I know we've got a few model railroaders in here, so I'd like to share the
results of my latest experiment. I made a building "box" out of wood and
used the wood as a guide for attaching styrene to make the building. That
worked reasonably well, but the roof still had to be built from scratch.

In a related experiment, I made an 8x12 shed with gambrel style roof. That
took a little more woodworking, but now I've got a decent looking shed that
only took a bit of time to make. For a siding effect, I used a balsa
stripper to etch lines to represent wood siding.

So a quick finishing question: If I shellac the wood before painting, are
the grain lines less likely to show through the paint? I'm using cheap
craft paint (Apple Barrel Colors that Walmart used to sell for $.50 a
bottle) and pine. It took about 3 coats for the grain lines to be
sufficiently hidden.

Puckdropper

On 21 Sep 2011 13:39:37 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I know we've got a few model railroaders in here, so I'd like to share the
results of my latest experiment. I made a building "box" out of wood and
used the wood as a guide for attaching styrene to make the building. That
worked reasonably well, but the roof still had to be built from scratch.

In a related experiment, I made an 8x12 shed with gambrel style roof. That
took a little more woodworking, but now I've got a decent looking shed that
only took a bit of time to make. For a siding effect, I used a balsa
stripper to etch lines to represent wood siding.

So a quick finishing question: If I shellac the wood before painting, are
the grain lines less likely to show through the paint? I'm using cheap
craft paint (Apple Barrel Colors that Walmart used to sell for $.50 a
bottle) and pine. It took about 3 coats for the grain lines to be
sufficiently hidden.

Puckdropper

Have you considered SealCoat? It may take a couple of coats to fill in the
grain, but it does dry fairly quickly.
__________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

So a quick finishing question: If I shellac the wood before painting, are
the grain lines less likely to show through the paint? *I'm using cheap
craft paint (Apple Barrel Colors that Walmart used to sell for $.50 a
bottle) and pine. *It took about 3 coats for the grain lines to be
sufficiently hidden.

Puckdropper

If painting any wood and want a smooth finish you should use a primer
and sand lighjtly. BIN is shellac based, is thick and builds well and
sand easy. I use it to get baby butt smooth finish on any reasonably
low textured grain wood.

On Sep 21, 9:39*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I know we've got a few model railroaders in here, so I'd like to share the
results of my latest experiment. *I made a building "box" out of wood and
used the wood as a guide for attaching styrene to make the building. *That
worked reasonably well, but the roof still had to be built from scratch.

In a related experiment, I made an 8x12 shed with gambrel style roof. *That
took a little more woodworking, but now I've got a decent looking shed that
only took a bit of time to make. *For a siding effect, I used a balsa
stripper to etch lines to represent wood siding.

So a quick finishing question: If I shellac the wood before painting, are
the grain lines less likely to show through the paint? *I'm using cheap
craft paint (Apple Barrel Colors that Walmart used to sell for $.50 a
bottle) and pine. *It took about 3 coats for the grain lines to be
sufficiently hidden.

Puckdropper

Folkart acrylics cover well for the price, especially the
exterior line.

Automotive spray primer, red, white, or gray, whatever's
closest to your topcoat color. I've gotten red to cover
red Rustoleum metal primer in one coat. That's usually
a 4 coat job, minimum.