I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I,
at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in
a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well
does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some
different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas
on wood. Thanks.

--
Paul

On Dec 19, 9:56*am, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I,
at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in
a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well
does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some
different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas
on wood. Thanks.

--
Paul

Cherry splotches with stain and dyes but less with dyes. Some people
consider it a sin to stain or dye Cherry (I mean they are religious
about it). If you must stain don't sand to smooth, maybe a light
handed 150 or 180. Maybe use a gel stain which can be left thicker to
flatten out the splotching.

Ot my favorite is to use chemical dye process. You can use drano but
pure dichromium phosphate is better. Kind of caustic but will darken
Cherry in the most beautiful way. Use gloves and vapor respirator and
neutralize with vinegar.

Hello Paul,
I have been building furniture for my home using Cherry for a few
years and recently discovered Tried and True finishes. I used it on a
set of chairs designed by Kevin Rodel. The wood took on an aged look
shortly after application and the grain seems to stand out very well.
Kevin recommended one coat of Danish Oil followed by one coat of
Varnish Oil. My wife loves the finish and I can't be happier now.
The pen box I was referring to in my magnet thread is Cherry and I
applied two coats of the Varnish Oil. Got good grain contrast but it
is not as dark as my chairs are now.
I joke around with folks and say you should never stain wood,
especially Cherry, but I know some folks enjoy the look of a darker
Cherry. I would never do it myself and the few "customers" who bought
some of my projects are pleased with the natural color and aging
process. I sand most items to 220 and apply the Tried and True as
described on the label. It does not provide a shell type finish and I
suspect it would not be a great moisture barrier but it works well in
my house. I do not seal with shellac and just accept any blotching as
part of the woods beauty. A real nice feature of the T & T is no
fumes at all so you work with it in almost any room and not poison
yourself.
I don't know if it would ever darken to match the color of your
friend's desk so this may not be worth considering, however you may
want to check this out for yourself for future projects.
Marc


Here is T & T's website http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.htm

If you want to see a pic of the chairs shortly after finished go to
Lumberjocks to see my projects.http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51894

On Dec 19, 2:48*pm, marc rosen wrote:
Hello Paul,
I have been building furniture for my home using Cherry for a few
years and recently discovered Tried and True finishes. *I used it on a
set of chairs designed by Kevin Rodel. *The wood took on an aged look
shortly after application and the grain seems to stand out very well.
Kevin recommended one coat of Danish Oil followed by one coat of
Varnish Oil. *My wife loves the finish and I can't be happier now.
The pen box I was referring to in my magnet thread is Cherry and I
applied two coats of the Varnish Oil. *Got good grain contrast but it
is not as dark as my chairs are now.
I joke around with folks and say you should never stain wood,
especially Cherry, but I know some folks enjoy the look of a darker
Cherry. *I would never do it myself and the few "customers" who bought
some of my projects are pleased with the natural color and aging
process. *I sand most items to 220 and apply the Tried and True as
described on the label. *It does not provide a shell type finish and I
suspect it would not be a great moisture barrier but it works well in
my house. *I do not seal with shellac and just accept any blotching as
part of the woods beauty. *A real nice feature of the T & T is no
fumes at all so you work with it in almost any room and not poison
yourself.
I don't know if it would ever darken to match the color of your
friend's desk so this may not be worth considering, however you may
want to check this out for yourself for future projects.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *Marc

Here is T & T's website *http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products..htm

If you want to see a pic of the chairs shortly after finished go to
Lumberjocks to see my projects.http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51894

Beautiful work. The textiles are cool also. What joinery at legs to
frame? Domino?

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 09:56:50 -0800, Paul wrote:

I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a
smooth wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk.
He, and I, at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would
like stained in a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked
with cherry, how well does it take a dark stain?

As some one else said, you'll be drummed out of the congregation :-).

One problem is that once you've stained it, the natural darkening is
hidden forever. Try setting a piece out in the sun for a few days,
assuming you can find any sun (and a dry spot) this time of year.
Depending on the cherry, it may get dark enough to satisfy him.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Beautiful work. The textiles are cool also. What joinery at legs to
frame? Domino?-

Hi Sonoma,
Thanks for the compliments. The legs are all mortise and tenon. I
cut straight tenons and mortises to make the front and back
assemblies. The fronts are joined to the backs via floating tenons.
The mortises in the legs were cut on an angle while I used a router to
cut straight mortises in the side rails. I did use my Domino to
attach the two lower stretchers to the legs. It was especially
helpful on the back leg which required a compound angle (85.5 degree
sideways and 1.5 degree off vertical.) I used an angled shim between
the Domino and the leg to get the holes just right.
Six more chairs to go but they are on hold while I finish my dining
room table.
Thanks again for your comments.
Marc

On Dec 19, 3:55*pm, "Artemus" wrote:


What he said. *Plus cherry tends to darken over time when exposed to
light. *A nice thick coat of paint can easily prevent this. ;~)
Art

I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through
finish. They look great, IMO.
JP

On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I,
at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in
a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well
does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some
different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas
on wood. Thanks.

--
Paul

Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick.
Let it age to its final dark hue. Won't take long.

On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:04:59 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I,
at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in
a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well
does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some
different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas
on wood. Thanks.

Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick.
Let it age to its final dark hue. Won't take long.

Nah, it's blonde or Platina that gets my nod.

BTW, recheck your Benny Moore Enduro statement. I found BM Impervo and
GF w/b pre-cat Enduro, but no BME on a quick Goog.

--
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
-- John Wayne

On Dec 19, 7:16*pm, marc rosen wrote:
Beautiful work. The textiles are cool also. What joinery at legs to
frame? Domino?-

Hi Sonoma,
Thanks for the compliments. *The legs are all mortise and tenon. *I
cut straight tenons and mortises to make the front and back
assemblies. *The fronts are joined to the backs via floating tenons.
The mortises in the legs were cut on an angle while I used a router to
cut straight mortises in the side rails. *I did use my Domino to
attach the two lower stretchers to the legs. *It was especially
helpful on the back leg which required a compound angle (85.5 degree
sideways and 1.5 degree off vertical.) I used an angled shim between
the Domino and the leg to get the holes just right.
Six more chairs to go but they are on hold while I finish my dining
room table.
Thanks again for your comments.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Marc

Yeah, those chair angles can be a real challenge. Sounds like a wel
planned approach.

"JayPique" wrote in message
...
I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through
finish. They look great, IMO.
JP

Can you elaborate, and please forgive my ignorance? Is this milk-paint that
you rubbed through to expose the raw wood or did you have a hard clear
finish with a softer paint on top that you distressed in places...

Cheers, Shawn

"JayPique" wrote in message
...

Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can
use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the
black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used
a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then
topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of
options.

Oooh, I like that... especially for base cabinets with cherry uppers--or in
my case, maple with TT cherry dye. What exactly did you use for paint and
topcoat? I was thinking of going with Satin Impervo paint and Target or
General Finishes Poly for topcoat... but you can save me a lot of
experimenting.

Cheers, Shawn

On Dec 21, 9:17*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"JayPique" wrote in message

...

I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through
finish. *They look great, IMO.
JP

Can you elaborate, and please forgive my ignorance? *Is this milk-paint that
you rubbed through to expose the raw wood or did you have a hard clear
finish with a softer paint on top that you distressed in places...

Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can
use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the
black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used
a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then
topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of
options.
JP

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 18:35:09 -0800 (PST), JayPique
wrote:

On Dec 21, 9:17*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"JayPique" wrote in message

...

I've built several kitchens of painted cherry with a rub-through
finish. *They look great, IMO.
JP

Can you elaborate, and please forgive my ignorance? *Is this milk-paint that
you rubbed through to expose the raw wood or did you have a hard clear
finish with a softer paint on top that you distressed in places...

Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can
use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the
black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used
a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then
topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of
options.

All I can say is
YUCKIN' FUPPIES!


--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 17:56:47 -0800, "RimaNeas"
wrote:

"JayPique" wrote in message
...

Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. Of course you can
use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the
black. I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used
a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then
topcoated. Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. Lots of
options.

Oooh, I like that... especially for base cabinets with cherry uppers--or in
my case, maple with TT cherry dye. What exactly did you use for paint and
topcoat? I was thinking of going with Satin Impervo paint and Target or
General Finishes Poly for topcoat... but you can save me a lot of
experimenting.

Hey, a topcoat will make it shiny, and won't leave the trailer trash
look. Well, maybe poly will. Carry on!

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Dec 22, 10:55*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:

All I can say is
* * * * * * * * * * YUCKIN' FUPPIES!

Ambrose Bierce has nothing on you...

FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably.

JP

On Dec 22, 8:56*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"JayPique" wrote in message

...

Black paint, rubbed through, and then clear-coated. *Of course you can
use any color, but I really like the way the cherry contrasts with the
black. *I've also built maple kitchens, rubbed through, and then used
a Mohawk stain marker to make the white maple a cherry color, then
topcoated. *Crackle finishes can be rubbed through too. *Lots of
options.

Oooh, I like that... especially for base cabinets with cherry uppers--or in
my case, maple with TT cherry dye. *What exactly did you use for paint and
topcoat? *I was thinking of going with Satin Impervo paint and Target or
General Finishes Poly for topcoat... but you can save me a lot of
experimenting.

Some sort of oil based black paint I can't remember which - I'll check
in the shop Monday if you'd like. And definitely sealed with
MagnaMax, and ML Campbell product.
JP

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 08:31:02 -0800 (PST), JayPique
wrote:

On Dec 22, 10:55*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:

All I can say is
* * * * * * * * * * YUCKIN' FUPPIES!

Ambrose Bierce has nothing on you...

FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably.

Yabbut, not C H E R R Y , fergawdssake.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 08:41:09 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably.

Yabbut, not C H E R R Y , fergawdssake.

Or walnut, or mahogany, or teak, or ...

Paint all the pine you want to, Jay.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Dec 20, 10:46*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:04:59 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I,
at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in
a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well
does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some
different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas
on wood. Thanks.

Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick.
Let it age to its final dark hue. *Won't take long.

Nah, it's blonde or Platina that gets my nod.

BTW, recheck your Benny Moore Enduro statement. I found BM Impervo and
GF w/b pre-cat Enduro, but no BME on a quick Goog.

Correction noted, been a few years since I used
Impervo. Great stuff.

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:34:55 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 08:41:09 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

FYI, folks have been painting wood for centuries...millenia probably.

Yabbut, not C H E R R Y , fergawdssake.

Or walnut, or mahogany, or teak, or ...

Paint all the pine you want to, Jay.

+1

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 11:31:56 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Dec 20, 10:46*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:04:59 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
On Dec 19, 12:56*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am going to be making a small item for someone, who would like a smooth
wood, not a heavy grain. It will be used on his dark cherry desk. He, and I,
at this point are considering a light cherry, which he would like stained in
a Burgundy stain. My question is, never having worked with cherry, how well
does it take a dark stain? I will be off tomorrow to check out some
different woods at Rockler and my local lumber store to get some more ideas
on wood. Thanks.

Orange shellac gives the color just the right starting kick.
Let it age to its final dark hue. *Won't take long.

Nah, it's blonde or Platina that gets my nod.

BTW, recheck your Benny Moore Enduro statement. I found BM Impervo and
GF w/b pre-cat Enduro, but no BME on a quick Goog.

Correction noted, been a few years since I used
Impervo. Great stuff.

ACK

I'm having trouble getting over the "pervo" portion of the name.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Sat, 24 Dec 2011 11:54:48 -0800, Larry Jaques
ACK
I'm having trouble getting over the "pervo" portion of the name.

Easy enough. Think of it is "Improve" not Impervo.