Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

On Sep 14, 6:01*pm, Dave Balderstone
wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International *50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! *sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

Congratulations!! Those General people stay on top of things are are
very pleasant to dealt with.

On 9/14/2011 5:01 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

---
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/ewoodshop

In article , Swingman
wrote:

On 9/14/2011 5:01 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

She's assembled and aligned, but I have to rewire for 115 or run a 230
line to the shop... Dang. Wanted to make that first cut tonight.

But she's a thing of beauty. Christened "Babe".

"Dave Balderstone" wrote:

Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur
and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.
--------------------------------
Congrats.
----------------------------------

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do
a
fireplace mantle for him...
-----------------------------
Take a look at Norm's project on NYW.

Think you will like it.

Lew

On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:11:10 -0500, Swingman wrote:
One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

Considering the amout of money you spend on Festool products, I'd have
thought that you'd have gone for a Canadian made General, not an
international made one.

On 9/14/2011 11:39 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Swingman
wrote:

On 9/14/2011 5:01 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

She's assembled and aligned, but I have to rewire for 115 or run a 230
line to the shop... Dang. Wanted to make that first cut tonight.

But she's a thing of beauty. Christened "Babe".

I wo0led strongly recommend going with 230.

In article , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 9/14/2011 11:39 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Swingman
wrote:

On 9/14/2011 5:01 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

She's assembled and aligned, but I have to rewire for 115 or run a 230
line to the shop... Dang. Wanted to make that first cut tonight.

But she's a thing of beauty. Christened "Babe".

I wo0led strongly recommend going with 230.

What are the pros and cons, Leon?

On 9/15/11 12:34 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 9/14/2011 11:39 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Swingman
wrote:

On 9/14/2011 5:01 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

She's assembled and aligned, but I have to rewire for 115 or run a 230
line to the shop... Dang. Wanted to make that first cut tonight.

But she's a thing of beauty. Christened "Babe".

I wo0led strongly recommend going with 230.

What are the pros and cons, Leon?

Depending on your existing wiring, you may be able to switch to 230 for
that circuit fairly easily (you did plan a separate circuit for the TS
anyway right?). You only need two conductors plus ground, swap the
outlet and the breaker, and mark the white with red marker or tape or
both on both *ends* and you could be good to go.

Basically it buys you efficiency, less power loss on the circuit equals
faster cleaner starts, the doubling of the voltage will also cut the
current in approximately half, what is the HP of the motor and what
gauge wire is there for the circuit.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 9/15/2011 1:13 AM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:11:10 -0500, wrote:
One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

Considering the amout of money you spend on Festool products, I'd have
thought that you'd have gone for a Canadian made General, not an
international made one.


They are the same company, or used to be, and their 650, the table saw I
would buy, is indeed Canadian made.

And yes, I do know the difference with the "international" part and
should have left it out ... my fingers are faster than my mind these days

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/ewoodshop

On Sep 15, 1:17*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 9/15/2011 1:13 AM, Dave wrote:

On Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:11:10 -0500, *wrote:
One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

Considering the amout of money you spend on Festool products, I'd have
thought that you'd have gone for a Canadian made General, not an
international made one.

They are the same company, or used to be, and their 650, the table saw I
would buy, is indeed Canadian made.

And yes, I do know the difference with the "international" part and
should have left it out ... my fingers are faster than my mind these days

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/ewoodshop

The people at General are VERY fussy about what is shipped from Asia.
A lot of stuff available to them from Chaiwan simply won't do.
Contrary to popular belief, I think you'll agree, the Taiwanese, for
example, DO know how to make good stuff, you just have to stay on top
of them to make sure they do... sortakinda like Detroit. All kinds of
sjit came out of Detroit for the longest time, till Ford figured out
that it wasn't working for them. I gave a friend's new Taurus the once-
over and the Germans better start paying attention as it was clear
that the short relationship with Volvo reaped Ford a lot of benefit.
Doors that go 'click' instead of 'boing' 5 star collision ratings, not
a hint of orange peel in the paint job, and an interior that just felt
right. Nice work.

That 650 is a SAW! Hell, that thing passes the nickel test while the
saw is in the truck during shipment! G

They also make a pretty nice router. (Typical for them, they opted for
the Italian Elte spindle, 220v 3ø when they could have bought
Chaiwanese versions for half the price...just didn't measure up.)

On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 12:17:41 -0500, Swingman wrote:

They are the same company, or used to be, and their 650, the table saw I
would buy, is indeed Canadian made.

That's the saw I'll buy the same day I find an accessible workshop to
rent or share. Only my 650 will be the 'Access' version which is
shortened for height.

In article , FrozenNorth
wrote:

Depending on your existing wiring, you may be able to switch to 230 for
that circuit fairly easily (you did plan a separate circuit for the TS
anyway right?). You only need two conductors plus ground, swap the
outlet and the breaker, and mark the white with red marker or tape or
both on both *ends* and you could be good to go.

Basically it buys you efficiency, less power loss on the circuit equals
faster cleaner starts, the doubling of the voltage will also cut the
current in approximately half, what is the HP of the motor and what
gauge wire is there for the circuit.

Have the breaker installed and one end of the wire in the panel. Will
run the line to the shop after the dog gets walked and supper is done.

230 ii is.

On 9/15/2011 11:34 AM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 9/14/2011 11:39 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Swingman
wrote:

On 9/14/2011 5:01 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
Just took delivery of a General International 50-200R table saur and
17" drill press. New lathe coming in a cupla weeks.

I'm all teary-eyed. The first REAL saur I've ever owned! sniff...

And to top it off, one of the movers who delivered it wants me to do a
fireplace mantle for him...

One of the best. I've often thought that if something happened to my
Unisaw, a General International would be my next table saw.

She's assembled and aligned, but I have to rewire for 115 or run a 230
line to the shop... Dang. Wanted to make that first cut tonight.

But she's a thing of beauty. Christened "Babe".

I wo0led strongly recommend going with 230.

What are the pros and cons, Leon?


Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy
cutting, less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available
energy for the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.

"Leon" wrote

Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy cutting,
less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available energy for
the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.

Another Pro argument is that once you install some kind of 230 capability in
your shop, you have it available for other tools. You won't be as limited
in your choices for tools. Anything with any kind of serious motor will
require the higher voltage. You may find a good deal from a shop shutting
down or upgrading their tools.

I know that is the slippery slope argument. You open the door with one
higher voltage tool and then...

On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:56:52 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Leon" wrote

Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy cutting,
less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available energy for
the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.

Another Pro argument is that once you install some kind of 230 capability in
your shop, you have it available for other tools. You won't be as limited
in your choices for tools. Anything with any kind of serious motor will
require the higher voltage. You may find a good deal from a shop shutting
down or upgrading their tools.

I know that is the slippery slope argument. You open the door with one
higher voltage tool and then...

Another pro with the 240v (Please, guys!) tools is that not everyone
has 240 so used tools sometimes go for cheaper prices than 120v tools.

_Just_go_with_240v_!

It cost me under $100 to wire in 3 40A circuits in my shop, including
romex, 25' extension cord wire for each of 3 tools, 3 twistlock L6-20
outlets, and 3 L6-20 plugs. I had spare breakers due to removing
baseboard heaters (Ick! Pffffffft!) when I went with a 96% efficient
forced-air HVAC system. Gawd, what a difference in comfort!

--
Self-development is a higher duty than self-sacrifice.
-- Elizabeth Cady Stanton

On 9/16/2011 12:36 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:56:52 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Leon" wrote

Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy cutting,
less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available energy for
the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.

Another Pro argument is that once you install some kind of 230 capability in
your shop, you have it available for other tools. You won't be as limited
in your choices for tools. Anything with any kind of serious motor will
require the higher voltage. You may find a good deal from a shop shutting
down or upgrading their tools.

I know that is the slippery slope argument. You open the door with one
higher voltage tool and then...

Another pro with the 240v (Please, guys!) tools is that not everyone
has 240 so used tools sometimes go for cheaper prices than 120v tools.

_Just_go_with_240v_!

It cost me under $100 to wire in 3 40A circuits in my shop, including
romex, 25' extension cord wire for each of 3 tools, 3 twistlock L6-20
outlets, and 3 L6-20 plugs. I had spare breakers due to removing
baseboard heaters (Ick!



Pffffffft!) when I went with a 96% efficient
forced-air HVAC system. Gawd, what a difference in comfort!

Sounds great!

::: jealous ::: |:_ _ _ _ _ |



--
Self-development is a higher duty than self-sacrifice.
-- Elizabeth Cady Stanton

On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 12:47:02 -0400, Bill
wrote:

On 9/16/2011 12:36 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:56:52 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Leon" wrote

Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy cutting,
less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available energy for
the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.

Another Pro argument is that once you install some kind of 230 capability in
your shop, you have it available for other tools. You won't be as limited
in your choices for tools. Anything with any kind of serious motor will
require the higher voltage. You may find a good deal from a shop shutting
down or upgrading their tools.

I know that is the slippery slope argument. You open the door with one
higher voltage tool and then...

Another pro with the 240v (Please, guys!) tools is that not everyone
has 240 so used tools sometimes go for cheaper prices than 120v tools.

_Just_go_with_240v_!

It cost me under $100 to wire in 3 40A circuits in my shop, including
romex, 25' extension cord wire for each of 3 tools, 3 twistlock L6-20
outlets, and 3 L6-20 plugs. I had spare breakers due to removing
baseboard heaters (Ick!



Pffffffft!) when I went with a 96% efficient
forced-air HVAC system. Gawd, what a difference in comfort!

Sounds great!

The old baseboard crap left stratified air in the winter:

My feet were at 55F and freezing.
My knees were at 62F and cold.
My butt was at 70F and jusssssssssssst right.
My head was at 85F and sweating.
The ceiling was hot enough to fry eggs on. (Just try it.)
And the electric bill was higher than a mortgage. (If I had one.)
It was the most gawdawful mess I've ever felt.


::: jealous ::: |:_ _ _ _ _ |

I had about a $20k difference between the sale price of the flop house
in CA and the new dump in OR. I purchased all new kitchen appliances,
installed a new countertop (formica, my fave), bought new washer,
dryer, dual-glazed windows, house paint, and a $6k HVAC system.
Poof! Broke again. :-/

--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson

In article , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy
cutting, less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available
energy for the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.


Wired in, and running on 240... Passes the nickel test. First cut was
to rip some 4/4 cedar. Beautiful smell, lovely cut.

happy

Now to set up the new drill press!

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

It cost me under $100 to wire in 3 40A circuits in my shop, including
romex, 25' extension cord wire for each of 3 tools, 3 twistlock L6-20
outlets, and 3 L6-20 plugs.

Cost me about $75 Canuck bux, but $24 of that was for the friggin'
breaker!

On 9/16/2011 5:02 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Pro, Faster motor starts, Less strain on the motor during heavy
cutting, less voltage drop during heavy cutting. Plenty of available
energy for the motor. This all assuming you go with the 20+ amps.

Con, You will need 230 to run it, where ever you are, Initial set up
more expensive.


Wired in, and running on 240... Passes the nickel test. First cut was
to rip some 4/4 cedar. Beautiful smell, lovely cut.

You are really going to like it when you rip something hard, like oak or
maple.


happy

Now to set up the new drill press!


Oh! You are going to want to wire that for 480. ;~)