I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu
http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar..._finishing.pdf

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

Anyone have experience with this technique? Can I just plan to use the
"encapsulated" boards as pieces of plastic and ignore issues of
cross-grain movement? Specifically, can I glue on breadboard ends
without allowance for movement? Or is the moisture imperviousness (is
that a word?) of the epoxy overstated here?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Or is the moisture imperviousness (is
that a word?) of the epoxy overstated here?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

It is totally impervious. However, the smallest crack or chip can let
the water in and then it holds it in.

You might just go whole hog and do it like a boat, get some glass
fabric and fiberglass the whole thing. You can do it so it is clear as
glass and you still see the wood.

On Sep 27, 12:41*pm, alexy wrote:

I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar...r_wood_finishi...

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

Anyone have experience with this technique? Can I just plan to use the
"encapsulated" boards as pieces of plastic and ignore issues of
cross-grain movement? Specifically, can I glue on breadboard ends
without allowance for movement? Or is the moisture imperviousness (is
that a word?) of the epoxy overstated here?

If you are meticulous in the construction, finishing and maintenance,
with no slip ups, it will last a good long time. There will be slip
ups.

Unless I had some super specific reason for taking wood and torturing
it into being something it's not, I'd use a durable, rot resistant
wood, and just plan on building it and giving it an oiled finish. It
will still take some maintenance, and so will that uv-blocking
fiberglass-protecting finish, but you'll save time and money up front.

Think Watco Teak Oil on teak. Ipe would be another species that would
work, if you want dense and hard. Redwood, cypress or cedar, in that
order, if you want a lighter softer wood. You will end up with dark
wood most likely, either due to the species or oil treatment, unless
you want to spend more time maintaining the finish to keep it bright.

It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world
should be coated in fiberglass.

R

alexy wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu
http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar..._finishing.pdf

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

You do realize, don't you, that the UV blocking finish for your purpose is
varnish? A better one is paint but that won't let the glory of natural wood
shine through. Did I mention that varnish needs fairly frequent attention
and recoating?


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote:

alexy wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu
http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar..._finishing.pdf

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

You do realize, don't you, that the UV blocking finish for your purpose is
varnish?
Yes, probably of the poly urethane variety.

A better one is paint but that won't let the glory of natural wood
shine through. Did I mention that varnish needs fairly frequent attention
and recoating?
Yeah, I'm aware that it is not permanent, but was hoping that on epoxy
it might last better than on wood that is breathing and moving.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

RicodJour wrote:

On Sep 27, 12:41*pm, alexy wrote:

I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar...r_wood_finishi...

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

Anyone have experience with this technique? Can I just plan to use the
"encapsulated" boards as pieces of plastic and ignore issues of
cross-grain movement? Specifically, can I glue on breadboard ends
without allowance for movement? Or is the moisture imperviousness (is
that a word?) of the epoxy overstated here?

If you are meticulous in the construction, finishing and maintenance,
with no slip ups, it will last a good long time. There will be slip
ups.

Unless I had some super specific reason for taking wood and torturing
it into being something it's not, I'd use a durable, rot resistant
wood, and just plan on building it and giving it an oiled finish. It
will still take some maintenance, and so will that uv-blocking
fiberglass-protecting finish, but you'll save time and money up front.

Think Watco Teak Oil on teak. Ipe would be another species that would
work, if you want dense and hard.
Thanks! I had almost forgotten about Ipe, which with an oil finish may
give me the look and limited (I realize there is no
"maintenance-free"!) maintenance that I am looking for.

Redwood, cypress or cedar, in that
order, if you want a lighter softer wood. You will end up with dark
wood most likely, either due to the species or oil treatment, unless
you want to spend more time maintaining the finish to keep it bright.

It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world
should be coated in fiberglass.

R

--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Thanks! I had almost forgotten about Ipe, which with an oil finish may
give me the look and limited (I realize there is no
"maintenance-free"!) maintenance that I am looking for.

I rebuilt some installed exterior benches in ipe for a buddies
neighbor. We showed them ipe with clear Penofin oil and they loved the
rich look. A few years now, recoated once a year and still look great
from what I hear.


It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world
should be coated in fiberglass.

Ref me????????

On Sep 27, 5:44*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

Thanks! I had almost forgotten about Ipe, which with an oil finish may
give me the look and limited (I realize there is no
"maintenance-free"!) maintenance that I am looking for.

I rebuilt some installed exterior benches in ipe for a buddies
neighbor. We showed them ipe with clear Penofin oil and they loved the
rich look. A few years now, recoated once a year and still look great
from what I hear.

It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world
should be coated in fiberglass.

Ref me????????

Is that reference me, as in cite? Refresh me, as in what the hell are
you talking about? Something else? I'll go with #2. The OP wrote:

"http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrary/literature/
Outdoor_wood_finishi...

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish. "

Hence my reply. It's not surprising that the manufacturer finds their
products perfect for everything - for example Nabisco and Ritz mock-
apple pie. Everything's better when it sits on a Ritz.

I'm actually surprised that the System Three people didn't suggest
building a form with epoxy, pulling a mold from a piece of wood, then
discarding the wood and replicating all of the pieces in
fiberglass.

R

You can use an base paint without the color added. Some of them are
practically clear and UV protected. Saw it in a mag a while back.



On 9/27/2011 4:08 PM, dadiOH wrote:
alexy wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu
http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar..._finishing.pdf

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

You do realize, don't you, that the UV blocking finish for your purpose is
varnish? A better one is paint but that won't let the glory of natural wood
shine through. Did I mention that varnish needs fairly frequent attention
and recoating?

It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world
should be coated in fiberglass.

Ref me????????

Is that reference me, as in cite? *Refresh me, as in what the hell are
you talking about? *Something else? *I'll go with #2. *The OP wrote:

I was just wondering if you were referencing me as a fiberglass
manufacturer who wanted to fiberglass the world. I will be
fiberglassing my Chriscraft knock off at some future point in my life
but for now I am in the software and wood furniture/products
business'.

On Tue, 27 Sep 2011 17:20:20 -0400, alexy wrote:

RicodJour wrote:

On Sep 27, 12:41*pm, alexy wrote:

I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to
refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar...r_wood_finishi...

In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final
assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and
applying a uv-blocking final finish.

Anyone have experience with this technique? Can I just plan to use the
"encapsulated" boards as pieces of plastic and ignore issues of
cross-grain movement? Specifically, can I glue on breadboard ends
without allowance for movement? Or is the moisture imperviousness (is
that a word?) of the epoxy overstated here?

If you are meticulous in the construction, finishing and maintenance,
with no slip ups, it will last a good long time. There will be slip
ups.

Unless I had some super specific reason for taking wood and torturing
it into being something it's not, I'd use a durable, rot resistant
wood, and just plan on building it and giving it an oiled finish. It
will still take some maintenance, and so will that uv-blocking
fiberglass-protecting finish, but you'll save time and money up front.

Think Watco Teak Oil on teak. Ipe would be another species that would
work, if you want dense and hard.
Thanks! I had almost forgotten about Ipe, which with an oil finish may
give me the look and limited (I realize there is no
"maintenance-free"!) maintenance that I am looking for.

Just remember that when you do timely maintenance, y'know, before the
"it really -needs- it" stage, it takes far less time than to refinish
something completely.

I used Watco finish on Mom's entry door (west-facing but sheltered
from the rain) and I'd spend 15-30 minutes twice a year on it to keep
it looking truly sharp. Watco isn't rated for outdoor use, either.

Watco Teak Oil, or Penofin Red, on Ipe (or $-teak-$) would be my
choice, too.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

"alexy" wrote:

I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not
want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want
to
refinish every year.
-----------------------------
You can't get there from here.

A high performance coating will require at least annual maintenance.
--------------------------------------
I am intrigued by the technique described in this
brochu
http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar..._finishing.pdf
------------------------------------
As mentioned in another post, does a great job if you are willing to
invest the time and money to do it.
-----------------------------------

Specifically, can I glue on breadboard ends
without allowance for movement?
------------------------------------
Why would you use bread board ends on an outdoor table?

IMHO, that would be a disaster waiting to happen.
----------------------------------
BTW, any fastners should be bronze.

Bolts with washers and nuts preferred.


Have fun.

Lew

On Sep 27, 6:52*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world
should be coated in fiberglass.

Ref me????????

Is that reference me, as in cite? *Refresh me, as in what the hell are
you talking about? *Something else? *I'll go with #2. *The OP wrote:

I was just wondering if you were referencing me as a fiberglass
manufacturer who wanted to fiberglass the world. I will be
fiberglassing my Chriscraft knock off at some future point in my life
but for now I am in the software and wood furniture/products
business'.

Nope, I had no idea what you did other than the furniture kits that
you had posted about. I was simply saying it's no surprise that a
manufacturer thinks their products should be everywhere, and please
buy them!

What's this ChrisCraft knockoff you mentioned? How big and where was
it made?

R

What's this ChrisCraft knockoff you mentioned? *How big and where was
it made?

R

It is all a dream for right now. Haven't decided what to build first
but I will eventually build a Miss Chris 28' (see link to plans
below). This Cold-Mold building process is really cool and then
planked over with Mohag.
http://www.boatdesigns.com/Inboards/departments/9/

On Sep 28, 1:56*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

It is all a dream for right now. Haven't decided what to build first
but I will eventually build a Miss Chris 28' (see link to plans
below). This Cold-Mold building process is really cool and then
planked over with Mohag. http://www.boatdesigns.com/Inboards/departments/9/

Well, hell, yes. That really would be a nice boat to tool around in.
The American version of some of those old Rivieras.

R