I need to make some raised panels for some shutters. The bevel will be at
15 degrees. When I cut the grooves in the rails and stiles to hold the
panels, should I bevel one side of the cut at 15 degrees to match the panel?
I'd appreciate knowing if this is the standard practice.

On Nov 20, 3:46*pm, "news.eternal-september.org"
wrote:
I need to make some raised panels for some shutters. *The bevel will be at
15 degrees. *When I cut the grooves in the rails and stiles to hold the
panels, should I bevel one side of the cut at 15 degrees to match the panel?
I'd appreciate knowing if this is the standard practice.

A beveled panel with no flat tail is a pretty crude panel compared to
most modern panel shapes that use shaped cutters. However, it is a
good old standard to make beveled panels on the table saw with just
such a bevel and no flat. I have made such panels many time and I
never beveled the slot. I have never heard of it being done either but
it would'nt hurt too much except maybe they would be very sloppy when
the panel shrinks a bit in winter.

Just be careful in the sizing to allow for some expansion and use some
space balls or something like that.

You could also make a flat on the TS as well, which I have also done.

On Nov 21, 12:15*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
On Nov 20, 3:46*pm, "news.eternal-september.org"
wrote:

I need to make some raised panels for some shutters. *The bevel will be at
15 degrees. *When I cut the grooves in the rails and stiles to hold the
panels, should I bevel one side of the cut at 15 degrees to match the panel?
I'd appreciate knowing if this is the standard practice.

A beveled panel with no flat tail is a pretty crude panel compared to
most modern panel shapes that use shaped cutters. However, it is a
good old standard to make beveled panels on the table saw with just
such a bevel and no flat. I have made such panels many time and I
never beveled the slot. I have never heard of it being done either but
it would'nt hurt too much except maybe they would be very sloppy when
the panel shrinks a bit in winter.

Just be careful in the sizing to allow for some expansion and use some
space balls or something like that.

You could also make a flat on the TS as well, which I have also done.

Or set up an angled fence across the blade and cut
coves into the panel edges, which will create flat tails.

On Nov 21, 10:42*am, Father Haskell wrote:
On Nov 21, 12:15*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:





On Nov 20, 3:46*pm, "news.eternal-september.org"
wrote:

I need to make some raised panels for some shutters. *The bevel will be at
15 degrees. *When I cut the grooves in the rails and stiles to hold the
panels, should I bevel one side of the cut at 15 degrees to match the panel?
I'd appreciate knowing if this is the standard practice.

A beveled panel with no flat tail is a pretty crude panel compared to
most modern panel shapes that use shaped cutters. However, it is a
good old standard to make beveled panels on the table saw with just
such a bevel and no flat. I have made such panels many time and I
never beveled the slot. I have never heard of it being done either but
it would'nt hurt too much except maybe they would be very sloppy when
the panel shrinks a bit in winter.

Just be careful in the sizing to allow for some expansion and use some
space balls or something like that.

You could also make a flat on the TS as well, which I have also done.

Or set up an angled fence across the blade and cut
coves into the panel edges, which will create flat tails.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That is always fun but it makes my nads crawl up a bit everytime I do
it and that is my primary indicator that something is dangerous, so I
don't do it any more unless there is no other option and a real need
for the shape.

Or set up an angled fence across the blade and cut
coves into the panel edges, which will create flat tails.

I did that once and it worked well. I have a hard time turning my mind 90
degrees and not making a logical mistake, though.

Thanks for the input.