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#1
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Working with Cherry
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas on wood. Thanks. -- Paul |
#2
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 19, 9:56*am, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas on wood. Thanks. -- Paul Cherry splotches with stain and dyes but less with dyes. Some people consider it a sin to stain or dye Cherry (I mean they are religious about it). If you must stain don't sand to smooth, maybe a light handed 150 or 180. Maybe use a gel stain which can be left thicker to flatten out the splotching. Ot my favorite is to use chemical dye process. You can use drano but pure dichromium phosphate is better. Kind of caustic but will darken Cherry in the most beautiful way. Use gloves and vapor respirator and neutralize with vinegar. |
#3
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Working with Cherry
Hello Paul,
I have been building furniture for my home using Cherry for a few years and recently discovered Tried and True finishes. I used it on a set of chairs designed by Kevin Rodel. The wood took on an aged look shortly after application and the grain seems to stand out very well. Kevin recommended one coat of Danish Oil followed by one coat of Varnish Oil. My wife loves the finish and I can't be happier now. The pen box I was referring to in my magnet thread is Cherry and I applied two coats of the Varnish Oil. Got good grain contrast but it is not as dark as my chairs are now. I joke around with folks and say you should never stain wood, especially Cherry, but I know some folks enjoy the look of a darker Cherry. I would never do it myself and the few "customers" who bought some of my projects are pleased with the natural color and aging process. I sand most items to 220 and apply the Tried and True as described on the label. It does not provide a shell type finish and I suspect it would not be a great moisture barrier but it works well in my house. I do not seal with shellac and just accept any blotching as part of the woods beauty. A real nice feature of the T & T is no fumes at all so you work with it in almost any room and not poison yourself. I don't know if it would ever darken to match the color of your friend's desk so this may not be worth considering, however you may want to check this out for yourself for future projects. Marc Here is T & T's website http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.htm If you want to see a pic of the chairs shortly after finished go to Lumberjocks to see my projects.http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51894 |
#4
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 19, 2:48*pm, marc rosen wrote:
Hello Paul, I have been building furniture for my home using Cherry for a few years and recently discovered Tried and True finishes. *I used it on a set of chairs designed by Kevin Rodel. *The wood took on an aged look shortly after application and the grain seems to stand out very well. Kevin recommended one coat of Danish Oil followed by one coat of Varnish Oil. *My wife loves the finish and I can't be happier now. The pen box I was referring to in my magnet thread is Cherry and I applied two coats of the Varnish Oil. *Got good grain contrast but it is not as dark as my chairs are now. I joke around with folks and say you should never stain wood, especially Cherry, but I know some folks enjoy the look of a darker Cherry. *I would never do it myself and the few "customers" who bought some of my projects are pleased with the natural color and aging process. *I sand most items to 220 and apply the Tried and True as described on the label. *It does not provide a shell type finish and I suspect it would not be a great moisture barrier but it works well in my house. *I do not seal with shellac and just accept any blotching as part of the woods beauty. *A real nice feature of the T & T is no fumes at all so you work with it in almost any room and not poison yourself. I don't know if it would ever darken to match the color of your friend's desk so this may not be worth considering, however you may want to check this out for yourself for future projects. * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Marc Here is T & T's website *http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products..htm If you want to see a pic of the chairs shortly after finished go to Lumberjocks to see my projects.http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51894 Beautiful work. The textiles are cool also. What joinery at legs to frame? Domino? |
#5
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Working with Cherry
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 09:56:50 -0800, Paul wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? As some one else said, you'll be drummed out of the congregation :-). One problem is that once you've stained it, the natural darkening is hidden forever. Try setting a piece out in the sun for a few days, assuming you can find any sun (and a dry spot) this time of year. Depending on the cherry, it may get dark enough to satisfy him. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Working with Cherry
Beautiful work. The textiles are cool also. What joinery at legs to frame? Domino?- Hi Sonoma, Thanks for the compliments. The legs are all mortise and tenon. I cut straight tenons and mortises to make the front and back assemblies. The fronts are joined to the backs via floating tenons. The mortises in the legs were cut on an angle while I used a router to cut straight mortises in the side rails. I did use my Domino to attach the two lower stretchers to the legs. It was especially helpful on the back leg which required a compound angle (85.5 degree sideways and 1.5 degree off vertical.) I used an angled shim between the Domino and the leg to get the holes just right. Six more chairs to go but they are on hold while I finish my dining room table. Thanks again for your comments. Marc |
#7
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 19, 3:55*pm, "Artemus" wrote:
What he said. *Plus cherry tends to darken over time when exposed to light. *A nice thick coat of paint can easily prevent this. ;~) Art I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through finish. They look great, IMO. JP |
#8
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas on wood. Thanks. -- Paul Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick. Let it age to its final dark hue. Won't take long. |
#9
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Working with Cherry
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:04:59 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote: On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote: I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas on wood. Thanks. Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick. Let it age to its final dark hue. Won't take long. Nah, it's blonde or Platina that gets my nod. BTW, recheck your Benny Moore Enduro statement. I found BM Impervo and GF w/b pre-cat Enduro, but no BME on a quick Goog. -- Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday. -- John Wayne |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 19, 7:16*pm, marc rosen wrote:
Beautiful work. The textiles are cool also. What joinery at legs to frame? Domino?- Hi Sonoma, Thanks for the compliments. *The legs are all mortise and tenon. *I cut straight tenons and mortises to make the front and back assemblies. *The fronts are joined to the backs via floating tenons. The mortises in the legs were cut on an angle while I used a router to cut straight mortises in the side rails. *I did use my Domino to attach the two lower stretchers to the legs. *It was especially helpful on the back leg which required a compound angle (85.5 degree sideways and 1.5 degree off vertical.) I used an angled shim between the Domino and the leg to get the holes just right. Six more chairs to go but they are on hold while I finish my dining room table. Thanks again for your comments. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Marc Yeah, those chair angles can be a real challenge. Sounds like a wel planned approach. |
#11
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Working with Cherry
"JayPique" wrote in message
... I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through finish. They look great, IMO. JP Can you elaborate, and please forgive my ignorance? Is this milk-paint that you rubbed through to expose the raw wood or did you have a hard clear finish with a softer paint on top that you distressed in places... Cheers, Shawn |
#12
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Working with Cherry
"JayPique" wrote in message
... Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of options. Oooh, I like that... especially for base cabinets with cherry uppers--or in my case, maple with TT cherry dye. What exactly did you use for paint and topcoat? I was thinking of going with Satin Impervo paint and Target or General Finishes Poly for topcoat... but you can save me a lot of experimenting. Cheers, Shawn |
#13
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 21, 9:17*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"JayPique" wrote in message ... I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through finish. *They look great, IMO. JP Can you elaborate, and please forgive my ignorance? *Is this milk-paint that you rubbed through to expose the raw wood or did you have a hard clear finish with a softer paint on top that you distressed in places... Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of options. JP |
#14
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Working with Cherry
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 18:35:09 -0800 (PST), JayPique
wrote: On Dec 21, 9:17*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote: "JayPique" wrote in message ... I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through finish. *They look great, IMO. JP Can you elaborate, and please forgive my ignorance? *Is this milk-paint that you rubbed through to expose the raw wood or did you have a hard clear finish with a softer paint on top that you distressed in places... Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of options. All I can say is YUCKIN' FUPPIES! -- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732 |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Working with Cherry
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 17:56:47 -0800, "RimaNeas"
wrote: "JayPique" wrote in message ... Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of options. Oooh, I like that... especially for base cabinets with cherry uppers--or in my case, maple with TT cherry dye. What exactly did you use for paint and topcoat? I was thinking of going with Satin Impervo paint and Target or General Finishes Poly for topcoat... but you can save me a lot of experimenting. Hey, a topcoat will make it shiny, and won't leave the trailer trash look. Well, maybe poly will. Carry on! -- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732 |
#16
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 22, 10:55*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote: All I can say is * * * * * * * * * * YUCKIN' FUPPIES! Ambrose Bierce has nothing on you... FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably. JP |
#17
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 22, 8:56*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"JayPique" wrote in message ... Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. *Of course you can use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the black. *I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then topcoated. *Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. *Lots of options. Oooh, I like that... especially for base cabinets with cherry uppers--or in my case, maple with TT cherry dye. *What exactly did you use for paint and topcoat? *I was thinking of going with Satin Impervo paint and Target or General Finishes Poly for topcoat... but you can save me a lot of experimenting. Some sort of oil based black paint I can't remember which - I'll check in the shop Monday if you'd like. And definitely sealed with MagnaMax, and ML Campbell product. JP |
#18
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Working with Cherry
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 08:31:02 -0800 (PST), JayPique
wrote: On Dec 22, 10:55*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: All I can say is * * * * * * * * * * YUCKIN' FUPPIES! Ambrose Bierce has nothing on you... FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably. Yabbut, not C H E R R Y , fergawdssake. -- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732 |
#19
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Working with Cherry
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 08:41:09 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably. Yabbut, not C H E R R Y , fergawdssake. Or walnut, or mahogany, or teak, or ... Paint all the pine you want to, Jay. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#20
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Working with Cherry
On Dec 20, 10:46*am, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:04:59 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell wrote: On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote: I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas on wood. Thanks. Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick. Let it age to its final dark hue. *Won't take long. Nah, it's blonde or Platina that gets my nod. BTW, recheck your Benny Moore Enduro statement. I found BM Impervo and GF w/b pre-cat Enduro, but no BME on a quick Goog. Correction noted, been a few years since I used Impervo. Great stuff. |
#21
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Working with Cherry
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:34:55 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote: On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 08:41:09 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably. Yabbut, not C H E R R Y , fergawdssake. Or walnut, or mahogany, or teak, or ... Paint all the pine you want to, Jay. +1 -- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732 |
#22
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Working with Cherry
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 11:31:56 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote: On Dec 20, 10:46*am, Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:04:59 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell wrote: On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote: I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas on wood. Thanks. Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick. Let it age to its final dark hue. *Won't take long. Nah, it's blonde or Platina that gets my nod. BTW, recheck your Benny Moore Enduro statement. I found BM Impervo and GF w/b pre-cat Enduro, but no BME on a quick Goog. Correction noted, been a few years since I used Impervo. Great stuff. ACK I'm having trouble getting over the "pervo" portion of the name. -- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732 |
#23
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Working with Cherry
On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 11:54:48 -0800, Larry Jaques
ACK I'm having trouble getting over the "pervo" portion of the name. Easy enough. Think of it is "Improve" not Impervo. |
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