I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

"Justin Time" wrote in
:

I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the
wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the
project I'm completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a
sliding block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a
double end connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a
fine slit down the center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the
bearing into place. I can only imagine the slit was made, or can be
made with a bandsaw. Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need
to make that slit in order to tighten down the bearing on my project.
Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig saw, etc. will have a blade wider
than needed thus, I'm asking for suggestion how I can get that small
slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg




Handsaw. Almost any one will do, some will do finer kerfs than others.

You can also cut the block in half, remove the desired amount from the
side(s) and glue it back together.

Could you simply drill a hole the exact size of the bearing and press it
in with a clamp? (It may not work with all bearings.)

Puckdropper

"Justin Time" wrote in message
...
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project
I'm completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a
sliding block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double
end connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down
the center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place.
I can only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in
order to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw,
RAS, jig saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking
for suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg
Do you have a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade.????

My suggestion would be to use a jigsaw, and get for it a hollow-ground blade
with zero tooth set - basically a Japanese pull saw in a jigsaw blade.

Or cut it by hand with a fine-tooth Japanese pull saw. You might get a
straighter cut that way than a jigsaw would give you - the jigsaw blade
might tend to wander a bit if the stock you're cutting is thick, unless you
take it very slow.

Tom


"Justin Time" wrote in message
...

I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg



Coping saw or hack saw.

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

Obviously you need one of these:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1270

No, really.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Justin Time" wrote in
:

I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made
for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll
see the project I'm completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the
motor, is a sliding block which holds a bearing and small
shaft to complete a double end connection for a bobbin. On
that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the center and a
sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I
can only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a
bandsaw. Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need
to make that slit in order to tighten down the bearing on
my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig saw, etc. will
have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg



You don't tell us what tools you have to work with so
everything is a shot in the dark...

If you have a table saw you could cut the block 1/2 way thru
with a 1/8" kerf blade, then turn it over and cut the other
half with a 3/32" kerf blade. That would leave a 1/64" step on
the both faces. Glue it back together and drill the hole for
the bearing.

Or you could find a someone local with a bandsaw...

Larry

"Justin Time" wrote:

I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the
wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the
project I'm completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a
sliding block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a
double end connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a
fine slit down the center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the
bearing into place. I can only imagine the slit was made, or can be
made with a bandsaw. Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I
need to make that slit in order to tighten down the bearing on my
project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig saw, etc. will have a
blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for suggestion how I can
get that small slit without a bandsaw.
---------------------------------------------
It's hand saw time.

A Japanese pull saw as T Dacon has suggested the saw used with a miter
box which has a back stiffener.

(Forgot the correct name of the saw).

Lew

On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:45:45 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

Obviously you need one of these:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1270

No, really.

Or a $4 coping saw, which he could probably borrow if he doesn't
already have one.

--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...

Handsaw. Almost any one will do, some will do finer kerfs than others.

You can also cut the block in half, remove the desired amount from the
side(s) and glue it back together.

Could you simply drill a hole the exact size of the bearing and press it
in with a clamp? (It may not work with all bearings.)

Puckdropper

I was originally planning to permanently press or glue the bearing in place,
but I decided not to in case it needs to be removed/replaced.

Thanks

"WW" wrote in message
. ..

Do you have a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade.????


I believe I do at work. I'll know today when I arrive.

Thanks

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
.. .
My suggestion would be to use a jigsaw, and get for it a hollow-ground
blade with zero tooth set - basically a Japanese pull saw in a jigsaw
blade.

Or cut it by hand with a fine-tooth Japanese pull saw. You might get a
straighter cut that way than a jigsaw would give you - the jigsaw blade
might tend to wander a bit if the stock you're cutting is thick, unless
you take it very slow.

Tom

I was thinking about something along the same line with my very fine tooth
pull saw which is made for my reciprocating saw. My concern was keeping it
straight since it's extremely flexible as it's a double sided saw. I might
give it a whirl.

Thanks

Thank you all for the suggestions. The obvious answer is a handsaw such as a
coping or hacksaw, unless I know someone with a bandsaw (which I don't). I
don't own either handsaws, but I have a hacksaw at work. Though, since both
saws are cheap, I'll pick them up this afternoon for future projects.

Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place.

Hey guys, it's too early in the morning to read about sex bolts and
slits. Haven't even finished my second cup of coffee. (grin)


--
Gerald Ross

We give nothing as willingly as our advice.

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project
I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a
sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down
the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place.

Hey guys, it's too early in the morning to read about sex bolts and slits.
Haven't even finished my second cup of coffee. (grin)

Providing the little woman doesn't mention anything about a small shaft,
everything else is good.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 8/8/2011 4:35 AM, Justin Time wrote:
"Puckdropper"puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...

Handsaw. Almost any one will do, some will do finer kerfs than others.

You can also cut the block in half, remove the desired amount from the
side(s) and glue it back together.

Could you simply drill a hole the exact size of the bearing and press it
in with a clamp? (It may not work with all bearings.)

Puckdropper

I was originally planning to permanently press or glue the bearing in
place,
but I decided not to in case it needs to be removed/replaced.

Thanks



Now that you have mentioned the desire to replace the bearing and it not
be a permanent placement, consider using a screw/bolt that tightens into
the side of the bearing rather than squeezing the wood up against the
bearing.


Uggghh! Damn good idea. Now I don't know what to do.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 05:46:18 -0400, "Justin Time" wrote:

Thank you all for the suggestions. The obvious answer is a handsaw such as
a
coping or hacksaw, unless I know someone with a bandsaw (which I don't). I
don't own either handsaws, but I have a hacksaw at work. Though, since
both
saws are cheap, I'll pick them up this afternoon for future projects.

If you have an old hacksaw blade, flatten it with a hammer to take the
set out of it for a much thinner kerf.

I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but I would use my Ryoba
saw. It's extremely slim (0.025"?) and built for this kind of task,
with both rip and crosscut teeth. I recently bought an Azebiki, too,
which would work as well. They're Japanese pull saws. Once you use
one, you'll find that you will absolutely, positively -need- one.

http://goo.gl/ag0dE Ryoba for softwoods

http://goo.gl/Pgqrp Ryoba for hardwoods

http://goo.gl/UEob0 Azebiki

And yet another alternative is a multifunction tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscilla...ool-68303.html

What would I do without this group. I actually have the multifunction tool
and never gave it a second thought and I've used it for many things. Though,
those others saws sure would look good in the collection.

Thanks

On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 05:46:18 -0400, "Justin Time" wrote:

Thank you all for the suggestions. The obvious answer is a handsaw such as a
coping or hacksaw, unless I know someone with a bandsaw (which I don't). I
don't own either handsaws, but I have a hacksaw at work. Though, since both
saws are cheap, I'll pick them up this afternoon for future projects.

If you have an old hacksaw blade, flatten it with a hammer to take the
set out of it for a much thinner kerf.

I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but I would use my Ryoba
saw. It's extremely slim (0.025"?) and built for this kind of task,
with both rip and crosscut teeth. I recently bought an Azebiki, too,
which would work as well. They're Japanese pull saws. Once you use
one, you'll find that you will absolutely, positively -need- one.

http://goo.gl/ag0dE Ryoba for softwoods

http://goo.gl/Pgqrp Ryoba for hardwoods

http://goo.gl/UEob0 Azebiki

And yet another alternative is a multifunction tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscilla...ool-68303.html

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 06:04:08 -0400, Gerald Ross
wrote:

Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place.

Hey guys, it's too early in the morning to read about sex bolts and
slits. Haven't even finished my second cup of coffee. (grin)

Condolences, sir. Yer gettin' old, Ger, if you haven't thought about
sex at least once by the time your feet hit the floor. domg

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

On 8/8/2011 12:51 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:45:45 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

Obviously you need one of these:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1270

No, really.

Or a $4 coping saw, which he could probably borrow if he doesn't
already have one.

shaking my head

The man has a perfectly good excuse to buy a new tool (my suggestion is to get
one of the best money can buy; why scrimp?) and you think he should BLOW that
opportunity? Come on; play along here.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...
"Leon" wrote:

Now that you have mentioned the desire to replace the bearing and it not
be a permanent placement, consider using a screw/bolt that tightens into
the side of the bearing rather than squeezing the wood up against the
bearing.

----------------------------------
Having spent time as a ball bearing application engineer, I offer the
following observation:

The outer race of a ball bearing doesn't like point loading that will
develop using a bolt to secure it.

The wood clamping the bearing in place is the preferred method.

Lew

The task is complete and I did the wood clamping method. I used my fine
double sided pullback saw which came with my reciprocating saw. The result
turned out very well.

Thank you

On 8/8/2011 4:35 AM, Justin Time wrote:
"Puckdropper"puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...

Handsaw. Almost any one will do, some will do finer kerfs than others.

You can also cut the block in half, remove the desired amount from the
side(s) and glue it back together.

Could you simply drill a hole the exact size of the bearing and press it
in with a clamp? (It may not work with all bearings.)

Puckdropper

I was originally planning to permanently press or glue the bearing in place,
but I decided not to in case it needs to be removed/replaced.

Thanks



Now that you have mentioned the desire to replace the bearing and it not
be a permanent placement, consider using a screw/bolt that tightens into
the side of the bearing rather than squeezing the wood up against the
bearing.

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 07:04:19 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/8/2011 12:51 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:45:45 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

Obviously you need one of these:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1270

No, really.

Or a $4 coping saw, which he could probably borrow if he doesn't
already have one.

shaking my head

The man has a perfectly good excuse to buy a new tool (my suggestion is to get
one of the best money can buy; why scrimp?) and you think he should BLOW that
opportunity? Come on; play along here.

Sorry, but I can't condone Lie Nielsen or Festool prices, no matter
how good they might be. I'd rather purchase ten Satanleys and/or a
couple of Makitas, respectively. I'm che^H^H^Hvalue-oriented and could
not care less what specific brand a tool is, for the most part.

I did, however, recover from my sin of omission (no tool purchase
suggestion) with the Japan Woodworker links in the next post. I
strongly feel that a Ryoba pull saw would serve him better than a way
expensive, pretty rip handsaw. What's your take now?

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

"Leon" wrote:

Now that you have mentioned the desire to replace the bearing and it
not be a permanent placement, consider using a screw/bolt that
tightens into the side of the bearing rather than squeezing the wood
up against the bearing.

----------------------------------
Having spent time as a ball bearing application engineer, I offer the
following observation:

The outer race of a ball bearing doesn't like point loading that will
develop using a bolt to secure it.

The wood clamping the bearing in place is the preferred method.

Lew

On 8/8/2011 5:49 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

Now that you have mentioned the desire to replace the bearing and it
not be a permanent placement, consider using a screw/bolt that
tightens into the side of the bearing rather than squeezing the wood
up against the bearing.

----------------------------------
Having spent time as a ball bearing application engineer, I offer the
following observation:

The outer race of a ball bearing doesn't like point loading that will
develop using a bolt to secure it.

The wood clamping the bearing in place is the preferred method.

Lew


I would tend to agree but my wife is a quilter, has a similar set up and
the motor just does not spin that fast. The bearing outer race would
need only the slightest of pressure to keep it from spinning. you could
probably wrap paper around it and the fit would be tight enough.

On 8/8/2011 8:07 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 07:04:19 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/8/2011 12:51 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:45:45 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

Obviously you need one of these:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1270

No, really.

Or a $4 coping saw, which he could probably borrow if he doesn't
already have one.

shaking my head

The man has a perfectly good excuse to buy a new tool (my suggestion is to get
one of the best money can buy; why scrimp?) and you think he should BLOW that
opportunity? Come on; play along here.

Sorry, but I can't condone Lie Nielsen or Festool prices, no matter
how good they might be. I'd rather purchase ten Satanleys and/or a
couple of Makitas, respectively. I'm che^H^H^Hvalue-oriented and could
not care less what specific brand a tool is, for the most part.

I did, however, recover from my sin of omission (no tool purchase
suggestion) with the Japan Woodworker links in the next post. I
strongly feel that a Ryoba pull saw would serve him better than a way
expensive, pretty rip handsaw. What's your take now?

I strongly feel that you need to try the Lie Nielsen before drawing that
conclusion. I've owned half a dozen pull saws of various brands and countries
of origin, and none have had anywhere near the control and accuracy as the Lie
Nielsen. And it's not THAT expensive. I've used, grumbled at, and tossed
aside enough pull saws to more than pay for the Lie Nielsen, and it's still in
perfect condition. Sometimes you DO get what you pay for...

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 06:11:12 -0400, "Justin Time" wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 05:46:18 -0400, "Justin Time" wrote:

Thank you all for the suggestions. The obvious answer is a handsaw such as
a
coping or hacksaw, unless I know someone with a bandsaw (which I don't). I
don't own either handsaws, but I have a hacksaw at work. Though, since
both
saws are cheap, I'll pick them up this afternoon for future projects.

If you have an old hacksaw blade, flatten it with a hammer to take the
set out of it for a much thinner kerf.

I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but I would use my Ryoba
saw. It's extremely slim (0.025"?) and built for this kind of task,
with both rip and crosscut teeth. I recently bought an Azebiki, too,
which would work as well. They're Japanese pull saws. Once you use
one, you'll find that you will absolutely, positively -need- one.

http://goo.gl/ag0dE Ryoba for softwoods

http://goo.gl/Pgqrp Ryoba for hardwoods

http://goo.gl/UEob0 Azebiki

And yet another alternative is a multifunction tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscilla...ool-68303.html

What would I do without this group. I actually have the multifunction tool
and never gave it a second thought and I've used it for many things. Though,
those others saws sure would look good in the collection.

They're on coupon sale for $20 right now, if anyone still hasn't
bought one. See the otherwise worthless Sunday "USA Weekend"
'magazine'.

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 20:37:23 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/8/2011 8:07 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 07:04:19 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/8/2011 12:51 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:45:45 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/7/2011 8:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg

Obviously you need one of these:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1270

No, really.

Or a $4 coping saw, which he could probably borrow if he doesn't
already have one.

shaking my head

The man has a perfectly good excuse to buy a new tool (my suggestion is to get
one of the best money can buy; why scrimp?) and you think he should BLOW that
opportunity? Come on; play along here.

Sorry, but I can't condone Lie Nielsen or Festool prices, no matter
how good they might be. I'd rather purchase ten Satanleys and/or a
couple of Makitas, respectively. I'm che^H^H^Hvalue-oriented and could
not care less what specific brand a tool is, for the most part.

I did, however, recover from my sin of omission (no tool purchase
suggestion) with the Japan Woodworker links in the next post. I
strongly feel that a Ryoba pull saw would serve him better than a way
expensive, pretty rip handsaw. What's your take now?

I strongly feel that you need to try the Lie Nielsen before drawing that
conclusion.

I helped Frank Klausz at an American Woodworking show once and got to
feel a nice Independence saw, so I have tried one. (Didn't LN buy
them?)

Whoa! I didn't know that Paddy O'Leach started that co! He's one of
us! http://goo.gl/t5xoz


I've owned half a dozen pull saws of various brands and countries
of origin, and none have had anywhere near the control and accuracy as the Lie
Nielsen. And it's not THAT expensive. I've used, grumbled at, and tossed
aside enough pull saws to more than pay for the Lie Nielsen, and it's still in
perfect condition. Sometimes you DO get what you pay for...

I'm glad you like it. I fell head over heels in love with the concept
and implementation after my first time cutting with a Japanese pull
saw. It's not perfect and it can't be used for everything, but I
reach for it far more often than I do for a regular hand saw, and my
Lee Valley dovie saw (Franch import) is unused now. I'm more precise
with one that with a western saw, which is my bottom line.

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

On 8/7/2011 6:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg


You have a backsaw? If not, time to get one,

In article ,
says...

On 8/7/2011 6:51 PM, Justin Time wrote:
I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm
completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding
block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end
connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the
center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can
only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order
to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig
saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for
suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you


http://www.leclerclooms.com/08winderB.jpg


You have a backsaw? If not, time to get one,

One of these would work very nicely:

http://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2410-Fine-Cut-19-Point-
Finish/dp/B00004TBQ2/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_3

Might be too thin a cut though.

On the other hand, if that's too thick, a jeweler's saw should do.

http://www.micromark.com/Jewelers-Saw,6747.html