Hi all,
I know that the Timberwolf is an excellant blade. But has anyone tried the
Laguna re-saw king that has C-8 carbide teethe that can be sent back for
re-sharpening? Of couse it is way more than the Timberwolf but it amy be
worth the investment.
Gene

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Gene T wrote:

Hi all,
I know that the Timberwolf is an excellant blade. But has anyone tried the
Laguna re-saw king that has C-8 carbide teethe that can be sent back for
re-sharpening? Of couse it is way more than the Timberwolf but it amy be
worth the investment.
Gene


Haven't tried one myself - at over a dollar an inch as I recall, a
130"
blade would be WAY out of my price range. But Torben, the president/
founder of Laguna Tools, is a bandsaw freak and I've heard he had a
lot
of input into the development of the Resaw King (as well as LT ceramic
guides). I've seen him take paper thin slices off a block of cherry
with
a Resaw King but it could be more his technique and guides and fence
set
up than the blade he's using.

As for it being resharpenable - at what price? You might want to ask
that question of Laguna Tools. Seems it was in the 25-50 cents per
tooth range.

What are you resawing and why? Are you going to use it for production
quantity work or just occassionaly?

Michael Fortune does a lot of bandsawing - he does a lot of laminated
pieces. His recomendation is to go with the lower priced blades
and get 8 or 10 at a time. He feels that a good saw and fence set up
along with good technique is far more important than the blade's
price tag. He also goes with 1/2" blades for both laminate slicing
and thin panel slicing as well as mini-log sawing.

I've mainly used Timberwolf but less expensive blades work well
if the saw and fence are set up properly. I did have a problem with
a band that I had made up but it was a welding problem. The damn
weld failed during a cut. Took freakin' forever to get about 4 feet
of accordianed band out of the blade quard - and that was on top
of the time spent changing shorts. Thank the stars the blade
guard kept everything inside.

charlie b

I'm using a 1" Re-Saw King in a Laguna 16LT. Blade is phenomenal running in
ceramic guides. I have adjusted fence square to table and table square to
blade and get perfectly square and straight resaw cuts without having to
allow for drift. Blade leaves tooth marks that are easily removed with a
couple of light passes through a drum sander. Now I resaw all my 4/4 stock
when making 1/2" stock before taking it to the planer and save a tremendous
amount of load on the planer and dust collector. Have thin strips left for
other projects and veneers instead of woodchips. The 132" blade goes for
$198. ($1.50/inch). Sawing 1/16" veneer is not a problem. I'm going to be
trying to resaw some 1/32" maple for on of my friends who uses it for bird
feathers on his carvings.

Dave


"Gene T" wrote in message
...
Hi all,
I know that the Timberwolf is an excellant blade. But has anyone tried
the
Laguna re-saw king that has C-8 carbide teethe that can be sent back for
re-sharpening? Of couse it is way more than the Timberwolf but it amy be
worth the investment.
Gene

--





This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus software

jds wrote:

I'm using a 1" Re-Saw King in a Laguna 16LT. Blade is phenomenal running in
ceramic guides. I have adjusted fence square to table and table square to
blade and get perfectly square and straight resaw cuts without having to
allow for drift. Blade leaves tooth marks that are easily removed with a
couple of light passes through a drum sander. Now I resaw all my 4/4 stock
when making 1/2" stock before taking it to the planer and save a tremendous
amount of load on the planer and dust collector. Have thin strips left for
other projects and veneers instead of woodchips. The 132" blade goes for
$198. ($1.50/inch). Sawing 1/16" veneer is not a problem. I'm going to be
trying to resaw some 1/32" maple for on of my friends who uses it for bird
feathers on his carvings.


Sounds like the Re-Saw King you've got does what you want it to do,
the way you want to do it. And it sounds as if you've got the money
so more power to you.

For those with significantly shallower pockets who also may
use their bandsaw for all sorts of cuts - some things to think
about

- unless you plan on sawing your own boards from logs,
a wide blade isn't really necessary. While a properly
tensioned wider blade will have more beam strength
than a narrower blade, and thus resist twisting or
bending in a cut, those problems can easily be gotten
around with proper set up of a decent 1/2" blade and
good technique
- wider blades typically generate more heat in a cut
and that can a) cause burning of the wood - especially
maple and cherry and b) shorten the life of the blade
- wider blades are a bit more "fun" to put on and get
off than narrower blades. If it gets to be a chore
swapping a 1" or 1 1/4" blade when you need to
cut short radius curves that require a 1/4" or
1/2" blade for example you may just skip it and
thus not get more use of your bandsaw. That would
be a real pity because the bandsaw is such a versatile
(sp?) tool. And BTW - if you think coiling up a
half inch band is fun try coiling up a 1 1/4"
band!

Before spending a healthy chunk of change on a very
expensive blade consider making a larger bandsaw
table top and a better fence than what comes with
your saw. The fence that came with the LT16SEC
I've got was ok for cutting up 3/4" stock, ply
and 2x4s but was way too short (about 3") for
resawing. American Woodworker had a great
article on building your own top and fence. Works
great and 1/16th to 1/32" slicing is now part
of my woodworking options.

Here's some stuff about resawing - along with an
exploded view of the table top and fence that
should give you enough info to make your own.

And note that the last image on the page shows
a slice off a piece of cherry that's less than
1/16th inch thick - done with a $10 half
inch blade.

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Resawing1.html

With all of that - it WOULD be nice to have a
1/2" Re-Saw King ...

charlie b