SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not, at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I don't do enough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the unneeded parts on Craigslist.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On 11/14/2011 7:06 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
....

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on
the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust
collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not,
at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close
to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I
don't doenough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the
unneeded parts on Craigslist.
....

IMO the only reasons against the open grid wings are a) mass helps and
b) it is possible to get stuff caught in the grid on occasion if tip a
corner a little

There's no advantage from a dust collection standpoint; there's
insufficient air flow to pick up anything that far away any way, even if
it were solid table.

The most critical item is that the tables are flat and coplanar and can
be aligned precisely to provide 90 and 45 cuts in plane (that is, the
arbor tilt axis is in line w/ the plane so there's no twist vs angle).

If you have a set of flat tables out of the collection and they have
square edges that can be mounted(+) to make the precise plane w/ the
base table, use 'em.

Truthfully, I think you would likely get more "bang for the buck" w/ a
better fence than the tables but I can grok the wish.

-

(+) Or you can machine the edges to provide the necessary mating
surfaces or can shim or whatever it takes, of course...

--

Ivan Vegvary wrote in
news:4385764.143.1321319186731.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prez4:

SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with
the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years
back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions". Fast forward to
today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for
woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast
iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two
with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them.
The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best
salvaged parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of
checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on
the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust
collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not, at
my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close to
it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I don't
do enough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the
unneeded parts on Craigslist.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

I have an old Craftsman tablesaw with legs and cast iron extensions
(well, one has been replaced by a sort of cheesy router table "insert").
It is rather open especially in back, but I have a dust collection
contraption hanging under it. It works well enough until I win the
sawstop in a lottery ...


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 11/14/2011 7:06 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
...

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on
the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust
collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not,
at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close
to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I
don't doenough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the
unneeded parts on Craigslist.
...

IMO the only reasons against the open grid wings are a) mass helps and
b) it is possible to get stuff caught in the grid on occasion if tip a
corner a little

There's no advantage from a dust collection standpoint; there's
insufficient air flow to pick up anything that far away any way, even if
it were solid table.

The most critical item is that the tables are flat and coplanar and can
be aligned precisely to provide 90 and 45 cuts in plane (that is, the
arbor tilt axis is in line w/ the plane so there's no twist vs angle).

If you have a set of flat tables out of the collection and they have
square edges that can be mounted(+) to make the precise plane w/ the
base table, use 'em.

Truthfully, I think you would likely get more "bang for the buck" w/ a
better fence than the tables but I can grok the wish.


What he said. Plus, the open grids catch fingers really well. I fought
with a crapsman contractor TS for 30 years and still managed to snag
a finger every now and then. Bought a Unisaw and love it. I should
have kept the old crapsman and converted it to a disk sander. sigh
Art

mount all three or four in-line. install various blades. then use the
one you want. a pseudo homemade cabinet saw.

On 11/14/2011 08:06 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not, at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I don't do enough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the unneeded parts on Craigslist.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:

SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one
with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30
years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of
my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's
all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the
back, and two with retractable wheels.
--------------------------------
Whatever C/I extension floats your boat; however, to paraphrase James
Carvel, "It's the fence stupid".

Spend some money and get a GOOD one.

Lew

On 11/14/11 10:35 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:

SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one
with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30
years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of
my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's
all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the
back, and two with retractable wheels.
--------------------------------
Whatever C/I extension floats your boat; however, to paraphrase James
Carvel, "It's the fence stupid".

Spend some money and get a GOOD one.

Lew


Back when I was researching how I wanted to build my outfeed table, I
ran across a site that showed a guy who built a great tablesaw "around"
his crappy contractors' saw.

He basically set the little saw down into a big table and installed a
very nice fence. I don't know if it was an Incra or Biesemeyer or what,
but it was a beast. Later, he found a stronger motor for cheap and ended
up with a great cabinet saw.

It was all done on the cheap, except for the fence. Like Lew said, the
fence is the key. Then, perhaps, the blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Nov 14, 8:06*pm, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on the TS instead
of open cast iron grating. *I suppose it is for dust collection reasons?

Open grating on a contractor's saw cuts weight and makes
the machine easier to push around, as well as cheaper to
ship. A cabinet saw isn't going anywhere, so the top is
going to be heavier, which makes for a smoother cutting,
more durable machine. Go solid wings if you can -- you
can use the top of your saw as a surface plate for checking
how flat things are.

Ivan Vegvary wrote:


However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on
the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust
collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not,
at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close
to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I
don't do enough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.


Think man! Solid surface - easier to put things on. ****es me off when I
put something carelessly on the left side of my saw and it falls throught
the openings. You want to be able to throw things there without thinking
about it. It is after all, a flat surface, and by definition - additional
storage for the work area...

--

-Mike-

On 11/14/2011 7:06 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust collection reasons?


If you are talking about the base having a solid surround, a cabinet
saw, yes it is for the dust control and rigidity, more weight to cut
vibration, and to carry more weight from the normally much larger motor,
cast iron top, and massive trunnion. These thing weigh in at 450~600 lbs.

I built furniture for 17 years with a 1hp Craftsman, cast iron top with
stamped steel wings. Upgraded to a cabinet saw 12 years ago and will
not willingly go back.

You mention 5 hp motors hanging on the back of your saws, 240 volts
right? If not a 3hp 240 volt cabinet saw will run circles around that
120volt 5 hp.


If you are referring to the wing extensions being open, avoid them as
they will present more problems than those that are solid.



Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not, at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I don't do enough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the unneeded parts on Craigslist.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On Nov 14, 7:06*pm, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

I too owned one of the old Craftsman saws for 25 years and thankfully
moved up to a Grizzly 1023 about 11 years ago. I didn't like the
sheet metal table either; but did not really appreciate the real
differences until I got the cabinet saw:

1) In my opinion, the fence is the heart of any table saw. The
Craftsman Fence was true crap. If you want to soup up any full sized
saw look for a good quality fence like the Biesemeyer, A Grizzly
Classic, etc. You can buy them used.

2) Power - The additional 2 HP that came with the Grizzly provided a
night and day difference. But trying to put a 3-5 HP motor on a old
Craftsman grade saw might be more than the trunnions will stand.

3 Trunnions - They provide the stability for the blade and adjustment
convenience. The trunnions on my Grizzly are massive compared to the
smaller saw. But, in honesty, the trunnion rigidity on the Craftsman
was not terrible. The blade tilt mechanism was, on the other hand,
terrible. It took two hands to turn the crank and fine adjustments
were difficult.

If you are into building your saw I would worry less about tables and
more about finding a good base. Hit Graigslist for older Delta or
Grizzly contractor's saws. If you can find a rusty old Unisaw for a
couple hundred bucks you have hit a home run.

RonB

RonB wrote:


3 Trunnions - They provide the stability for the blade and adjustment
convenience. The trunnions on my Grizzly are massive compared to the
smaller saw. But, in honesty, the trunnion rigidity on the Craftsman
was not terrible. The blade tilt mechanism was, on the other hand,
terrible. It took two hands to turn the crank and fine adjustments
were difficult.


My saw is a Craftsman model 100 from back in the late 50's or early 60's.
For the amount of woodworking I do, it's fine, and it's better than the 8"
model I had before it. I agree that the tilt is the worst part of the
machine - I try to avoid tilting as much as I can. I just dread having to
tilt it. I did spend the time tuning the blade to the miter slot and was
nothing short of blown away by the difference in the way the saw cut after I
invested that time. The other problem I have is the **** pulleys on it. If
I tilt, I will slip the driven pulley on the arbor. That's a pulley issue
and I keep saying I'm going to invest in a set of high quality pulleys - but
every time I go to use the saw I remember that I never got around to it.
Sigh...

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:


My saw is a Craftsman model 100 from back in the late 50's or early
60's. For the amount of woodworking I do, it's fine, and it's better
than the 8" model I had before it. I agree that the tilt is the
worst part of the machine - I try to avoid tilting as much as I can. I
just dread having to tilt it. I did spend the time tuning the
blade to the miter slot and was nothing short of blown away by the
difference in the way the saw cut after I invested that time. The
other problem I have is the **** pulleys on it. If I tilt, I will
slip the driven pulley on the arbor. That's a pulley issue and I
keep saying I'm going to invest in a set of high quality pulleys -
but every time I go to use the saw I remember that I never got around
to it. Sigh...

Replying to my own post - feels like I'm talking to myself... Forgot the
other big thing that I don't like about it - though it's probably really not
such a big thing - the insert is a very thin piece of steel. It only sits
about 1/16th of an inch into the top. That makes it hard to make inserts
for it. That problem though, may be more of an issue in my mind than in
practical terms.

The saw has performed well for me though. I've built a compete set of
kitchen cupboards with it, bathroom vanities, built in cupboards, etc. It
cuts true, does not mind piles of crap being thrown on it when not in use,
and does not talk back to me or tell me that I'm wrong. It's obviously not
the female model...

--

-Mike-

On Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:54:35 -0600, Leon wrote:

If you are talking about the base having a solid surround, a cabinet
saw, yes it is for the dust control and rigidity, more weight to cut
vibration, and to carry more weight from the normally much larger motor,
cast iron top, and massive trunnion. These thing weigh in at 450~600
lbs.

As far as dust collection goes, my 1948 Delta is open with the motor
underneath. But it has a shroud around the blade and a port (square!)
out the back of the chute. Doesn't work as well as a good cabinet saw,
but a lot better than a contractor's saw. Seems like something similar
(with a round port) could be added to a contractors saw.

Here's a link to some photo's of a saw like mine. The dust chute can be
seen in the 3rd pic:

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=3666

Mine doesn't have the closed cabinet. It looks more like:

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=7694

but I still have the original monstrous motor (I can hardly lift it).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 11/15/2011 10:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:


My saw is a Craftsman model 100 from back in the late 50's or early
60's. For the amount of woodworking I do, it's fine, and it's better
than the 8" model I had before it. I agree that the tilt is the
worst part of the machine - I try to avoid tilting as much as I can. I
just dread having to tilt it. I did spend the time tuning the
blade to the miter slot and was nothing short of blown away by the
difference in the way the saw cut after I invested that time. The
other problem I have is the **** pulleys on it. If I tilt, I will
slip the driven pulley on the arbor. That's a pulley issue and I
keep saying I'm going to invest in a set of high quality pulleys -
but every time I go to use the saw I remember that I never got around
to it. Sigh...

Replying to my own post - feels like I'm talking to myself... Forgot the
other big thing that I don't like about it - though it's probably really not
such a big thing - the insert is a very thin piece of steel. It only sits
about 1/16th of an inch into the top. That makes it hard to make inserts
for it. That problem though, may be more of an issue in my mind than in
practical terms.

The saw has performed well for me though. I've built a compete set of
kitchen cupboards with it, bathroom vanities, built in cupboards, etc. It
cuts true, does not mind piles of crap being thrown on it when not in use,
and does not talk back to me or tell me that I'm wrong. It's obviously not
the female model...


I had a Craftsman with the thin insert. I did however find a zero
clearance one to fit it.

IIRC it was about 3/8" thick and had a rabbit? around the perimeter on
the bottom side so that the perimeter remained about 1/8" thick. It
used the same slotted key hole for the front attachment screw but used a
roll pin in the back to keep the back side from lifting up.

The only argument I can give is what happend to a friend of mine who the
open, cast iron table. His hand was on the extension, when a kick back
happened, bad cut, crushed bone and lost the finger. The weird thing about
it is he converted his Rockwell TS extension from the stamped steel, to the
cast iron, I put his old stamped steel ones and fence on my craftsmen.

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:4385764.143.1321319186731.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prez4...
SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the
sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was
"Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my
shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with
cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two
with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The
thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged
parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking
bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on the TS
instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust collection
reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not, at my
age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close to it by
assembling and building around the parts that I have. I don't do enough
woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the unneeded
parts on Craigslist.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:06:26 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

Since you already have some value in the saws you have, especially the
5HP models, my suggestion would be to keep your eyes open for a used
Unisaw and sell the saws you have to pay for it. As long as the Uni
doesn't have broken parts, you can handle bearing replacement if it's
needed. Those saws are pretty common on the used market and deals can
be had if you're patient.

Mike

On Nov 15, 8:23*pm, Mike O. wrote:
On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:06:26 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary

wrote:
SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. *It is the one with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. *My thinking, 30 years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. *I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for woodworking. *By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two with retractable wheels. *Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. *The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged parts. *(Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

Since you already have some value in the saws you have, especially the
5HP models, my suggestion would be to keep your eyes open for a used
Unisaw and sell the saws you have to pay for it. * As long as the Uni
doesn't have broken parts, you can handle bearing replacement if it's
needed. *Those saws are pretty common on the used market and deals can
be had if you're patient.

Mike

Just to add to Mike's suggestion, there are a LOT of older Unisaws in
education programs at both the high school and college/technical
levels. A lot of older woodworkers and cabinet shop folks were
introduced to woodworking with Unisaws. The schools rotate older
equipment out if their shops from time to time via auctions. Also,
and unfortunately, quite a few high schools are a abandoning woodshop
programs for budget and liability reasons. There are some good deals
in these areas if you can find them. A local school just sold a 60's
vintage Unisaw for $200 last summer. It was a little rough looking
but would have been a good fixer-upper. An restored 30 year old (or
older) Unisaw might be a significantly better machine that the newer
ones.

RonB

"RonB" wrote in message
...

On Nov 15, 8:23 pm, Mike O. wrote:
On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:06:26 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary

wrote:
SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the
sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was
"Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my
shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with
cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two
with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The
thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged
parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking
bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

Since you already have some value in the saws you have, especially the
5HP models, my suggestion would be to keep your eyes open for a used
Unisaw and sell the saws you have to pay for it. As long as the Uni
doesn't have broken parts, you can handle bearing replacement if it's
needed. Those saws are pretty common on the used market and deals can
be had if you're patient.

Mike

Just to add to Mike's suggestion, there are a LOT of older Unisaws in
education programs at both the high school and college/technical
levels. A lot of older woodworkers and cabinet shop folks were
introduced to woodworking with Unisaws. The schools rotate older
equipment out if their shops from time to time via auctions. Also,
and unfortunately, quite a few high schools are a abandoning woodshop.
programs for budget and liability reasons. There are some good deals
in these areas if you can find them. A local school just sold a 60's
vintage Unisaw for $200 last summer. It was a little rough looking
but would have been a good fixer-upper. An restored 30 year old (o
older) Unisaw might be a significantly better machine that the newer
ones.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they replace
something, the old one goes in the dumpster. Collages and tech schools are
great places for dumpster diving. Went to a local tech school once and came
home with a Tectronix oscilloscope and a never been used 20 meter ham
antenna. I got both out of the dumpster.

On 11/16/2011 1:31 PM, CW wrote:
....

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the time
to try to recoup at least a few nickels...

--

CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.

Lew

On 11/16/2011 1:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.
....

I've yet to run into any entity that doesn't have government auctions,
though, even though that might be so. I was just curious as to where
that might be that CW was/is--I suppose CA would be a good bet.

I have a shop about half-full of stuff that came from auctions at places
as diverse as Old Dominion U to Oak Ridge National Lab to TVA nuclear
construction sites to local high schools. Shaper came from ODU, planer
from TVA Brown's Ferry, a nice older lathe from the Clinton, TN, HS,
etc., etc., ...

Maybe it's another case of now the lawyers won that didn't use to, I
don't know, but they still do such locally.

--

On 11/16/2011 12:31 PM, CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster. Collages and tech
schools are great places for dumpster diving. Went to a local tech
school once and came home with a Tectronix oscilloscope and a never been
used 20 meter ham antenna. I got both out of the dumpster.

Congrats on the find, but if that was my "tax money at work", I'd be
protesting the obvious waste of taxpayer dollars.

On 11/16/2011 12:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.

Lew

Sell it "as is, where is, without warranty" and there's no liability anyway.

On 11/16/2011 1:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.

IOW, everything you do today, no matter that it be logical, wise,
efficient, or for the common good, is dictated in some manner by the
whims of jackasses in the legal profession ...

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 11/16/11 2:26 PM, Just Wondering wrote:
On 11/16/2011 12:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.

Lew

Sell it "as is, where is, without warranty" and there's no liability
anyway.


As long as there are lawyers, judges and juries, there will always be
liability. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote in
:

IOW, everything you do today, no matter that it be logical, wise,
efficient, or for the common good, is dictated in some manner by the
whims of jackasses in the legal profession ...

Who, in turn, derive their direction from higher authorities, Congress and
stet legislatures.


BarFFF

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote in
:

Swingman wrote in
:

IOW, everything you do today, no matter that it be logical, wise,
efficient, or for the common good, is dictated in some manner by the
whims of jackasses in the legal profession ...

Who, in turn, derive their direction from higher authorities, Congress
and stet legislatures.


BarFFF


and /state/ legislatures

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"dpb" wrote in message ...

On 11/16/2011 1:31 PM, CW wrote:
....

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the time
to try to recoup at least a few nickels...


Washington state.
--

On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:06:26 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

SWMBO bought me a Sears 10" TS over 30 years ago. It is the one with the sheet metal extensions, left and right. My thinking, 30 years back, was "Sure wish I had cast iron extensions".
Fast forward to today. I'm setting aside a small portion (12'x36') of my shop for woodworking. By now I have collected 3 additional TS's all with cast iron extensions, two with 5hp motors hanging from the back, and two with retractable wheels. Didn't pay more than $30 for any of them. The thinking was that I will assemble the best TS out of the best salvaged parts. (Have hobby machine shop and am more than capable of checking bearings, aligning arbors, etc. etc.)

However, every professional shop that I see has a solid surround on the TS instead of open cast iron grating. I suppose it is for dust collection reasons?

Please give me some harsh advise about which way to go. I can not, at my age, justify buying a cabinet saw, but would like to get close to it by assembling and building around the parts that I have. I don't do enough woodworking to warrant a high quality new purchase.

If the consensus is to go with a solid top I will gladly donate the unneeded parts on Craigslist.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Others have mentioned having a great fence so enough said about that.

Does your setup include a splitter behind the blade? It keeps wood
with internal stresses from closing on the blade and creating
kickback. That can result in flinging wood at you or pulling your hand
into the blade. Faster than you can react.

The splitter is generally part of the blade guard and if that is as
worthless as most blade guards out there, and you remove it, then you
really need to come up with an alternative splitter.

New table saws use riving knives rather than a splitter integral with
the dust collector, and are actually safer enough to be an argument
for getting a new saw, at any age.

On 11/16/2011 3:46 PM, Han wrote:
....

Who, in turn, derive their direction from higher authorities, Congress
and stet legislatures.


BarFFF


and /state/ legislatures

Who are, for the most part, lawyers...

--

On 11/16/11 3:52 PM, CW wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 11/16/2011 1:31 PM, CW wrote:
...

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the time
to try to recoup at least a few nickels...


Washington state. --

When I worked for a state university, I wasn't allowed to give away or
sell anything-- no matter how antiquated, or broken. It all had to go
down to the surplus warehouse for auction. They had a pretty big
facility with lots of expensive equipment and trucks and a big staff to
pay wages and benefits. I am positive the whole department operated at a
loss and cost the state much more money that throwing/giving away the
stuff.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...


CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a restriction;
generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the time to try to
recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When I asked about it, I was told that they were afraid that someone might
profit from it.

"dpb" wrote:

I've yet to run into any entity that doesn't have government
auctions, though, even though that might be so. I was just curious
as to where that might be that CW was/is--I suppose CA would be a
good bet.

I have a shop about half-full of stuff that came from auctions at
places as diverse as Old Dominion U to Oak Ridge National Lab to TVA
nuclear construction sites to local high schools. Shaper came from
ODU, planer from TVA Brown's Ferry, a nice older lathe from the
Clinton, TN, HS, etc., etc., ...

Maybe it's another case of now the lawyers won that didn't use to, I
don't know, but they still do such locally.
----------------------------------
Ancient history.

The introduction of SawStop technology to the market has brought a
whole new definition to machine tool liability.

Lew


--

On 11/16/2011 3:52 PM, CW wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 11/16/2011 1:31 PM, CW wrote:
....

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the time
to try to recoup at least a few nickels...


Washington state. --

http://www.ga.wa.gov/surplus/index.html
http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/bham,wa/browse/cataucs?catid=6
http://www.governmentauctions.org/aNoFeeAuctionShow.asp?AucId=2002&src=src2&DateID=7 1
http://www.governmentauctions.org/aNoFeeAuctionShow.asp?AucId=2002&src=src2&DateID=7 1

Apparently that must be local policy, not state...

--

On 11/16/2011 4:02 PM, CW wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...


CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


When I asked about it, I was told that they were afraid that someone
might profit from it.

Someone "who"? In the school system? If so, while looking at the
available current auctions in WA for public schools/universities I also
look at WA statute search results. Found only the expected result that
any proceeds from the disposal of school district properties, real or
personal, go to the appropriate district coffers. And, it was clear the
school districts have the unfettered right to buy and sell any property
to which they have title.

Sounds like an overly-fearful local school board. Maybe there was a
goof-up in the past and this is the consequent over-reaction?

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...

On 11/16/2011 4:02 PM, CW wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...


CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


When I asked about it, I was told that they were afraid that someone
might profit from it.

Someone "who"? In the school system? If so, while looking at the
available current auctions in WA for public schools/universities I also
look at WA statute search results. Found only the expected result that
any proceeds from the disposal of school district properties, real or
personal, go to the appropriate district coffers. And, it was clear the
school districts have the unfettered right to buy and sell any property
to which they have title.

Sounds like an overly-fearful local school board. Maybe there was a
goof-up in the past and this is the consequent over-reaction?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Seemed pretty goofy to me to but that is what I was told. Never did look it
up. Not that interested. I know what I see though and lots of good stuff
goes into the dumpster. It's more likely that the turn in process is a
bigger PIA than it's worth.

On 11/16/2011 4:49 PM, CW wrote:
....

Seemed pretty goofy to me to but that is what I was told....

More likely the teller wasn't right (fully) I'd guess.

I really doubt a used school bus or car or major piece of gear goes in
the dumpster.

--

On Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:28:12 -0600, Swingman wrote:

On 11/16/2011 1:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.

IOW, everything you do today, no matter that it be logical, wise,
efficient, or for the common good, is dictated in some manner by the
whims of jackasses in the legal profession ...

Speaking of jerky speaking weasels, I received an email today about
the Netflix and Walmart DVD Class Action Lawsuit. Everyone who has
ever been a member is included in the suit by default. You must send a
letter, not email, saying you wish to be excluded. Streaming was
included with my DVD rental agreement so I wasn't gypped on the
streaming price, whatever. I'm still a bit miffed at Netflix over the
Quickster crap and the price hikes, but I won't knowingly be a party
to a legal hosing like they're about to get.

The last class action lawsuit I won was news to me when the EIGHT CENT
check came in the mail. I'll bet the lawyers on the suit each settled
for that much glorious bounty, too, don't you?

Shakespeare was right. harrumph

--
Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power.
-- Seneca

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:28:12 -0600, Swingman wrote:

On 11/16/2011 1:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
CW wrote:

Around here, schools are not allowed to auction things off. If they
replace something, the old one goes in the dumpster....
----------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

Where in the world might that be? I've never heard of such a
restriction; generally gov't entities have surplus auctions all the
time to try to recoup at least a few nickels...
----------------------------------
Liability!

Scrap it and the liability chain is broken.

IOW, everything you do today, no matter that it be logical, wise,
efficient, or for the common good, is dictated in some manner by the
whims of jackasses in the legal profession ...

Speaking of jerky speaking weasels, I received an email today about
the Netflix and Walmart DVD Class Action Lawsuit. Everyone who has
ever been a member is included in the suit by default. You must send a
letter, not email, saying you wish to be excluded. Streaming was
included with my DVD rental agreement so I wasn't gypped on the
streaming price, whatever. I'm still a bit miffed at Netflix over the
Quickster crap and the price hikes, but I won't knowingly be a party
to a legal hosing like they're about to get.

The last class action lawsuit I won was news to me when the EIGHT CENT
check came in the mail. I'll bet the lawyers on the suit each settled
for that much glorious bounty, too, don't you?

Shakespeare was right. harrumph

Got the same thing today and I figure the cost of the check and postage to
me is coming out of a lawyer's pocket, so I'll let them send it. We'd all be
better served if judges limited the lawyer's fees to the maximum paid to any
individual. But, of course, judges Are lawyers ...