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Default New hardwood floor questions

I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine stains
everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were rugs on top of
the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went through the rugs to the
hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle way of getting rid of lots of cat
urine stains and smell, it looks like I am going to have to rip up the
existing old hardwood floors to get rid of the smell.

If I go that route, I want to put new 3/4-inch hardwood down -- not Pergo,
laminate, vinyl, etc.

My questions are related to what type of hardwood to get.

I was thinking of maybe putting down pre-finished 3/4-inch hardwood -- such
as Bruce prefinished hardwood. But, my concern about that is that the
prefinished "colors" are apparently a stain and finish -- so if the floor
gets scratched or damaged in the future (hopefully not by cat urine), I
would need to sand out the damaged area and then have to figure out how to
match the stain so the color would match. Instead, I was wondering if there
is some particular type of finished or unfinished hardwood floor that would
look good with just a clear polyurethane finish. That way, to repair any
damage, I could sand it out and apply a clear finish again and hopefully
that would match the original finish.

If I go with that approach, is there any particular type of hardwood
flooring that I should consider getting -- oak, maple, something else? --
either finished or unfinished?

NOTE: I posted this on the alt.home.repair newsgroup earlier today but
later thought that this group may also be a good place to get feedback and
ideas on this.


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Default New hardwood floor questions

On 9/09/11 7:14 PM, RogerT wrote:
I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine stains
everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were rugs on top of
the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went through the rugs to the
hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle way of getting rid of lots of cat
urine stains and smell, it looks like I am going to have to rip up the
existing old hardwood floors to get rid of the smell.

If I go that route, I want to put new 3/4-inch hardwood down -- not Pergo,
laminate, vinyl, etc.

My questions are related to what type of hardwood to get.

I was thinking of maybe putting down pre-finished 3/4-inch hardwood -- such
as Bruce prefinished hardwood. But, my concern about that is that the
prefinished "colors" are apparently a stain and finish -- so if the floor
gets scratched or damaged in the future (hopefully not by cat urine), I
would need to sand out the damaged area and then have to figure out how to
match the stain so the color would match. Instead, I was wondering if there
is some particular type of finished or unfinished hardwood floor that would
look good with just a clear polyurethane finish. That way, to repair any
damage, I could sand it out and apply a clear finish again and hopefully
that would match the original finish.

If I go with that approach, is there any particular type of hardwood
flooring that I should consider getting -- oak, maple, something else? --
either finished or unfinished?

NOTE: I posted this on the alt.home.repair newsgroup earlier today but
later thought that this group may also be a good place to get feedback
and ideas on this.


Go to a real flooring company, my house (built in 52) had hardwood
throughout, living room was covered in orange shag carpet when we bought
it. Needless to say the shag left as our first reno, called in a
sanding guy, stained oak underneath, sanded down and a natural clear
urethane finish. That was over 14 years ago, we still love it.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
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Default New hardwood floor questions



"RogerT" wrote in message ...

I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine stains
everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were rugs on top of
the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went through the rugs to the
hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle way of getting rid of lots of cat
urine stains and smell, it looks like I am going to have to rip up the
existing old hardwood floors to get rid of the smell.

If I go that route, I want to put new 3/4-inch hardwood down -- not Pergo,
laminate, vinyl, etc.

My questions are related to what type of hardwood to get.

I was thinking of maybe putting down pre-finished 3/4-inch hardwood -- such
as Bruce prefinished hardwood. But, my concern about that is that the
prefinished "colors" are apparently a stain and finish -- so if the floor
gets scratched or damaged in the future (hopefully not by cat urine), I
would need to sand out the damaged area and then have to figure out how to
match the stain so the color would match. Instead, I was wondering if there
is some particular type of finished or unfinished hardwood floor that would
look good with just a clear polyurethane finish. That way, to repair any
damage, I could sand it out and apply a clear finish again and hopefully
that would match the original finish.

If I go with that approach, is there any particular type of hardwood
flooring that I should consider getting -- oak, maple, something else? --
either finished or unfinished?

===================

Forget the new hardwood. If the hardwood is fastened firmly yet get a pro
and sand the wood down, stain and urethane with about 3-4 coats.

I had an old floor that had been water damaged by the open windows and the
previous owner was insane and used a million pieces of carpet from 9x12'
down to 1 inch square and stapled every one down to the oak flooring. He
duplicated this underneath with matching pieces of underlay. What a mess.
The cracks seemed to be black and open up to 1/4" in the water damaged
areas.

I had a guy come in and redo the whole thing for around $200 about 20 years
back and I wouldn't trade the quality of my prefinished Tigerwood hardwood
floor for it. The thing looked flawless when it was done and every crack was
sealed up without a trace of water damage. I wouldn't attempt a sanding job
like this on my own. This guy knew how to use the various screens and
control that machine flawlessly. For a dark oak stain to not show a scratch
is impressive.

Now the whole thing squeeked and popped before this job but some PL-400
forced up between the plywood and the joists from underneath with the wife
rocking her weight back and forth on the floor above to work the adhesive
into the joints made this floor a rock solid work of art when it was done.

Usually there is a reason to use 3/4" oak in the first place. It can be
refinished a few times.

--

Eric

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Default New hardwood floor questions

On Fri, 9 Sep 2011 23:05:35 -0400, "Eric"
Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine stains
everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were rugs on top of
the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went through the rugs to the
hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle way of getting rid of lots of cat
urine stains and smell, it looks like I am going to have to rip up the
existing old hardwood floors to get rid of the smell.


There are chemicals available that can break up the enzymes from cat
urine.
http://www.amazon.com/Urine-Off-Cat-...5430190&sr=1-1
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Default New hardwood floor questions

RogerT wrote:
I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine
stains everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were
rugs on top of the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went
through the rugs to the hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle
way of getting rid of lots of cat urine stains and smell, it looks
like I am going to have to rip up the existing old hardwood floors to
get rid of the smell.
If I go that route, I want to put new 3/4-inch hardwood down -- not
Pergo, laminate, vinyl, etc.

My questions are related to what type of hardwood to get.

I was thinking of maybe putting down pre-finished 3/4-inch hardwood
-- such as Bruce prefinished hardwood. But, my concern about that is
that the prefinished "colors" are apparently a stain and finish -- so
if the floor gets scratched or damaged in the future (hopefully not
by cat urine), I would need to sand out the damaged area and then
have to figure out how to match the stain so the color would match.
Instead, I was wondering if there is some particular type of finished
or unfinished hardwood floor that would look good with just a clear
polyurethane finish. That way, to repair any damage, I could sand it
out and apply a clear finish again and hopefully that would match the
original finish.


Skip stain, any hardwood will look great without it...hickory, maple, oak,
walnut, etc. The imports too...mahogany, jatoba, etc. However, any wood
changes color with exposure to light over time so that means if a repair
requires sanding wood the repair will be visible for a while. For that
matter, the finish itself changes color. Nevertheless, I think it best to
use solid, unfinished wood as you won't be able to nail it so boards are
flush with each other, you need to sand them flush.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico





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Default New hardwood floor questions

On 9/10/2011 8:10 AM, dadiOH wrote:
RogerT wrote:
I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine
stains everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were
rugs on top of the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went
through the rugs to the hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle
way of getting rid of lots of cat urine stains and smell, it looks
like I am going to have to rip up the existing old hardwood floors to
get rid of the smell.
If I go that route, I want to put new 3/4-inch hardwood down -- not
Pergo, laminate, vinyl, etc.

My questions are related to what type of hardwood to get.

I was thinking of maybe putting down pre-finished 3/4-inch hardwood
-- such as Bruce prefinished hardwood. But, my concern about that is
that the prefinished "colors" are apparently a stain and finish -- so
if the floor gets scratched or damaged in the future (hopefully not
by cat urine), I would need to sand out the damaged area and then
have to figure out how to match the stain so the color would match.
Instead, I was wondering if there is some particular type of finished
or unfinished hardwood floor that would look good with just a clear
polyurethane finish. That way, to repair any damage, I could sand it
out and apply a clear finish again and hopefully that would match the
original finish.


Skip stain, any hardwood will look great without it...hickory, maple, oak,
walnut, etc. The imports too...mahogany, jatoba, etc. However, any wood
changes color with exposure to light over time so that means if a repair
requires sanding wood the repair will be visible for a while. For that
matter, the finish itself changes color. Nevertheless, I think it best to
use solid, unfinished wood as you won't be able to nail it so boards are
flush with each other, you need to sand them flush.


Totally agree with skipping getting or adding a stain. Stain simply
adds a consistent color that hides the subtle beauty of the wood. IMHO
you might as well paint the floor if going for a stain.

I would however look at hard wood hardness ratings, walnut is going to
scuff and dent almost immediately and IMHO mahogany will too. I would
suggest nothing softer than oak.

Oaks ar approximately 30% harder than walnut, and in some instances 50%
harder than some mahoganies

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RogerT wrote:

I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine
stains everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors.

snip
------------------------------------------------
As others have suggested, time for the pros.

They will sand and refinish with 3-4 coats of poly and all will be
well with the world.

Lew




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Default New hardwood floor questions

On Friday, September 9, 2011 4:14:40 PM UTC-7, RogerT wrote:

Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine stains
everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were rugs on top of
the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went through the rugs to the
hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle way of getting rid of lots of cat
urine stains and smell


Go to a pet-supplies store and inquire about enzyme cleaners; Nature's Miracle
is one brand, there are several others. The odor and stain will be the
easy part of the job, just spritz, wait, mop, repeat..
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Default New hardwood floor questions

Baking Soda is usually the main ingredient.

-----------

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
Go to a pet-supplies store and inquire about enzyme cleaners; Nature's
Miracle
is one brand, there are several others. The odor and stain will be the
easy part of the job, just spritz, wait, mop, repeat..

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