I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little?
Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little,
but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks.

--
Paul

Have you thought about spraying it on?

How big is your area that you are using this on.
Are you applying indoors or Out? Can you bring it in to cooler temps.

Shellac like lacquer will haze in humidity I assume you know that.
On lacquers I use a retarder to slow down if its hot or hazy, but I have
never done that to shellac.

Try going to an auto paint store and getting a retarder for lacquer, and
test a spot... See if it helps.



On 9/10/2011 1:29 PM, Paul wrote:
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So
fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to
dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time
a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up
helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in
the day. Thanks.

"Paul" wrote in :

I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So
fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting
to dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying
time a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat
up helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later
in the day. Thanks.

Look up on Google for better hints than this. Shellac dissolves in
ethanol. EtOH (CH3-CH2OH) evaporates rather fast. To slow this, try to
add some propanol (CH3-CH2-CH2OH), or isopropanol (CH3-CHOH-CH3). Longer
and/or more complex carbon backbone makes for higher boiling point, less
evaporation. Also diluting with EtOH or (iso)propanol, especialy for a
first sealer coat, makes things easier to apply.

See also the Bible:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/shellac.htm

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 10:29:58 -0700, "Paul" wrote:

I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little?
Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little,
but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks.

A few years ago I posted this tip under the title "shellac blasphemy"
and got blown out of cyberspace by this group, but I swear it works.

I was using shellac on a large surface area (built-in desk/workspace),
and it became a huge PITA applying the shellac by brush. I found that
using a 4-inch wide high density foam roller worked exceptionally
well. I could apply a coat of Zinsser's shellac over ~40 sq ft in 5
mins or less, keeping the "wet edge" concept intact. There was a
slight orange peel effect that sanded out every 2-3 coats easily. And
I could put on 6-8 coats a day.

But you have to test the batch of shellac to see if the alcohol
denaturing agent is compatible with the foam roller. Some denaturants
e.g. MEK, benzene, &tc. will dissolve the foam and make a huge mess.
All I kniw is that it worked REALLY well for me.

-Zz

On 9/10/2011 12:29 PM, Paul wrote:
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So
fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to
dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time
a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up
helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in
the day. Thanks.

Any time you pad shellac you obviously need to do small areas.

On hot humid days I spray a 1 1/2# cut shellac, cut with 99% isopropyl
alcohol to retard the tendency to blush.

Might want to give that a try. You should be able to get it at any pharmacy.

IME, do NOT use the isopropyl "rubbing alcohol" as it has a higher water
content.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Thanks guys. Maybe I ought to just go back to the spray laquer I was using
on my little blocks of wood. Haven't had a problem with that.

Paul

On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 10:29:58 -0700, "Paul" wrote:

I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little?
Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little,
but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks.

1) Switch from denatured alcohol to isopropyl alcohol.
It dries more slowly.

2) Finish in the early morning, when the humidity is higher and the
temperature is lower.

3) Switch from shellac to Waterlox. (Sorry, had to do it.

--
Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power.
-- Seneca

On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 14:54:41 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 9/10/2011 12:29 PM, Paul wrote:
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So
fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to
dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time
a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up
helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in
the day. Thanks.

Any time you pad shellac you obviously need to do small areas.

On hot humid days I spray a 1 1/2# cut shellac, cut with 99% isopropyl
alcohol to retard the tendency to blush.

Do you get any blushing on cool, humid mornings?


Might want to give that a try. You should be able to get it at any pharmacy.

IME, do NOT use the isopropyl "rubbing alcohol" as it has a higher water
content.

Yeah, he wants to avoid the pharmacy. http://shellac.net/faq.html

--
Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power.
-- Seneca

"Paul" wrote:

I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast.
So fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before
starting to dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to
retard drying time a little?
----------------------------------------
Buy a gallon of denatured alcohol and cut the shellac to 1 pound cut.

You will find the shellac/alcohol ratio on side of shellac can.

I use a throw away chip brush to apply.

Have fun.

Lew

On Sep 10, 3:54*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 9/10/2011 12:29 PM, Paul wrote:

I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So
fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to
dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time
a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up
helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in
the day. Thanks.

Any time you pad shellac you obviously need to do small areas.

On hot humid days I spray a 1 1/2# cut shellac, cut with 99% isopropyl
alcohol to retard the tendency to blush.

Might want to give that a try. You should be able to get it at any pharmacy.

IME, do NOT use the isopropyl "rubbing alcohol" as it has a higher water
content.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Not to mention 'rubbing alcohol' often has lanolin (sheep's fat) in it
as well.
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
I said not to mention it.

On Sep 10, 1:29*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little?
Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little,
but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks.

--
Paul

Work fast and let the shellac have time to dry hard between
coats. Giveaway is bits of lint from the rag in your shellac.
A couple of drops of mineral, olive, or walnut oil on
the pad will stop it from sticking. Ridges or other defects
can be wet sanded out easily with 320 and paint thinner.

"Paul" wrote in message
...
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a
little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a
little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day.
Thanks.


I've been down that path... I finally started putting it on the surface with
a plastic pipette (think small turkey baster --
http://www.amazon.com/3ml-Plastic-Tr.../dp/B00207CO7I ) and
then brushing it quickly. This allows me to get it on fast so there is
always a wet edge and no stop/start overlaps along the length. I doubt if
you'll find this technique in any books... it's along the lines of pouring
wipe on poly on the surface and then wiping. ;~)

John

In article
,
Father Haskell wrote:

On Sep 10, 1:29*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little?
Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little,
but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks.

--
Paul

Work fast and let the shellac have time to dry hard between
coats. Giveaway is bits of lint from the rag in your shellac.
A couple of drops of mineral, olive, or walnut oil on
the pad will stop it from sticking. Ridges or other defects
can be wet sanded out easily with 320 and paint thinner.


Didn't O'Deen post a link to a video a few years back of him padding
shellac onto a mantel (or table top)?

Anyone have a URL?

On 9/10/2011 2:59 PM, Han wrote:
wrote in :

I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So
fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting
to dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying
time a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat
up helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later
in the day. Thanks.

See also the Bible:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/shellac.htm

Here's what the "bible" has to say:

Dissolve dry shellac flakes in denatured ethanol, which is sold in most
paint stores. It also dissolves in methanol, butyl and propyl alcohol.
Methanol will evaporate the quickest, followed by ethanol, butyl and
propyl alcohol. The last two alcohols, butyl and propyl can be added to
shellac dissolved in ethanol in small amounts to act as retarders, which
make the shellac stay wet longer for better application (like brushing).
Lacquer retarder can also be used. I do not recommend using methanol as
a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books,
methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but its
use is discouraged.


--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

Jack Stein wrote in :

I do not recommend using methanol as
a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books,
methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but its
use is discouraged.

Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with ethanol.
Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it appropriately. I used to
work with mixtures of MeOH, chloroform, ammonia (or acetic acid), and water
as solvent for chromatography. Maybe that's why I'm the way I am now, but
otherwise ...

My probem with methanol is that I needed it for something woodworking after
I retired, and here in NJ I can't seem to fid a store that sells it.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Strange places like big box stores - aka - Home Depot, Lowe's and the
corner hardware / lumber yard. Now for the strangest - Pharmacy and
maybe an auto part store.

Martin

On 9/11/2011 1:45 PM, Han wrote:
Jack wrote in :

I do not recommend using methanol as
a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books,
methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but its
use is discouraged.

Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with ethanol.
Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it appropriately. I used to
work with mixtures of MeOH, chloroform, ammonia (or acetic acid), and water
as solvent for chromatography. Maybe that's why I'm the way I am now, but
otherwise ...

My probem with methanol is that I needed it for something woodworking after
I retired, and here in NJ I can't seem to fid a store that sells it.

On 9/11/2011 2:45 PM, Han wrote:
Jack Stein wrote:

I do not recommend using methanol as
a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books,
methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but its
use is discouraged.

Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with ethanol.
Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it appropriately.

I thought that was a bit strange myself. Lots of solvents are toxic. I
wouldn't recommend drinking lacquer thinner, for example.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

I used to
work with mixtures of MeOH, chloroform, ammonia (or acetic acid), and water
as solvent for chromatography. Maybe that's why I'm the way I am now, but
otherwise ...

My probem with methanol is that I needed it for something woodworking after
I retired, and here in NJ I can't seem to fid a store that sells it.

Jack Stein wrote in
:

On 9/11/2011 2:45 PM, Han wrote:
Jack Stein wrote:

I do not recommend using methanol as
a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books,
methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but
its use is discouraged.

Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with
ethanol. Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it
appropriately.

I thought that was a bit strange myself. Lots of solvents are toxic.
I wouldn't recommend drinking lacquer thinner, for example.

Yes. Even water is toxic. Someone I know was drinking too much water,
resulting in an electrolyte imbalance. Not good. But he's doing very well
now, thank you.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:

Jack Stein wrote in
:

On 9/11/2011 2:45 PM, Han wrote:
Jack Stein wrote:

I do not recommend using methanol as
a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books,
methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but
its use is discouraged.

Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with
ethanol. Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it
appropriately.

I thought that was a bit strange myself. Lots of solvents are toxic.
I wouldn't recommend drinking lacquer thinner, for example.

Yes. Even water is toxic.

Has probably caused more deaths due to inhalation than all other
solvents combined!
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

On 9/12/2011 11:06 AM, Han wrote:
Jack Stein wrote in

Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with
ethanol. Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it
appropriately.

I thought that was a bit strange myself. Lots of solvents are toxic.
I wouldn't recommend drinking lacquer thinner, for example.

Yes. Even water is toxic. Someone I know was drinking too much water,
resulting in an electrolyte imbalance. Not good. But he's doing very well
now, thank you.

Next time mix a little alcohol with it, but stay away from the Meth:-)

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On Sep 11, 2:32*am, Dave Balderstone
wrote:
In article
,









Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 10, 1:29*pm, "Paul" wrote:
I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast
in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry,
making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little?
Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little,
but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks..

--
Paul

Work fast and let the shellac have time to dry hard between
coats. *Giveaway is bits of lint from the rag in your shellac.
A couple of drops of mineral, olive, or walnut oil on
the pad will stop it from sticking. *Ridges or other defects
can be wet sanded out easily with 320 and paint thinner.

Didn't O'Deen post a link to a video a few years back of him padding
shellac onto a mantel (or table top)?

Anyone have a URL?

Look up any French polishing site. Only difference
is padding uses a heavier cut and more of it.

In article ,
Han wrote:
...snipped...
Yes. Even water is toxic. Someone I know was drinking too much water,
resulting in an electrolyte imbalance. Not good. But he's doing very well
now, thank you.

--

It's a certain conclusion that water is toxic. All fish eventually die, after all.


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org