..


I call Oak Rust.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/14/2012 12:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/14/12 12:05 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw
similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned
out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing
sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things
aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better
features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's
all day the 5hp might be bettah.

Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull
blades.
3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~)
Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have
been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.


FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..


I call Oak Rust.



Hummmmmmmmmmmm

Leon wrote:
On 3/13/2012 11:13 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no
stops or detents, and
rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero
is an absolute
necessity.

When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge
in favor of an Incra
1000.

Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later,
I'm still using the 3000, and
have no plans to change to anything else.



Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a zero-clearence board
and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when you use it (for work you want
to come out "nice")? I'm starting to appreciate why miter saws are
popular...

Bill

The Incra fences, at least my 1000HD came with t-bolts to attach a
sacrificial fence to the fence and the stop can be repositioned forward
to accommodate a 3/4"thick sacrificial fence.

You focussed right in on what was bothering me. I could not see how to
use a sled or sacrificial board and take advantage of the "precision
stops" that are an integral part of the product.

Of course, if one reads 130 reviews, the most common complaint, among
those that complain, is the accuracy for length rather than angular
measurement.

My thanks to everyone who has or is contributing to this thread. I have
found every post thought-provoking and helpful.

Bill




The sacrificial fence can
be easily and quickly adjusted. I use my gauge on both sides of the
blade, right side for squaring the ends of long stock so the sacrificial
fence gets slid and used in both directions.

I had a 12" Delta CMS, still do and I had a miter saw station set up
until I upgraded to a cabinet saw and added the Dubby sleds 12 years
ago. The TS literally replaced the CMS, I have not used the CMS in years.

I used the Dubby sleds exclusively for cross cutting work to length, I
still used the Kreg miter gauge to square stock ends. Since getting the
Incra 1000HD about a year ago I seldom use the Dubby sleds any more. The
sleds still work great but the Incra miter gauge delivers accurate cuts.

On Wednesday, March 14, 2012 10:05:51 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 5:33:34 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 3/13/2012 4:32 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.

Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull
blades.
3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~)
Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have
been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.


FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..

Well, my experience is different than yours. I guess they offer the 5hp just so they can get more money.

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 13:07:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/14/2012 12:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/14/12 12:05 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw
similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned
out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing
sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things
aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better
features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's
all day the 5hp might be bettah.

Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull
blades.
3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~)
Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have
been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.


FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..


I call Oak Rust.

Hummmmmmmmmmmm

OhmyBuddha! Not the Oak Rust thread again...

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:43:50 -0400, Bill wrote:


Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I have an older Grizzly miter gauge, for the G1023 saw, which I would
characterize as serviceable rather than "junk". Whether the gauge for
the g0690 is of similar quality, my suspicion is that it is. It seems
to have the same type of adjustment for taking slop out of the the
miter slot, and that works OK on my miter gauge.

My suggestion is that you purchase the saw and see what you think of
the gauge yourself. If you don't like it, there are plenty of better
aftermarket gauges, which you already know. These don't exist just
because of Grizzly's gauges.


It seems like a good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

Yes, if that is what you use for accurate cross cuts and angle cuts. I
made sleds that I use for when I want precision. I use the miter gauge
for convenience.

Jim Weisgram wrote:
On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:43:50 -0400, wrote:


Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I have an older Grizzly miter gauge, for the G1023 saw, which I would
characterize as serviceable rather than "junk". Whether the gauge for
the g0690 is of similar quality, my suspicion is that it is. It seems
to have the same type of adjustment for taking slop out of the the
miter slot, and that works OK on my miter gauge.

My suggestion is that you purchase the saw and see what you think of
the gauge yourself. If you don't like it, there are plenty of better
aftermarket gauges, which you already know. These don't exist just
because of Grizzly's gauges.

You are correct. I didn't intend to discredit Grizzly's miter guages (I
noticed, IIRC, that the ones they sell are cast iron), I just typed what
I read somewhere else. I learned a good amount from my from this thread
coupled with my own research.

Bill




It seems like agood miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

Yes, if that is what you use for accurate cross cuts and angle cuts. I
made sleds that I use for when I want precision. I use the miter gauge
for convenience.

"Jim Weisgram" wrote:

My suggestion is that you purchase the saw and see what you think of
the gauge yourself. If you don't like it, there are plenty of better
aftermarket gauges, which you already know. These don't exist just
because of Grizzly's gauges.
---------------------------------
Bill spend money?

Surely you jest.

Lew


It seems like a good miter guage is practically as important as a
good fence and a good
blade.

Yes, if that is what you use for accurate cross cuts and angle cuts.
I
made sleds that I use for when I want precision. I use the miter
gauge
for convenience.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Jim Weisgram" wrote:

My suggestion is that you purchase the saw and see what you think of
the gauge yourself. If you don't like it, there are plenty of better
aftermarket gauges, which you already know. These don't exist just
because of Grizzly's gauges.
---------------------------------
Bill spend money?

Surely you jest.

Lew

I was starting to wonder where you were. Good to see you!
Neither a lender nor a lender be?

Believe me "it" flows, you can see it from under that
Arco sign! : )

Bill






It seems like agood miter guage is practically as important as a
good fence and a good
blade.

Yes, if that is what you use for accurate cross cuts and angle cuts.
I
made sleds that I use for when I want precision. I use the miter
gauge
for convenience.

Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Jim Weisgram" wrote:

My suggestion is that you purchase the saw and see what you think of
the gauge yourself. If you don't like it, there are plenty of better
aftermarket gauges, which you already know. These don't exist just
because of Grizzly's gauges.
---------------------------------
Bill spend money?

Surely you jest.

Lew

I was starting to wonder where you were. Good to see you!
Neither a lender nor a lender be?

Oops, that was a typo: "Neither a borrower nor a lender be."
That's was I get for looking the quote up while I type it.



Believe me "it" flows, you can see it from under that
Arco sign! : )

Bill






It seems like agood miter guage is practically as important as a
good fence and a good
blade.

Yes, if that is what you use for accurate cross cuts and angle cuts.
I
made sleds that I use for when I want precision. I use the miter
gauge
for convenience.

On 3/13/2012 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill


It is a seldom used item once you have made a sled and/or own some type
of miter saw. I wouldn't waste any time or money on one.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

DanG wrote:

It is a seldom used item once you have made a sled and/or own some type
of miter saw. I wouldn't waste any time or money on one.


That sounds like a good way to start.

On 3/15/2012 12:37 AM, DanG wrote:
On 3/13/2012 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:

Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill


It is a seldom used item once you have made a sled and/or own some type
of miter saw. I wouldn't waste any time or money on one.


I have a miter saw and Dubby miter sleds, left and right sides. I
pretty much use the Incra 1000HD exclusively now. I use the sleds 10+
years and then I got the Incra which is more convenient and just as
accurate.

On 3/15/2012 1:35 AM, Bill wrote:
DanG wrote:

It is a seldom used item once you have made a sled and/or own some type
of miter saw. I wouldn't waste any time or money on one.


That sounds like a good way to start.

It is if you only want to make 90 degree cuts. For mitered cuts you
want to go with an Incra miter gauge or if you prefer the sled, get
something like the Dubby,

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/

On 3/14/2012 2:05 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012 10:05:51 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 5:33:34 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 3/13/2012 4:32 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:
Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if
I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a
good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good
blade.

The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the
one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?

Cheers,
Bill

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application
would that be better than 3 hp?

I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and
had no indication of strain with 3hp.

I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long
continuously, but just wondering.

I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.

Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull
blades.
3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~)
Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have
been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.


FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..

Well, my experience is different than yours. I guess they offer the 5hp just so they can get more money.

No, I think both saws you had issues with had bad motors, or dull
blades, or these saws were out of alignment, which seems apparent since
you did have one motor fail. Seriously a 220 volt 3hp motor should have
easily handled what you were cutting.

On 3/14/2012 1:57 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 3/13/2012 11:13 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no
stops or detents, and
rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero
is an absolute
necessity.

When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge
in favor of an Incra
1000.

Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later,
I'm still using the 3000, and
have no plans to change to anything else.



Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a zero-clearence board
and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when you use it (for work you want
to come out "nice")? I'm starting to appreciate why miter saws are
popular...

Bill

The Incra fences, at least my 1000HD came with t-bolts to attach a
sacrificial fence to the fence and the stop can be repositioned forward
to accommodate a 3/4"thick sacrificial fence.

You focussed right in on what was bothering me. I could not see how to
use a sled or sacrificial board and take advantage of the "precision
stops" that are an integral part of the product.

Of course, if one reads 130 reviews, the most common complaint, among
those that complain, is the accuracy for length rather than angular
measurement.

My thanks to everyone who has or is contributing to this thread. I have
found every post thought-provoking and helpful.

Bill

Length accuracy is a strong point with the Incra, it took me a while to
understand how to quickly recalibrate the miter gauge stop and fence
after moving it from one side of the blade to the other. I use the
gauge on the right side of the blade to take advantage of the long table
on my saw to square the ends of stock. I use the gauge on the left side
for cutting to length. When going back to the left side you have to
recalibrate the fence, recalibration takes about 10 seconds or however
long it would take you to position the stop on "zero" and slide the
fence and stop up to the blade and tighten two bolts.